daeron

if you are 180 off, taking each spark plug wire and moving it two spaces (180 degrees) should rectify the problem. Take the spark plug out of the drivers side front cylinder. put your finger on it and slowly rotate the engine forwards until you feel pressure, air being forced out of the spark plug hole. continue to rotate the crankshaft until that piston is at its top dead center. Take the distributor cap off. See the rotor, and note what clock position it is at (high noon, 3 o clock, etc) Put your disty cap back on so that the terminal going to the #1 spark plug is touching (or very very near touching) the rotor. now you are no longer 180 off.. or you never were in the first place, if the rotor is already in the right spot. might still be off a tooth, but thats all the help i can give you.

Jiggle the CTS connector with the engine running and see if the RPMs change or if you hear any difference. The guy in the garage probably just had no clue where to read the timing marks, as they are under your spare tire.... BUT making sure your timing is set well is important. If all else fails, and your car is simply over-polluting, an EASY way to drastically reduce emissions is to get about a half a gallon or more of Denatured Alcohol from the paint supply aisle at home depot, run your gas tank to darn near empty (bring a couple gallons in a can) Add the alcohol to almost NO fuel (as little gas as you can) and go for a quick, hot run right before you go into the emissions testing. Denatured alcohol took our 87 ford van with a 351 windsor in it from GROSSLY over the numbers to virtually zero emissions. When you are done, drive a little bit away from the station and add the gasoline. Or just go fill up. The gas can is mostly to help avoid potentially running dry while trying to burn as much fuel as possible before adding alcohol. I would appreciate anyone else posting to say "yah, running alcohol like this can't really hurt anything" because while _I_ know it is true, it certainly does sound like a "whoa there!! i dunno if i wanna do that to MY car, thank you very much" kind of thing

Bummer, photographs would be a huge help. I have said it before, this "meth" problem the rest of the country seems to be having is weird.. I live in a pretty crappy friggin neighborhood, but I *really* don't see alot of meth use.. or hear about it.. I wonder why south florida is not as taken up in this wave of idiocy? I guess we get our own brands of idiocy down here. Maybe its just cuz stuff from S. America is more readily available for the junkies, who knows.

heh, Isnt this just GROSS?!??!? sorry for the poor quality, but yes my girl just passed over 144,000 miles last night. her new headgaskets are sitting in the sheet feeder to my printer (lol) and I am expecting the cam case O-rings and intake manifold gaskets from 1stsubaruparts.com tomorrow. So in other words, (from my point of view) these engines last about 144K before they blow headgaskets (yes yes, i know, its actually X00,000 miles plus an overheat :-p)

The grill is held im place my three little pegs molded into the bottom of the grill. One on either side, and one in the middle. When My hood cable broke, I had to pry the bottom of my grill up to pull these pegs out of their holes, then I flexed the bottom of the grill forward until I could reach in, and it was a piece of cake to figure out how to open the hood from there. I removed my grill until I could fix the cable.. I can't remember, but I ay have even put a piece of tie-wire onto the latch so I could pull it open through the grill. Why is your hood stuck shut, broken cable? it isnt INCREDIBLY difficult to fix, but it can be a chore. My vote would be to go get one out of a junkyard.. that way, you have a "practice" vehicle, and it will help show you how the thing is run.

First off, thank you ALL very much for your "ammo" for my little tiff with my brother... second of all, if the mods would like to close this thread, or move it out of technical discussion, I suppose its original purpose has been achieved and theres no REAL need to let it keep bubbling up to the top... and I kinda feel embarrassed over bothering you folks about it. He wasn't REALLY trying to tell me it didn't NEED headgaskets, he was trying to tell me I didnt need to do them. third of all, more or less, what my brother was after was trying to avoid me "throwing time and money away" on this car: I apologize for over reacting a little to him, and showing my over reaction (even in a nice, controlled way) here to you folks on the board. Last night was just a case of two irrational males disagreeing over something, and butting heads, basically. He seems to think that by fixing my headgaskets, I am simply buying myself future issues with this car, and he wants to help me find some other $1000 car to get into... (a magical car, one that won;t have any issues...) MY position is, I know darn well this car is on it's way into the ground, that is a no-brainer.. I have my Z as a long dormant project that I need to get moving on, but even when she is on the road I will need an alternate vehicle. I do not want to be putting all my miles on it. So, MY thoughts are, I want to get another soob to replace this one, EVENtually. That being the case, what do I care how much I put into this motor? the radiator, the motor, if I buy a new fuel pump, the starter, the alternator.. guess what?? if the car DIES before I can get another soob, I just yank em all and wait! It came down to a fundamental difference of opinion. He thinks I allow myself to project too shabby an image with my taste in vehicles.. The Z is ratty right now and was the whole time I drive it. not much better or worse than the soob (white car, red hood, one red door, one primer/rust/bondo door, and a few minor rusty spots) Apparently he thinks if I am driving like, a mid 90's honda or something, the image projected is alot better. Me, I want to re engineer both my Zcar and my theoretical future subaru into being my own vehicles. Starter relays, ignition circuit relays, retrofit my GL10 stuff (trip comp and cruise) into the next soob. I want to start out with a Nissan and a Subaru, and end up with two Hara-Carey Japanese-American vehicles. (last name is Carey, Uncle came up with that name as an idea for his datsun race team.. hara-kiri is japanese ritual suicide, and we all figure these cars are gonna kill us one way or another ) BUT ANYHOW, in the end.. like I said, thanks for the input. BTW, 255 WAS a gross typo, both cylinders on that side were 155 Also, Moderators, feel free to move this thread.. the entire issue that I had originally thought was a technical one, was NOT. If anyone would like to continue to give me advice, its more than welcome....

