kimokalihi
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Posts posted by kimokalihi
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Thanks for the info. I wasn't really planning on fixing it right away, if at all. I was just curious to know what was causing it in case I decide to fix it in the future.
I don't drive that car at all. It's not insured and I plan to sell it but it's got tranny noise and I paid 800+150 for licensing so in order to get what I paid(bought it to sell it for more, now I just want my money back)for it, I'll probably have to throw a new tranny in it. It's in very nice condition(the exterior/interior/engine is clean).
Right now my focus is intalling my brand new heater core from Lithia Subaru of Oregon City. I can't wait to drive my car again...and have defrost(winter is coming!).
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Are you sure you got all the air out of the system?
That happened to me the other day when I took my heater core out and put it back in. Turned out after a day of sitting and a couple times of running it with the radiator cap off and burping the system, all the air came out and that solved the high temp reading with no heat from the heater.
If you could seperate that block into a few paragraphs, it would make it much easier to read.
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Are you talking about making the engine quiter overall or quiter inside the cabin? If you want it quiter inside the car, you need to get your hands on a lot of sound deadening, I suggest RAAMmat. Very good stuff and not as expensive as dynamat.
http://raammat.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
You're gonna want to at least do the firewall and the floor and probably the tranny as well. I'm going to do my whole car eventually...I just talked to rick and he said 190 bucks should do the firewall and floor for the front seats. That's including a roll of RAAMmat and a roll of ensolite and a can of high quality adhesive. There will be some leftovers probably that you can put on your doors or whatever you please.
Now if you're trying to quiet the actual noise the engine is producing...I have no idea. Is your airbox bolted down all the way? LOL:D
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She was very nice. Sounds like excellent customer service! Can't wait to start driving my car again...
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I called up Lithia Subaru and they did not have it in stock but they are ordering it and it will be shipped on monday and she said it could take one day but it won't take more than 2. That's good.
First she told me it was $265! Then she said it wasn't in stock and to call this radiator place but I mentioned that I was from out of state and then I told her that a friend referred them to me with a price of $198 and she said she can do that for me and shipping would be about 10 bucks. Not bad!
1st subaru wanted 190 plus 20 bucks for shipping so it would have been the same amount but I think I trust the dealership more. Would 1st subaru be OEM factory parts or aftermarket? I'd rather have the factory part from subaru than an aftermarket one.
So I should have my heater core no later than wednesday! Thanks for the number! Can't believe the parts stores wanted 315-355 bucks!!!
I have green fog marks on my window in the center of the winshield where the vents come out right above the heater core. I'm pretty much my moms designated babysitter for the next couple weeks to pay this thing off. But it will be worth it when I'm warm and cozy in the snow up on the pass this winter! When I bought this subaru I found a pair of studded snow tires with about 90% tread on them in the back of my parents garage. We have a minivan and they were on that for one winter (actually probably only a month or two)and they happen to be the same exact size and the tires on the legacy! Would it be ok to run only two studded tires on my AWD? I know they're sensitive so maybe this is a bad idea? My tires are about 90% tread right now but they're just all weather tires. They'd make it though.
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Pretty much every time I go around a corner, slow down, speed up, go up hill or down hill the gas guage goes crazy. It only really levels out when you're at a steady speed on a constant angle.
What's gone wrong here?
If it matters, it's a 90 subaru legacy AWD wagon 5spd
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I'm going to have to agree that it's most likely the operator's fault. The people who are putting "K&N" filters(and I wish no one would call them that, it's just a brand name)are generally teenagers who read import tuner and see those dyno tests on them. I wouldn't doubt that K&N paid them to put those false tests in there.
These same people often don't know enough about cars to understand what they're doing. For example, I've seen quite a few people take their stock airbox out and just stick a cone filter on the intake and not even bother to hook their MAF back up. I questioned a kid on what this wire hanging off his intake was and he said it used to go to the intake but there was nowhere to hook it up after he put the new filter on and so he just let it dangle and he claims it runs just fine. HAHA! I'm not familiar with chevy's but I know that on my toyota pickup if the MAF is not plugged in the truck will start up once and die a few seconds later and then it won't even start after that!
I don't think you'll do any harm to your engine installing one of these filters, I just don't believe you'll gain anything from it. As long as you're doing it the right way, that is.
I guess the only plus side of it is that as long as you clean them correctly and install them correctly you'll save money in the long run from not having to replace the filter all the time. That's the only positive thing I can think of with those filters.
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This is a touchy subject and you'll never get everyone to agree on whether they're better or worse. I tend to believe that the stock filter is better and I won't bother putting a cone filter on a vehicle unless it was for a cold air intake. Then I guess there's a reason to put one on because you can't really use your stock filter unless you rigged a pipe to the other end of your airbox and ran it to a open air source.
