kimokalihi

Yeah all the studs on the diffs are in the same location as far as I know. My diff is from a 97 JDM Forester which would have the same bushings are your car in the subframe itself and I had to switch the studs out with shorter studs to fit in my car. I always wondered why they were so much longer. Now I know.

I believe so but I can't say for sure as I've never held any in my hand that were new. I could move them by hand but they weren't torn at all. This is with 180,000 miles on them. I had a feeling 95-01 would have the bushings directly in the subframe as this is the way it's done on the imprezas of the same years.

I decided to do a little write-up on these bushings because I had such a hard time finding them. What's the point of them you ask? They are much stiffer than the OEM bushings and they significantly reduce the rear differential's ability to rotate when torque is applied via the driveshaft. This gives you more torque (throttle response) to the rear wheels and also helps eliminate a lot of the dreaded "clunk" in most older subarus. There's many companies including whiteline and turn-in-concepts that sells these bushings but they're only for 2002+ which won't fit 1st gen legacys. The bushings are not sold in the USA to the best of my knowledge. I stumbled across them by accident over on eBay UK. They're made by PowerFlex and they're list as "(PFR69-123) Rear Diff Mount, Early RA & UK WRX Models" but they also fit our cars because we have the same rear diff mounting bracket. http://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Rear+Diff+Mount%2C+Early+RA+%26+UK+WRX+Models/1817.html Only the 93-94 GC Impreza uses this bracket. 95-01 Imprezas have bushings directly in the subframe with no bracket. In 2002+ Subaru went back to the bracket but used smaller bushings and the bracket was no longer offset like ours. So here's what $80 will get you. Tools required to get the job done: 17mm Wrench 17mm Socket Extension Swivel Adapter Hammer Impact Gun (speeds it up but not required) Hack Saw Punch 2 Extra 17mm Nuts Wire Wheel Ginder (cleans everything up while off the car; optional) Jack your car up using blocks under the front tires and set it down on jackstands. Shake car and jack stands to make sure it's sturdy before crawling underneath. Screw the 2 extra 17mm nuts onto the ends of the studs on the back of the rear diff. This allows you to get a wrench on the inner nuts and loosen the studs without the nut coming off. Then use your 17mm wrench to remove the 2 studs as pictured below. Make sure to support the diff with a jack before removing them all the way. Remove the two bolts holding the bracket in the subframe. The right side bolt hits the axle so the diff must be lowered to gain clearance to pull the bolt out. I thought to myself,"Why did these idiots put the bolt in through this end if it hits the axle when you try to take it out!" Then I tried putting it in through the other side and realized it hits the gas tank. Once both bolts are removed yank the bracket out and you're left with this. I tried using a press to remove the bushings which are housed in a metal sleeve which also has to come out and that was a major PITA and got me nowhere. Then I got the idea that I could cut the bushing out and use a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and punch it out. It worked really well. Take your hacksaw blade off and insert it through the hole in the bushing and cut both ends off. Remove the bushing and proceed to cut two slices almost all the way through the sleeve. Then use a hammer and punch to remove the piece in between. This relieves pressure of the sleeve and allows it to come right out. This is a good time to clean the bracket up nicely inside and out. Wire wheel got all the dirt and grease off easily. Careful not to remove the paint or it will rust. Use the supplied grease to lube up the new bushings and metal bolt sleeves and pop them into the bracket. Hard part is over. Get back under your car and jam the bracket back into the subframe starting with the left end and then insert the right side and line up the bolt holes. Insert the bolts into each end. Reinstall the diff studs before torquing anything so it's easy to get them in. Then tighten them all up really nicely by hand and go test drive your car, hopefully with much less drivetrain clunk! Killed the remaining clunk leftover after replacing my trans crossmember bushings, rear diff outrigger bushings, subframe locking bolts and driveshaft carrier bushings.

Transmission is crap for freeway driving. RPMs are too high going 70 or even 60 and it gets bad mileage over 50mph. The 2nd gear synchro on the metro is shot so double clutching is a necessity. Other than that the metro is in perfect condition and it's been completely stripped and tons of sound deadener to make it not so much of a tin can and it has a very nice sound system in it. I get 38mpg driving the metro but if I drove it slower I would get 42ish. But that's no fun. The problem with the Justy is that it's so rare. Worries me because parts are not easy to come by. I wish all my cars were 4WD or better yet AWD like my legacy. Unfortunately the legacy gets about 22mpg with that 4.444 trans and EJ20G swap with TD05 18g turbo and 525cc injectors.

