kimokalihi

So is it a pretty easy replacement? Would you replace the whole starter or just the contacts?

Well if the contacts are corroded or whatever, shouldn't they be cleaned? A hammer is only going to work so many times right?

X2 on the starter contacts. My 90 Legacy automatic does this from time to time. I think I should do something about it before it quits working at all. Oh well, I hardly ever drive it. Is this a hard thing to fix?

Might as well. That's easy too.

Alright I've decided to say screw it. I wasn't really looking for this car in the first place. What happens is, I get bored because I work nights and I run out of things to do on the internet. So I search for ************ for sale trying to find good deals. This time a turbo legacy(I've wanted one for a year or two)popped into my head and there happened to be a cheap one within 45 minutes or so of my house. Anyways, I can easily see it becoming a nightmare. What I was really worried about was how it blew after 10K miles after so called "rebuild" was done. I assumed the guy had been racing it. I was also worried about the WRX short block and what kind of frankinengine it's got in there. A little too much risk for me. I could put a tranny in it and pull the heads to have them worked on. I've replaced the automatic tranny in one of my legacys and it's not something I with to ever do again. Very difficult and to do it by yourself is near impossible unless you've got a well equiped shop with a nice tranny jack. I had none of the above. Anyways, thanks. Don't be suprised if I post another one of these in the coming months if I find another one lol.

Well I offered $1000 before said head gaskets were blown. So now what should I offer? Or should I forget it? I thought this would be a really fun car to drive. Always wanted a turbo legacy and it's 5 speed but I dunno. I have 2 legacy wagons that I could get rid of. One is getting sold soon anyways. But I'd have to get the heads probably tested for leaks and cracks and have them milled and that would probably be like what 5 or 6 hundred dollars? I had the head on my toyota pickup milled and new valves and all the tests done for $360. Then I'd have to replace the tranny. That's a lot of money and a lot of work.

I found this car for sale and offered him $1000 for it. He replied stating that he found the problem that was causing the overheating and it's blown headgaskets. What's this car worth and should I bother with it? 1993 Turbo Legacy that im looking to sell or trade. The car was owned by Eric Eaton the owner of Frantic Four. http://franticfour.com/ The car itself is a white 1993 turbo legacy original 5 speed. The engine was rebuilt by Frantic Four with a wrx short block that had around 25k. ive only put about 10k on the engine since it was rebuilt. the car has about 104k miles on it. it doesnt have air conditioning and it has a rebuilt title. It has legacy gt wheels, a newer drive shaft, newer turbo, 3 inch catback, and newer legacy steering rack. Im looking for $1500 obo. Good -Brand new front brake rotors and pads. back brakes still good. -Brand new fuel pump. -Brand new battery. -It has Great interior. Bad -It runs but not very well. Theres something wrong with the coolent system that makes it overheat and not run well. -The tranny whines. I had it looked at and they said it was a bearing in the tranny that went bad.

Right on! I really want a subaru outback sport turbo 5spd. One of my favorite cars. I used to have a toyota pickup and it was awesome too. There's maybe 1 in every 10 or 15 cars at my work that carry the subaru name but there's also a parking lot 100 times larger.

You really want traces of ATF fluid going up your windshield and onto the paint on top of your roof?

It's probably not piston slap. My 90 legacy did the same thing when I put seafoam through it. It only did it for a day or two though. Then it went away. I'm pretty sure it's just the hydraulic lifters get freed up. Should go away. Or I could be wrong. I dunno.

Is this some sort of sick joke? If so, it's working...

You are aware that this is not my legacy, right? It's my new car, the chevy metro. The frame and fender well are in the way. Can't do anything about that. Even if I did break the bits in half, I still don't think it would be enough...MAYBE. Oh well, it's all done with now. Just have to keep checking it and hope for the best! That thing is kind of peppy for a 3 cylinder! I was slightly suprised. It's not fast but I expected it to be slower at 55hp. I think that's what it's got. Might be 45 actually and the 4 cylinder might be 55hp. I can't remember.

