v8vega215

My brat did the same thing and it turned out to be a caliper wasnt releasing all the way, It finnaly locked up on the freeway.

I tryed a search on this and came up with nothing so Im sorry if this has been posted before. I was thinking about lifting my 79DL brat when I graduate in the summer (more free time). I was wondering if you could do this more than three inches, Mudrat can build me a lift of 3" but I was hopeing for more. Qman told me that the best bet is to sub in a seconed gen rear suspention and sub-frame. Anybody try this or know of an easyer way that will give me the same structural integrity. 6" or more would be cool.:cool:

I stand corrected looked up in the chilton last night.

Thanx for the directions, Im gonna try to find that place when the brat is done, Ill let you know so you can bring out the hatch. Just the thought of getting the brat done is driving me nutz:slobber: , all I can think about is subaru, subaru, subaru, beer, subaru. It pisses off my girl friend cuz she cant drive let alone have subaru without a license.

If your new engine is a ea81 than you shouldent have any trouble but if your new engine is an ea82 than you will at least need the fly wheel off of an ea82, and you might be able to reuse your clutch plate. If your new engine is an ea81 than the power gaine from the newer cam will be noticable but there wont be any extra from the before condition from your old engine. If it is an ea82 than there may be a 10horse increase over your stock engine. side note you may have to swap distributors because the 2wd disty is different from the 4wd disty

to time the disty by ear wont always work, there is always the posibility for eror because you cant always remember where the old one was or you dont always see the marks you made the same as you did earlyer in the day, I have found that 9 times out of 10 the chicken scratch marks you made while pulling the disty arent always relavent due to having to mark it a coupl of times so you can see where you marked it or you are on your second disty, etc..etc... I recomend getting a timming light, they really arent that expensive and it will make it so you may pass smog emissions if applicable in your area. If you go with the tune by ear method, if your like me you will probably be wondering when the car may stall or leave you stranded. Good luck with the disty swap and do it right for the best reliability

I just took my 79 single range apart this saturday to reseal it, if you are taking apart the trans all the way down I sugest staring with the tail shaft and work your way to the front with the case bolts last. to remove the tail shaft you will need to pound out the roll pins for the shifter forks and then slide the shifter shafts out, then you may pull the fork out followed buy the tail thaft bolts, from there it shouldent be too hard. to get the stub shafts off the front diff in the trany you will need a special E-bit to get those appart.

Hi Bugaru, How do you get there from Tigard? Or if you have an intersection that is near there maybe I could get mapquest to get me there. the brat is almost done, just have to get the matercylinder back on and finace some tires from les shwab and she will be ready to go.

does anybody in the P town area know of a good place too go bogin thats closer than browns camp? I might have the brat ready to go by the end of the month so im lookin to taker her on her maiden voyage, thats after shes dependable;)

I would definantly go with the 2 core because they are more eficiant than a single core as well as 2 is better for bench racing. I wouldnt trust a JY radiator because in my 84crx I put 5 radiators in in one month due to massive leaks as they dont check them at the yard. @ 50$ a radiator it would have been cheaper to order a new one. Thats just my $0.02:burnout:

he got them off of ebay in the honda section

sorry i was thinking more along the lines of a first gen brat, but i have a friend that just bought some of those projection heaslights for his 82 honda prelude which might fit if you have single headlamps, I will try to get the box from hime this weekend.

I found that if you head on down to the local JY and look for an early 90'S BMW with the composite round lights they will bolt into your stock head-lamp location on a gen-1. (havent done this yet but they are the same dimentions and they do have the replacable insert bulb.)

Thanks for the info got the carb issue fixed, turned out to be the jets were worn out (carb kit from bev napa had one Cheep 30$). still failed deq though for visibale smoke comming from the trany T-case. hopefully this will be gotten to on saturday, shootin for out and in, in one day:burnout:

the choke opens fully when warm and the black smoke only come out when you hit the throttle hard, thanks for the info on price, would i be better off just rebuilding this carb because I want to swap for an ea81 some time within the next few months with the 5-speed of course. also is there a difference between the auto carb and the manuel carb on the ea71, with the electronics or something?:-\

Thanx for the kit number GD, do you know how much the carb costs (or has one in the garadge) (the brat wont be destryed any time soon because I promised my dad that this will be the last car I buy for the next 10 years)

No it isnt burning oil, the smoke is black which means that it is running to rich, I love my brat but I am a Fuel Injection king of guy so I have no idea about carborators, I want to keep the truck for a while but I will let you know when it comes time to get rid of itand get another. ( most likly eill hit severaly trees befor then )

I had an 85 s-10 blazer with the screamin 2.8:D, It developed a lifter tick and some piston slap. I tryed the RESTORE stuff in the silver can and all engine noises went away. that was 100K mi ago.

For all who have experiance with this I have a 79 brat with the 1.6L and it is blowing black smoke off Idle, I swaped the original engine out for an automatic front drive dl wagon engine, Is there any differance in carborators from manual trans 4X4 to auto trans 4X2? any info is greatly appreciated. Thanx Eric

Hi Im new to this and i agree with General Dissorder on this one, but after working in the shop as a student tech for a couple of years, I have found that if you hear a grinding noise upshifting than the synqro has failed and will need to be torn down and rebuilt, but if the noise is only when downshifting than the synqro is on its way out and a chang in lube may help. this is because it is easyer to speed up a gear than it is to slow it down. My information comes from Chrysler text books and Honda America text books. CYA Eric

Hi everyone, Im new to the site but I love the subaru. I bought my 79 brat about 6 months ago and have had alot of fun with it tearing up the back yard (wont pass DEQ) Looking forward to meeting some of you guys around the portland OR area. CYA Eric