I was in a very good autotech class(not in my highschool, much better than those ones)and both the instructors there were former technicians. One was a line tech and the other used to race stock cars I think. Well he raced all sorts of cars and knows a lot about them. They both basically said that K&N is bull$#%& and gave a lot of reasons that made a lot of sense, unfortunately I don't remember most of them, except one. If those filters made a hp increase, don't you think the auto manufacturers would put them on the cars to begin with? Now you're probably thinking, well that would cost too much, right? Maybe not. They wouldn't have to make the airboxes anymore! That would at least even it out with the benefit of a couple more hp! I think they would jump on that.
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Thanks, I saved there number so I can call them when I decide to get it.
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I will give them a call for sure! Thanks. I live in washington so it should be quicker.
I also just saw that heater core on 1stsubaruparts a few minutes ago while I was searching.
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OK, So I hate my life now.
This is one time that I hope that I am wrong.You must have been right.
I tested the heater core with about 10psi. Maybe a little more. It was full of water and didn't leak a drop. Then I put it back in the car and hooked up the heater controls and all that mess and ran the car and the engine got too warm so I shut it off. It had air pockets in it. I went through the process of getting all the air out and then let it sit for a day and then did it again today.
Everything seemed great, it was putting out nice warm air and the engine was staying at operating temp. So I turned the engine off and bolted the rest of the stuff up. I turned it back on when I was done and decided to turn the defrost on one last time just to make sure. Green mist came billowing out of the defrost vents and pretty much filled the car with a wet fog. Smelled just like the new antifreeze/water mix I just put in.
I think I understand though. Before when the car was running and I had the defrost on and things were good, I also had the radiator cap off. So now that the cap is on and the engine is hot, the pressure built up and the metal expanded from the heat of the coolant and the core is leaking MUCH worse than before. Before it was just a smell and it would create foggy windows instead of defogging them. Now it does the same thing but there's a visible mist now that fills the whole car.
I have a 5spd 90 legacy wagon AWD as well and I think maybe I'll swap the tires(fairly new)off this car onto the 5spd and drive that for a while, until I can get some money to buy a new heater core(new not used, screw that). The 5spd isn't as reliable. I've only had it a couple months and I drove it about 50 miles maybe. It has a noise present in the tranny. A growling sort of noise. When you put the clutch in, it goes away. It's there in every gear, including neutral. Plus the engine doesn't run as good. It seems to run fine when you're driving it but when you start it up it will die if you don't give it gas. That's only the first time you start it, after that it's ok but doesn't run as smoothly as my other legacy. Plus the right rear door does not unlock period. The right front door only opens if you hold the lock in while pulling the handle open from the inside. And the power window controls for the driver door are all messed up. The drivers door is fine but you can only roll the rear driverside window down, not back up.
This sucks.
Oh yeah, I also have an 89 toyota pickup. I can drive that thing but it's scary to drive. It was in an accident which either bent the frame(so les schwab claims but a body shop told me it's not bent)and they said they did the alignment as best they could. But it still pulls really bad to the left and it looks like it's because the left wheel is pointed to the left while the right wheel is straight and the camber is all tilted on that wheel as well. When it's wet out and you take a corner to the left too sharp the truck goes straight because the wheels are not pointed the same direction and you can hear the left one sliding sideways. This vehicle either has air pockets in it as well or the heater core is clogged because I get no heat and the engine runs sort of hot. Not that hot but hotter than it used to.
The gas guage does not work in the truck. I live on the tallest hill around here. It's over 3/4 of a mile up and it's pretty steep. I've run out of gas in the same spot halfway up the hill 3 or 4 times now in that truck. One of the bolts that holds the left control arm is stripped out and only screwed in about halfway and won't go any further so the control arm is loose and you can hear it rattle when you hit bumps.
Autozone - $355 (not in stock)
Schucks - $313 (can't get it, for some reason?)
Anywhere else that might have one cheaper? That's really high, it's just a stupid miniture radiator basically.
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You can see it moving. And you can hear it moving the doors inside the heater unit. I think it's just got air in the system. I just checked it after it sat for a day and it's low so I put some more water in it. I've never had so much difficulty getting the air out of a vehicle before. Probably because I removed the heater core and it was drained out when I put it back in.
I'm gonna go search for methods of getting the air out. Thanks.
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The wire that goes from the controls to the heater unit under the glovebox? Yeah I hooked that up. I was busy yesterday so I didn't work on the car at all but I'm heading outside to see if I can get any more air out of the system right now.
Thanks
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lol I guess that's just been my experience with that place. Although I've heard nothing bad but stories from everyone else as well who's dealt with that store.
Just because you own a subaru doesn't mean anything.
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You've never seen what?
It's got AC but it doesn't work.
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Washington has very mild winters and summers. Well basically mild all year round, if you can stand the rain.
It can't be the recirculation switch because my car doesn't have one. You just press what vents you want and it chooses for you whether to bring in fresh air or recirculate.
