daeron

Phiz, It does go without saying that you have inspected the welds on your front end work VERY carefully?? Im mostly concerned for your safety, and I cant help but think about that every time I see this thread...

basically that.. some ingenuity and a brake light switch on the clutch pedal works fine... clutch pedal depressed == neutral, clutch engaged == in gear neutral position switch is one of the most utterly NON critical inputs to the ECU

in turbo variety, or did you mean that they made MPFI NA 91 Loyales?

you hit the nail on the head: the idle switch. Its part of the Throttle position sensor, which has a VERY NARROW window of proper calibration.. you need a set of feeler gauges and an accurate ohm meter to calibrate it, but its a fairly easy process, outlined in the FSM. The FSM refers to it as a "test procedure" but it then goes on to say that should a new unit be needed, it must be adjusted to the specifications used in your "test procedure". If the TPS is off, it will have difficulty idling. If the IAC is in poor shape, it will have trouble idling. If you have any vacuum leaks, it will have trouble idling. (again, trying to brainstorm here, not condescend :-p) anyhow, congrats and good luck.

hmmmmm.. seeing that picture made me curious.... This is my first soob (not counting the BRAT me and my buddy sorta had for a couple months in HS that I have NO serious recollection of) so I am in the dark.. are the SPFI intake manifolds that different from the carb manifolds? are they different at all?? Threadjack, off.

well, he may have... or he may be confused himself. I didn't quite understand your original post until I re, re, RE read it just now (after reading other people saying "it sounds like he's done the EJ swap") Anyhow, my original point DOES still stand.. make sure you get your facts straight.... but yah, JUMP ON IT! even a poor conversion could be fixed and still come out ahead at that kind of price...

peak torque is NOT very high rpms, IIRC.. I've had this same thought for and old datsun engine, since we have those lying around in abundance.. tune one up for optimum efficiency, slap a single carb on it and get me a 20Kw ST gen head, who gives a DAMN about hurricane season, BABY!!! Sorry. that was an uncontrolled outburst... All I wanted to say was that peak torque (or very near it) should be reachable at fairly low RPMs...

Re Read your thread. The answers are already there.

....so... I was wondering. Why isn't this thread dead yet?

I am about 90% certain that all the door lock switches are the same, and that the door lock switch on the driver's side is connected to an actuator that tells the other ones to lock. Only 90% because its all from reading, not from doing. However, I havent *read* anything to contradict that, and I have been reading alot here in the last year.....

HMMMMM... if speedo cable works, then a thick guitar string, or a bass string, would work even better... the windings around the outside of the string work almost like a rasp. Lets just say I have experience using guitar strings to clear out narrow, sticky gummy air passageways.

Far be it from me to contradict GD's assessment of the skill levels involved in the two swaps, BUT I wanted to add that there is something wonderfully simple about these subarus that is INCREDIBLY encouraging to the novice mechanic, and jobs like a transmission change, engine change, or intake change ("change" meaning swap to a different system not installed in your car from the factory as opposed to a straight swap) are ALOT less insurmountable on one of these guys than on say, a ford probe...... or even a honda.

okay okay okay okay.... an externally regulated alt is a different story.... I DO know one thing: you can go to autozone and pickup a remanufactured alternator for a 1975 or 76 datsun 280Z, the guy should ask you if you want a 50 or a 60 amp, and you can get the 60 amp and bolt that sucker straight in. Okay, I am taking a guess at the alternator currently in your car.. does it look like an EA82 alt? this is your alternator? If so, the Datsun alt is externally regulated, 60 amps, and bolts right in. I dont know if the regulator would work with the different alt or not. I can;t help you when it comes to removing the voltage regulator.. i could do it on a Z car, but not on a soob. sorry. Doesn't the USRM have anything about it?

I hate to say it, but sometimes that just means that it has that much more maintenance about to come due, IE, parts are all old and may fail shortly...

go to a junkyard. Find an 86-89 maxima. Remove the alternator, and cut the plug that goes into the back. THIS is the tricky part, you have to find a way to get a pulley on there that will take a V-belt like the soob has, and you have to get a pulley that will be lined up with the location of the pulley on the stock alt. Simple answer is to go to a local auto electric shop and see if they can help; alternately, bring a pipe wrench out to a junkyard, make sure you show them you maxima alternator, and start pulling alternators apart on cars until you can find a pulley and spacer (or a one piece assembly) and then put it on your maxima alt. Try test fitting it in a soob in the boneyard, if at all possible. MY maxima alternator, I had to slip the belt onto before threading both bolts.. but it fit fine and tightened up no problem. Splice the maxima plug onto your wiring harness any way you choose, but the best route is to replace the entire old charging wire (the thick wire in the plug that goes up to the fusible link block) The Maxima Alternator in question is a 90 amp, not 100... but who's counting? its ALOT more than 60, which is what your stocker runs... There are options, but the simplest one is either this, or the XT6 alternator.. and the XT6 alt needs a new pulley, too, AND is more difficult to find in a boneyard. Search my name and maxima for more detailed information.

