drugh
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Posts posted by drugh
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You could always get a stainless bolt in that size that has 65mm of thread. Of course you would have to chase the threads with a bolt where you make the cut.
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Not to contradict others, but I've got group N engine mounts in my Phase 1 EJ 2.2 swapped Loyale and they dropped right in without any grinding or cutting of anything.
They cause some vibrations at stoplights but they feel great when driving hard.
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If you pedal bled the brakes yourself, you could have scored the seals in the MC.
The way I have heard it, you move the MC seals further than usual when the pedal is applied to the floor. Any sediment in the MC can score the seals. A way to prevent this scoring is to put a 2x4good under the brake pedal during bleeding to eliminate the last portion of pedal travel.
And yes, I learned this the hard way with a 92 loyale. Very similar to your situation a few years back and a new MC fixed it.
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Don't worry about the marks on the belt lining up after rotation. The marks are just there for the install.
Just make sure the crank and cam pulley marks are pointing "up" every couple rotations as they did when you installed the belt.
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excellent thank you for the response, I'm looking into that as we speak. would you happen to have a picture of the fuel lines you're speaking of?
I dont have a pic, but I just put my EJ22 back in the car after a headgasket repair last week so I have a good picture in my mind.
The lines that I am referring to connect at the drivers side intake manifold. There are 3 of them (fuel supply, fuel return, and vent).
On the chassis side, the fuel supply line has the filter on it obviously. As for the other 2, blow compressed air into the rubber tubes. The vent line wont make any noise, but if you blow air in the fuel return line you will hear bubbling in the tank.
On the engine side, you can just carefully follow by eye where the hardlines run along the intake manifold. One of the lines just runs to the canister, connect the vent hose there.
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thats the thing.. I'm not sure if it has a solenoid for the canister (non-turbo, obd1 dualport ej). I tried looping the hardlines together and it started sputtering and died like it was flooded after a mile, so I pulled that off and it spewed fuel all over. I hooked up the canister to the two top lines but I'm unsure where to put the line that comes out of the bottom? thanks guys!
My EJ swap into a EA82 wagon is the same setup (1993 non-turbo, obd1 dualport ej). Connect the 2 lines to the top of the canister. The larger line is the fuel tank vent and the smaller one is the output to the purge canister solenoid. Connecting the lines together would cause the engine to run rich as you noted. The tube coming out the bottom is just a vent, it should be left open and doesn't need to be connected to anything. I don't have one of the white things on the vent line either, don't worry about it.
Also, double check your fuel line connections on the drivers side of the engine. You shouldn't have fuel in the vent line as you described. You might have the connections mixed up.
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Okay, replaced the hose and clamps. Got the gasket today. There was no gasket before. There were grease/dirty marks from where an old gasket was, but I did not find an old gasket. Anyways put the car back together, and as I was adding coolant, I noticed it was leaking from the same area. It was dripping from one of the two solenoids near the thermostat. I found that the line from the solenoid to the throttle body was severed. I think that was a coolant line, but I always thought it was a vacuum line. Anyways, fixed that, and no more leaking coolant. However, now the car won't start.
When I put the key in the start position, it turns over for a split second, then just clicks. I've had this happen before, but now I can't seem to fix it. Cleaned and tightened the battery terminals. The connection at the starter is nice and tight. Very little resistance in the wire (about 0.01 ohms). Battery is reading 12.43 volts.Taking a break now, so if you guys have any ideas before I head out there again, I'd appreciate it.
Unless I am misunderstanding...the 2 solenoids near the thermostat are not associated with the cooling system. They are the purge and EGR solenoids, and they should definitely not have coolant leaking out of them. Youve got big problems (cracked intake manifold?) if you have coolant in those vacuum lines.
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I just completed an EA81 SPFI swap about a month ago.
All three of the items that you are picturing can be removed. When you are done you will only have the ignition relay (brown) and the fuel pump relay remaining.
The large white connector is a dealer diagnostic plug I think. Was it located next to the test mode connectors?
Keep up the good work. The swap is 100% worth it in my book.
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From what I have read, and been told, the standard height may give around 1/4" of lift until they break in. It's common to have the illusion of an inch of lift, but it's actually because you are used to the worn out/tired original springs that were on your car. But again, that's just what I have read, and been told. I plan on towing a snowmobile trailer from time to time, and don't want the rear end to sag to much, so if I have good struts, with at least rear King springs, I should be good.
