v8vega215

moosens, ive got some other gen one stuff if you are interested in comming down and hauling it all off, name your price, i have a 79 brat body with title, also a 78 brat rear clip from the shock mounts to the bumper, and a front core support clip with ac still in it, you will need a trailer and some is at my dads house, if to much to haul i can help for the gas to get it there. mostly i just need it out of the driveway as i have no room left. my consider trading for other stuff too (non soob).

ive got a brat body with good rockers if your interested, i want it out of my driveway

hey, i drove a 78 brat for 4 years, i drove into downtown portland on 26 down and up the sylvan hill. my commute was 45miles one direction. my brat was able to do so in the fast lane, but if i needed to pass someone really fast it wouldnt happen, ever. although i had alot of fun in that truck. mine was stock with the hitachi and thats the only way i would run due to the flat spots in the weber and the lack of gas milage. also as for the extra noise on the freeway you will want either a really loud stereo or ear plugs. but the brat is definatly dooable as a daily.

it was at royal moore. i got it back this afternoon and they convienently cant duplicate the ac belt squeal when cold, poor remote function and when i showed them the bucking and jerking with the compressor on they said that it is normal but they have never seen one this violent before. they did try to reassure me that is is normal. i dont think it is but what can ya do. it only has about 40 miles till the warrenty is up.

just dropped the impreza back off at the dealer this morning. its crazy, the car will act up on me all week long and then drop it off and take the mechanic for a drive and nothing. it bucks and jerks in 1,2, and 3rd with light accell and ac compressor running. heres hoping they will at least give it a good attempt this time.

the 78 is an ea71 1600cc car with a single range 4x or front drive only, (my 79 was a front drive auto). they usualy rust out at the top edge of the front fenders, bottom of front fenders near the doors, at the base of the doors, the rocker panels, some of the frame points underneath, the rear roll pan, the fronts of the floor pans were your feet would go. this is all mostly worst case stuff, my 79 had no rust on it when i bought it for 300. just check it over just like a loyal and you will be fine. motors leak in the same spots and trans leaks in the same sposta as the loyals. if you desire later it is posible to do a direct bolt in of the ea81/81t with the 4or 5spd d/r depending on if you can find the shifters from a 81 brat. good luck.

is that every weekend the group meets at the shell station or is that just every once in a while? i do like wheelin browns camp, bi sadly i havent been able to take my wagon up there yet. i have just gone in my brat and in my wifes blazer. on a side note some dork my wife works with was boasting that he knocked the can opener rock off the creekside at browns camp. (i think it is on archers firebrake). i would like to see this for myself because that rock was the size of a school bus. tread lightly. if anyone wants to get together next weekend for some trails let me know. (the 82 is not lifted but it does have larger tires)

i would love to join for a saturday or sunday romp in the woods. i usualy go to browns camp/lees camp for wheelin, my 82 might not make it back if i go too much further. post when and were, this up comming weekend i am going to do some light wheelin and scouting for hunting season up in the area of hagg lake.

do you still need the diagrams (calli model)? if so i will try to scan some in from my service manuel, its a factory 78/79 1600 manuel.

it may help to keep pounding the cops for results because when my motorcycle was stolen, the thieves left their tool box behind. with their toolbox the cops did find it as part of an aluminum scrap metal ring, they were chopping it up when the cops arrived 2 months later. i wish you the best of luck, i work downtown ptown so i have the plates and description in my pda.

well, i went to the ODF today and got a new map for the tillamook area, in which they said the were not able to find any maps for the astoria region. ODF of forest grove did give me the phone number for astoria branch of ODF (503-325-5451). when i called astoria they said most of the trails or roads that you see on google earth are private land for warehouser and are not open to the public. i also found out that the state and blm land is going into burn season and are cracking down on anyone who decides to blaze there own trail, you will have to stick to the gravel roads and trails that are not gated off. you also need an off highway vehicle permit (also for cars) if you can find a place to get off the road at. these permits last year were $12.

the maps put out by the forest service are rated as far as difficulty or ease. never the less the google maps only show the state/county maintained gravel roads which are the ones that do lead to the trails. ill still try to get the maps anyway on friday because ill have nothing else going on in the afternoon.

i live across the road from the forest service main office and i will head on in there this friday after i get out of the doc office. they should have the maps for the area as well as i do have the latest copy of the tillamook burn area map which shows all the trails off highway 6, (lots of the trails are closed due to the mud slides this year and that is especially true for the highway 30 trails). never the less friday i will get the maps and if copyrights permit is will scan them and add them to the board.

sadly my boss wont let me have an early day on friday so i wont be able to go until saturday.

meeting at hooters in beaverton or the waddles location?

does everybody from portland want to get together at some location before heading over the coast range as to get a huge line of roo's?

