rlsimpso

These guys put Subaru engines in Vanagons: http://www.smallcar.com/ These guys specialize in rebuilding Subaru engines and build them for aircraft applications. They could probably help with buying and selling http://www.ccrengines.com/ Rob

1986 BRAT 1800 GL 4 speed D/R, without the rear seats from the factory How acurate of the oil pressure guage? On the highway at 65-75 it reads almost all the way up, about 75. It has been like that since I got it last summer. I guage does go up and down with engine speed. It doesn't seem to change with 30 or 40 weight oil either. Is this normal, or should I be doing something about it? I am considering getting another subaru of this vintage due to the problems I've had with me Legacy. The EA engines seem to be much better then the EJ series.

For those that want to see what a Horizon looks covered in stickers.

Try books4cars.com http://www.books4cars.com/result1.htm?imageField.x=116&imageField.y=97&findmake=Subaru Although not entirely applicable, I got the shop manual for my 98 Legacy from them. I was able to find manuals for several newer subarus there.

My friend ran Rotella in his diesel tow trucks. It is really more for diesels. Gasoline engines don't need soot control. It is designed for turbo applications, so it probably can't hurt anything. We did put it in a dodge horizon that we built for a radio station promotion. It helped quite the valve train considerable. Then the car got covered in bumper stickers. I still say Mobil 1 synthetic over all is the best.

It's not clutter. Japanese cars are detailed, ie: Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT AWD ABS all on the back. Any questions? Yeah, is that a Nissan? Read the back:)

Find out the car will be sanded to the metal or just scuffed. Also ask what kind of primer is being used. An epoxy based primer will be your best bet. I would expect they will sand it down for the price. You should also ask if they sand the primer with a guide coat. The better the primer is prepared the better the top coat finish will be. I would go for two coats of clear and have it wet sanded and polished if the cost is not too high.

The tire pressure monitors I have seen strap to the wheels or attach to the valve stem inside the wheel. I also found one that goes on in place of the valve stem caps. http://www.tirepressuremonitor.com/details.htm This is what new subs have http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiremonitor.html They have battery powered pressure sensors and transmitters. There seem to be two basic types. One only transmits a signal when the pressure drops below some preset value. The other output the pressure contantly. I would expect wheel speed changes to make traction control come on before doing anything for tire pressure. Wheel speed, steering angle, throttle position, engin speed, roll senors, yaw sensors, and probably other more expensive sensors are used to determine if there is a loss in traction. The tire would need to be close to flat before it would make a signifcant difference in rotational speed.

I've been in MI for too long. I think I can remember what a hill is:) They just got some out in Colorado I hear. I-94 is almost dead flat through MI in most places. The Extrex (silver one) I have used does should elevation. I assume it is doing some calculations. Of course you know what assuming does.

This one is on NJ, thats kinda close: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-Subaru-SVX-LSi-Coupe-2D-150k-miles-green_W0QQitemZ270005906957QQihZ017QQcategoryZ31871QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Next closest is Florida:-\

Hmm... new roof or put one of these in my Legacy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-EJ20-TWIN-TURBO-ENGINE-JDM-DUNE-BUGGY-EJ20TT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ007QQitemZ170004102732QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Damn, deprecation is a ***************.

Looks like you may have already. City: 39.658193 -79.964263

Try a GPS. I found those "your speed is" signs are off by 1-3 mph some times. I also like the time slips you get on the Ohio Tollway. I hope they never look at them, or I would be getting some tickets:)

I am looking in to the same thing for my GT. Let me know if you get anywhere with that.

That sounds like the same problem I had on a GL when the clutch was replaced. I didn't have any clutch smoke, as the 2BL GL only made about 16 hp. The shop didn't adjust the hill holder properly and it would get stuck on level ground. I took it back, got it adjusted, worked fine for another 100K miles. Go back and complain louder where other people can hear you. I find it works best have the car get stuck blocking the service bay:brow:

Interesting. I wonder it has any effect on rings or scratches in the cylinder walls.

mmmm....beer....

It is more like one cocktail is how many beers.

Stop leak in the combustion chamber? That seems like it would get blown out the exhaust long before it could be forced in to the gap in the head gasket? Is there an obvious way to determine where the gasket has failed?

Yes, I ran Modil 1 synthetic 15W-50. It supposed to be compatible with non-synthetic oil. This is a long story, but I will be brief. I kinda did a flush when the idiot at the oil change place didn't do a good job putting a filter on and 4 quarts of oil sprayed all over the inside of the engine bay. I decided no more idiots working on my cars. I am stupid enough to do it myself:) . I put the money saved by doing the changes myself in to better (presumably) oil. Mitsu's have problems with valve guide wear and they start to burn a lot of oil. The burning oil makes nice blue smoke and an odor. The "flush": I started out with Mobil 1 5W-30 and all was well, no smoke. The oil consumption was still high, 1 quart every other tank of gas, about 500 miles. I then went to 10W-30 thinking it would do better. Slightly but not much. All the while I added about 10 quarts in addition to the 5 at each change. On the third change I went to 15W-50. The oil compsution went to about 1 quart every 1000-1500 miles. I ran it like that until I replaced the head. Now I am back to 5W-30 Modil 1 and all is well. Besides the lack of smoke, the biggest difference I noticed was the change in cold morning starting. The started worked much less to turn it over and consequently it started faster. Even with the 15W-50 it had not trouble. I also changed the gear oil out for synthetic and cold trans shifts are much better. I have run Mobil 1 in my Legacy and BRAT since I got them and have no problems.

All I can think is that the speedo would read low because larger diameter tires would be rolling more slowly at the same speed. If you do go with bigger wheels make sure the offset is such that the tires won't rub. I tried to put 215's on in place of the 205's on my stock Legacy wheels and the rears rubbed on the struts when the suspension compressed. As stated if you stay close to the stock diameter and width you should be fine. It should be possible to reprogram to computer to account for the difference, but I am not sure how:confused:

Are you using synthetic oil? I ran 15-50 for serveral years (about 70000 miles) in my Mitsubishi when it started drinking 5-30. I found synthetic oil did not affect the performance at all, whereas the dino oil did. Just my 2 cents.

Along with the venting, has anyone had this o-ring procedure done? http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/headgasket/headgasket.html Unless I missed it, there is no suggestion of what to use for the o-ring itself. One illustration suggests using .041" diameter wire. I guess that would work. This may be overkill, but again, at least I can say I tried.

Okay, I read all the posts listed here and still have a question: Has anyone tried this one US spec phase I ej25? Does anyone have any pictures? I think I know what a swirl pot is now, and I don't have one. I would assume it should be done with the pipe off the car to keep metal bits out of the engine. I ask because I just clicked over 160,000 and think my HGs are going again:mad: . That is one set every 80 miles. I am trying to decide if it is worth replacing them, or just replace the entire car. If I do replace them, I want to do whatever else I can to ensure they don't fail again. Even if it doesn't work, at least I can say i tried. I really would like to get a few more years out of this car. BTW: I don't drive around a full throttle for hours at a time, although I would like to:) .

Is it actual climate control? I would guess there are a bunch of servos and blend air motors that need to be installed. I might be worth looking in to though. As for resizing images, try Irfanview (assuming windows:) ). http://www.irfanview.com/ It's free and does a lot more then just resizing. I use it in all my labs. Just remember the guy that wrote it is in Europe, so all the defaults are metric.