daeron

also true. Usually at least an alphanumeric size code, and those are fairly universal among manufacturers AFAIK (ie 6001-z)

check for voltage at the fuse panel for the right headlight. My guess is that the right side circuit is totally dead for some reason, USUALLY because of a relay... If the right side gets blown, it still picks up some power from the left side circuit.. this is commonly the case in headlight problems. I went around for a month or so with one dime headlight in my datsun once, because I thoughtit was some serious wiring problem.. in the end, it was just a bad wire coming out of the fuse panel to supply the one dim headlight, and it was making NO connection.. all the light in my dim headlight was bleeding off of the other circuit.

I have to confirm that I have right and left sides, yet.. :-\ so that will take until monday or tuesday.. but I can't say it would be too much. I'll PM you when I confirm that they are not ALL one side. that would suck, and I am glad I thought to double check before arranging to sell them to you...

a low-cost option is to simply replace the bearings, if you can get the assembly taken apart. It is more than possible, but I don't know how to do it myself. Once you get the bearing out you take it to a store that will supply that kind of stuff and just match it up by size. You could go to a good Napa maybe? Napa down here SUCKS but I gather they are a different store up north. Radio Shack sucks down here, too. Just thought I would throw that in for posterity's sake. I replaced my belts, because they snapped at 106K. I really must find out if those belts were the originals... I should be able to, PO was my ASE certified older brother, and the PO before that was his mother in law....

I always forget to MENTION the range of the multimeter, sorry, the CTS was 1.75 K Ohms. at about 90-95*. sorry It is neither, it seems THROTTLE dependent.. if I am already going at say, 3K rpms, and give it *some* throttle, it seems to go bleah..... I have to give it plenty of throttle. As I said in my first post though, its not the position of the gas pedal that makes the difference (like it would be with a bad spot in the TPS) It is the amount of accelerating that I try to do, the throttle position relative to where I would need to hold it to cruise at current RPM. Judgin from the symptoms, my first guesses were the fuel pickup or the TPS. the TPS checks out, and that was really just to rule that out anyhow. After that, secondary diagnoses would be Fuel pressure or air flow meter. Ive changed the MAF, and have not checked fuel pressure. Guess whats next? Oh yah, while I am at it, I've heard of people taking the boot off of their TB to watch the injector spraying.. I take it that this is something done while the engine is NOT even TRYING to actually start?? (since you would be flowing nothing but unmetered air into the car?) I feel dumb, but I've been trying to figure out how you get to watch the spray pattern on your TBI car for many years now... just never asked anyone. I just pop the boot off, have someone crank the engine over, and watch, huh?

you dont disconnect the TPS, you have to make sure that the idle switch is on.... right? the FSM says to ensure that the idle switch is working properly, so I take that to mean that the TPS HAS to be connected

EXCELLENT shot.. I haven't seen a good april fool's joke in several YEARS, and I didn't see this coming for a mile..... Thanks!

I THINK it was McBrat's "upgrades to the hatch" thread that was being discussed, and it involved changing to the round headlights in his case as well. IF, by chance you wanted to do the round headlights, I have a supply of new old stock headlight buckets that I need to get rid of.. my uncle acquired a cache of old subaru parts in a warehouse, all of them new, from a dealer who closed down here locally about 15-20 years ago.... to us its junk that takes up space, but if we can move some of it...

Thanks, I like to try to avoid having extra questions to answer. I'm trying to make it more simple, too, without the involved stories, and just the facts.. In short, I cant believe that I am actually asking how to run a D check test, but the stupid book now has me questioning whether I have ever done it "right" or not... as for mt CTS, i would REALLY like to know why the harness reads that kind of impedance.. something tells me that I may have found a problem. it shouldnt have any continuity, to the best that I can figure... Eh, I'll figure it out.

i ping if i dont. at least, I did before the HG, and it always did for my brother while he drove it. I honestly wonder if that might be what i am experiencing now... but I dont hear any noises that would typically be associated with it, and it also has the odd off-idle stumbling.. the stumble is almost like the timing isnt set quite right, but I did it with a light. I simply mean that, it is a stumble that was worsened as the tmimng was adjusted away from spec.. i dont know if i could advance it any more??? might that help? ignition timing is one thing I don't quite grok yet. I understand how the flame kernel takes X seconds to travel across the combustion chamber and all, where the entire combustion storke gets quicker and quicker at higher RPMs.. i just dont really understand how it all comes together well enough to start tweaking it. Are my posts too rambling and difficult to follow? If so, please speak up and say so... I won't take offense.

i noticed that the troubleshooting chart I referenced you to says different things, about the CEL coming on in different ways, while doing a D check mode. That made me think about what you were trying to describe to me.. of course, by today I couldnt recall the EXACT situation you were having, but you said the CEL was just coming on and staying on, or something.. so read the asterisk'ed parts, and read them fourteen more times if you have to to understand them (good old translators)

I have wondered this same thing about his problem, and my own vehicle.. but this would be caused by.. overfilling the transmission? remedied by flushing?

