Nuwan

just recieved my shirts, great looking stuff... thanks!

if you have the warning signs that they are going to go soon, and it probably will it makes sense to do them in advance and prevent further damaging the motor or warping the heads my $0.02 good luck:)

they are 15% stiffer over stock.... you probably got really used to the quishy ride your car had before the replacement see what your passengers tell you about the ride

everyone i know says "t-yen", but we're canadian so it probably would be different anyways:drunk:

I did the grounding mod last year on my legacy turbo. I didn't think me idle was at all rough before but it smoothed it out even more so, i also noticed a bit flatter torque curve probably due to better spark.

non-functional except on overseas turbo models, but great if you do your own swap;)

try cleaning it first. My diagnosis is that you aren't driving the car hard enough:D I had that CEL on for the longest time until I did 2.5 hours of non-stop lapping, and its disappeared for the last 2 years. Give'er and it works wonders for your scooby:D

shipping US spec motors to foreign countries because they are sought after? got to go, there's a pig flying by my window:D

has the same issue in my '91 legacy, the problem eventually turned up as a bad 02 sensor. The problem worsened over time until the engine stalled at one point, finally producing a CEL which revealed an 02 sensor problem. Changed the sensor and things are as good as new. so you may want to look into the 02 sensor as well, and check the condition of your spark plugs and make sure they are correctly gapped, good luck:)

should find it here

If you meant electronic valve controller this is an electronic boost controller that has been installed on your car aftermarket. I'm assuming the display (on one of its many possible settings) will display boost (either psi or bar), the knob would adjust the boost level but you may have to hit some of those buttons to change it. I'd be careful with the controller since you don't really know how much boost you'd be running until you figure it out. If you can't get the display to show boost maybe you should pick up a boost gauge as well. The turbo uses oil from the engine and coolant to lubricate its bearings and cool itself. During operation a turbo can spin upwards of 80,000rpm and it doesn't stop once you turn off your car, it will gradually slow down. If you turn the engine off oil stops getting pumped as well as coolant. Convection currents allow cool coolant to cool the turbo long after shutting the car down but the oil doesn't really do the same. This isn't a problem during light normal driving but if you were to come off the highway or take a break after doing a few laps at a track you'd want to allow the car to cool down on it's own by letting the engine idle for a few minutes (ie: providing fresh oil and coolant to the turbo). Use a short "run down time" on the turbo timer when your taking it easy driving, and when you push the car hard add a minute or so as you see fit. It also helps to drive a little slower for the last couple of minutes before parking the car but isn't neccessary now that you have a turbo timer. Hope that helps, sounds like you have got yourself quite the nice car, any pics available? take care

whoops, i mixed things up by accident, thanks for catching that vrg3:)

hi, seems like you've got the right things covered with the timing belt change. You could also do oil and water pump at the same time but i think you should save that till 200,000kms. Never done the "valve adjustment" on any of my cars so i'm not sure if that is neccessary. Just timing belt, tensioner and seals seems right. Your fuel door issue seems to be the spring on the door hinge has come loose or is non-existant. Either that or something is slightly out of place in there causing some binding/rubbing. In regards to the corroded terminal on the "coil pack" i'd try sealing the plug wire to the terminal with something waterproof, either a little silicone on the outside or tape of some sort. I've never seen them rust like that before so it may need to be replaced sometime. I dunno if you can replace just the one terminal contact but the entire coil pack can be pricey unless you get one in a yard for cheap. Good luck, and nice to see another canuck on the boards:D Where exactly are you located?

that's pretty wierd, due to the inconsistency of the problem i'd say it was electrical and probably your temp sensor. However if you are getting cold air through the vents when set on hot on occasion i'd say you have air trapped inside the system somewhere. Also i'd check your thermostat and rad cap while your in there.