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84gl

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Posts posted by 84gl

  1. Hey Jordan I know what you mean about moving out west and if you can I would say go for it there has to be more jobs out there an they are here and by what I've seen they pay more to I just wish I could move too But, with the farm and all and I would hate to even think about moving all my roos. This area has almost no old School Subaru people at all just rednecks and their V8s that said I only know of four within 250 miles you me Nubaru and Subaruloverbrad

  2. Thanks GD I think why the last clutch started slipping is be cause they didn't turn down the flywheel there is no way the flywheel was worn .070 in 17k they just didn't turn the thing down and they know it I think thats why they are offering me half off on the new pressure plate and disk at East TN Clutch and Brake I brought the flywheel to them this morning I measured it in front of them and the step was .891 and they measured it trying to prove me wrong they looked the specs for the XT6 flywheel up in there book .815 and they were wrong so they said they would turn the flywheel for free to spec and I would get half off on the clutch set with a Kevlar disk and the pressure plate will be oem for the XT6

     

     

    The last clutch setup was a after market LUX for a XT6 or so they said

  3. I am running it on my spfi 82 brat with a built ea81 and just changing over to megasquirt from the stock setup I was able to gain 10hp on the dyno with the stock ecm my brat was dynoed at 102hp at the front wheels with the megasquirt it was 112hp at a lower rpm and now the thing finally idies right which it would not do with the stock setup. But I think I have reached the max output for the n/a ea81 running stockish US big valve heads now if you could get a set of dual port or reversed valve heads the sky is the limit

  4. Use MegaSquirt then I should fix all of your wiring problems and you can get more power out of the engine than with the stock setup you probably could get the some power as the EJ out of it with some work no one has really tried to find the limits of the ea81t yet and yes they do have problems but if this thing s just going to be a toy why not. Besides the ea81 has no tbelts to worry about and is a very simple engine to work on. But the carb turbo setup is very problematic you have to build a box around your carb and it has to be air tight the jetting has to be just right too.

  5. Aren't pistons from a turbo always lower compression than others?

     

    Yes they are dished pistons.

     

    This is just my opinion but most of the time turbo carb setups are more trouble than there worth and you have and ea81t those are very rare engines these days If had a good rust free ea81t body with a running ea81t I would fix the wiring And put It away somewhere in a few more years they will be well worth what ever it takes to fix them now.

     

    I have two ea81ts running compete cars a Brat and a Wagon they both are rusty but I have still put them up in barns there were only around 2500 turbo ea81s imported to the US in 83-84 and that was mostly wagons and hardtops the brats were the rarest with only around 650 made

  6. if they were supposed to turn it down and they didnt i would suspect that the clutch wouldnt disengage vs hold properly.

     

    Another question about those spec clutches. They seem to have 2 clutches for each stage, as much as I hate the "stage" word, so which one is for what.

     

     

    I don't which one is for what and i also hate the word stage its to ricey. by the way how do you know what stage your car would be in anyway its only for those Honda Kids anyway and they don't even work on their own car most of the time a shop does it and mommy and daddy pick up the tab.

  7. No there are on known makers of after market flywheels and at least two companies make after market clutches But the one I bought from the performance clutch and brake shop in my area wasn't that great I am begaining to think that they just sold me a xt6 Pressure plate and and kevlar disk which they made in house I have already pulled the engine ad the disk looks fine other than same high speed glazing from the slippage I have measured the flywheel and its depth was .892 they were suppose to turn it down to the xt6 spec which the book says is .815 So you all think this is the problem as I do or will a xt6 pressure plate work with a normal ea82 flywheel?

  8. The clutch I have is suppose to be a performance clutch already it has a 100 pounds more clamping force than stock or so the clutch builder Tested the pressure plates to be sure of the poundage and made me a Kevlar friction disk showed me Differences in the clamping force before I bought them but they don't warranty Proformance clutches when they are a custom Build. The company that made the setup are a clutch and brake rebuilder in Johnson City TN that makes clutches for a NASCAR builder Morgan McCullure in Abington VA And Auto Zone. They said when I called them Today that if I can come up with A parts list for a clutch kit that will hold the horsepower they will sell it to me for half off And test the clutch for free thats alot better deal than I got the last time which was around $200 for the clutch setup thats in there now but they also said that if I can't find a stronger setup they would rebuild the friction disk I have and turn the flywheel for $80 And thats for another Kevlar Disk

     

     

    But I really think its the Pressure plate not the friction disk like the are saying I think I need More Clamping force And they said I was already running a XT6 pressure plate COULD BE THAT THEY DIDN'T TURN THE FLYWHEEL TO XT6 SPEC THE LAST TIME ITS ONLY BEEN 17K SINCE THIS CLUTCH WAS INSTALLED

  9. My Brat with the Built EA81 has just gone though another Clutch with a Kevlar friction disk I think I'm going to need a stronger pressure plate or something the LUX brand one I have is for a RX Turbo and is suppose to be heavy duty and is alot stiffer than the stock ones but It still alittle slipped when it was new under full thottle in low gears (1st & 2sd) But now is pretty much shot its starting to slip in higher gears I just want to know how other people have fixed this problem are the XT6 pressure plates stronger than the 300 pound one I am running and what clutch set up works for the EJ swaps maybe I can use that setup?

  10. Brats Are and Low Geared off road beast most of the time they ride rough and theres not much you can do about it. But you can make it handle better with RX springs on new struts and rebuilting the front end putting pug wheels on it increases the track 1 in which helps a lot But its still a 4wd truck they don't ride like a newer car does and never will

     

     

    But adding the RX springs to the front struts will make it set level by raising the front end up alittle

  11. I was plagued by similar "lift and shift" problems during takoffs in my EJ18'd 84 wagon.

     

    I also had torsion bars that kept saggin, so i'd reclock another notch, only to have them sag more next time I went Wheelin.

