Steven Romero

Experts, I don't have my owner's manual in front of me, and I wanted to place an online order enough ATF fluid to replace ALL of the ATF in my transmission following a flush. Does anyone have capacity info handy? Also has anyone had any luck with Redline D4 ATF? Thanks. ./steve 1986 GL-10 Turbo Wagon, 3AT, FWD

You can test the coil by removing the wire that goes from it to the distributor cap, and then either using a remote starter or having a friend turn on the ignition while you hold the distributor side of the wire coming out of the coil against the grounded chassis, or an insulated metal tool. You can also pull one of the plugs, and leave it attached to the wire - if you see a blue spark in either instance then you are getting a spark to the engine, and you will then need to start looking at other issues. I agree with Subarian though - this could be a timing belt issue - in either case I think we are in agreement that this sounds like a problem with your ignition system...

Have you tested the coil?

ok this is annoying. why are my paragraph breaks not showing up in my posts? aaarggh!

Ok smarty - I actually have started doing that! Idling in neutral is around 950 RPM closed loop (in spec from what I read). ./steve

1986 GL-10 Turbo Wagon, FWD, 3AT. Ok I finally got the wagon back on the road after a suspension rebuild and ignition tune-up. The car runs fine except for valve train noise that I plan to tackle with some SeaFoam over the weekend. The only annoying issue now is that the cars idles a little low (around 750 RPM on the digital dash) when I'm sitting at a stop light in with the 3AT in the drive position. I'd like to get that fixed. Any ideas? Thanks. ./steve

Interesting story here, but there is a moral to it all... "If you want something done right do it yourself!" True it may cost you some extra time and effort to learn how your car works, but you'll be better off for it in the long run, and you won't have to jerk around with a bunch of clowns who claim to be "professional", and charge you outrageous amounts of money just because they have "ASE" stamped on their building. Don't get me wrong mechanics do have their place, but they are getting to be increasingly expensive, and a good one as we all know is very hard to find. I'm sorry to here about your troubles. I hope you were able to diagnose and fix your problem without too much more headache. ./steve

I would be afraid to put that mess in my engine. You just have to wonder what else it is sealing along with the leaks. Why don't you just have a shop do a leak-down test to find out specifically what the problem is, and then go from there... If the heads are cracked you can make a judgement call as heads are probably not cheap or easy to find, and then there's the labor. If it's just the gaskets, then the procedure to replace them seems straightforward - I haven't done it, but it can't be that hard. Besides, just think about how much you would learn... Does the oil look like it has water in it?

That's a gem. Wow.

Nice score, but I hate rust, and am glad I live in Texas. ./steve

Ok well I fixed this finally. It seems that the rotor I ordered is a little different than the old one even though the part was listed for an '86 GL-10. The old rotor has a metal ring around the inside of the shaft hole. The bottom part of this ring rests on top of the reluctor, so there must be some current between the 2 that is used by the ignition system in some way (I still haven't found out how...anyone here know?). The new rotor was all plastic except for the metal tip on top that interfaces with the distributor cap (don't know what that's called). Anyway, I'm just glad this was an easy fix. Funny thing is while I was putting the distributor cap back on I noticed the driver's side rear tire was flat...it never ends. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. ./steve

500 rpm sounds a little low. You may need to adjust (advance) your ignition timing a bit.

Hey all. Is anyone on this list from Houston (and still living here?) ./steve

Ok I checked the ignition wires, and they are all in order on the plugs and the distributor. I'm thinking about putting the old distributor cap and rotor back on to see if that is the problem. I haven't re-gapped the plugs, but I did gap them before they went on to .040" - in spec right? As I said I changed the distributor cap and rotor. There was no screw to attach the rotor shaft to the distributor shaft. Is this normal? I had to remove the alternator to get at plug 2 - could this problem be a case of poor grounding? Is it possible that the old coil isn't playing nice with the new components? Help. Thanks. ./steve

Man I've got the same symptoms, but my tune-up wasn't as extensive as yours. I just replaced the ignition components: 1) rotor 2) disty cap 3) wires 4) plugs I gapped all the plugs right, and made double sure that the firing order was correct on the plugs and disty terminals. Now the thing is running like a sick lawnmower, with a huge flat spot, and lots of noise???? This has to be something with the ignition or vacuum I'm thinking. I hope I didn't fry something inside the distributor. ./steve

Since the EA82 3AT topic has been opened does anyone know what that little hose coming out of the top of the transmission case is for (underneath spare)?

