daeron

its a headful of information, to be sure.

it sounds like you are finding the right path.... General Disorder's advice on "needing" the connectors is spot on. One of the beautiful parts involved in using the EA82 SPFI is the test modes, and the fact that you don't need a code scanner to get your ECU codes. Seriously, how many vehicles come with a stand alone on board diagnostic system? HOW MANY VOLKSWAGENS come with that?

BABE rally, huh????? sounds RIGHT UP my car's alley!!!! and just in case any of you have forgotten my supplemental ventilation system...

See the "Purge Solenoid INSANITY" thread for the resistor values. Well, for a lively DEBATE on the resistor values.

the way I look at it, is I feel the heat that built up in the wiring to the ignition switch when mine went bad. if a soldered connection, with 12 gage wire, can build up that much resistance, *I* prefer to engineer around the point and make that current travel the shortest distance possible. I was almost tempted to pick the 12+ feed for my relay off of the positive battery cable terminal on the starter itself, to even FURTHER minimize wire length... but I didn't. I forget exactly where I picked my fused 12VDC from at the moment... And not all manufacturers/models avoid using a starter relay.. usually just the econoboxes. Granted, econoboxes have smaller starters than hugeass V8s, but still.. If I am re engineering my car, I like to re engineer it better than the people who built it in the first place. After all, THEIR system failed on me (eventually...) Plus, after several weeks (months on the calendar, I lost insurance sometime after my problem started and before I fixed it) of using a screwdriver to start it, I felt like going overboard.

+2

PLEASE even if you run the pushbutton switch, RELAY THE CIRCUIT because it is a FAR superior method, and it bypasses the risk of having high voltage like that flowing through your wire connections, and I would bet money you were planning on crimping them rather than soldering them.. (alot of us do) Relaying is the only way to do it right, even if you DO decide to use a pushbutton. *I* felt a pushbutton was a little tacky, but I am obviously outweighed on that point, so I'll shutup about THAT...

THAT looks excellent, and removes what I felt was a "need" for the dent-stripe along the sides.... I would agree to check it out with the mirros and body kit black, but also try ALL blue with the body kit on... The ground effects REALLY complete the car. I hate afterkarket stuff usually, but most factory body kits appeal to me in the extreme... (the 86 300ZX comes to mind as one obvious example.. as well as our subarus.) Try thinking of different logos or decals you might want instead of the RX.. someone here (I can't recall who right now.. McBrat?) makes them custom, and they come out nice.. I am fairly sure he can do most anything you can email him in high enough resolution. Looking good, this is what computers were made for

the supercharger was my second guess.. but now we all know what MY air conditioning is, huh? :-\ O well, it's not like a majro secret or anything. Mu humble apologies for the misunderstanding, if any offense was taken. I couldn't decide which one you meant, and I went with the humorous one due to General Disorder's accompanying typo.. I think it is understandable at least. What makes a supercharger illegal?? emissions/smog control laws? Thats what made that idea alien to me, I would have no problems driving around a home made blown vehicle where I live...

*I* may have misinterpreted the original "air conditioning" remark, but I took it for a smoke reference. And i'm trying to be subtle about it. Thanks for picking up on the missing "R" there, misledxcracker... *I* left it out on purpose, I think GD failed to notice his typo when I quoted him and failed to catch my point entirely. On an aside, I live in Palm Beach County. Generally speaking, the PB Sheriff Deputies are cool guys.. (my theory is that they take all the pinheads that they hire and stick em in the jail, because the ppl working in the jail are gonna become pinheads eventually anyhow.. you HAVE to be a pinhead to deal with that element...) They don't bust your rump roast too hard for anything that doesn't deserve it.. USUALLY. Lots of city cops are less friendly about it, and more prone to power-tripping.. We have some antiquated municipal expansion laws down here, so the county is divided up into several cities and towns, all of which run together.. Some cities have their own PD, and in those cities its City PD jursidiction.. but in all the unincorporated areas between these municipalities, its PBSO only. In other words, the cities care much more about revenue generation, and the sherriffs care much more about keeping things safe, secure, but not too fascist. I like my local sheriffs.

AWESOME!! I made a difference, and stuff... I am only too glad to help, I try to regurgitate the things that helped all this stuff "click" in my mind hoping it will do the same for someone else. When it does, it makes my day.

Tremclad is a canadian branding of rustoleum. right guys?

I bet those are some SERIOUSLY unmotivated cops down there at the Potland PD Are those the same ones who didn't mind the "air conditioning?"