I've got a friend who has at least 3 justy's, one of which is the same year and trim as mine and color even that I scored a lot of missing interior parts and a hood and tires from. I'm trying to work a deal with him to get his 90 Justy RS 4WD 5MT and a fuel injected engine. He wants $1,500 for it but I don't know if he's got the hookup on the EFI stuff or not. He's had 5 Justy's or maybe he still has 5 I don't know. He's got a huge junyard of subaru's on his property and I've only seen a handful of them but he's got several brats out there too. Real nice RX too that he wants to swap a JDM WRX engine into so if I could find one of those cheap I could save some money lol. I need to make a decision with him soon though because if I am going to do that I'll need to sell the metro and if not I need to sell this Justy because it's costing me on my insurance and I'm losing money on it.

Thanks ferox. I'll check out the strut prices. I hear the back passenger side knocking and seemingly bottoming out on corners when I had a friend in the back. Sway bar would be nice but stiffer springs would be better. The bushings on the front sway bar and really everything else on this car are shot. I think all the motor and trans mounts are toast too the rubber is so soft it's ridiculous. Going from my turbo legacy on coilovers and bigger sway bars is like going from a go kart to cadillac. Do you know if the gen 2 suspension is any better or worth swapping over? Or at least has adjustments for camber. I've never seen a car that didn't have any camber adjustment but I guess I don't work on old cars like this.

Oh good point on the hitch. Where do I get new struts?

lol I'd love to. I wish the 90 RS 4WD Justy I found was EFI. That would make it a hell of a lot easier. But if there's no way to adjust camber on the 2nd gen just suspension then I think it's a no-go for me. The camber is so bad it's going to wear through tires in a few months. Plus it handles like rump roast and you can hear the front tires squeal when making turns on dry pavement. The back end feels like it's drifting out when changing lanes on the freeway or taking corners. It actually feels like you have flat tires in the rear. I don't know what that's all about, could be really soft springs or bad bushings I suppose. Scares me though.

Did the 90+ justy's have camber adjustments on the suspension? The camber on this car is way negative and the tires that were on it when I got it were worn down to the belts on the insides and the outsides were so new the rubber fingers were still on the sides!

Anybody know Justys or swapped the whole drivetrain and suspension and EFI engine into a 1st gen? The Justy forum I found is great except nobody is on it. Literally maybe 5 posts per day but that's on the high side. I can't get any answers over there. Pissing me off because I need to figure this out. Having 3 cars on my insurance is not cool. Need to make a decision quick because I have a potential buyer already and insurance cuts into my profit. I'd like to swap the EFI engine in with the 4WD and the suspension and sell the metro. I could get $3,500 for the metro.

Here's my Justy I just bought about 3 weeks ago. Got a decent deal on it from a sketchy rump roast guy up in Spanaway. Never been there before and I never want to go back. I wish I had taken photos right when I got it because this thing was nasty. Now it's in amazing shape for how old it is! I've recovered pretty much everything it was missing and it's 10X the Justy it was when I picked it up. I'm torn between selling it right now for a bit of profit and buy another car to fix up or swapping everything from a 4WD 90 RS Justy I found over to this one because it has the cooler body style and my friend also has a fuel injected Justy I could swap everything for EFI. That would be a cool car!

Alright, well it's a used JDM engine then. Around here everyone calls them crate motors for as far back as I can remember.

I thought crate engine meant it was shipped in a crate from Japan. Meaning it was a used engine they replaced once they got 40-60K miles on them?

I just looked on ebay and they are all either EJ22 SOHC (timing belt won't fit a DOHC 2.0) or WRX 2.0 motors. I don't know if the WRX stuff will fit this motor.

I have an EJ20 JDM turbo motor that I just bought and will be putting into my new 91 Legagy Sedan AWD 5spd. The motor is a crate motor from Tiger Japanese motors. What should I replace while the motor is out of the car? Timing belt, idlers, tensioner. Anything else? Where is the best place to get these things? Probably subaru dealer but I'm willing to bet that's the most expensive place as well. Will the dealership have a serpentine belt that will fit a DOHC JDM EJ20 motor?

