daeron

You know... it may just be my age and lack of experience.. But I have NEVER had a problem that was solved with a distributor cap, wires, plugs, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, or ANY of that. I always change them first, and my problem NEVER goes away.... O well. I guess its all helping to hone my senses for detecting FI system issues...

wouldn't be the first time. I have only gutted one cat in my life, and what I found was the best method involved a piece of 1/2 inch electrical conduit.. really thin gage metal pipe. I twisted it around and it acted like a hole saw boring through the ceramic honeycomb... Any long, skinny object that you can get into the cavity, will work. jut jam it in there, and bang it in. I was grabbing the cat, and hitting the exposed end of my pipe agains the driveway to drive it further in.. Make sure you get it all out before re installing, though!!! you dont want a chunk to come free and block you up again in the future, and the only way to ensure that doesn't happen is to get it ALL out!

Did you get the job? To me, as an interviewer, that would show you to be a remarkably resourceful person (even if you are a little absent-minded ) GOOD IDEAS in this thread here!! File these away for future reference...

Under the hood, between the drivers side shock tower and the windshield. easy as pie, its already in the PERFECT spot.

that headlight conversion.. would that be using these headlight buckets? Because I have several of those, NOS new in box... if anyone is interested. I have to double check to make sure I've got matched pairs and not all one side... but if the "conversion" is that easy, and anyone else would be interested, make an offer on the parts.. I'm procrastinating on taking alot of pictures, organizing, and posting them under "for sale" but I figured since this had come up I would make a shameless attempt to take a low-buck offer for the headlight buckets... apologies if they are in order.

OOOoooOOOOoooo, PURDY!!!

2 gallons should be enough. Some people will say yes, you should hear the pump come on with the key for a few moments.. but I never have. the BEST way to test the fuel pump is to plug the green connectors on, and turn the key to "on." you should hear a clicking underneath the dashboard, and the fuel pump will cycle on and off.

Why do brand new gas gneerators usually come with a 10HP motor on a 5KW RMS generator then?

I am NOT normally one to say this, but I think it might look better with the trim line left on.... paint it blue if you want, but to me it is obviously missing something in the middle of the door..... I can't say what I think would look best, or I would have posted this sooner.. but IMHO, it needs something in the middle of all that sheetmetal there... As for two-toning it, why not just do the EXTREME lower section in black, or bedliner type stuff?? IE, START with the black just below your RX Decals??

gorgeous hatch, I LOVE the entire front end!!!

Open mouth, insert foot. :-p Thanks for correcting me Gloyale

Its easy enough to run new wire to the rear speakers anyhow.. and it isnt a volume/audiophile issue. It is a very real electronical issue which will hurt the deck.. you are tying too high a resistance load onto two channels. you wouldn't install speakers of the wrong impedance, would you? no, you would blow your amp. (amp, receiver, whatever amplifies your signal.

the TPS switch should me calibrated to a slightly finer degree than simply ensuring that the idle switch functions properly.. The procedure involves two different feeler gauges, set in place between the throttle drum and the throttle stop screw. One gauge simulates a 1* throttle opening, and the other a 2.5* throttle opening.. and the TPS should set specific resistances (withing a range) at those two points, as well as a certain spec resistance at WOT. If you've already gone through all that, then cool.. I just wanted to make it abundantly clear in case you still have any running issues... Sounds like you are on the right track, though.

well, the argument goes that the OHV motor has no timing belts, thereby reducing chances of failure... otherwise the two engines are virtually identical.. and "peak torque" is what, 80-100 ft-lbs??? are you planning on needing *that* much power? that would be enough to power say, a 50KW generator..... IE, more than most large yachts (until you get to donald trump style) or motorhomes use.... 20KW should be ample for your home essentials, 50Kw oughta be able to power your entire house if you wanted.... 20 kilowatts is 166 amps at 120 volts. 50 kilowatts is 416 amps at 120 volts. Something tells me idling would be ample for a simple gen head. As for "sensors" if you want to use the SPFI (most fuel efficient, most reliable to turn the engine on after letting it sit for six months, and least hassle all around) then all the critical "sensors" are integrated into the engine/intake... the biggest exception is the O2 sensor. The TPS, CTS, CAS< and MAF are all integrated components of the engine in the first place.. nothing to remove! The FI system would be my bet, on an EA-81..

well, 2nd generation RX-7s came with EXCELLENT little oil coolers on the front of them, and the junkyard people often overlook them.. not too "little", either.. IIRC, about 2"x8"x14-18"