Honestly.. I would concentrate on using as much camping gear as possible, and setting up the interior of the ride to hold all the stuff in regimentalized areas.. IE, build a set of interior shelves or something on the side to hold your tent, your small sink apparatus, your camp stove and portable grill.. You might look into converting it to run LP Gas, that way you just have to tap the car for fuel for all these gizmos.. then, while you're at it, you could cut the rear up and TOTALLY re customize it to integrate a fuel tank and make the most of your room.. I am thinking almost flatbed-style, with the aim in mind of having something not TOO far removed from the godawful dodge caliber when you are done.... Thats a wild idea, but thats sorta what you asked for, I have thought about this alot actually.. but its all been idle daydreaming.

I know that carbs arent REALLY that complicated.. but that doesn't change the fact that I lack the experience needed to really tune them properly. You need to *know* carburetors, beyond just understanding them. Once you understand Fuel Injection, there isnt much *knowing* to it... because its a computer. It operates on the simple parameters that the FSM outlines.. no more, no less. Run you D-check test mode, and see what codes come up. Take those codes, go thru the book, and run the relevant tests. chances are you either find a bad component, or bad wiring. Wiring is the culprit more often than not. to fix a vehicle with Carbs, you have to know the machine, feel the machine, be the machine... with FI its all just a numbers game. REALLY, its the difference between Analog Induction, and Digital Induction. Honestly, learning the difference between carbs and FI was what really made the difference between analog and digital click in my head. they DID make analog computers, back in the day... but the programming required was FAR too complex for the machinery in use at the time.

my 87 GL10 is a front wheeler, and has a unified Y pipe/catalytic converter.. Well, the point is you are OK to go. Have fun gutting that cat. You might want to skin it, while youre at it... that way the meat doesnt get covered with fur... Good lord, and *I* am a veterinary technician by trade!! I shouldnt be making these kinds of jokes!

if they said two door, its probably a 3 door coupe.. two front doors, a back seat, and a big hatchback.. VERY VAGUELY resembling say, an acura integra type body shape. Nice find, honestly... grab it!!

you know the three basics, fuel compression and spark. you know how engines work. you dont understand the fuel injection??? thats the easiest part. (some of us don't understand how you could get the carbs so well, but cant figure the simpler FI system.) http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm go there, find the EA82 service manual, download AT LEAST part 2. Read chapter 2, section 7, until you start getting into troubleshooting procedures. THAT explains the FI perfectly.. the system is simply some sensors, and a computer, and an injector. The carb meteres air, and proportions the amount of fuel needed, all in hardware.. the COMPUTER monitors the engine/car (throttle position, air being taken in, vehicle speed, a couple other things) and tells the injector how much fuel to squirt in. thats the only difference; carbs work via airflow, venturi principle, and setting the sizes of various orifices.. FI just does it all in software. thats it.

The point was that he needed about 1.5-2 times the power in HP in his engine, as the (rated) kilowatts of the gen head used.. That stands. Not trying to get into a flame war or nothin, I just want it plain that we were ALL on the (same) right path.. :-p

Freakin Wild, man!!!! EDIT Did you see the TOOLBOX in that immaculate BRAT??? where do you get one of THOSE????

Allright, I'll keep running with it... I have a Kayak in desparate need of a mud anchor...... I dont even have any experience with these carbs and I still knock them, heh..

I was gonna suggest taking it to a vet if it hadn't already crossed the line, to put it out of it's misery first.. but discretion prevailed. Joost, he doesnt have access to a welder. anyone know if an ea81 cat has a straight access to it? mine has bends in the Y pipe that would prevent me from removing it and sticking a screwdriver into the end of the pipe and into the cat chamber.... is the EA81 different in that regard?

it might not be as easy as it sounds.. my cat doesnt have a straight pipe entrance to it, but ive got a ea82. hope yours is different, good luck!

Does anybody EVER *need* a hitachi?

IF you DO decide to change the headgaskets, use fel-pro perma torque head gaskets. get the from autozone. cost to me in the store was $40, about the same they are shipped if you buy them online. go to http://www.thepartsbin.com and order the cam case O ring. ASK ME QUESTIONS if you are concerned about getting the right O ring. the headgaskets are NOT a difficult job, as long as you can label the bits you take off so they are all easy to plug back in during re assembly. I had my heads off in one day, spent about two hours cleaning them and the engine on another day, had the heads decked, and spent one more complete day assembling, timing and it cranked on the first shot. It DOES sound like Gloyale might be on to your problem, though... you should be able to see antifreeze in the oil. By the way, that is a good idea.. go get a gallon of antifreeze (get the cheap stuff, but dont get the 50/50 mix) put the ENTIRE gallon into your radiator (drain water out if you need to first) Run for a couple of days or so, then drain your oil and look for antifreeze in the oil. Antifreeze shows up much better than water. If you have no oil in your coolant, and no coolant in your oil, no bubbling, no overheating... head gaskets don't seem to be your problem. Dealer intake manifold gaskets??? dealer only item there..... anything else is made of paper and will fail. Not Might fail, WILL fail quickly. ask prospeeder on this site, he had a pair last for about a month.