I think no loyale made in 1991 had MPFI.. IIRC, they didnt even make turbo loyales.. something smells fishy here, although it may just be that its actually an Spfi not an Mpfi.. if its a GL it doesn't have the EJ in it. As a matter of fact, if its a '91 it shouldnt BE a GL, it should be a loyale... investigate further, but it sounds like it may be allright, depending on the trans/driveline. Just get the facts..

Good point, I always forget that 87 was a changing year for some of those other chassis models.. I have an 87 GL10 SPFI so I always assume an 87 gl or better is SPFI like mine, unless its turbo.

yah optical Crank Angle Sensor type

http://www.elgincams.com/campaper.html beautiful article.. alot of it is sure to be old hat to alot of you, some of it was old hat to me.. but I imagine most of us would at LEAST appreciate the cam builder's perspective on how an internal combustion engine goes together. The vast majority of us have alot to learn, though Enjoy edit--after posting I realized it wasn't subaru-specific, so if it is somewhat off-topic, my apologies... I would imagine the content of the article is technical enough that it warrants going here, though. If any mods want to move the thread, or if anyone wants to post it in the other gen threads, feel free.

*envy* there is an XT6 for sale by the original owner with 139K on it up in tampa.. needs a clutch, airbags in the back, and leaks oil, the guy wants a grand for it.. Sigh, if only... Nice gun, there, toots

What octane fuel do you run? I just replaced my HGs, engine is looking b-e-a-utiful inside, and I still have to run 93 octane....

uhm..... it should be fine?? Possibly, you freed up some gunk in the tank and clogged the fuel filter or the fuel pump pickup screen??? The only problem with burning alcohol is time and plastics/rubber.. which is why it is wise to dilute it with fuel and run it out of your tank quickly afterwards. it isnt a super-critical thing, though..... If anyone contradicts me, I may well be wrong on it.. I am no guru, but I wouldn't be saying this if it weren't true to the best of my knowledge.. Try checking the filter and the pickup screen. to "check" your fuel filter without changing it, remove it by taking the top hose off first, and doing your best to keep the top hole plugged up while you unhook the bottom hose. Put a finger over the bottom hole as quickly as possible, and have a glass jar handy to catch the fuel that comes out. Dump all the fuel out of the INLET side of the filter (bottom side) and see if a load of crud comes out... it WILL be somewhat foul, but you are looking for major blockages. Chances are, after doing this and seeing what comes out of your fuel filter, you will change it anyhow.. but I have never had a problem that was actually caused by a clogged fuel filter... I have replaced them thinking it might solve a problem, and it is something you DO have to do to rule it out, but give that a shot. The pickup screen is the more likely candidate. If those check out, I can't think of any more to help you...

My 102 was in a SPFI 3at on flat, level ground.. and I know I still had another five I couldve gotten out of her. and THAT was with the aerodynamic restrictions of my rustbucket!!! (read: the two HUGE rustholes behind the rear quarter panel windows.. I can reach my arm into them, thru the speaker holes, and wave at you from inside the cabin while standing outside the car ) I should say that I *was* on a deserted toll road driving across the Florida Peninsula south of Lake Okeechobee (read: thru the everglades, FLAT flat ground) and I was also pulled over by a Florida Highway Patrolman about ten miles after I slowed down to 80 in a 70 zone... talk about a close call!

Rich, What GD meant was that Injector Failure and ECU failure are both EXTREMELY uncommon failures.... 95% of the problems with this engine when fuel injected, are either: TPS, CTS connections, dirty MAF, blown intake manifold gasket, blown timing belt, blown headgasket, or missing a distributor rotor screw. OK, maybe only 85%, but still...... The word on the street is, pretty well the only way to fry an ECU is to connect battery cables backwards (this fries them quickly and easily) and POTENTIALLY disconnecting the positive cable while the engine is running. That being the case, the fact that you've already run into one sticking injector GREATLY reduces the odds that you've got another one. Not only that, but the fact that you had one of the uncommon problems lowers your odds of having another uncommon failure. That's why he is using the language he is. The FSM should tell you how to test the injector firing signal. GD, this system drops the firing signal down to the appropriate voltage inside the ECU? I know my Datsun has a separate "dropping resistor" to do that, but the Datsun ECU switches ground to the injectors and feeds them constant positive voltage thru the resistor...

http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm there you will find a link to two .pdf files that containt the engine section from the 89 FSM. that might be of some assistance