2X2KOB

That idiot mechanic needs to be slapped around, or at least spoken to in a derisive and condescending manner. He probably would have sold you a new engine.

What are the respective functions of the duty B and duty C solenoids? Are they internal or external to the automatic transmission? Is there a duty A solenoid?

Thanks for the info - I hope the repairs go well!

The clutchpack is [functionally] the center diff, right? Is yours an auto or manual?

What's a JDM?

I had the same problem on the 2000 OBW at 148k. A new transmission fixed it right up! It was a factory rebuild installed by an independent shop, and it was not cheap. I would have liked to have gotten a junkyard trans for cheaper and tried that route, but I was in a situation where I could not do the work.

The last timing belt failure I saw wasn't a broken belt, it was that the teeth stripped off the belt where it passes the crank sprocket. Sounds like yours is pretty far gone, but not broken. Try turning the engine over while observing the belt and cams and see if it all spins, or just the crank turns. You can turn the engine with the starter or a wrench in the front at the crank pulley or if it's a manual trans, put it in gear and shove it a little bit. There are other things that should be done when changing a timing belt - do a search for older threads, it's been discussed many times.

Doesn't the factory intake location above the radiator do a cold enough job? Seems like it would be difficult to improve on that.

You should dump in another container of the stuff with every coolant change. Not so much for the warranty but to keep the HG from leaking. Hopefully it does some good for that anyway. Price comparison point: It's less than two bucks at the dealer on Manchester in St. Louis...

The knock sensor is held on with one bolt, and it has one wire. It would be a shame to pay someone $50 to change it. Unless, of course, you were paying ME.

I have had that happen ONE time on the 00 OBW. I started it up, then for some reason shut it off after about two seconds Right after that it was hard to start, took excessive cranking, backfired smoke out through the intake and acted pretty ugly. Got it going and let it run about five minutes, after that it was all right. I got no answers as to why, just wanted to pass on a similar experience. Maybe the computer was confused - who knows?

We had very similar damage on the 2000 OBW from a rear-ender on the highway - insurance payout was about $2800, dealer parts were about $700, a day or two to fix it, good to go. No paint work involved, lucky. It's not too difficult to take it apart. If you can save the bumper cover and you haven't got sheetmetal damage, it should be a pretty straightforward disassembly/reassembly exercise. The dealer's catalog has good pictures to identify what you need. There's lots of weird fasteners though.

Thanks very much - great pics!

What is the oil plate separator, and what does it do?

When I did it, it was about 700 files, 75 folders, 60 megs. So that's what, 35 hours now? YUCK. The only way that would work is if you were doing it at work, on overtime.

I did that a couple years ago and it worked fine. I don't know if they have changed the game rules since then or not. The PDFs are good, but the problem is in the indexing. Although you can always do a computer search to find what you are looking for. Be prepared to invest a few hours in file naming and creating the directory structure. I'll see if I can send you a sample...

Sorry if this is redundant, but don't you have to make sure that the front diff final drive ratio (part of the trans) matches the rear diff final drive ratio exactly? I'm assuming you change the front diff as part of the trans.

I see. So it looks like it was a contamination problem - that makes sense. Thanks!

I have heard people say that the tensioner should be changed with every *other* timing belt change unless it's bad. That's my plan anyway.

Well, it's certainly worth a shot to try and fix it from outside. I think I'd run it low on gas, then clean the seam real good down to bare metal, then rough it up with some 60 grit paper, then clean it with a good solvent like brake cleaner or acetone or MEK or something, then put on a layer or two of JB-weld, maybe with some fiberglass cloth. I'd make a big patch, at least an inch past the seam. Seems like this should work, for awhile anyway.

Thanks for the followup - it's always good to see these things get resolved. So it was two bad injectors? Any way to test them?

Stupid question time: When you pull the engine, does the transmission stay in the car? How about the torque convertor - does it stay on the trans, or the engine when the two are split? (It's been a long time since I've done anything like this and never on a Subaru) /kthanks

Are you going to send the heads out to a machine shop for minimal shaving, crack checking, and valve job? This might add a couple hundred bucks, just guessing.

I'd do the water pump, might save you going back in there next year. And of course the crank front seal, and check all the spinning bits on the front of the engine for bearing problems. Can't you get a gasket set for the head job only? Or do you have to buy a full engine overhaul set?

That's a much better idea - less wear & tear on the starter, avoids confusing the fuel injection system, etc.