rlsimpso

How many miles does it have? I had a similar problem with my 98 Legacy GT at about 100K miles, althought not as bad as you describe. There is procedure for cleaning the idle bypass that involves spraying a can of throttle body cleaner down the idle intake hose. The car will run rough and smoke while the cleaner is burned off. The hose is located on the bottom of the air itake pipe the runs from the airflow sensor to the airbox that should be an intercooler, but isn't. I also adjusted the idle control solenoid a bit, but that was more due to my impatients waiting for the cleaner to go through, then to correct the problem. It has been fine for 50K miles since then. I can scan the pages for the shop manual if that would help. Rob

If she doesn't want a wagon/hatch, what about a Baja? They seem to go fairly cheap second hand. Just like an OB, but the a big open truck, let say.

My 98 Legacy GT has developed a free flowing exhaust, all by its self. Althought I do like to hear the sound, not quite as a loud as it has become. I haven't tried to find the break yet, so I may able to get away with just muffler. I am looking for recommendations for a replacement system. I have a Greddy on my 93 PGT, but it drowns a bit on the freeway at 75. I is also a bit rice, but at least it fits properly, and it is not a fart can. Rob

I am looking to add another older Subaru to my garage. I have an 86 BRAT and a 98 Legacy GT. I am considering another early-mid 80's GL wagon with dual range. Old Subarus are very scarse here in MI. It seems like California, Washington, Oregon, Colorado, and Vermont have the most. Can any one suggest a good place to look in those areas? Ebay is not so good for older Sub's, unless you want a 360 (which I do, but that is a different forum). Autotrader doesn't go old enough last I check. Rob

Something else to condider is the seats in OB up to the 05's fold flat with the seat bottom flipping up. The new ones, the seat backs are the only part the folds. With that said, we had 20 10 foot pieces of 3/4 inch copper tubing in my dads 05 turbo OB with no problems. Just put a towel on the dash and watch the hard braking. The OB and Forester usually have roof racks. Thule and Yakima make bars and mounts for sail boards. Why not strap them to the roof? I suppose the sail may be an issue. http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=52 Thule's site is kinda annoying, but they list similar items. Just make up a car if you look there. Rob

I would lean toward the OB. I am considering replacing my GT with an OB, but can't find one with a MT and low miles - less then 50K. A 2.5 with the head gaskets replaced should be a safe bet. I have 80K miles on mine since they were replaced and no problems since. Two minor points on the Forester: The earlier models do not have a locking fuel door and the climate controllers are a bit hard to see, that is the ones with the LED indicators. To me, the Foresters I have driven feel much more basic then the Outbacks. This is not a criticism, basic and simple are good. There is less stuff to go wrong. The new ones are pretty well kitted out. Being a bit longer, there is a bit more leg room in the Outback. Get a turbo Forester. That is a real suprise to the boy-racer types. Rob

This kinda makes me long for my 87 GL 1800 with a 2 barrel and dual range. That had glass headlights.

I believe it has to do with the UV resistance of the plastic used to make the lens. Most older cars with plastic headlights seems to get yellow like that. I found out brake fluid turns them white:mad: You should see some of the crappy old (insert big three auto of choice here) driving around detroit. I they looking like yellow foglights in the dark. It is a good thing there is not vehicle inspection here, or those people would be SOL Rob

Do you have link to the perrin sti?

Supposedly the 6 cylinder engine is only a 2-3 inches longer then the 4. I was looking at an 04 OB H6 at the dealer the other day and it is tight, but it fits in the same space as the SOHC EJ25. They managed the cram one in a VW Vanagon too:) . Rob

Has anyone ever looked in to putting a SVX 3.3 or OB H6 3.0 in place of an EJ25? SVX engines are pretty cheap on ebay. I would guess it would need an adapter to go a 5 speed. I seem smallcarperformance does a 5 speed conversion for the SVX, but not seeing anything about an adapter. I seem to remember a rally racer who put a 3.0 in an impreza. Am I correct is assuming transmissions mounts are the same between the 4 and the 6? If so, it should be a direct swap, right? I am sure the computer and harness are completely different, so that would all need to go. Upgrade the rad and probably do front suspension too, as the 6 should be heavier. Anyone who has done a n/a to turbo engine swap think this would be more or less difficult/problematic then that. My goal is get a more power and hopefully more reliability over the EJ25. I am not looking to make a crazy street racer. I would go buy an STi and call it a day, and have a warranty:) Would I be better off looking at a jdm turbo ej20? I am nervous about buying a used turbo engine. Thoughts? Rob

Just my 2 cents: The lurching problem you describe sounds similar to what mine did when the knock sensor want bad. I would buck and kick under acceleration. A/C made it worse, but then any time the compressor is running (defrost) the car gets a bit twitchy on the throttle. Mine threw a knock sensor code though. Replaced it and the problem is fixed. The L of that year is a 2.2, right? Fifth gear on a (up I am guessing) hill in a Subaru, are you crazy? Try a change or two down and see what happens. If the car starts shaking and making bad sounds, you most likely hit the rev limiter. Go up one gear if this happens. Try double clutching on the downchange if you are worried about grinding. I am guessing you may not know how to do that, as this is your first properly transmitted car. Check this link for information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_clutch Fourth is good to a bit over 100mph in the 98 GT. I am guessing it should be close in the 2.2.