Experts, I changed the requisite bits for an ignition tuneup on a 1986 GL-10 Turbo Wagon: - wires - d-cap - rotor - plugs I used a Daichi rotor and D-cap, and NGK plugs and wires (OEM Spec). Now the car is idling rough starting at 1700 rpm when I first turn the car over, then gradually dropping down to 900 rpm (which is in spec from what I read). It is misfiring quite a bit, and there is a flat-spot in acceleration. The car will maintain itself, and does not die, but it does idle rough, and there is a bit of engine noise when accelerating - it sounds like a lawnmower under the bonnet which makes me think the car isn't firing on all cylinders. The car ran smooth before all of this. A couple of the old ignition wires had tears in the outer shielding, and that is one of the reasons I did the job in the first place even though things were running ok. I'm thinking I either: 1) mis-matched the plug wires to the wrong cylinder 2) knocked lose a vacuum hose 3) dumb-mified the ECU after having the battery pulled for so long (could this cause a problem)? I did remove a big hose from the throttle body which connected to the block on the drivers side. I put it back though. It didn't have clamps, so I wonder if maybe the gunk around the inside edges was acting like a seal to keep vacuum pressure inside. All of the ignition wires wiggle a little as if the leads are not snug against the plug terminal, but they are all the way "down" on the plug. Is the wiggling normal? Don't know. Any ideas? Thanks ./steve

Can anyone recommend a good online parts warehouse for older subarus? I've been ordering from thepartsbin, but they've mixed up an order of mine and they aren't making good on it, so now I've got to find another source. Thanks. ./steve

While your at it can you post the FSM on your website too?

Thanks for the tips Mark! ./steve

Experts, I need some clarification on the procedure for changing the timing belts. My repair manual does not specify that the pistons should be at TDC on piston 1 before replacing the belts. It just says line up the 3 valve timing marks on the flywheel with the pointer and the middle mark lined up. A ScoobyMods post also mentions nothing about TDC when replacing belts. Do I need to locate TDC before changing the belts? I just want to make sure before attempting this. I guess you can tell it will be my first time. I'm also thinking about changing the tensioners and the idler pulley at the same time. Thanks. ./steve

Ok thanks for the info. I just want to make sure I have everything I need before I start pulling things apart. I will probably shy away from the lowering XT parts as my driveway is a little tricky at times. ./steve

I can't tell yet Jim. I haven't had time to start pulling things apart. I basically crawled under the engine, ran a finger across the block, and put some of the leaky stuff on my tongue. It was antifreeze. It looks like there may be more than one leak. As I mentioned, there is fluid coming out of a little hose attached to a nipple on the intake manifold. The leak there is caused by rust on the nipple itself which I guess caused the hose to break down. I'm not sure where the other one is coming from. You say the turbo? How can I check this? Thanks. ./steve

I'm sure I don't. I crawled under there the other day, and observed no air ride components, and also checked my dashboard controls and found no height adjustment at the specified location in the owner's manual. Thanks for the help. ./steve

OK now that I know what parts to look for I'm trying to put together an order for a strut/shock replacement as they are all shot on my 1986 2WD wagon. So far I have the following list: Front Strut Assembly GR-2 - left and right Subaru 1986 KYB (OEM) Leone/LoyaleTurbo2WD KYB (OEM) Rear Shock Absorber GR-2 - left and right Subaru 1986 KYB (OEM) Leone/LoyaleTurbo2WD KYB (OEM) Shock Bellows - front Subaru 1986 KYB (OEM) Leone/LoyaleTurbo2WD KYB (OEM) Strut Bellows - rear Subaru 1986 KYB (OEM) Leone/LoyaleTurbo2WD KYB (OEM) Strut Mount - left and right Subaru 1986 KYB (OEM) Leone/LoyaleTurbo2WD KYB (OEM) Am I missing anything? There are balljoints listed, but it doesn't say whether or not I can use them on the wagon. I appreciate your patience. I just don't want to get halfway into the repair and find out that I'm missing something. Thanks. ./steve