SevenSisters

Wow Iceland, what a great place for a Subaru. Try the internet looking for a Bendix, etc. part number for each of the two vehicles. See if they match. My guess would be that they are the same. Good luck.

Hitch hiking on cookie's suggestion, Put the radiator cap on the radiator. Make up a little manifold with a gauge and hose that will screw into the radiator bleed hole. Any other port or removed sensor hole in the cooling system will also work Pressurize the cooling system with a bicycle pump 'till the cap pops and note the pressure in the gauge.

It wouldn't surprise me if they fixed this potential safety defect for free. Check with the dealer.

On first generation legacies. there is an ABS diagnostic LED under the passenger seat. Don't know if it's applicable to later models. Might help isolate the source.

The gap between the tone wheel and sensor may have changed, triggering a fault light.

Josh, Thanks for the suggestion. I tried power braking with no whine, just some roughness. If anyone can add to a solution, please jump in.

Guys, I'm encountering a transmission or differential whine on a '91 auto Legacy. My limited experience would suggest a bearing. Would anyone that's had thier diff/trans out venture an estimate on how big a job it is to get the differential out once the axle stubs are removed? Any special tools, etc? Thanks

I’m getting a loud whine from the front of the ’91 Auto Legacy. It is present always and changes pitch on acceleration and deceleration. It is present if I shift into neutral at speed and coast. Revving the engine in neutral does not change the sound. It does not change if I make turns. It seems very load dependent. When the load changes, like at the top of a hill, it will “squawk” if that’s the right term. I changed the front differential oil with no change in sound. There was a little pile of fuzz on the magnet. ATF fluid looks OK. No torn boots. Going under it tomorrow to see if there is anything else obvious. What do you guys (and gals) think? How much trouble am I in?

I believe you can back off the adjuster screw through a slot in the backing plate. Since you've cooked the bearing grease, expect a "snow tire" noise to develope in the rear. Then it's time for a new bearing.

Thanks! I'll try to get it back like it was.

Let me hitch-hike on this thread. My IAC has slots in the electrical cover where the phillips screws go in for some kind of adjustment. What's this all about?

Welcome to the board. Do you have Pirelli tires? (just a joke). I would rotate from front to back to see if that makes a difference (out of round, bent rim, not torqued right).

Looks like rubber. Did you tangle with a semi?

14.5 volts output sounds good to me unless I'm missing something. Start pulling fuses to try to locate the drain. To be sure, have the alternator and battery checked. I had fits over a battery I thought was good. How old is it? Original? Get a new one. A bad battery can screw up a good alternator.

My only caveat would be to rinse after the engine has cooled down to reduce thermal shock of the sensors. WD-40 probably will break down some rubber components, but not nitrile or other under hood materials. Just don't soak 'em in the stuff. The kerosene based engine cleaners have not hurt my old 'ru and it smells great for a few days.

Cabin air filter? Didn't have'em in '91. It may sound good after I clean a half inch of dust and dirt off my dash, but this sounds like another dealer service opportunity. How much is a Purolator air filter that will go 30-40K and suck in millions of cubic feet (cubic litres whatever) of air during it's lifetime? Buy a screw driver and a furnace filter. Ya a furnace filer, that's the ticket. I'll have to remember that one, Thanks, #19!

All good points. Next time you see him (her), ask what their gross profit is on parts and service. I think a lot of members would be interested. Thanks.

The reason I asked where you were from is because some northern, salt infested areas may benefit from stainless. Let us know what you find and how much it was. I still don't think 5 years is bad for a conventional system. I wish my '91 had stainless fenders.

Stainless sounds expensive. If you went 80K on the original check out Autozone or some other aftermarket supplier for a welded unit and save some bucks. What city on earth are you from?

Find the thermoswitch (one for ecu), unplug it, jump the two pins on the connector, and see if the fan starts.

I'd guess that K&N filters are about as effective in boosting performance as fuzzy dice. Can you reinstall the OE components, clear the computer, and see if that helps?

20K? Buy a new Legacy sedan.

Some cars need to have the hub pulled to remove "captive" rotors. Sure ain't that way on a '91. Doubt if it's like that on yours. A nice setup Subaru has. Find a better mechanic (more honest). Just have to remove the caliper. About 10 mins. work max. As far as rotors, I never had a problem with Autozone/ Advance Chinese rotors, but they do seem to wear fast. All the better for rustbelt conditions to prevent pitting.

OK, Two (2) up!

Oil is oil. Just make sure it meets or exceeds the classification rating for your car and is the recommended weight. Boy I'm gonna hear about this.