Thank you guys very much for chiming on this issue of mine. I had the car at the dealer (Royal Moore Subaru) since wednesday. They called me today at noon and had me come and pick up the car. They only put 2 miles on it. I have had enough with this car. I checked the vacuum today and checked the terminals at the pcm and the ignition and I checked and cleaned and tightened and added star washers to all engine grounds, due to the fact that the dealer is unwilling to look into it any further because the keep coming up with "no problem found." It hasn't seemed to help any. The first time i took it in they did a pcm reflash and told me there was nothing moor that they can do about the idle. It did have a check engine lamp on at one time for an unrelated code of p0457 evap performance, they only cleared this code and told me that my driving style is too aggressive and that is why this code set (not true). I got out the scan tool for the saab 92x (was a saab tech for a few years and kept the software and cables for use on a laptop.) checked the sensor values and found no real issues with sensor data but the car hasn't died today. This dying only happens once in awhile. The vacuum is at 22 inHg at idle. Fuel pressure is ok right now and it has had a fuel pump installed already because the first one gave out, there was a lot of metal in the tank after that. The dying seems to only happen when taking off from a stop when cold or at idle in neutral after warm. I just submitted a claim to subaru of america on friday over the phone. They were closed for the holidays but i left a very long message. Thank you for the link to the oregon lemon law sight. I have already contacted an atterny and im within the boundry for lemon law due to my documentation starting at 6k. I love the car and will hate to see it go but i do need something dependable, ill just go back to driving the 82 wagon.

Hi guys its been a while since i have started a post. I have an 06 impreza 2.5i with 5speed. it is still under warrenty but the dealer cant seem to fix it. it started out with an idle issue which the dealer didnt disclose to me when i bought the car new. then the idle started to stick at 2500rpms and not return to 800 when at stops. took to the dealer about 10times now for that issue, they finally did a whole vehicle reset by touching the battery terminals together for 10sec to discharge all voltage from all systems. that was about 3000 miles ago. Now the car has taken to stalling at stops and not restarting for about 5min. the dealer has the car now but still cant seem to fix it again. subaru of america now has a field engineer on it but the keep telling me that the car is normal and dosent need any repairs. has anyone else gone through this or heard of these cars doing this? Im thinking it might be time to get a buy back on this one.

I will have to post my video, i was driving the powerline access road through the tillamook forest in orgon after it had been raining for about a month strait and the jeeps and fullsize trucks had rutted it out pretty bad, I just hit 6000rpms in first and flew up that hill in my 79brat with worn out motor and trans. I got about 6ft of air at the top and still had enough guts left in the truck to drive it back and fourth to work for about a year afterwords. I also use the brat as my hunting rig because it is the only thing i trust out in the middle of the woods where if i do break down it would be about a 2 day walk out. If you just get some decent tires (snow tires usualy have the best tread) you can go anywere. I recomend trying some motorcycle trails.

I have 3 roos that still run, 79brat with 570k, i have personaly watched it roll over 3 times and the original owner said she rolled it 2 times. have an 82gl wagon with 295k with the original engine, trans, and rear diff. 06 impreza with 31k. I bought the 06 in late december 06 and have only had it 10mon. roos last forever. (I have gotten 3 people at work to buy subes and my father in-law just switched from toy's to sube's.

i have put two of my vega's in storrage and i have found that the best way to keep your car in the same shape as when you leave it you should drain the gas and run the carb dry, make sure you bye a solid plug/cap for the exhaust and the carb to help keep moisture off of the valves and cylinder walls. next you should support the vehical so the tires are off the ground and the suspention is at ride hight to prevent any bushing failure from drooped suspention, the lifting the car is to prevent flat spots in the tire (only on bias plys) or to help from fatige on the side wall. you should drain the oil and change the filter befor storage and after storage ( before you run the gas dry.) you should also disconnect the battery to prevent discharge. i remove the battery from my cars and put some acid nutralizer in the tray to help prevent rust, if you do this then dont reinstall battery till you get back. if you can you should store your car indoors but if you cant you should bue a quality cover designed to work with the climate and weather conditions for your area, you may have to ask around for that info. dont park it under a tree or in any grassy area. over pavement or gravel only, that is a big only or the floor pan and rockers may rust out. that is just some basic stuff that will help out, you may try some other things such as pulling the spark plugs and putting a table spoon of fresh oil in the cylinders and then reistall the plugs. i will see if i can come up with any thing else today.

89 xt6 power everything, blown head gasket, lots of oil leaks, 4wd auto, needs new axles, has 175k showing, has no rust but a few dents about the size of a fist, is it worth buying or is it something i should let hit the auction at the dealer that i work for. they want me to give them 500$ for it. i so far offered them 50$. would anybody want parts if i picked it up?

the contacts are about 50cents for both at your local parts shop. they are very straitforward to replace when you pull the cover off the back of the starter.