daeron

Essentially, you are right. That particular problem is something that only a TPI (tuned port injection) system can have. Steveman, you were the one with the BRAND NEW shortblock ea82T, right?? was that a turbo compression motor, or an NA block? that sucks, man.. to be done in by something STUPID like that....

I actually felt the same things as I was cleaning my short block, heads, valve covers and cam cases on the ea-82 when I did my headgasket job... does anyone know why they cast the engines with that external "webbing" all over them?

It also helps to shift into reverse, and feather the clutch a little, THEN try getting into 1st

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=579845&postcount=16 87 and 87a are both going to the same place, skip's diagram is for a four prong relay. that should help you, it sounds like you know what the relay does already.

Behold, you should NOT have any power between the headlight switch and ground.. you should have continuity between the headlight switch and ground. It was outlined earlier than my post that you just quoted, in this thread. It's amazing how often we overlook things in a post, and then never re read the whole thread.. Oh, and young and uninhibited as we may be, we DID all have parents growing up.. I think we can all appreciate what happens when the boss hands down word limiting our "fun" time.

I know, that was my point. no need to keep going at it. thanks for taking it the right way, man.. I hate to wave my finger at people who I look up to for assistance, and I appreciate that it doesn't get taken the wrong way.

its enough to give me nightmares... one of these days I really have to disassemble and re assemble a complete spare tranny so I can see how all that ************ works together and it doesn't scare me so much anymore.

hey, youre both just over hashing a pointless debate, you are BOTH being over sensitive and over defensive of your own points. In short, you are both simply living up to GD's tagline, so let it drop... Semantic arguments like this get nowhere, you have both made your points thoroughly enough. GS says "you haven't driven a single mile without covers, so your experience is not valid" which is strictly speaking applicable and true; you haven't got any real data to provide along the lines of "it took me 20K on a coverless soob to lose my first set of belts that could have been prevented." No one is trying to say that running with the covers on is more risky than running without; but Gloyale, you seem to be defending yourself from that point. At the same time, no one is trying to say that taking the covers off means shredding your belts; GD seems to be defending against THAT point. You both obviously feel very very passionate about your timing belt covers, and we all know who likes what. What further purpose is served by continuing the argument? BOTH of you are very knowledgeable guys who contribute ALOT of help, information, and experience to the rest of us; there is no need to get into a pissing contest over which route is "wisest." Different strokes for different folks. Whatever floats your boats. If the shoe fits, wear it. and the timing belt covers suck, DONT USE THEM!!! :-p (sorry had to throw that in there to make the tone more humorous)

water pump while you are at it?

There really isnt a great deal more to do beyond what zebisko outlined.. I mean, you CAN swap in a late, EJ series engine.. and I *believe* you could go to great lengths and swap over to the 5 lug suspension stuff out of an early legacy.. but the EA81 cars like yours, I am not too sure if that is as easy on. The "five lug swap" (term used to collectively refer to the full suspension upgrade, so you have an option for aftermarket parts) is predominantly for the EA-82 cars. I know it seems hard to believe, but it IS a 1982 subaru; there just isnt much aftermarket support, and there wasnt exactly any racing effort behind these cars... Without any of that, your options are VERY limited.

I think it would help, but consensus seems to be that soldering is the best way to go. IIRC (my car is non turbo so its a different sensor) the CTS should basically just be a plug that screws into the manifold and sits in the water flow.. so I would consider taking it out of the manifold to make soldering easier.. but its your choice. Cleaning the terminals (wire side and sensor side) should clear your problem up.. You might consider replacing the spade terminals on the wire harness, but a crimp connection is only going to fail eventually.. However, as I said, it seems to me from reading that solid soldering seems to be the only way to eliminate the problem permanently.

Re read the post that accompanied the picture. His car is lifted 4"... on your car and mine, there IS no 90* elbow, thats just where the lines come through the firewall. They normally go straight into the engine side of the lines in his picture. Now, look at the picture again, and look at the firewall and the hoses coming out.. ignore the elbow, just trace HIS lines down to the engine. Instead of an elbow, imagine lines going straight from the firewall to the engine. THAT is what you are looking for.

He means clipping off the plug, and soldering the wires of the harness directly to the terminals on the CTS, so that in the future there is no sliding terminal connection to be made poor by corrosion.... This CTS issue is arguably one of the most common problems with the EA82T, (its a very common problem with fuel injected vehicles in general) and soldering is a more "permanent" fix to the problem than cleaning terminals that WILL corrode again.

It almost never hurts to take ANY used car, and remove the radiator to give it a good, positive cleaning.. While I am at it, I like to spray down the AC coil with a good degreaser, (simple green is adequate) let it soak, then hose them out from the inside of the engine bay. *If* doing this is going to hurt anything, its going to be something like flaking off corroded fins, which are doomed to failuer anyhow. This also gives you an EXCELLENT opportunity to thoroughly inspect the state of the radiator fins, and if you're changing a thrmostat you can also temporarily bolt the cover on with no thermostat in, and flush the engine out with a hose as well.

man oh man, my dad had a 68 galaxie 2 door.. it was only a 302 though, with a TWO barrel (IIRC?) or else he would have thought maybe ONCE before selling it.. it wasn't valued too highly as it was. Actually, that was the car that temporarily replaced his XT6 when the engine blew.

I mentioned the horn idea, but what did you mean by "no power on the right headlight tab on the switch?" If the switch has two circuits, and one of them is for some reason not being powered, then you won't get any power at that plug to run any horn, headlight, or anything from that right side power wire... Does anyone know offhand in what order power travels from the battery through the wiring and switch, and into the headlights? You basically need to check for power at all steps. Once you find power missing, backtrack through the circuit until you find voltage.. and then you have found where your problem lies. And dont feel bad when you realize you turned them on, it happens to a lot of people. Not ALL of us, but alot of us.

I used a couple wooden shims last time I needed to do it. I always seem to forget this part, though, and do it the wrong way first. Face full of fuel, not fun. *play Price is Right Loser music*

I shall bump it anyway.. because I had a thought. It seems as though the consensus is that if you do not have a cat already, getting one for this purpose is probably a greater length than most people would go to... but what about keeping a snake in the car?

When massive amounts of water start gushing out from underneath of your glovebox oh, and Bucky, I love the fact that even in Acronym form, you said piece of "crap" and not piece of "$#it"

to clarify: use the two hoses attached to the 90 degree pipes side by side in his picture. Flow one direction, then the other, then the other... that oughta do you good, just hook them back up the way they were.

Priceless.... My mom is an old lady. Picture a sixty year old redhead in a mitsubishi 3000GT SL with a fivespeed..... you arent even 40 yet! and i love the rice-burner VW comment, too.

fuel pump is on a shelf, on the passenger side of the car, just in front of the tank. Its pretty much right next to the rear passenger jacking point. the plug is obvious :- )

Get under the car, unplug the fuel pump, and start the car. Thats what I had to do. Just loosen a line and watch your eyes... I've never been able to fully depressurize a fuel system, but doing this much gets rid of alot of it.

I laughed out loud about this... I don't think your problem has anything to do with mine, but your comment about attracting water rang a few bells!!!

I was reading my FSM thoroughly the other day, and realized that the FSM actually tells you to do certain things with the throttle pedal before starting, when trying to run a D-check. IIRC, you hold the throttle at WOT for 30 seconds, then half throttle for a moment, then zero throttle and start the car.. something like that... Is THIS all that important in doing a D-check? I posted a question somewhere, but I do not recall seeing an answer...