Okay.. this is a problem that I had before I did my headgaskets. The bad hedgasket made it worse; repairing the bad headgasket made my car run ALOT better, but it still seems to putz out at mid throttle. 1987 EA-82, SPFI. For the purposes of this post, "full throttle" is not WOT, "mid throttle" is not halfway open on the butterfly.. I am speaking in relative terms.. IE, full throttle is the point where, you can punch the pedal further, but you arent getting any more acceleration. It seems to overcome its difficulty whenever I push it to full throttle.. (NOT WOT mind you... just "full") and I am trying to track it down. it just loses power at mid throttle acceleration.. I mean, loses it, almost seems to starve for fuel when I hit the gas, unless i hit it far enough. Off idle response is not the greatest, either. I am running 93 octane fuel, but I cant rule out pinging because the thing has plenty of other noises that keep me from being able to say with confidence that I don't hear anything that would lead me to believe it was predetonating. The plugs could probably use renewal, but they arent too bad. Less than two years old, but they seem fine. I have to pull them and see what they look like. Fuel filter has been changed lately Cap, Rotor, Wires have been changed lately (and they look good, and the screw is intact) Timing is set dead on, 20* BTDC per FSM procedure check the fuel filter pickup screen, no problems. Checked TPS function and idle switch, no problems changed O2 sensor, but disconnecting it makes no difference in my run condition. Checked MAF function, and changed it anyhow. Cleaned IAC checked CTS. Now, when I went to check my CTS at cold temperature, I inadvertently grabbed the BODY SIDE plug first and checked THAT resistance value.. and got 2.3K ohms!!!! why?? The vehicle was off at the time. I checked the resistance value of the CTS itself and it weighed in at 1.75K ohms (the car is somewhat warm, not FULLY cooled off yet... estimate at about 95 degrees fahrenheit. Air temps are in the mid eighties down here today.) I need to run a D-check, but now I am debating the validity of any D check I have run in the past because I read my FSM in much more detail than I have in the past. Apparently, I am supposed to warm the car up, turn it off, connect the green plugs, confirm that the pump is cycling, fully depress the accelerator pedal, return it to half throttle position for 2 seconds, then fully release it... THEN start the engine. If the CEL goes out (as it should when the engine starts) then I am supposed to drive at speeds greater than 5 mph for a minute.. ensure the engine reaches speed over 1500 RPM, check the CEL for blinking, and if its blinking... This is where I get lost. I have nothing in memory, never had a CEL come on.. so I just pull over and check the O2 lamp, right????? All I ever did before, was warm the car up, plug the green connectors in, make sure I ran the engine over 2 grand for a minute, until the CEL blinks, then read my codes. So, why is that last paragraph I wrote, so much shorter than the one preceding it? What all do I have to do to ensure a good D check test? Also, why am I reading 2.2 K ohms on the harness plug for my CTS? is this normal? that was with the key off, btw. This issue has me totally stumped. I have checked everything but wiring... and it just CANT be wiring, i dont have the giveadam to go through all my wiring.. anyhow, will run D check as soon as I get a decent answer on that and willcheck CTS (again) in a little bit. thanks all.

Cracker, YOU need to go to chapter 2, section 7, page 20 in the partial FSM, and examine the troubleshooting chart. at the top of the chart, there are a couple of asterisks.. *, *1, *2, and *3. I think your CEL behavior might be related to one of those, and that might help you with your diagnosis. These Japanese FSMs are like a special tool in their own right. it takes ALOT of working with them before you can FULLY understand, and utilize them.

Mind if I ask, why??? when I had to wear big heavy work boots, I left them off until I got to the jobsite.. and I have an Auto!! I honestly enjoy driving barefoot. Ever see what driver's shoes look like? picture slippers. Just curious, thats all.