I measured the top of the wheel arches before and after, and I am running larger tires with no rub ever and no bashing/trimming (205/60R15 or 185/75R14 depending on the season). I also put on new GR2s with the springs, so maybe that added some as well. The lift is not an illusion.
Regardless, the springs are great, and paul at primitve racing is a very nice guy to deal with. He can also confirm the lift that the springs produce if you dont beleive me.
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Earlier in the thread you mentioned the "standard height" king springs. I will chime in because I have those springs (front and back) and they give you about 1 inch of suspension lift. They are stiffer.
They make the loyale handle great by the way...and no more saggy rear end when carrying lots of gear or passengers.
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The dual port magnaflow headers fit the ea82 body and crossmember well. Ive been running one on my EJ22 loyale for a year and a half without issue. Bombproof construction and great sound.
I did have to grind out a very small notch (approx 3/8" deep by 2" wide) out of the front xmember where the drivers side pipe turns from vertical to horizontal. The mandrel bend of the header has a slightly longer radius than the stock EJ exhaust.
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What boat is that? Looks like a Perception ARC?
Good to see other paddlers on here...here my brat with my greenboat on it!
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You have to turn the piston clockwise as you compress it back in. This is part of the front wheel e-brake system.
Oreilys sells a little tool for 7 or 8 bucks that makes this very easy. You can also do it carefully with pliers. Turn the piston 90 degrees clockwise, then depress it a little bit, and repeat that sequence until it is flush with the caliper.
Be sure to rotate the piston to the same orientation that you found it in...You will notice that the inner pads have little dimples that fit in the piston when it is aligned correctly.
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Anyone know of a place where the wiring diagrams can be had for a 1988 EA82 DL Wagon? I searched on here but I came up with nothing.
I really only need the engine related wiring but a diagram for the whole harness might be nice.
Need diagrams for an SPFI swap in my 1984 ea81 Brat.
Thanks
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What year is the ea82 that is getting scrapped? Is it carbed or fuel injected? Im looking for an spfi setup.
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Put me down for 2 XLs when they are available.
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I will second the Craftsman Multimeters. I have had this one for 10+ years, and it still appears to be available and it looks identical to mine.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter/p-03482139000P
Not fancy but it hasnt broken yet.
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Speaking of motor mounts for your EJ swap, it might be a good time to make shims described in post #9.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72902&highlight=EJ+swap+motor+mounts
Some people have problems with the mounts splitting, others do not seem to have the issue.
My motor mounts lasted about 1/2 tank of gas before they split and the motor was jumping all over the place.
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When I put the D/R tranny in my loyale, the old 5speed push button shifter handle became the tap handle for the garage kegerator.
I have not seen a better tap handle anywhere else.
I has worked flawlessly like that for about 4 years now.
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The best thing I ever did to the dead clock hole was an EJ22 swap...then I found a nice place for my aftermarket temp gauge.
Yeah I have read about the resistor thing to get the temp gauge to work...but that doesnt work if part of your cluster was dead before the swap.
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Napa sells reducer bushings so you can use the EJ rad hoses. They take up the annular space between the large hose and the smaller rad fitting. They cost a couple bucks each, I used them in my loyale with the original rad and an EJ22.
Try that maybe.
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Farm stores carry thick rubber "stall mats" that can be cut to fit with a jigsaw. They are very heavy duty about 3/4" thick.
I have one in the back of my loyale and it is great.
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You have any pictures of those wheels? Also your post says $500 per set and youre site says $400...which is it?
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Do you have the ECU c10 wire (per numbchux writeup) from the ECU connected to the starter solenoid?
Also, it cant hurt to add an extra grounding strap between the block and the passenger side firewall.
Show off your headers
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Stock 2.2 headers fit perfectly.
I also had Magnaflow dual port 2.2 headers and they fit in a 92 Loyale with very minimal grinding of the drivers side engine crossmember.
When I say minimal I mean about about 2' wide by 1/8' deep. Doesn't reduce structural integrity at all.
They only reason that the aftermarket requires grinding was that they had 2 45 degree bends a couple inches apart where the stockers had a single 90 bend to get around the crossmember.