daeron

good to hear you found the problem, and come to think on it.. I am gonna go pull all my fusible links right now, just to make sure that they arent the source of MY problems on my GL-10....

well, the market varies greatly around the country. Down here, and in other rust prone areas, a car like that may well fetch over 1000.. but in colorado or oregon, it would be more like 500 if there is no more rust than what you say... Make sure to check the undercarriage and all nooks and crannies (around the trunklid, and the windshield area) very thoroughly.. what is he asking for it? I would be low balling him; find out how much was owed on the vehicle (do you know what repairs were not paid for? just the T belts?) and add 150 to that, see where he goes from there. Check your local craigslist cities.. even going down into texas or up into kansas, check what the cars might be selling for in your region. its not a FANTASTICALLY desirable soob, but it is fairly new.. I certainly wouldnt go over a grand for it, in any case.

Hrmmm... something COULD be mocked up, but it is beyond my knowledge and skills. It really sounds like either the power controller or signal controller have a problem, but I am in WAY over my head and knowledge on it.. so I oughta bow out. I'll keep reading, but any more posts from me arent likely to be helpful outside of the discussion value.

I almost mentioned this earlier, but since you said this happened on Easter (felices pascua florida, mi amigo)I gotta go into it.. I did a rear brake job on my Z car a few years back on christmas eve. At the time, I had a pair of mismatched wheels on the back because my wheel had gotten a flat tire.. my dad let me borrow the tires from his race car project. (normal tires at the time) ANYhow, MY mags used flat-style lug nuts, with a washer.. and the others used acorn style lug nuts (with a dished fit into the wheel hub) BUT none of use were really *aware* of that.. We were under the impression that these wheels just needed spacers to fit on a Z. Anyhow, I left my uncles place after a long, difficult rear brake job (I hate drum brakes) and on my drive home I noticed a clunking. It started to get worse, and I didnt have a cell at the time. I turned around to go back to my uncle's shop.. clunking is getting worse.. Finally, 1/4 mile or less down the road from my uncles, I went over a set of train tracks, and KICKED the rear drivers side wheel right off the car!!! 11:45 on christmas eve, in the middle of the ghetto.. (Ive been shot at on my uncles street for no reason before, right down the street from the projects, THAT kind of ghetto) We had to use the rear bumper bracket to jack the car up enough to get a spare tire onto it, and I drove home. The next morning (christmas, remember) my oldest brother and I got to go back and search around the vacant lots to find the wheel.. it went bounding about 500-800 feet down the road and off into the grass. The only thing that hit the ground on the car was the extreme outside rear corner of the lower control arm... BUT that was only about an inch and a half lower than the corner of my fuel tank, which would have been the next bit to get hurt. That was the day that I really really realized that my parents and older brothers dont know everything, after all.....

It was another thread where I mistakenly misinterpreted someone making a comment about law enforcement not liking the "custom air conditioning" on his car. HE meant the supercharger, but I read something ELSE into it. Gee, how could I have made THAT dumb mistake?? I come from a family of ahh.. "air conditioners" and we have all come up with all sorts of strange euphemisms. I wont get into any of that here...

Good!! I dont even use a thermostat, but I live in south florida. If you never noticed, i took those godawful rust pictures of my car in late december and the lawn and trees were still as green as could be....

Well, I fell asleep at the wheel once in a 89 honda civic hatchback (this was in '01) and drifted into the ditch running parallel to the road.. after a little while, the car hit a culvert where someone's driveway went over that ditch, and it sent me into a spinning roll that I wound up landing on the roof, leaning against a 6 foot high guardrail between the sidewalk and a canal... The seat belt held me fine, and that one was 12 years old at the time.... it actually bruised my ribcage.

please help enlighten me a little.. this system only powers the pump (or varies the power to the pump) when you turn the wheel?? in other words, it does NOT get a steady, constant 12 volt supply? interesting.. Interesting, but over engineered. Well, I hope you get everything figured out.. if all else fails, you could always just fill the rack with fluid and bypass the power steering, giving you manual steering :-\ but I am betting you already know that..

I still havent stopped laughing...

this is a wild-assed idea, but it might work..... what about trying to find a relay that will take a 3 volts switching signal, and use that to switch fused 12vDC from the battery into your pump?? kind of like the starter relay fix? I normally try to keep the silly ideas like this to myself, but this one is just crazy enough to work (if you can find the magic relay i describe) and the XT6 steering system is crazy enough to necessitate it...

