rlsimpso

I had a similar leak on my 98 Legacy GT that turned out the be the rear main seal. I got a factory manual from books4cars.com . I did a search a found a few for the 2000 Legacy and Outback. Hope this link works: http://www.books4cars.com/result2.htm?findyear=2000&imageField2.x=33&imageField2.y=5 The site is pretty easy if it doesn't. I'll be changing the thermostat out in the morning, if it doesn't rain. I'll take a look and see if there is anything obviously in the way on the pan. Mine is a 98 DOHC EJ25, but it should be pretty similar. Rob

If you don't like the laptop based scanners, I recommend the actron cp9145. http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16143 I got kit that does off amazon for about $280 with shipping. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020BM32/qid=1152410449/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/103-0487914-3921449?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=15684181 My only complaint is that it is not backlit, so reading while driving in the dark is problematic. Other then that I don't have any complaints.

I just broke the same piece. The dealer (yes a dealer, I know) I went to knew exactly what I needed. $5 at Hodges. It is plastic. Parts guy said the technicains break them all the time. The trick is to loosen the bolt on the pulley and then move the adjuster.

BigMattyD, you should look at a Sambar. http://www.subaru.co.jp/sambar/index.html You want a Sambar Dias Wagon Super Charger. http://www.subaru.co.jp/sambar/diaswagon/lineup/01/index.html My Japanese is no-existant, so try http://babelfish.altavista.com/. Apparently you can blow smoothly in all the rotary limits and rise, adopting 4 cylinder EGI engines which on the various roads it can run in. With the adoption and the like of multipoint injection, also fuel economy actualizes low. I am not sure if they are available outside of Japan.

How about if it has selectable 4WD, it is old school, and always on it is new school? D/R is another matter. That makes my 86 BRAT old school and my 98 Leagcy GT new school. What about the loyale? They were made until 92-93, I believe. EA's, right - so old school? I am sure there are exception that would have to be made for FWD only Justies, not to pick on those guys. They are no time 4WD:grin: Maybe there should also be a distinction between new school with OBDII and pre-OBDII. Even better, if the dealer can still get parts for it, its new. If the car is older then the techincian working on it, it is old school.

Be sure to check the rotors for thickness. The minimum thickness should be stamped on the edge. If they are too thin they could crack. If you don't have them turned you should probably be able to get a few sets of pads out of them. I am on the second set of pads on my brembos and they are still good.

Wait another year or two and pick up a second hand legacy GT. The 05's seem to be going for $20K-22K. Give them another year and they should be down to $15K. Get one with a manual and call it a day.

My bad... I usually just oogle the turbo and the intercooler under the wrx hood, so I haven't noticed much else. My hood scoop is for cooling the brake booster:grin: Thanks for the info.

I used the have a problem with mice nesting in my CB750's air box. I would start it up in the spring and it would run for a few minutes and then stall. No restart. Pull the plugs and they would be completely fouled. What fun pulling the air box and cleaning the boots out. The pepper thing works. I had bird that kept trying to nest on one of the lights on my garage. Every morning for a week I knocked the nest down and every night when I got home the nest was back. Covered the light and garage with cayenne pepper. I watched the bird try to land on it and jump off. No more nest.

I am guessing you have a manual trans (tranny oil) right. The problem you describe sounds like what mine did when the knock sensor was failing, but only the moving part. I didn't have any vibration issues, and the MIL came on with a knock sensor error. I've got 160K on the original mounts with no problems. Could it be a misfire? I had a loose plug wire on my GL that caused that sort of problem. Are the new wires Bosch by any chance? I have had problems with those in the past.

You may also need to replace the computer. I think they are different between manual and auto. I have only worked with/own manual subarus, so somebody correct me if i'm wrong. Found one on ebay that should work http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Legacy-ECU-engine-computer-ECM-GT-94-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33596QQitemZ8077178141QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW You may also need to replace the wiring harness, although I think they are the same.

03 wrx 5 speed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-5-Speed-Transmission-36k_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33733QQitemZ8076878214QQrdZ1 It should fit:)

Are you planning on doing the work yourself, or pay some one? I find Ebay is a good place to look for prices on parts. Labor for this sort of project could be very expensive. You may be better off looking for a manual Legacy, although they can be hard to find, compared to finding automatic Legacies.

