brat86

Went to lunch to check out a Jag XKSS today, check out the 360 they got. http://www.vintagemotorssarasota.com/Car_pages/Subaru/70subaru/70subaru.htm They've got a lot of other nice toys too. http://www.vintagemotorssarasota.com

Awesome pics. That's dedication, if we had corrosion inspections here there would be a lot less gen1 and 2 sube's on the road. Shipping should be straight forward. I Know a German mechanic here who ships motorcycle parts to his dad. Hasn't had any problems.

2 people, two sticks and very thin wire. Use the sticks as handles for drawing the wire through the urethane.

Same noise on an '82 GL I had 10 years ago. Stripped front hub. I changed the hub too late because the old cv stub wore out the new hub. Ended up changing the hub and cv at the same time and had to do the same on the other side 6mo later. Just had to change the right one on my '89 3dr. Just the hub though. The axle splines looked ok and this car is going a way as soon as my Brat is resurrected. My thoughts are that mechanics are not torquing the castle nuts enough when doing cv axles. I've seen Mazda and Isuzu both call for 15 ft lbs on their front wheel drives. Subaru is like 125 ft lbs or so. Thus the hub wobbles and strips out. Could still be the wheel bearings though...

My question was concerning the fuel computer requiring a 4 pulse signal per revolution of the speedo cable. My Brat has factory cruise which also requires a speed sensor. I want to know if the cruise sensor is the same one as the ecu or can I parallel the the sensor to both computers. I would rather not try to put the EA-82 instr. cluster in my Brat. Oh yeah, when I bought the doner EA-82, it came with the p/s pump and a/c compressor. We'll see....

I read alot of carbed EA-82 transplants, has anyone got a tbi up and running? The only part of the fuel control system I'm missing is the instrument cluster. If my BRAT has cruise control, can't I use the speed sensor in the current speedo?

I'm still preping (painting and reassembling) my spfi EA82. My plan on the frame was to shim the engine mounts to raise the engine a half inch or so. No lift, my brat is a pavement muncher. May lower it a little though. I like the way it corners during Florida's rainy season in 4wd. Posi's cool on a wet road. I'm also planning to use the FI computer and will try to photo and document all I can.

Time I have. Money I don't. Broke my leg in June and am just now only working about half time. I'm looking at about $12 a valve from the local dealer. The in's are shot. But the ex's seem ok. I was going to lightly grind the seat margin to get a "factory fresh" seal. Probably not necessary, but I have access to an old Black and Decker valve grinder and have never done it. I will practice on the in's first though.

I Bought an EA-82 for $100 a little over a year ago. It came with the engine in "pull out" condition, alt, a/c compressor, ps pump all still attached. Got the ECU, wiring harness, complete intake ducts and filter box, cat Y pipe, and the fuel pump. I got it from an individual the said he pulled it from a wrecked Loyale wagon with 120K on it. Anyway, after disassembly I was left wondering what the hell happened to this engine. The pcv system was clogged completly with parafin as was the cam carriers and top of each head. Only the rod bearings showed any wear and a couple of light scratches in one cyl. The oil pan has about a 1 inch dent in the lower leading edge. Could the reduced size of the pan and lack of useful baffling caused the oil to foam and react with blowby gasses or what? I have not seen this much wax in an engine since high school when I tore down my dad's 427 Cobra motor (in an F150, not a Cobra though). It had had 20 years worth of the older Quaker State formula, but the newer oils are not suposed to break down like that. Has anyone else seen this in the OHC models or just me?

Graphite? I seem to recall Teflon being used, but don't remember the source.

I have a few questions about the in and ex valves in an EA-82. 1. What would cause the intake valves to become pitted on the cylinder side? The ex valves are not pitted. 2. Are the valves coated? After cleaning, one of the ex valves has a light spot that looks like bare metal. The rest of the valve face and the other 3 ex's are dark. Is this a factory coating or baked on oil like a cast iron frying pan? 3. What is the seat angle for the ex valves? I need to cut costs as much as possible so I may regrind the ex's depending on the answer to Q2.