It's all back together. Um, I did not have enough room to drill the threads out and did not want to pull the engine and tranny. I put the new oil pump on and tightened the bolts by hand this time and they got pretty tight. If I tried making them really tight they would just keep turning but I think it was plenty tight enough. It's running great now and I don't think it's leaking at all. I just don't have the time to take the whole engine out and mess with it. I even bought a right angle bosch drill and a ryobi drill and drill bits and a right angle drill adapter for a regular drill but still wasn't going to have enough room to get it in there with the drill bit in. So I returned all that crap for 360 bucks back and said F it. Only problem it seems to have is a squeaky belt because I need to tighten it more. Thanks for the suggestions though. What's the time sert thing and where do you get it? For future reference. This has happened before, sort of. Mainly exhaust bolts on my toyota that I sold.

I accidently shifted my friend's 92ish toyota celica automatic into reverse while going 40 or so. It may a loud bang of sorts and gave a good jolt. Then I quickly put it back in drive. I pushed it from 3rd to D and it went easier than I expected it to so it shot right through D, N and into reverse. It seemed fine after that.

I'm thinking fire hazard for sure on that one. You really need to run those wires out of site through the dash and a pillar. The fiberglass idea wouldn't be bad. In fact, I would remove the driverside Apillar trim piece and fiberglass those gauges right into it. Fiberglass is not that hard. It just takes patience and effort. No cutting corners and being lazy/sloppy or it WILL look like crap. Here are some pics of my recent first time fiberglassing results... I don't think they turned out too bad. I ended up not using these but it was an excellent learning experience and I'm working on a custom fiberglass enclosure for my 10" Image Dynamics IDv.3 sub that's going to be mounted in the side compartment in the hatch area of my legacy wagon. I lost the link to a great fiberglass forum but I learned from a couple of videos I bought on fiberglassing from caraudiohelp.com and a lot of it I just learned myself from my mistakes. http://www.gadrivers.net/~dwicker/fiberglass.html There's a cool how to on making a fiberglass trunk enclosure that shows a step by step on how to make that. Which will give you a good idea of how it's done. These guys know how to fiberglass just about anything - http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/ Good luck! Also, those door pods are not the right shade for my interior because the body shop sold me the wrong spray dye. It said dark grey and came out light grey. They can also mix a dye for you that will perfectly match and interior piece you bring in and help it look stock. You can use a product called SEM(or 3M) fine texture spray that will give your piece the texture that the interior plastic trim pieces already have. Then you spray the spray dye over that and it will look OEM stock.

85mph!? That's F'n crazy.

Those pictures are terrible sorry. They were from my phone. The lighting was poor and there's no flash. The picture taken from through the wheel well is misleading. It looks as if I've pretty much got a clear shot of the pump but I don't. It was taken pretty low so you don't really see the wheel well in the way like you would if it had been straight on. Anyways, I gotta go help a friend with his water pump. This time I will not be using the torque wrench. Usually I just do it by hand but since I got this new torque wrench I was like hmm, why not do things by the book? The metal shouldn't have been bad, the engine is pretty clean, 96K miles on it and I don't think it's ever been changed before.

Alright, I guess I'll take another look at it and see if I can tap it. The book called for 96in/lbs...and I looked that up on the internet and it says 12in/lbs per foot lb and that should be 8 ft/lbs, right? Also, another confession...This is not on my legacy that's in my signature. It's on a 98 chevy metro. I'm sorry for posting this in here but I looked at how many people look in the off topic section and I didn't think I get any replies, at least not fast enough. There's hardly any room between the end of the block and the fender wheel well. Maybe the angle drill might work, I don't have one but I'll have to take another look and see if one will even fit. I'm going to guess that there's about 4 inches of room, 6 max. I'll go get a picture of it right now just to show you guys and see what you think.

