daeron

It might also be a REALLY DIRTY MAF sensor, or something blocking the air passage going to the MAF within the housing.. Inspect the inside of the aluminum housing, at the top, to make sure that the small passageway that goes up to the actual sensor is not clogged in any way, and make sure both the skinny wires on the actual sensor are clean. Use brake cleaner, or carb cleaner, or Quick Drying electronics cleaner to clean the MAF, and be careful with those two filaments, they *are* somewhat fragile. Check the distributor stuff first, but this is another possibility.

D-D-D-Did someone s-s-say M-M-M-M-Max He-Head Room???? :-p sorry, had to do it. Nice progress on your project, there... You seem to have a good dose of the true craftsman in you, and I always like to see that. Its nice to see a project being taken so seriously and carefully.. I read your comment about hours of progress resulting in 1/8 inch of movement on the fit, and that being a good thing.. I hear you. Keep going, you look to be VERY close. Hopefully this summer you'll be done

What he says there, at the end, was basically what I had to do to put my stereo into the 87 GL-10.. I used the kit (that was actually made for the car) but I had to use some ingenuity to actually make it work... I am not gonna try to explain it all, since the upcoming photos will do FAR better than I can do with words... If GD says an EA-82 kit should work on the spacing, then that is what I would do. Basically, you need a bezel/spacer to help "create" a large enough slot in your dashboard. No one ever said putting a stereo into an older soob was easy, unfortunately..

one word: WOT you must have the throttle all the way open for a valid compression test, it DOES change the numbers.. 90 is a little low even for a turbo engine, so I would suspect all four figures. HOPEfully that will help line up that one cylinder thats off, too..

Most of their kits for older vehicles come complete (IE you have to cut the face out for a DIN receiver) The one I put in my car did.. (btw, to the OP: look at my thread titled "Look what I did on Monday!") I had to cut it out. They SAY that the DIN cage should have ears that get bent forwards, to hold the DIN cage against that plastic faceplate, and THAT is what holds the stereo up. Sounded weird to me, too, which is why I went ahead and took the ROYAL PITA route of installing the cupholder with mine, too.. my install was rather custom, and when I dis assemble to attach the front speaker wires, I will take good photos. That shall have to wait, however.. IM GOING TO SEBRING this weekend... (sorry, the 12 hours of Sebring is a MAJOR family tradition, and I haven't been since 2000....)

most of us have to run high octane fuel to avoid pinging, but you should run as low an octance as your engine will tolerate without detonation.. Pinging happens most under full throttle, at lower RPMS, under load. In other words, find a hill, drive up it in fifth gear, with the pedal floored. If your engine makes some strange noises and seems short on power, you are pinging, and you need higher octane. I cannot describe "pinging" any better than that, and honestly I wouldn't mind a better description of the symptoms myself.. I never knew what it was, until I found myself in that EXACT scenario one day and it thundered into my brain that if I ran high test, that "odd stumble" would be gone.. sure enough, I was right...

For What Its Worth.... and... Link 'em, download 'em, they are in my gallery on the USRM here. you are all welcome

Redneck and Ricer.. two semi-ugly, semi-prejudiced American slang terms. A "redneck" is a country boy, a farm person.. not gender specific, but a yokel, a hick.. someone NOT from the city.. also, it implies someone who is happy to just rig something to make it work.. using a soupcan to patch a hole in your exhaust, for example, is a "redneck" fix. A classic one at that. Ricer is a little more complex... It derives from the term "rice-burner" which was a term used to insult Japanese cars when they were first being imported into the US... they called them rice burners because of a rumor (or it may have been true) that the Japanese would burn Rice Wine (Sake) in their planes and tankes, etc during WWII when they started running out of natural resources (gasoline) SO in the sixties these cars started showing up, and the rednecks started calling them all rice burners... (TOTAL coincidence, the rednecks were simply the die-hard American Car people) NOWADAYS, "ricer" or "rice burner" typically implies one of the ridiculously modded honda civics that have like, 400 pounds of carbon fiber bolted on to the stock chassis, without ANY weight removed, a "custom" exhaust that chokes off their engine, and NO real performance upgrades... In other words, the original poster's question was, does this look too gaudy and pointless, or is it somewhat tasteful? Another Illustration of the term "Rice..." Are you familiar with the movie The Fast and The Furious? Around here, alot of people called that movie The Rice and The Ridiculous

crazy if list was paid for all that... Big Pimpin' if you somehow made all that appear on a "subaru budget" (ie, less than 50% of list)

Thanks. That gave me the warm fuzzies inside.. (in this TOTALLY hetero, platonic, automotive way.. like a new torque wrench kinda warm fuzzies..)

contact crutchfield, you'd be surprised what they have in stock. they had the kit for my 87 GL-10 with trip computer, which is a TOTAL oddball..

