v8vega215

the hi-jets at MHCC in gresham, OR have been said to be sold at auction for 20grand, this was for the midget truck with the 4X4 and dump bed.

found the problem last night when the wheel fell off. The nut on the outside of the drum has a tapered washer under it that was calapsed, this caused the spindel shaft to wear and then when it finaly got thin enough it just broke. I chased the wheel through a couple of nice lawns in Lake Oswego(ritzy) they didnt like that to much. suprisingly the car never hit the ground. lucky. Tonight i get to install another spindleand brake drum, I was thinking about doing the rear disc conversion now.

so im driving down the freeway at about 75 in the brat and all of a sudden the car starts wiggling side to side, i back down off the on/off switch and the wiggle goes away. today i had it up on the lift and found that my rear wheel bearings on both sides are loose for the third time in 6 months, I replaced all wheel bearings when i got the truck but they keep comming loose, i have the cotter pins installed and i torqued the nuts to the factory spec's using the factory manual. anybody know what might be wrong.

FHI had sold off most of there stock in isuzu to GM but they still own part of isuzu. so any time you see a rodeo or a trooper you can almost bet the FHI paied for some of the building of that vehical,(i work for the isuzu dealer)

diahatsu midgets are very simmilar in look to a 360 truck, the midget is mostly used as muels for varios buisnesses. mostly saw mills, they also emplyed the 360 truck as a muel in saw mills. anyone in the portland area should stop and harrass the owner of the shell station just off of barber and capital in sw portland, blown motor, no dents or rust, it just sits there, hasnt been moved in 10 years.

I wouldnt worry too much about the noise, in my 79 brat the two fronts shake the car violently every time i let the clutch out and the two rear ones have been clicking and banging around. the car still drives just fine other than that, and i have been putting 3000 miles per month for about 7 months. side note: all 8 boots are missing. too lazy to put my new axles in.

in oregon we have the DEQ testing and my brat passed missing the preheat tube and all the vacuum lines are all pluged off with golf tees, so just drive station to station till you find a guy who happens to be a little bit slow, being nice to the testing guy never hurts either.

on most sube's and most japanese imports the fuel pump is wired in with the alternator circuit or the oil sending unit so those could also cause your fuel pump to not run if they are intermitantly bad.

Nice! Just passed my brat, took two trys but they had to enter the truck in as a non-cat vehical to get it through. (side note) Brat hasnt passed since feb 91.

I just got the brat to pass DEQ today, but the handling problem I think is coming from my bias ply tires, It supriesd me when I swaped for the tires off my wagon and the pull went away. It does need an alignment anyways. I will let you know when she is ready to go get some mud.

forgot to mention that the fuel pump can also cause these complaints, or if your alternator is weak it can cause the fuel pump to cut out.

Im not a carb expert by far, but I would have to say that it is mostlikly to be the carb because that happens to my brat when I have the original carb on, when I swap the one off the spare engin the problem whent away. spark plugs are cheap so I would replace those while I was in there too.

I work mon-fri 8-5 saturdays 8-1, sorry:( I did start driving the brat this last monday, she pulls to the left then she wanders for a while but at low speeds its fine so I am gonna try for the weekend right after the new year, Its the only free time Ive got.

Just took her out on the road today. She handles like crap but she drove me around till it rained.(no wipers) Im going to get tires on the next weekend so I should be ready to go about the first saturday of january. I will give you a PM around that time if your interested.

according to my text book from school a fast fluctuating needle means that you have a intake valve sticking open, and 18 inHg is normal vacuum for any engine (new hondas are different with inHg).

$140 is way too much to pay to have the bearings pressed if the whole thing is out of the car, if it is anything like the ea81 cars. I did my rear bearings myself for less than $30 per side by going down to napa with the part number off the back of the race. If I was going to have someone else press them together I would go down to a machine shop because they could probably do it in less than 20min and for way less than $140. The dealer saying $140 is letting you know that they have never serviced the bearings on an older soob and they dont have a clue what they are doing.

where at? 35 aint to far, if the brat cant make 35 than she cant get me back to work and school.

take a look at mudrats album, he has a picture called the "pickel". this is a lifted gen 1 wagon. Thanx mudrat for the advice.:cool:

when you go to hook up your ammeter make sure that you have less than 10amps being discharged or you will toast your meter if it isnt fused. to do this hook a test lamp up between the batery and the batery cable, when the light dims you know your safe and that all your computors have timed out. be sure not to break connection. if the light dosent dim then you could go about the process as if you had your ammeter in there. Hope that helps

The insides of a diff can be seen in the USRM under "changing your limited slip 3.7 to 3.9", that should be under the trany Icon.

If you read the box of a new clutch it will say that 50k is average use for an aftermarket clutch. Also if your son was trying to roast the tires this can cause the clutch to slip a little causing excessive heat weakening the pressure plate causing the burnt clutch feel. Another thing is if have taken the clutch out if the friction area of the disk is loose than that tells you that it needs replacement.

Thanx John, I dont have long distance though but I do get home tonight at about 8pm so if you are available to talk tonight my or tommorow at 8 then my number is 503-582-8961 Thanx again eric

With the small round lights you could try going to the wrecking yard and picking up some composites out of a 91 or so BMW with the replacable bulbs in which you could get the HID's or so, I have also seen a wagon with the fog lights out of a 70's benz, both of the lights you could get from the JY without a problem, and they should fit fairly easy.

My plans for the truck is to go with an ea81 that I got with the truck as well as the subframe and front suspension, this had the auto trans still bolted up, I also want to go with the 5-speed dual range with a limited slip out back. I was thinking about swaping in the 4.11 ring and pinion out of the trans that is in the truck now. The lift that I want to do would set the truck apart from all the other gen 1s because I have never seen a gen 1 lifted, I would just be the coolest truck that I would ever own. I chose the gen 1 because I think it has better style than the gen 2, so Im not concerned with the cost to much, I dont want to go crazy with it but 2-3k isnt out of the picture. I wouldent mind going a little cheaper but this is suposed to be the last vehical I ever buy. Im going to try to get started on this project when I graduate in the summer so im just looking for sugestions so I can get a good plan going before I spend a lot of money just to change my mind half-way through. Thanx for all the replys:-)

Pluged exaust wont cause a miss/stumble it would be more like hitting a brick wall and wont climb in RPM's under load.