That's pretty far away. How much would shipping be? Is that his email or yours? Do you know the details on the engine? Milage? Condition? Price? I'll email these questions. Thanks.

Alright so I'm not going to use that block because I don't want to pay the $500 to get it from him. Does anybody know where I should go from here? Or have a suggestion? I have all the rest of the EJ22 Turbo motor except the block with all the internals in it. I have the EJ20G DOHC JDM heads too. Should I try to find a shortblock in good condition or rebuilt? Should I just find a whole engine and put the DOHC heads on it? Should I bother with putting the heads on a motor? Any other ideas are welcome too. I basically need help, don't know how I should get this car running. What about those EJ20 twin turbo motors on ebay for $1000-$1300 with the ECU, wire harness, tranny, rear diff, etc etc? Could I get one of those and just run a single turbo off it without any modifications? Will my USDM ECU for the EJ22 turbo work with one of those engines? Help!

Problem with that is, I have to give him the $500 I kept if I want the block and I don't know what I'm doing so I don't think it's a good idea for me to try to open up the block and replace them myself. Don't you think for $500 I could find a good block or even a motor?

Yeah that's what I thought. It moves way too much. So I already have the rest of the motor and I guess now I have to find a block. Anybody know where you can buy subaru shortblocks rebuilt or really low milage or even new for $500 or so?

Alright I called subaru dealer and they told me that if it's got that much play than it's either been driven really hard or overheated and it should never have that much play in it. I looked it up in my haynes manual and it says (if I'm looking at the right spec) that the Crankshaft Endplay should be between .0012 - .0045" and maxiumum service limit it .010 so .125 which is around what it's at now is WAY to much play. It's 27 times more play than it should be without replacing the bearings. Which was quoted to me for $450 from the subaru shop up north. So I just called the guy and left him a message. The guy he bought it from is either lieing or he doesn't know what he's talking about.

Is it normal for a crank shaft in a EJ22 Turbo engine to slide about an 1/8" back and forth when the engine is out of the car? The crank gear is on and the flywheel is bolted on so there's nothing you can tighten up to stop if from moving in and out when you pull and push on it. I bought a car yesterday and ended up giving the guy $500 less than he was asking and he kept the block for now but I got the heads and everything else(heads are off a 2.0 DOHC). A friend of his told him it was the bearings were worn out and needed to be replaced and that was going for be $400 for labor and $50 for bearings. He kept the block and called the guy who sold it to him who owns a subaru shop and he said it's normal for 5 speed engines to have play in the crank shaft like this. He was going to see if the guy would replace the bearings for free for selling it to him like that but he's not going to do it since he thinks the motor is fine. I want to put this motor in my car with a new clutch, oil pump, water pump, tensioner, idlers, knock sensor, crank sensor(someone ripped the wires out of it), head gaskets, etc and I don't want to get this thing together and run into problems or have something break. I may eventually build this motor up and run a bigger turbo on it. I'm not sure but I want it to last and be able to handle power. Is this engine OK or should I go find a new one? It's not worth $450 to have someone replace the bearings when you can get a whole engine for that much.

I'll just give whoever buys the car the new starter contacts and if they have problems with it they can replace them and see if that fixes it.

The car has started right up every time I've gotten in it the last 2 days. I've started it probably at least 6 times. Maybe 8. Should I bother putting the new contacts in when they get here or just give them to whoever buys the car and tell them it has good contacts in it but if they have any problems with it, here's a brand new set?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/818857309.html For sale ad with picturs in case anyone wants to see the car I'm talking about. You can see in the back a big spot on the carpet behind the rear seats where some of that smell seems to be coming from.

I thought the carfax thing was unlimited meaning forever. Apparently that's just for one year. Oh well. I already paid for it. I guess that's not a bad deal but still i don't really plan on using it anytime for anything but this. I ran my vin and it says there was never any flood damge reported. 02/04/2006 Washington Motor Vehicle Dept. Tenino, WA Title #0028424504 Title issued or updated New owner reported Exempt from odometer reporting Vehicle color noted as Pink Apparently somebody has a hard time seeing. That's the date I purchased the car and it was not pink. It's grey.