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Well, at this point in time I can't afford a new part. I went online and autozone wanted 350 bucks for it. That's outrageous! I can't believe that's real but even if it was 80 bucks like the other guy said from schmuck's, that's still too much. I have a truck I can drive and if I have to, another subaru AWD wagon. Same year too lol.
I turned the defrost on for probably 15 mins or more and it didn't fog up like it was before. It didn't get warm but it didn't fog the windows up either. I'm not too worried about it.
If I had to, I'd rock a snowboard jacket and my boarding beanie with the earflaps! I love that hat. Hell, I'd drive up to the mountain like that with the windows cracked! I'd just have to get those plastic rain deflector things that go above the window so no snow or rain will get me wet.
Even though it was frustrating and a lot of work, it went back together twice as fast as it came apart. And much easier too. I'm sure once I get this job as a dealer at the casino and have income again, It won't be nearly as hard to do it again. I know where everything goes now and how it all comes apart and goes back together. It was a learning experience.
Thanks for the help!
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I did that forever. It won't take anymore water. For a while it was slowly going down and I kept pouring water in it. I did this for probably 15 mins and now it won't take anymore water. I put almost a gallon and a half in it and it takes just shy of 2 gallons (7.3 quarts I think) and I know that 2 gallons did not drain out of it yesterday.
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Tested out the heater and I think the heater core is clogged. I didn't think it was clogged when I had it out because I put pressure in one pipe and put my thumb over the other pipe and when I let my thumb off a little water came shooting out. So I assumed that meant it wasn't clogged.
Now I think it is. The engine got warm quick and the fans turned on and now they're on constantly and there's no warm air coming out of the heater on full blast with the heat all the way up. I felt the hose that brings the water into the heater and it's hot. The hose coming out is luke warm. At best. The only thing that could be wrong is the heater core is clogged. Correct? But then why was there heat before I took the heater core out? How could it have gotten clogged overnight? This is bull$#%@!
Yep, that's her. She takes my girlfriend's cell phone all the time and pushes the buttons and always winds up hitting send a couple times and calling whoever was the last on the call list. She doesn't say much yet, though. On the phone she just says "hi" and "hello" over and over and over again.
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I wasn't planning on putting a new one in anyways. It's too expensive. I was just going to get one from the junkyard for 10 bucks.
It's already in and everything. I'll test it out.
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Not at all. Think of all the knowledge you've gained.
And as a bonus, we all got to meet a cute little tool thief.
Good point! The dash is actually going back in very easily. It went back together much quicker than it came out. I was taken aback. It's not finished, I'm hooking the stereo so I can listen to some music while I put the glove box, guage cluster, center console, etc back in.
Once I got the dash out I realized that I still had to remove the entire heater system including the evaporator for the AC and the blower motor and housing, all the wiring and heating ducts on the driver side and all sorts of stuff in order to reach the firewall so I'll skip the deadening. Another time.
Yes the pressure did hold. I filled it with water and applied a little over 10 lbs of pressure in it and nothing happened. The floor was not wet when I removed the dash or beforehand either. But I know the smell of antifreeze and I could clearly smell it when the heater/defrost was on.
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I pressue tested it just now while it was full of water. I bolted the pipes back on it and filled them up too to make sure it wasn't leaking where the pipes connect to the heater core. No leaks. I'm very disappointed.
I'm begining to think I did all that for nothing. In fact, I'm positive that I've just wasted most of yesterday and I'm sure most of today as well.
The heater core is fine.
What else could it be? That's the only place coolant travels inside the vehicle. This sucks.
ericem - Is that your car? Do you have any other bigger pictures of it?
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I'm about 5,11 maybe 6 ft and 160 lbs. Not too big but I wouldn't say I'm small either. I guess taking the seats out would have made it a bit easier but it never crossed my mind.
I don't have airbags in my car, it's only a 90 and it's just a base model I think.
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I see you stealing my screwdriver!
That's right, I'm on to you!
Once I removed the heater core I filled it with water and let it sit for several hours. It hasn't leaked at all but that doesn't mean it won't leak under pressure. I'm not going to be happy if I find out this thing is perfectly fine and the problem lies elsewhere. I guess we'll see.
I think I can adjust my air compressor to a certain psi. 15 you say? I think the radiator cap is probably 13 so that sounds about right.
This has been the most difficult and frustrating thing I've ever done on any vehicle. I'd rather put a new engine in my car then do this any day, including the tranny and the whole drivetrain. It took me probably 4 hours to get that out. Install will probably take 6.
Ticking Heater Controls
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I have a 90 legacy AWD 4EAT and when I got the car I noticed that it was stuck on heat and when you clicked anything else you could hear it clicking as if it were trying to move something but was stuck on something. Somehow this eventually fixed itself a month or so later.
Anyways, it's back again and it's annoying. Can this be lubed or something or does it need to be replaced? If you stick your hand down there under the driverside dash and manually push the lever, it stops clicking and opens/closes the vents accordingly.