SevenSisters

If the tire was just plugged, save the receipt so your wife can sue the dealer after you have a blow out. Any tire repair should involve demounting to inspect for damage and a proper patch in addition to a plug to seal water from rusting the belts. If it was done right, it won't hurt to run it on the front, assuming you didn't run it flat for any time.

1. You should have a full size spare to rotate, but that's another thread. 2. Lug nut torque is important so don't let someone use an impact wrench to tighten the nuts. 3. Check your owners manual for the proper rotation pattern and make sure they follow it. 4. If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools (Torque wrench, sockets, jack, stands), this is an easy job that will allow you to look at the brake condition and suspension. Newspaper should be full of rotation ads. Maybe $30-40??

I wasn't trying to discourage you, just saying you need to have the right tools and procedures before tearing into something as important as wheel bearings. Only way to learn is to have at it. Good luck with what ever you try next.

The rebuilts are the way to go. A lot less swearing and screwing around. I've rebuilt calipers many years ago and usually needed to buy an expensive new piston and seals. Bought a hone to try and get a good finish on the bore too. Almost cost what the rebuilt would have been, but I can see not wanting to put a lot into a '90. Add up all the parts (seals, pins, etc) and see what you think, I may be wrong depending on the condition of the caliper, but you don't know 'till you pull it apart.

Run 'em for another 100K, but next time get OE or NGK. I can't see how low is bad. Set your meter to a higher scale and see if you get a different reading.

Only thing better than a dog in an ad is a dog and a bass boat. The viscosity additives may be a little but if you're not having burning problems, I skip it. BTW, Quaker State has a special "import" Dexron ATF. I almost fell for it.

The little crimp can't line up at the same place if you use a new nut like you're supposed to. Pound out the old bearing. Buy new bearings, seals, nut, and a torque wrench. You'll be good to go if you lube it properly.

Check your CV boots. Grease on hot engine or exhaust = burnt grease/wax smell.

"Only 9 years old". I like how some of you guys with new cars think. I haven't had the problem with the '91. Just the little plastic lever broke. You didn't say how they failed though. Were the cables rusted, just snapped,etc?

Good advice for those with air suspensions. Yea, I'm thinking of the '90s. Would still like to be able to buy a car without any frills to wrong.

Cougar has excellent advice, but if you're at the mercy of a dealer with a boat payment, you're in trouble. All the items Cougar suggested are simple. Buy some tools. All you need is a Phillips screw driver, spark plug wrench, a compression gauge, and the garage. I can see the last item being cost prohibitive. Got a friend with one?

If I had a leaking suspension and nothing to lose, I might try that route, but I wouldn't buy one to try it out on. Of course, you could always convert if it doesn't work. I can tell you're itching to by that car. Never buy a new car with air suspension!

The metal filings can give false abs signals and trigger the abs light. Sorry, I don't think it has anything to do with the transmission and torque bind. Do a search on torque bind and try the fluid replacement first. Good luck.

A couple ways to do it: Remove the knuckle and have a shop press out and replace the bearing and then have an alignment. Spend $300 or so on the tools (Hubtamer). See if you can rent the tool. See if someone responds that bought the less expensive Harbor Freight bearing tools. Not sure if they will work alone. A lot of board members have done this and may be able to offer additional help. So far I've only needed to to a rear.

Most, if not all, of the spark plugs I've ever put in have a metal gasket and no penetrant will ever get past it to the treads. Remove them on a hot engine and use some anti-sieze like ballitch suggested when you replace them.

Buy a wheel and spare tire and rotate them with the rest. You will always have the proper size (circumference) spare if you need it.

The last guy probably didn't torque the crank nut correctly. This is a known issue with the engine. Some bad torque specs floating around too. Call the machine shop and see what they prefer. I assume the fans and radiator will have to come out to give them room to work. Might save some money by having it ready for them. Call a friend with a pick-up to tow you for a six pack.

Not exactly sure how the new cars with OBDII work, but could the sensor be reporting some out of range condition caused by some other system, eg fuel or cat? If not, could be a bad ECU or connection.

Good tip. Doesn't surprise me though. Subaru is GM.

OK, unless I missed it, no one has told you to check that the FWD fuse has not been put in and there is no binding when making tight circles. The old screwed up tranny bit. Wheel bearings are a constant complaint, but the 2.2 is generally a sound performer. Fuel senders seem to go frequently too plus a lot of trim crap like visors.

The nitrogen theory is it won't diffuse (leak) through the innerliner as fast and it doesn't contain moisture so the pressure is more consistant at different temperatures. Hence more even treadwear etc. In my opinion, it's a profit enhancement product. My tires arready have about 74% nitrogen in them and I fill them for free at the gas station.

I looked at mine and have no idea. If I had to guess, I'd say it is a reinforced portion of the plastic side panel to accept a sensor or transmission cooling line for another car make. The hex may just be a spru from the molding process.

A couple more Subaru weak spots. I fixed my fuel sending unit by punching the trip odometer every time I fill up. As far as the lenses go, some people swear by cleaning with brake fluid. Try a couple of board searches. There's a lot of info out their.

I just have a little, basic hand pump. I connect some hose and wrap one of the adapters with enough masking tape to make it seal into the radiator. It would help to have a litle reservoir in line so you don't pump the fluid into the pump. I think the new ones come with one. Hope this helps.

My '91 does it a little, but it's not a new car like yours. I've learned to let it pump-up before accerating. I can dig up the spec time on a '91 later this week if it helps. Is it common? I guess, so are Subaru head gasket problems. If it's under warranty I would make sure it's noted and fixed. Subaru will probably "tell" you is normal, but it is an issue covered in the factory manuals. I believe there are some fixes posted on this board for some of the causes in older transmissions.