Well, what exactly was meant by this post??? THIS was all I took to mean "rear ENGINE" I know all about making the 4wd into a RWD, thats a simple enough idea... I guess he meant a more standard type four wheel drive, with primary bias to the rear wheels, and a T-case driving the fronts when 4wd was engaged? I just have this mid engined CRX idea in mind and cannot shake it. It started with the idea of a twin engine'd soob.. two FWD drivelines, equals four wheel drive, right? I know, thats absurd.. BUT the whole mid engine'd soob powered CRX idea is one I cant shake from my head, since my brother has a gutted 88 CRX HF that weighs 1700 pounds.... can you say, turbocharged EA81? 120-150 hp in a 1700 pound car is like, 220-260HP in a 3000 pound car. like I said before, mid engine puts ALL the weight between the two axles, so it would be great weight distribution.. Heck, if you could make a rear based 4wd system that much better, but I guess the point was, you cant do that. Anyhow, I guess I got my misunderstanding.

bump for an answer on "are different years' ECUs entered into D-check through different procedures?" I am now curious for myself, since I am trying to isolate my own odd mid-throttle hesitation. I've run D-checks in the past simply by warming up the engine , turning it off, connecting my connectors and running at over 2K RPM for the prescribed amount of time, my CEL starts flashing and I get code outputs. If this is all happening, then the fact that I;ve done nothing with the pedal doesnt have any bearing??? right? CEL flashing after a minute of non idle engine operation means D check mode has been achieved?

Ach, nevermind.... I did some searching, discovered that my impression was correct, found a better way to clamp the line off, and looked closer into the pump inlet with better light. I see the screen now.. but it isn't my problem. Sigh. My problems never have these simple causes.....

Okay, I had gotten the impression somehow that there was a fuel pickup screen on the intake for the EA-82 SPFI fuel pump. I just went, pinched off my line from the tank to the pump, and tried to see if I could clean mine out. Now, I am precious low on fuel, and dont have a good sleection of tools; the only pair of vise grips here at my house totally failed to adequately pinch off my fuel line. Hoever, in the moment that I DID have to look, I didnt notice a pickup screen in the inlet of the pump. Theres GOTTA be some sort of pre-pump screen.. where is it? on the tank side of the fuel pump supply line? if so, how do I check that, just set up a catch pan to catch all of my fuel that spills out? I am off to do a search now, but thanks for any posts on the subject. Time saving, and all.

he has gone through a great deal of testing and swapping with TPS units, he has tested the wires from the TPS connector to the ECU harness, Im pretty sure he has tested proper resistance values directly at the CPU... he says he has wiggled the wires all sorts of ways while the engine was idling low, he also had a problem with one TPS lsoing the idle contact when fully screwed in. He mentioned to me that he currently has his negative battery cable connected to a chassis ground, and no engine to chassis ground beyond that. I told him to ground the engine to the chassis battery ground point. That is what he is doing next, at least... I am stumped on how to help him further. If you say he needs to do what you say to get into D check mode, then he needs to do it; I've never done more than run it uver the RPMS for the prescribed time in my driveway. are the different ECUs slightly different in that regard??

huh? its not that difficult to convert it to mid engine, rear drive.. just, move it all back and have the engine immediately behind the drivers seat. Think CRX, with a firewall right behind the drivers seat like a fiero or MR2. The ENTIRE driveline is between the axles.. I mean, instead of rotating the engine, slide it back. You'd need to do something about a radiator, and in the end your transmission tailshaft is gonna be pointed the same direction as your taillights (and almost that far back) but it would work... I mean, I say "not that hard" with a HUGE grain of salt.. but you wouldnt have to spin the driveline around and make the crankshaft point towards the back like a volkswagen.. that was my point.

Who told you that, a motorcycle mechanic? a bicycle mechanic? I've never heard of chain drive systems on automobiles... not modern ones at least

Thats easy then. get a test light, and find one that has +12v to it. Take that wire and touch it to the other wires, with an assistant standing behind the car. When you find the wire that will turn the backup lights on, just plug the 12V+ line into one side of the tranny switch, and the line going to the backup lights to the other side of the tranny switch.

Run a D-check again.. You already checked the Idle Air Controller, right? If not, its the little cylinder mounted horizontally on the front of the throttle body. You would probably benefit from picking up a cheapo fuel pressure gauge and mounting it under the hood to make sure your FP is adequate.. I think I am nearing that point as well. With a carbed car, its easy enough.. if the pump is on and pumping some fuel up there, its probably good enough. FI *needs* that high pressure, at a very RIGIDLY pre determined pressure level, to function right.

He was describing a supercharger. a compressor that feeds compressed air into the intake... :-p