HOLY COW!!!!!! I ran straight into a curb doing about 30 mph once (I was pulling left across traffic and didn't pay attention to where the median was) and I destroyed a tie rod end.. but NOTHING like that!!! That must have taken some masterful driving after that impact to stay on the road safely.. good job!!

how about an acronym "sticky?" TTIWWOP was a rather obscure one, and I am normally pretty good at figuring them out. Some of them, like FTW, (for the win) you can get from context clues.. but alot of them are hard. IIRC If I recall correctly FWIW For What Its Worth HTH hope this helps IMO In My Opinion and the perennial favorite, IANAL I Am Not A Lawyer

seriously, though, WTF does Ttiwwop mean? I know what the shocker is, im just missing the meaning of the acronym..

yeah, bob dole... your 6 is frickin AWESOME baby!!

Gesundheit.

Yah, me too. I feel left out, although HybridZ.org was out last night so I understand the craving for the "other forum"

windhsield rust == bad. My car, as rusty as it is, will one day go to the wreckers for one reason: one of these days, some innocent little rock is going to hit the WRONG spot on my windshield and it will spiderweb because its not supported adequately. When the rails holding the windshiled are not solid, the impact resistance is compromised. My point is, heed the warnings regarding using a sealant to try to stop the leak, and get it done right. Otherwise, the rust will get worse and you will be in my shoes.

any brake shop should be able to make up some new hardlines for you fairly cheaply.. maybe not stainless, but i wouldn't worry about stainless..

Amen to ALL of the above, and envy projected over your mad engine block hookups... Had to ask about the injectors, even though I think i recall reading something elsewhere about your future plans. Good to see that after 20K the block was still in good shape otherwise. More fuel should be good, i bet it evens things out even more than you anticipate. Hope everything goes back together well.

Hell, I only get 25 mpg rock solid in my 2wd auto.. I miss my CLUTCH!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't expect 40 MPG.. you are getting a four wheeler, which is NOT the mileage queen. Efficient, yes, but claims of 40 mpg are looked on with some hesitance regardless of drivetrain.. with a 4wd model, even if it is part time and you leave the 4WD off most of the time, don't expect much more than 25 mpg. Note: this is all hearsay, I have never owned a 4wd; anyone who has, if you;d like to give a real experience mileage figure, please correct me if I am wrong.

$800 is a decent price for an east coast soob, but you are in the price range where the rust dictates everything. My soobie-sense tells me you will likely find more rust under there than you would want to see, but if it isnt super close to gone, 600-800 is a pretty good price. If its relatively clean, I would call 600-800 a good price, for a 4wd 5 spd. I would say if its got a decent amount of rust, but not enough to scare you off, offer him 600 and be somewhat firm.. if its relatively rust free, offer him 650 and be willing to pay 800 if he is firm. Check for any signs that he may have had an "overheating issue" lately.. new hoses that stick out, etc. In general, if a cheap EA82 subaru has a new radiator in it, thats a good sign that there have been "overheating" problems in the recent past and it may need a headgasket soon. Even so, my first headgasket job took me two easy days from start to finish, not counting resurfacing time. If you want to do the timing belts, oil pump reseal, and water pump at the same time, it almost SAVES you time.. and it is easy for the uninitiated.

best advice I can give is to remove the old tie rod ends and ball joints, and bring them to the store to match up against what you purchase. I got the wrong tie rod ends for mine, when I ordered initially, and had to go back to the store. They looked very close even on a side by side comparison, but the tie rod ends I got had larger diameter "spline" on them.

once again, I will agree that fully removing the radiator is the ONLY way to know what kind of shape it is in. Really, its fairly easy work to do, and it is a TON of peace of mind. That, or you discover that the radiator really IS in dire need to replacement (possible) and you save your butt from getting stranded on the road. Plus, with the radiator out, you can flush it forwards and backwards sixteen ways to sunday with a garden hose, AND degrease the coils thoroughly to ensure maximum heat dissipation. Road grime insulates the radiator, and "radiator insulation" is about as desirable as my Subaru Supplemental Ventilation System (SSVS, or SubaruSTy for short... )

Steve, what kind of injectors are you running again? I ask because I have a butt-load of 280ZX (mostly NA ZX) injectors that I need to sort through and clean and test, it is a project that has been on my to-do list for a long time... but I havent prioritized it. If you could use some new injectors (IE, double set) I could "get around" to doing this stuff very soon and send you a set out on the cheap.. these are parts I need to move anyhow. PM me if youre at all interested.. I realize that you are likely already running higher flow injectors than what Ive got, but I figured I would offer/mention it.