     

    So I went ahead and added EA82 coilovers to the rear. Stood the rump roast in the air like a cat in heat. De-clocked the torsions a notch. Okay, better, stiff but not ungodly.

     

    Well the added side benefit I found is that the front end stays planted now on takeoffs. The stiff rear end keeps the front from being able to lift and keeps more weight on the front tires to limit spin.

     

    Turns out there was a reason for Fuji to make them so stinkbug from the factory.......who'd a thunk it?

     

     

    Thanks Gloyale I still haven't swaped in the ea82 struts but Its good to know it will work by the way what struts did you use RX,4wd,2wd,XT,85-86 adjustable 4wd honada springs?

  12. My defroster works in all my ea81s there is air flap that the wire will sometimes come off of you might want to check this is on the pass. side near the blower. now as for the exhaust yes the 2 in pipe will help but your wagon being an 81 it could be noncatalsust here in the southeast most subarus 1982 and older didn't have catalytic converters and said under the hood that they met the standard for light trucks (4wd wagons and brats anyway) so if you can find the sticker off of one of these cars put it on yours and that should fool most cops anyway. Oh dual exhaust would be better but put a cross over as close to the oil pan or heads as possible. soobs don't like true dual exhaust much

  13. I ordered it from New Zeland (bought it off Ebay NZ). 5 years ago Shadow lock is the brand name the said It was a closeout item then its for a ea82 4wd rx turbo Sedan. But I have heard bad things about them here on the board and a friend of mine Will or WJM use to run one in his rx that he ran solo2 with he also blow 2 or 3 trannys up with them in it due to the lsd coming apart and he was also running 200-225 hp with an ea82t

  14. Sorry Again about the caps lock. Yes I did raise the rear end by cranking up the tourshin bar but that only helped a little and increased the steering rake I've been trying to figure this out for a while now knowing that your frankin motor makes a crap ton more power than my built ea81 your take off handling must be alot worst mine still walks around alittle on take off but its not to bad now I've changed the struts,ball joints,tie rods,radius rods and all the bushings I could find. What tires and wheels are you running stock? I'm running 14in pugs with cooper cobra tires in 195/65/14 for now. but on a wet road I still have to use 4wd to keep it from spinning you do have one advantage over mine to (other than power) an ej weights 75-80 pounds more than mine.

     

    Since you said your trans is on is way out way not put a shadow locker in the next one thats what I'm running in my 5spd D/R in my brat it was the best thing I've done for it so far for traction anyway.

     

    Also I've been thinking about this for awhile making anther brace for the engine and trans and mounting it to the rear of the trans. I think it might fix the lifting up or raising of the engine and trans daring take off I think that would keep it from bending the antipitch bar all the time and could also keep the front end down alittle more too

  15. That's good to know about the MS. I'm sure I'll be sending you some questions about your setup.

     

    I don't consider my stock Phase I EJ22 heads to be limiting me at all. I don't care about peak HP with this car. I care about area under the curve. If my heads fall on their face at 5500RPM, then when I shift, I'll be back on power. If I need to stay in that gear a little longer on a straightaway, I have until 6200RPM before I should shift.

     

    All assuming I don't wrap this thing around a tree or grenade the transmission without a backup.

     

    Jacob

     

    I'm RUNNING AN EA81 WITH SPFI PISTONS PORTED BIG VALVE HEADS WITH OVER SIZED VALVES 2.02-1.94 A DELTA 240 CAM PORTED SPFI INTAKE AND AND A BORED OUT SPFI THROTTLE BODY WITH A NISSAN TRUCK VG30 INJECTOR I'M JUST SAYING I HAVE THE SAME TRACTION PROBLEMS HEADS ARE WHATS HOLDING BE BACK IN THE POWER DEPT. THEY DON'T FLOW GOOD ENIF TO MAKE ANYMORE POWER SO, I'VE BEEN HUNTING FOR TRACTION INSTEAD SO, I CAN PUT WHAT POWER I HAVE TO THE GROUND. I HAVE FOUND OUT THAT THE EA81T HAS SLIGHTLY BIGGER RADIUS RODS AND SWAY BAR THAT MAY HELP TOO

  16. EM is in the works. I just can't justify buying it until I have a better place to live.

     

    On the observation front, I've noticed that with no pitch stopper, the transmission and linkage moves back under acceleration. When this happens, the 4WD lever moves up a bit. It almost seems like enough to accidentally pop it into 4WD mode one day. STI mounts don't seem like enough to keep this thing put anymore:banana:

     

    Jacob

     

    I know I keep bending the antipitch bar that mounts to the top of the bell housing

     

    By the way I am already running megasquirt the only thing limiting me is the heads

  17. It's got to be more than 160. The stock EJ25 is 165 and with this high-compression setup it's definitely more than that. Conservative estimate I would put it around 180 at least - increase of compression from 9.5:1 to around 11:1 would account for at least 15 HP..... Maybe closer to 200 considering the header, cams, large exhaust, etc. With the torque ground cams it's hard to say what the HP is because the torque is so amazing that it's overpowering - you can't even really wrap the thing up much because it's just wheel-spin city.

     

    If we could figure out the idle hunting and tendancy to die after cruising it would be perfect. Something is screwball and I think the OBD-I EJ22 ECU is totally confused with this engine. Might be that it's requireing fueling outside the bounds of the idle maps.

     

    We may fix this with MegaSquirt. I know I want to - just depends on his funding level. :lol:

     

    GD

     

    I was saying at the ground or front wheels not the flywheel you lose 10 to 15% of you hp throw you drive train that being said I probably 125-135 hp at the flywheel

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