Yah, so I just got off the telephone with my ASE certified older brother, and he is suddenly adamant about me NOT needing headgaskets on this engine... these are the relevant threads, just to refresh your memory.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71457&highlight=gasket http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71108&highlight=gasket I had a major water pump blowout last june, and ive replaced radiator, removed thermostat, replaced a few hoses, and i have a constant bubbling out of my radiator overflow. twenty seconds after i turn the car on, until about five minutes after its off, and then the next morning i go to refill it and the cap is still holding pressure..... I am not overheating actively, my comp numbers are 185+, 180 on driver side, 155 255 on passenger side. I am stumbling until the car warms up. What ammo can i throw at him to make him believe I am right, because he simply refuses to believe it and i need this damn car back on the road pronto.. and now HE wants to fix it for me and "save me my money" (60 bucks) and i gotta know what to tell him i gotta leave for over there in like, ten fifteen minutes, so quickly please!

My uncle has about half a dozen turbos that we have referred to collectively as "those subaru turbos" since he acquired them with a HUGE amount of datsun parts about five or six years ago.. I do NOT *know* that they are what you want at all, BUT I will endeavor to get to them and photograph them for identification purposes at some point this week.... it is something I have been meaning to do anyhow, and since I am gonna be at the shop there is that and a few NOS OEM items that I need to sell here....oddball stuff, some distributors, a carb, a windshield wiper motor.. lots of oddball stuff. I almost don't want to say anything, because I can't make any promises and I don't want to get your hopes up if I am wrong/can't get around to it/insert other reason I might regret making this post later here.... BUT in the end, I made the post and I will make an effort to look further into this. Rest assured you will be the first person I talk to about anything, AND we won't be asking for too too much. Something tells me my uncle will appreciate moving this stuff, and that should influence his asking prices...

I cant see any reason why pouring about a half a cup or so of 91% isopropyl alcohol into each cylinder before turning it over a couple times could hurt anything, and adding the alcohol will make any liquid still in there that much more prone to evaporation... BUT you are probably fine at this point, as far as remaining coolant/etc in your cylinders Hopefully no damage ensued from the minimal force exerted on it by the starter.... Good Luck!!

Huh? Mine hit 6k on a regular basis, still had power there, I usually shifted it at 5k. There is a guy over at fordsix.com who has a 300 that turns 8k. I was in the process of building a 300-6TT that would regularly see 7k, but unfortunetely all the parts have been lost (no thanks to my old landlord). I guess I must have misinterpreted the full meaning of this: THANK you for helping avoid the obliteration of the only american car "dream" I really have One of these days, when I have a billion dollars and all the other cars I can handle (a stable of Zcars and other nissans, a few soobs, a gullwing mercedes, an E-jag, you know.. my dream garage) one of these will be mine.. maybe even one day, in real life the stars will align.. Okay, end threadjack :-p

So the desiccant itself CAN be "dried" in a sense? I wouldve figured once it reached a certain point, it would be saturated and no good.. Obviously, I am still trying to learn about car AC systems :-p

I motion that we put a sticky up, that says in the subject header "Engine Trouble? Check Dist. Rotor Screw!" It will help remind the rest of us, as well as inform anyone who hasn't had that problem yet

He isn't talking about the Idle Stop screw, is he????? that screw should have a white paint mark on it from the factory, and should never be touched, from what I understand..... I cant visualize where it is, though...

are those hella lights australian market?