I have had good with the EBC pads and Brembo slotted rotors in the 98 Legacy GT. Had redstuff first. They were great, when hot, but not some much when cold, especially in the winter. I have green stuff now. They are better for normal driving, but not as good as redstuffs. Redstuffs for the track. I can't say anything about about EBC pads. I run them on the Honda CB750 too. They seem to be very kind to rotors. I avoid drilled rotors. Many friends have had them crack. Has anyone tried the Bremdo pads tirerack started carrying? My green stuffs are about ready to be changed and they seem to be scarse. Rob

I found one of the fans on the 87 GL was wired backwards at the connector, so when I came on, it blew in to the radiator, instead of drawing air through it. On the freeway, it must have completely stopped air flow, because the car would read hotter then normal, and the A/C would stop working. Slow down or shut the air off and it would go back to normal. I have not had that problem on my Legacy, but it might be worth looking at. Rob

The K&N filter seems to make a difference. Throttle responce is better, and the intake tone is deeper. The milage increase I can't really attest too though. I try to keep it under 3000 when accelerating. Not was much fun as say 6000, but either is paying for the gas, or the ticket. Also, watch your speed. I find I can get almost 30 on the highway, as long as I don't go much over 75-80mph. I run ngk platinum plugs. I had just installed a set of Bosch +4s when the head gaskets failed, so I don't know if they would better. The dealer put NGKs in and they have been fine for 80,000 miles. I might look at the Bosch ones again, since the dealer want $16 a piece for the NGKs. I have concerns about switching brands thought. My Honda CB750 calls for NGKs and fouls cheaper plugs very quickly, so I am bit nervous about what the Sub might do. I have had good luck with Magnecor wires. The US factory is close to my house, so I was able to get a set for $100 when I picked them up. They are made very well. They only minor problem is the larger wire diameter does not fit perfectly in the factory wire holders. Be careful with Bosch plug wires. The boots come off and you have to pull them off the plugs with long needle nose pliers. That was a fun day Rob

I had the Goodyears. They where good for all around driving, but they are too hard for "brisk" back roads. They are ok, if you like understeer. I would not recommend them on a track. They made a lot of noise when I pushed them. I have Bridgestone Potenza G009 on my 98 GT currently. They are great in rain and snow and very quite on the highway. They are a bit hard for track/autoX use. I had a set of Dunlop SP2000E before the Bridgestones. I would definitely recommend them for track use. I was able to keep up with an STi in the rain, until the straight of course:) . They were excellent summer and rain tires, but they were terrible in the winter. They seems to be magnetic though. I had three nails in tire at the same time. BTW: Don't try to go any wider then 205 on the factory wheels or you may get rubbing on the rear struts when the suspesion compresses. There is not much clearance. Get some aftermarket wheels with a different offset for wider tires. Rob

That is one of the codes I got on my 98 Legacy GT at about 150K. I would check in to replacing the O2 sensors before the cat. There is a back pressure test that can determine if it is plugged, which could account for some of the poor performance. Check this article out: http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/catfailure/ Is your an auto or manual? I had a bad misfire that was caused by a failing knock sensor. You may not be able to feel it with the slush box. Replaced it the sensor and it is gone. Rob

This may help: http://www.oakos.com/wrx/vin.htm It shows 6 as the 2.5L. It is for a WRX vin, but it should be similar. I have a 6 on mine, which is also a 2.5. Rob

The engine code is on the top of the block on a little raised bit. You should have an EJ25 DOHC. Some one correct me if I am wrong. I just ordered a new timing belt, fuel filter, and PCV valve for my 98 Legacy GT. Where are you ordering parts from? I order a lot of parts from 1stsubaruparts.com. They ask for you VIN as part of the ordering process. So far I have always received the correct parts. Go through the drill down menu and you should get the correct parts for you car. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html Rob

Perhaps this is an unenlighted question, but did you follow the break in procedure for a new engine? Usually it is recommended that you don't drive the car very hard for the first few thousand miles, until the engine is broken in. Also the speeds the car is driven at should be varied for the first few thousand miles. No trans-continetel voyages with the cruise on for a while. I try to drive a new car the same way as if it was the middle of winter and the car is frozen. Slow acceleration and shift at low revs. I know it is boring, but it sure beats costly engine work. I really wish they still put in oil pressure guages like my brat has. You may be using a lot of oil because the rings have not seated completely yet and the film left on the cylinder walls is thicker then it should be burning off. Do you run natural or synthetic oil? Synthetic oil can hinder the break in process and it doesn't smoke as much when it burns. Just a few thoughts. Rob

I had the same problem on my 98 Legacy GT. I just cleaned the headlights and fog lights(what a joke) with the two part 3M plastic cleaner and polish. This stuff works very well. It took about 5 minutes a light and they looks like new. It also helps smooth out small pits from rock chips too. It also works great on CDs. Any good auto parts store should carry it. http://www.autogeek.net/3mplascleanp.html I also have had success with Mother's mag and aluminum polish. A friend who is a BMW mechanic recommended it. It works, but takes much more effort then the 3M cleaner. Rob