Well, then.. I must have missed that memo, I didn't realize you had replaced the wires, yet.. I knew you had done the T plug but I missed you fixing the wires. Good Juju on you!! i dunno how religious you may or may not be, but maybe putting some sort of artifact/relic hanging from the rearview might be appropriate? even a lucky rabbit's foot... a focal point for your Chi, if you will

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

Gorgeous!

True, but.... Equally true. THAT about sums it up.. if YOU like the vehicle, and do not mind the 2wd driveline (for now at least) AND if you can talk the price down, then maybe go for it. In the end, everyone here WOULD laugh at you for paying 1200 for it, though. even 800. if you get them down to 500, then you've got a car to start with, and you can always change the driveline later.. BUT I think we have done a good job in this thread letting you know where you stand with this vehicle.. We oughta sticky this thread, to point to in the future.. because really, we HAVE touched on just about every base, and this question comes up alot.. because alot of people see the T-word, and that pretty Pleiades logo, and think WRC car!!!! and all this is needed to "set them straight" as it were. Turbo Starions were pretty nice cars at one point, too.. And dammit if I haven't ACTUALLY come to love this fugly sedan i am driving!!!!!!!

hood pins, like any other visual modification, I call rice unless they are needed. If you pin it, remove the cable assembly.. what good is it? I believe in hood pins, when there is no other way to hold your hood down. The only personal experience I have with them, is when my old man put them on the non-hinged fiberglass hood, on the one-piece fiberglass front end on his 240Z. In other words, they were the ONLY thing holding the hood on. Beyond that, my call is just "rice," but not a very convicted "rice" verdict. Especially those pins, outside of the CF they look schweet!! and if your car merits it, then its allll good. just paint over that CF lookin crap, even if it IS real CF. Carbon Fiber, to me, is a great thing, yah.. but its fugly. you wouldn't leave exposed fiberglass finish, would you? its raw material, not a finish.. its not like its WOOD....

beataru: save yourself some headache and frustration, and go buy 12 feet of clear vinyl tubing the size of your bleeders, get a 2 liter bottle, and open up each bleeder, one at a time, in the prescribed sequence, and just pump, pump, pump, then go back to your vinyl tube and look for air bubbles. if there are ANY still in the tube, top off your reservoir and pump, pump until the ENTIRE tube is clear. once the tube is clear, proceed to the next brake. As long as there is some brake fluid in the tube (there will be as soon as you push the pedal the first time) it will NOT suck air back up into the caliper/wheel cylinder. Speed bleeders are nice... but at like, ten bucks a pop its a little procey for something that just makes laziness OK

I think thats three in a row now that HAVE ended (fairly) well.. the last one to get resolved had taken about four months, but in the end the car wasn't that much worse off for the wear.. Congratulations, I've had bicycles and stuff stolen from me alot in my life, and its such a violated feeling... TWO TIMES i have managed to get glimpses of stolen bikes of mine, once the thing was parked out in front of the store and I didn't even realize it had been stolen yet! (thanks roomate!) it must feel great to have your car BACK.

you said it varies with engine speed.. did you mean vehicle speed, or does it speed up when you downshift, regardless of vehicle speed?? If it really varies with the ENGINE speed, then I dont think its a drive axle noise.. not entirely sure what it might be, but it could well be something else that had been masked by the noise from your bad axle?? or, I was right and you meant vehicle speed, which is probably the case. Just had to disambiguate! :-p

I *really* think you would benefit from replacing the two heavy gauge wires that come off of the alternator.. one of them should be a part of the T-plug, and the other should be connected straight to a lug on the bag of the alternator with a ring terminal.. that will help guarantee no charging issues, and if you can solder (you assemble PCBs dont you?) then you can replace those two wires.