Unwise, ESPECIALLY if you even think about trying to use the heater.. that stuff clogs things up, and its bad karma to go and sell a car like that. headgaskets are not difficult, but ask me about that again this time next week.. but either which way, adding "stop leak" is just asking for trouble.. it means there is NO way you could ever sell it to ANYONE you know, and whoever you sell it to is gonna blow it up within a month, and come looking for you. Like I said, talk to me about the headgaskets in a month. Until now the most complex job I have had to do on a car was timing belts, suspension work, lightweight type stuff.. and i am still anticipating knocking a homerun on these HGs in under 72 hours.. if I am lucky maybe even a good 24 hour session.

possibly scan one page at a time, in as BMPs, and copy and paste them together in paintbrush, then convert to PDF format? or include as files to download next to the FSM? paintbrush now saves in many file formats, too...

well.. at least it started, and all that rainy effort wasnt in vain... I have discovered a great source to get generic bosch relays, plugs, and even covered brackets out of BMWs in the junkyards.. if you are at all interested in switching over to bosch relays for the vehicle, PM me and I can give you the info and some pictures...

I've always wondered what could be done to hotrod that 300-6 to drop her into an old fastback mustang and make my own muscle car.... Being the Datsun Z-car fan, i LOVE inline six engines, and when it comes to 'merican cars, i am definitely a ford man... but now I hear those engines cant rev above like 4 grand.. .. what does your wife want you to get to tow your boat with, then? a $30K "pretty" truck???? *daeron does the semi gleeful, semi depressive single man dance* I will never understand those people with the double X chromosome.. they just dont make no sense..... (forum company, naturally excluded for showing the rationality requisite in subaru ownership)

okay, I cannot give you more details about the alternator charging wire, but My money is on either that, or a slow battery drain like your mechanic friend suggests. If the battery has a slow drain, there is a two step process to verify that. You DO need a multimeter for this test, but I know they are on sale at harbor freight tools this week for like six bucks. First off, with the ignition off, check the battery voltage, leave the leads on the battery cables, leave the multimeter on, and walk away for like, an hour. Come back and see if the voltage is lower than it was. If the voltage has dropped with the key off, then voila!! you have a battery drain. Second, to verify that the drain is in fact in the vehicle's wiring, Disconnect the battery, get a couple of clothespins or something, and once more, check to make sure the battery is holding voltage on its own. Check voltage, come back in an hour or two, and check the voltage again. If the battery is still losing voltage, not connected to the car, then guess what? defective battery! Now, IF the battery is NOT losing volts connected to the car with the key off, then the problem is NOT that the battery is DRAINING, but rather than the battery is not being charged. Try taking the alternator in and testing it (I know, its new, but they aren't always good) and then if the alt checks out, and the battery checks out, and there is no drain, then the wire i mentioned earlier is the culprit. All it takes is one spot of corrosion somewhere, and you know what that plug looked like!!! there is NOTHING in a wire to keep rust and nastiness like that from moving into the wire, from the nasty old plug. Picture a copper pipe on your hot water heater.. if the coupling that connects the pipe to your water heater rusts apart, do you REALLY think that the pipe its connected to is all that clean??? Now, if you ARE experiencing a drain, then come back and let us know. Wrenchwork is EASY, its figuring out the causes of problems like this that is hard, and thats what we are here for. Come on, you are a female motivated to work on your own car.. you KNOW you have the intellectual support of damn near this entire forum and Intellectual support is all that is needed to deal with electrical problems. Well, intellectual support, patience, and beer........

Now, I only say this because I just cleaned out my car and found my orignial tie rod ends in the back.. I had to replace them because one got clobbered when I hit a curb (don't laugh, but I took a left turn across a divided highway, and i took the turn too shallow ) BUT, even my "good" tie rod end was as loose as a goose when I removed it.. it MIGHT be worth popping your tie rod ends off the steering knuckles to give them a real inspection, since they only cost about $20 each.. of course, you need to do tha front end alignment after replacing them, BUT still,I figured it was worth mentioning.

I think you were talking about generaldisorder... other than that I cant help you, but something might start showing up in the similar threads at the bottom of this page.. OR, in the "similar threads" at the bottom of THOSE pages... you are definitely thinking of GD's setup though, if that helps. try looking through the Oil Pressure poll thread.

i didnt wanna sound unwelcome-ful.. thats why I stuck the dancing banana in there hey you know, oops. I glanced up at your user "staff" and checked vehicles, saw the legacy, and somehow presumed you werent talking about the wagon.. For that matter, which vehicle were you talking about, because now I am confused... I just jumped the gun and assumed it was a case of someone mistakenly posting a question about a 90 legacy in the "older gen" forum. I only made a point so that the thread would get moved to where you would get more help, I dont wanna be a nag :-\

this is the forum for the ea82 cars.. I presume you are talking about the disty on your legacy. wrong forum :-p

He's right.. you should go to a junkyard with your flex tubing and find a y pipe of some sort that has an o2 sensor bung in it, that fits onto your flex pipe. You just have to keep the car's feelings in mind. After all, how would YOU feel if someone ripped YOUR exhaust off and replaced it with one lacking a bung-hole???

cue the cranberries, ZOMBIE!!