SevenSisters

I recall posts about a $3 dollar or something tube that fails. Search posttings by Legacy777 to see if they match your description.

If the set up is like on a '91, the calipers aren't moving. Grease up the pins. You don't need legal action for a set of $64 pads. Which dealer in Ohio? I avoid them but may have to go someday.

If the "tire" noise continues in the rear after you rotate the tires, consider it a wheel bearing about to go.

Probably failed under acceleration during a side street turn or maybe a Rockford 180. It's a '90. My '91 has had both sides replaced. Chalk it up to old age and be glad you didn't kill your friend. I would have expected the symptoms you described. Some people smell burning grease that gets spun up onto the hot exhaust or engine due to a cracked boot. It's a '90. Anything else could be wrong with the front end, but probably not.

Sounds like a bad connection. Check and Re-crimp the "wires near the O2 lead".Do you know which wires (where they go to) they were?

Do you want to sound like an import tuner?

I don't like the new look but could get by it if they make an inexpensive, relaible vehicle. I'm tired of all the wheel bearing, torque bind, and head gasket issues I've read about in recent models. Are the new cars designed to be simple and reliable or is Subaru loading up the options and going "high" style to lure a new demographic at the expense of long time, faithful Subaru owners?

The new Subaru signature grill? My mother said if you can't say anything nice, don't say it. On the bright side, this is an aftermarket grill manufacturer's dream car.

Drive it onto some grass, wet the grass down, and tie the 'ru to a tree. Take up any slack and give it a little gas. You'll be able to see if two wheels turn. Dirt or some other slippery surface may work too.

People seen to rave about the GY Triple Tread but they are directional and don't fit my "rotate five tires" philosophy. I have all season Regatta 2's because Consumer's Reports rated them very well for snow traction a few years ago. Alright in other catagories too, but not a performance tire. I think they were S speed rated and not H like OE. If your wife likes the BS tires, get them. At least you can drive the car and see if you like them before you buy them for your car.

Still can't attach, but they're in the gallery.

? OK. I opened "post reply", added the text, went to "manage attachments", the to "browse", put two .jpg files into the boxes and hit "upload". If someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong, I'll try again.

I hope this works: There is a 3/4" hole in the thick section with a bearing in it so the forcing screw can rotate without too much friction. If there are not two attachments, Ill try again.

This is the point where I used the Hubtamer to pull the hub out of the bearing. As I recall, I used an adapter that pushed on the hub part that went through the bearing center and the inner bearing race. Once the hub was out, there is a clip that is removed and then the bearing is pulled out the same way. The Endwrench article shows this procedure with Subaru tools. It could also be the step where you take the housing and all to someone that has a press and they press the hub, then the bearing out. KEY POINT: When you put the bearing in, only put pressure on the outer race! When you push in the hub, apply pressure only to the inner race! If you don't you can screw up the bearing by putting force on the tapered rollers.

Do you have Michelins? Tread separation? Try rotating the tires. See it the sound moves. Look for buldges. Don't go faster than 25 untill you fix this.

I think the horn is normal and intended to wake up your neighbors. Might be able to find a manual on the Subaru site. Does the clicking sound interval increase with speed, ie get longer, or does it speed up, get quicker with speed? By the way, when you find your parking lights won't turn off, it's because of the switch on the steering column. Welcome to the board.

I assume you are trying to separate the hub from the axle. I trust you took off the axle nut. If you did, a little heat may help. You're replacing the bearings anyhow. Also a lot of penetrant on the splines. As far as the grease goes, Subaru has had a lot of problems with bearings and has supplied different parts with and without grease. The Subaru Endwrench site has good directions for the current bearings. I did not re-lube mine per their instructions. No problems yet, but it can't hurt to clean and re-pack as long as you don't apply too much grease when you do. Too much grease is bad according to a tapered bearing manufacturer I talked to. Good luck and you need a torque wrench to put things bach together.

A little Permatex helps where there may not be a perfect mating surface, eg. some corrosion, baked on dirt you should have removed, a little scatch or ding you created when you took it apart, etc. I don't use it on my oil plug gasket, but like several people have said, it's cheap insurance for many other sealing needs, but don't go overboard. It's not for head gaskets or exhaust gaskets. Most other uses are OK, but the type you use has to have fluid resistance to what you are trying to seal. Gas or oil or coolant or vacuum or whatever.

It's good to know YOU can find out on Subaru.com, but little KELLY had to check with a colleague. How's that for customer service. Maybe she doesn't have a mouse.

The clicking sound may be the pads moving around if it only happens once when you apply the brakes. No problem but maybe annoying. If it's a rythmic clicking it's something different. Where is this yellowish corrosion? DO NOT LUBRICATE THE PADS OR ROTORS! Yes a friend admitted he did it when he was a kid. He's still alive and still dumb as a rock. The lubrication for your brakes includes the sliding pins of the caliper and sparingly applied lube to metal to metal contact surfaces of the brake pad backing and caliper. A high temperature brake grease is used. Nothing else.

I'm someplace in the middle. About every 30K, I drained what was in the pan and topped it off with fresh fluid. My last time, at about 130K, I pulled off one of the tranny cooler lines to the radiator and did a self flush, at least I think I did. At any rate, don't panic. Check your owners manual. I think the dealer has a boat payment due. People claim to leave it alone on an old car that's never had the fluid changed. You have a young car and can, probably should change at least half of it relatively soon. Consider changing the external filter too.

Sad but true. Subaru = Forrester = Chevy = GM = Vega = Citation = Cimmaron = Nova = Corolla = Toyota = SAAB = WRX. Where will it end? I could go on all day. It's world market folks. Don't be fooled by the badge. There will be good cars and there will be bad cars. Lets just hope Subaru quality does not continue to slip even further under GM influence. It's your job to find a good car, not just buy a badge. Look at Consumer's Reports reliability ratings before you by any car if your looking for reliability. I always laugh at the Cadillac buyers that bought the Cimmaron. It had the Cadillac badge, but was a platform adopted by Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, and Cadillac and was a piece of crap. I suspect Cadillac wanted a entry level Caddy. Made on the same line by the UAW and engineered by cost conscious GM engineers. I wonder how many sales it ultimatly cost them?

Dittos on the belts being too loose. Keep in mind though, if you tighten them too much, you may encounter bearing problems later. Don't go overboard.

If it only happens when you start or stop, it could be as simple as a missing dounut and the exhaust system banging around.

When working on ABS, or really any brake system, use the brake bleeder screw to expell fluid when pushing back the caliper pistons. Don't let the system go dry and get air in the ABS pump. Other than that, no problems and if you do screw up, someone can still fix it.