The symptoms you are describing DO match what a bad TPS can do.. but other things can "feel" the same way. To test the TPS, you need to use a multimeter. If you don't know what that is, say so and I can explain further, but for the time being I will assume you know what one is, and how to use it. All you need to do is unplug the TPS, which is a small black sensor on the right side of your throttle body (as you are looking at the engine) There are two terminals on the TPS to measure the resistance between, I forget exactly which ones. You clip your multimeter leads onto the two terminals, and check to make sure that resistance gradually increases as you gradually press down on the gas pedal, with no jerks or skips. The TPS is basically like a volume knob attached to the throttle plate.. as you open the throttle more (push the gas pedal) it "turns the volume up" slowly and evenly.. well, as slowly and evenly as you apply the gas pedal Anyhow, to get back to my metaphor, if the TPS is like a volume knob, then a BAD TPS is like a volume knob on a stereo that doesn't work right, and gets all crackly when you change the volume.. you ever experience that? The "volume" signal that the TPS generates is fed into the computer, and it uses that to figure out how much fuel to feed the engine. So, bad spots in the TPS translate to your engine failing to get fuel when the pedal is at certain positions. However, the EXACT same problem can also result from a perfectly good TPS, and bad wiring for the TPS. A good way to "test" the wiring is to flex the entire length of it, one small section at a time, while the engine is running. If the engine stumbles, or surges, and that coincides with flexing a section of wire, then you know you have found a "bad spot." I sent you a private message asking for your email address, so i could email you a .pdf file with the exact TPS test procedure from the factory service manual. VERY helpful in diagnosing this problem, and you might imagine. If you have any more questions, fire away.. I'm kinda practicing for an eventual write-up to just link to any time this question comes up

fuel filter? leaky float? I've seen this on old outboard engines that had pinholes in the float.. the float keeps enough fuel in for lower RPMs, but by the time it gets to high RPM the float isn't keeping enough fuel in the bowl to power it..

please define a "whole lot." The vehicle you are looking at is NOT an awful choice.. BUT the signs indicate a high chance of cooling system "issues," which VERY OFTEN lead to blown headgaskets on ANY ea82 powered car. The rule of thumb is, all it takes to blow a HG on an ea-82 is 100,000 miles, and one bad (reasonably bad) overheat. IF you are willing to A Flush the radiator B be willing to REPLACE the radiator if needs be C replace the headgaskets and D go ahead and do the timing belts, water pump, and oil seals more or less right away, then there is NO ticking time bomb awaiting you... BUT don't plan on boosting the crap out of it. If 4WD is not "needed" on this vehicle, then 2wd isn't awful.. plus it frees up some power and fuel mileage because you arent spinning the rear driveline, ever... However, over $1,000 is a bit much to be asking for. If I were you, I would print out this thread, and bring it in there, say, "look, these cars blow headgaskets, and this one probably has.. give it to me for $500." If they take it, take it and run. You were already contemplating dropping over a thousand for it, so drop 500, some time, and some $$ for parts. Just keep that engine cooled and you should be OK. as for tuning this beast, without spending money on power AND MORE on reliability, you will just blow the headgaskets sooner... to build an ea82T "right" is to throw money into a blacker hole than most cars are... the better route to real power is to swap in an EJ motor (even NA its stronger than the ea-82T)

BAH!! jack-stands are over rated!! I always just use my stock spare tire jack anyh:dead: :dead: :dead:

Well, I noticed Loyale had linked me to the USRM and looked in there, and found this: THAT would suggest to me that I need to find the grey and white pairs, and then "click" them with a battery to see which is right and left.. I also know all about making the speaker "tick" with a battery, but had NO place to begin with before.. Between your post, and that in the USRM, I believe I should be able to find the wires I need. Since I already ran all new wires for my rear channel, is there any reason not to just hop straight onto the stock plug for my wires? I have special skinny female crimp on connectors to slide onto the stock plug's pins.. so I can just tap in there, and avoid cutting the stock harness whatsoever. I may not be being as clear as possible today.. so let me re phrase. Since I have all new rear wiring, to MY understanding I should be A-OK running wires out of my new stereo, into the pins on the plug for the stock stereo, for the front speaker circuits. Correct?