cubastreet

The vultures are circling!

Well done. I imagine the front brakes will be solid disk not too different from your ute. I reckon you could go down with something strongish and a towing dolly, dismantle the caliper and just tow it home. Nice and light = easy to tow, no need for 2nd driver. Probably 1400 twin carb.

Not the yellow GSR Not the RWD lancer of fury if you think they're POS you've probably never driven a lancer LA. Is it really that hard to click the link?

I currently have the leading bid of $1 on this car, and was keeping quiet about it. I just got offered a good job for 9 months in America so someone else better grab it. It looks in good condition: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=114285479

Moto Guzzis are shaft driven, and I think maybe the BMW boxer bikes are too.

I changed a dodgy CV and swapped to electronic dizzy just before it got crashed, and now I've swapped to 14" rally rims with mud & snow yokos. Yesterday I swapped heaters for one that works (big mish) and installed an old but good component cassette stereo, for oldschool cool. Today I changed the brake fluid and drained and replaced the gearbox oil, adding a bottle of snake oil. The bad synchro on 1-2 now works a lot better. This little soob is running better than it has in years. Toimorrow I'm driving on a ferry for a south island trip. Will drive down the east coast to christchurch then over the mountains to the west coast and up. should be awesome, it's my first road trip in ages. After that I've got a rear LSD to throw on, some big valve heads I'm slowly porting and a nice weber carb off a 2 litre fiat twincam engine. Should go pretty good after that.

Hey all, My brumby has been off the road since a woman crashed into it last June. I had to find a new door and front guard (difficult in New Zealand for gen1) and then panelbeat, fill and spray them. I also had to weld a few patches around the car, as the rust spots were starting to spread and they are VERY tough on rust here. I finally got all the work done and took it in for it's warrant of fitness test, and it sailed through. I already have a road trip planned in about a weeks time, so it's a relief to say the least. Pics will follow...

You might want to take some measurements before jumping into it. When I got my brumby the word was that you couldn't stick an ohc engine in a gen1 without widening the chassis. All the write-ups I've seen have been into gen2 or gen3 cars. There's only an inch clearance on each side with the ea81, and the ej18 in my mate's car looks a lot wider than an ea.

If I could get a gas tank to replace the brumby's petrol tank I'd convert it to dedicated LPG, but I don't want to lose any space in the tray, it's small enough already.

I spent ten hours in brisbane this year, was enough for me. You can buy a little black box that will retard the timing when running on petrol. I didn't have one, I just set it for LPG so it didn't like petrol too much. I was going to program a pic to read a lambda sensor and control a stepper motor for the gas but then someone gave me one, which was very worthwhile.

Have a look at that link and the work the guy had to do - i.e. chassis widening etc. I don't think even the ea82 will fit as it's OHC so it's wider than the ea81. If you want to put in a modern engine it's much easier to start with a gen2 car. personally I like the look of gen1 cars a lot more.

If you're good with cutting and welding you could probably fit an EJ22 in there, but I don't think it'll fit a gen1 chassis without help. For my EA81 I'm currently porting some big valve heads. I then plan to make a custom manifold, MPFI with megasquirt and then supercharge it with an eaton M45.

No it won't normally give more power. It will probably give slightly less, especially if you don't remap your timing.

Depends - toe in leads to greater stability at speed, toe out helps with fast cornering.

when did u move to oz?

I want same for my 81 brumby. Low as for on-road but I still love taking it on minor off-road excursions.

It depends on your setup. When I did my 1st conversion my power increased but that's most likely because my carb needed attention. On a dual fuel setup you'll lose a bit of mileage but if you make it LPG only and raise the compression a couple of points you'll make that back. LPG is more knock resistant than petrol.

No, the skidplate just protects the sump, it doesn't increase clearance. Removing the sump increases clearance.

Look up The UK Landrover guys, they know all there is to know on LPG carbie setups. Mostly for the rover V8 (buick 205) but it's all the same really.

Yeah it's pretty cool. Paint and lower it and work the engine a little to get the most of those twin carbs and it'll be mean.

For ball joints, cvs etc repco and super************e were absolutely useless so I go to a local place called collins where the guys there don't mind looking around for stuff. For a front cv the guy ordered one in, then when it was wrong, he ordered the same part number from another supplier to see if it was right - it was. I'll have a look at the chassis no. today.

Me too but i have three cars already and I live in Wellington - the city with the least space. My ute should be back on the road this week, that should make me happy anyway. I have a mazda with over twice the power, but it's just not a soob.

Yeah weber's good. Sorry no photos I don't hsve LPG at the moment.

My fav: http://tinyurl.com/yswvll

Phiz is right it's cos you fire two bangs down one header and then two down the other. There's different amounts of scavenging depending on whether there's a charge running down the header or not, and therefore a different sound. I used to have a 2.0 V4 - in a mk1 ford transit.