I was replacing a oil pump and when I put the new one on I stripped every bolt on the stupid thing. I used a torque wrench and only set it to 8ft/lbs! Unbelievable! The bolts will get sort of tight but they won't get tight enough to click the torque wrench, they just get a certain tightness and keep spinning. I know the wrench works because it's brand new and I tested it on the fender bolt. It seems like it's tight enough that it won't leak but I can't be sure of that unless I put it all back together and drive it for a while. The only way I could really fix it would be to yank the whole engine and drill the holes out and then rethread them with a helicoil. I REALLY do not want to do that. This has been a major pain already. Do you think locktite or something would be sufficient? What are my options here? This really sucks.

I've got silverstars and I don't enjoy them either. They're not the "brightest legal lights on the market" like the guy at autozone told me. Plus it seems I saw better with the stock lights that put out a yellow light rather than white. I think I may order some Rarva +50 lights and see how those work. Also, I have had my silverstars for a little over a year and they're still working.

I'm not looking to rallycross or anything. This car will now be mainly for snowboarding I think. I just bought a 98 chevy metro so I'll be using that for my daily driver now. I'll check out tirerack and stoptech. I definately want them to work better than they currently do, but I assume any new brakes will work better than they do now. Yeah there's vibrations alright. I don't feel like buying 16" wheels or I would go with the WRX brakes. I just have stock steelies on them. And I think those are 14" wheels. set of 16" rota wheels with tires 70-80% tread flat black for 250 bucks on craigs list but it's over 3 hours away. Damn.

90 Legacy AWD 4eat...WAGON! My brakes feel like there's worn spots on them and they kind of shudder like there's a spot on the rotors that has a piece of invincible sandpaper on it. That's about the best I can explain it. I'm sure you've all felt this on old brakes. My question is, should I buy new rotors? Are there performance ones that I should look into? I've seen them on ebay all the time. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Legacy-90-05-Front-Drill-Slot-BRAKE-ROTORS-PADS_W0QQitemZ220116913010QQihZ012QQcategoryZ33564QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem What about those? Also, I read on here a long time ago that the slotted ones are no good for this car for one reason or another. I believe Nipper said this. Not 100% sure. What brand should I get? Where can I get them? How much am I looking at for all 4 rotors and pads? The current setup seems to have a lot of heat fading. They aren't working as well as I'd like them to. At least one squeals too. They're very Shiny! Not good. haha. Thanks in advance!

No I have no idea. How would I find out?

90 AWD legacy wagon 4eat 25 mpg 50-55 granny driving 22.5 mpg the "old me" driving haha(before the ticket that is) This car shows 290,000 miles on it. Runs amazing probably becuase it does not have the original engine. I don't know what happened to the engine or who put it in or anything really. No idea on the milage of the engine. I do know that I personally installed a 94 tranny that has about 140K miles on it now I think. That was over a year ago. The old tranny had enough and just quit working all together on the way up a big hill. RPMs shot through the roof and I started slowing down and then rolling backwards down the hill. 175 for the tranny if I had given them my core but I was too lazy so I paid another 25 bucks because I never got around to getting them my old tranny.

Exactly. It's just a resister and it doesn't even do anything for you. Why else would it be so damn cheap? Plus, I wouldn't recommend the air intake"mod". It's very controversial and IMO it will do more bad than good. For instance, it doesn't filter as well as the stock air filter box which is why it gets better airflow and if not maintained well enough and correctly it will cause even less performance. Plus, if you buy a short ram intake, you'll just be sucking in hot air from the engine bay instead of(I believe)cool air from the fender, outside the engine bay. A cold air intake I don't think will really benefit because I'm pretty sure the air from the fender is pretty cool already, so it's a huge waste of money. Plus then you have the "K&N" style filter that is very overrated. I know a guy who used to race funny cars and all sorts of track racing and he is also an ASE certified technician and he told me all about how you won't benefit from have the filter pointing out a hole in your bumper to "ram" it into the engine unless you're going 200mph. He also said that instead, you'd probably want it sucking air from where the bottom of your windshield meets the hood. This air will be dead because the air will flow right over your car and create a pocket of dead air right at the bottom of the windshield where it will be easy for the engine to suck it up. I would suggest a full exhaust with headers that flows better than stock. This can be pretty spendy though. I think your best power increase for the money is to just buy a turbo 2.2. Good luck!