I am also getting the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction error on my 98 Legacy GT. I have cleared it several times. It seems to come back after 2-3 weeks. I think it may be related to the hole I developed in my exhaust. I expect there may not be enough back pressure. Have you check the EGR solenoid? It is located on the back of the intake runner closest to the driver on mine. I think it is similar on the WRX. It is vacuum solenoid the moves the plunger up and down. You should be able to push it with your fingers. It will have some resistance, but should be smooth. Make sure it moves all the way it and doesn't bind or drag. If it is sticking it could be causing the code. I started getting misfire codes when my knock sensor went. Are you getting anything other then that one? Rob

1stsubaruparts.com has them listed for about $95US for the 00-03 Outback. I would guess the $70US ones are Bosch. O2 sensor is most most likely the cause of the low cat error

What is the year and milage? I had a similar problem this spring. A/C on and no cold air. I put one can (134) in and it started blowing cool, but not cold. Half way through the second can and it got nice and cold. I have done this on several cars and have not have had a problem. If you have an R12 system, you can convert it, but it may not work as due the the difference in the refrigerant. I did the convernsion on my 89 Mitsubishi Van and it worked fine for 4 years, until the compressor failed. I am not sure if the problem was the conversion, or the 200,000 miles on it. I found the cheap guages that come on the refill canisters are useless. Be sure to get a can that has some oil in it as well, if you have a lot of miles as it may have leaked out. If it gets hot again soon, you probably have a leak. BTW: Did you check that the damper is moving? The air may be working, but it could be stuck on the hot side. I have not had this problem with a Subaru, but I know it happens.

The work was done at Suburban Subaru in Troy. These are the same people that would not honor the warranty, saying head gaskets are not internal parts. Needless to say, I will never deal with them again. I got the quote for the belt replacement from Hodges. I have heard mixed reviews about them. I have been less then impressed the few times I have been in there. They did have the thermostat gasket to replace the one that had been mangled by Suburban, so they can't be all bad. Both my parents go to Dywer and Sons, but they live in West Bloomfield, so it is a five minute drive for them. I only let others do work on my cars if it something I don't have the tools/time to do myself. Rob

All the frameless bimmers do that I believe. My friend had a new mini did that. The roof on the mini comes down lower then the seal. If it doesn't open, the glass hits the bottom of the roof. Big suprise, the module that controlled it went out and the glass smacked in to the roof each time the drivers door is opened. Funny story, he got it fixed and then backed into his garage door and broke the glass. I told him to buy a WRX, but what do I know.

Heating up the gear oil in a pot of boiling water helps it flow on the refill. The water helps to keep it from getting too hot and melting the bottle. Rob

I did a gear oil change in December. I used a hair drier to heat mine up. It helped blow the oil out as well. Heating the oil in boiling water helps in flow much better when you go to refill it. Rob

I had the clear the code with the scan tool to get mine to go off. I tried disconnecting the battery, but must have not waited long enough. I read somewhere that the code clear after 40 starts without a return. I can't find that now of course. Rob

It is raining like crazy in Detroit today and no problems, so I would say it is fixed. The water pump slipping that is. Considering how many tried it took to get all the timing marks lined up, I would be suprised if anyone would forget to pull the pin. I turned the engine over several times by hand to make sure everything was lined up and nothing hitting. You can see the location the pin the whole time you have the timing cover off. Mine even has a nice red inspection mark too. I am guessing the tensioner should be fine, considering it hasn't been doing much. Rob

I agree that the code reader may be at fault. I tried a cheap one friend has for his GM car, and it didn't work. I recently purchased an Actron code reader. I have used the CP9135 and the CP9145 and can attest that thet both work with my 98 Legacy. They are supposed to work with all the OBDII Subs. I got the CP9150 kit, which is a CP9145 and the leads to do lots of OBDI cars, most GM, Ford, Chrysler, and a few others. There is no mention in the documentation if it works with older Subarus. The CP9145 is nice because it can give sensor re-outs too. I was able to determine that my TPS was not adjusted correctly. I was 0% at 1000 rpm with the throttle open and showing 92% and WOT. Not so good. I would recommend getting one if you do a lot of work yourself. Rob

My pictures aren't showing up. I thought it was 20 posts and then you could post images? Nevermind, stupid mistake. I should know about that one, considering I admin a server that runs this same BB.

Quick back story: I had the head gaskets replaced on the 98 Legacy GT at about 85K miles at the dealer where I bought the car. I had the clutch and timing belt replaced at the same time, since the engine was out. Now I have about 160K miles on it, so I decided to replace the timing belt on Sunday among other things. What a fun job that it. Keeping four cams lined up is a joy. Anyway, on dissamebly I found something interesting. The retainer pin in the belt tensioner was still in place. It had pulled out of one of the holes, but basically not putting any tension on the pulley. Apparently the mechanic at the dealer forgot to take the pin out, so I had been driving 80K miles with a loose timing belt. This explains the problems I had having the hesitation. It also would explain why the back of the timing belt was so glazed. This is the same car that a few months earlier I discovered the lower timing cover was loose and letting water in. I am pretty sure this was causing the water pump to slip when I hit puddles, resulting in the temp gauge going almost all the way up in the rain. I put the pin in correctly for reinstallation. Yes, I DID remember to remove it. I removed it three times actually, because it took that many tries to get the timing marks lined up. The drives side bank must be right at full open on the valves, because a slight touch and the sprockets would spin around, quite violently, as my fingers can attest. I see why they wanted $500 for the job, although I still think that is a bit much. I wonder what else could be wrong. The low speed hesitation is gone, btw.