My apologies, no real sarcasm intended... Just a couple thoughts. How realistic would an electric oil pump BE? (seriously, I'm asking you.. I don't know) I know I've seen electric water pumps.. why not oil?? From there, I let my sense of humour, and the late hour get to me. Its not altogether an awful idea, though.. Does RAM engines or someone make a high performance oil pump?? The whole dry sump idea came from thinking about how to properly set up an independent turbo oiling system in the first place.. you would want a place for all the oil to drain down to while idling, before shutting the car off.. yout turbo would be lower than the power steering pump and its reservoir, so oil would stay in the turbo when you shut it off and would cause long-term coking problems, wouldn't it? So, I figured ideally if you were to use the power steering pump, adding a separate reservoir and some sort of dampening chamber could help lower the pressure generated by the pwoer steering pump.. OR you could just get a smaller pulley for the pump. Honestly, I'm talking a little over my head here. If I am really just blowing so much hot air, I will politely shut up No harm, no foul, I'm just sayin..

oil cooler, electric oil pump, and an accu-sump system??? TOP MOUNT oil cooler!!! in reality, i own stock in the oil companies and I want you to have to change 12 quarts every 3,000 miles

Oh, I know what you mean... I've had the same ideas churning in my head, except *I* don't even have cash to think about trying to find a gen head... My intent in linking you to the RAM performance site was to show you what their setups looked like, for a stand-alone engine.. outside of a car. Basically just the engine (complete with starter, alternator, water pump, distributor, and radiator) and some sort of governing system to either keep it at 1800 RPM as mentioned above, or a multiplier of some sort (Thinking a chain on the crankshaft output, in lieu of a drivetrain? You are building the generator, thats your call.) With a 2x multiplier, you could just set the idle to 900 RPMs with ease, and that should run it all day. I don't know what kind of wattage you were wanting, but in general your rated Kwatts x 2 == HP your engine needs.. so idling should provide you with up to about 15-20KW rating, with a somewhat higher peak... In theory, you might also be able to connect the idle up circuit that engages when the AC is turned on.. the ECU adds fuel to compensate at idle.. THIS is an excellent idea, that I have thought on much.. Most of that was actually before I started USMB'ing, though, so I haven't talked it out with too many people. Unfortunately, distributor/ignition is about the one subsystem on automobile engines I still don't wuite grasp, so I can't help you with particulars there.. The best bet is to go read through GD's EFI conversion article for the EA-81. Even if you don't want to run the EA-81, and you want to use an EA-82, read the article.. It succinctly tears down what the EA82 SPFI system is, as a machine independent of the car it was built in.. The distributor ignition is part and parcel with the SPFI system, so it should provide the answers you need. The engine block used is largely irrelevant at this stage in planning.

RAM engines or RAM performance or something like that.... Sorry, I was having a brain aneurysm earlier or something, I just couldnt think of it....

BUMP for the update, heh... Its a legacy! DUH, why didn't we think of that.. you only said 1991 sedan, MPFI.... it didn't occur to ANYone that it might be the car that was SUPPOSED to have the 2.2 in it Is it a fivespeed? AWD? sounds good enough to me, but I know south FLORIDA legacy prices, TOTALLY different world.

yah resleeve with no torque plate == cylinder out of round.. the torque plate gets torqued on the bloc like its a head, and that way when the block is bored, it is already stressed as it will be in run conditions. Boring without a totque plate can be done, and the engine will likely work.. for a little while....

aaaahhhh.. my brain is hurting and I cant think of the name of the people, but would someone please link this man to the airplane EA-81 people? that way you can get some visuals on what they do for using the engines standalone in an airplane....

Well, I highly doubt GD would come away from it with much more knowledge than he's already got.. but ANYone else who would like a good thorough read on how fuel injection works, to help supplement their knowledge from the FSM, can click here for a pdf of the datsun 280Z's "fuel injection bible," Its a thorough factory shop manual for the Bosch L-Jetronic FI system installed on the Z.. its different from ours, because it uses a flapper door AFM (not a proper MAF) and an ANTIQUATED TPS... (three positions.. idle, run, and WOT) but the ideas are all VERY well explained there.

Kosher... In 1997, the first time I saw a race at Sebring, I watched John Paul Jr. driving a BMW M3 GT2 car.. fifteen minutes after I got to the track, my dad took me to the hairpin. After a few laps, we saw him on the approach.. and suddenly half his steering gear was bouncing down the track in front of him on it's way into the hairpin.. He hit the tire wall, rolled the car over the tire wall along its long axis over onto its roof, and got out.. walked away... Ever since that day, I have had a healthy distrust of front end components.. meaning I triple check torques, and am paranoid about any potential weak points. Good to know that everythings holding up well.... when you finish you need to do a really nice photo album, because I know you;ve got a TON of pictures from what you've done.. you could become the brat professor if you do enough writing to go with it. I'd be willing to help if you need it.. your work is impressive to say the least. We need a thumbs up smiley.....

yes, we have sense here. Anyone you see with a SOMEwhat high post count has picked up on the idea that "f" ALWAYS means front, because thats simple. Welcome to the USMB, the nicest place chock full of informative 80's subaru people on the internet. You get answers as quick as we can provide them, and you don't get flamed for much.. as long as your IQ is higher than a ball of twine.... Good luck with the BRAT!