daeron

have you checked the ecu output for the injector signal while ignition is in start? You did specifically mention checking the injector voltage then, but i couldn't find if you said you checked the ECU pin for voltage while cranking, too... To the best of my knowledge, there is no "dropping resistor" or anything else in line between the injector and the ECU; but the injector may receive a grounding signal from the ECU and get constant positive voltage elsewhere.. It may be that you've got your injector wired backwards. I searched the FSM and GD's SPFI conversion writeup briefly, and couldn't discover an answer to the polarity of the signal from the ECU to the injector, but I suggest also checking for continuity between ground and the injector "firing" pin from the ECU.. it may be that the ECU is switching ground to the injector when you are looking for it to switch 12V+.

by all means, swap a five speed of some sort in there rather than scrap the car.. a tranny swap isnt THAT complicated. If you don't want to do it, someone else will.

honestly, fuel injection systems are almost all as simple as this one... FI, to alot of us youngsters, is much easier to understand than carburetors.. less vagueness. Its all a matter of numbers.. the computer takes numbers from varying sensors, and calculates the numbers it needs for spark and fuel supply. If your sensors are off, then the numbers will be off. The 80's Soob SPFI is just a wonderfully simplistic device that doesn't allow itself to get too complex, plus it has the on board diagnostics with ECU LED readout rather than needing an OBD scanner. You picked a great project to familiarize yourself with FI systems. I am a Datsun guy, and I have a pdf on my computer that is the "fuel injection bible" for the Bosch L-jetronic fuel injection installed on my 75 280Z.. despite the fact that it was tailor written to the particular subsystems installed on the Z, its a FANTASTIC read on L-jetronic system operation, and the L-jetronic FI system is basically what is used on virtually all modern cars.. maybe the last 3-6 years have seen something of a departure from that, but as far as Fuel Injection Theory goes, its worth reading. PM me with your email address and I can email it to you, if at all interested.

the IAC is a small cylinder mounted horizontally on the front of the throttle body. All you have to do is remove it from the throttle body, remove the solenoid from the valve, and ensure they move easily.. this code is often generated not by a faulty valve, but by faulty wiring.. so don't be too surprised if you clean it, it seems fine, you replace it, and still have a code. Cleaning it is definitely step one though.

yes, the partial FSM is the entire engine section, and in Part2 you will find the fuel injection chapter. This system is equipped with some wonderful stuff, for such a low-budget simple little computer. However, it sounds like a new injector assembly may be in order since you've already disassembled this one and discovered a bad o-ring. if you can't find a link to the FSM, I will put one here, too.. http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm Good luck, it shouldn't be that difficult... if you've gotten this far before running into any problems, you obviously know what end of a wrench to use.

BURN!!!

or junkyard?

Nice!!! I got a brand new single core radiator, as well as a NIB disty cap, rotor and wires one time at a u-pull-it by my house about 8 months ago.. nothing like finding that car that someone *tried* to fix the overheating problem on before it went to the boneyard, eh? I wouldn't buy the ENGINE out of that car, but the radiator's gotta be good

If I am picturing it right, this pipe intrudes up above the plane of the manifold?? If so, then that sounds like your failure point right there. If all else fails grind it flat.

hey, you want an idea that may seem a little shady to some?? Go to the junkyard you got the pump from, find another ford, and take that fitting and check valve off of another pump. Put it in your pocket, go home and fix the faulty pump they already sold you. Easy enough.. I know you've already run into stupid bumps in the road on this, but this one isn't too major to overcome. Good call taking the fitting off, check valves are a common failure point in ANY type of pump.

This is a very simple little task that I can accomplish in my driveway, at home, with a limited selection of tools, right? Something that shouldn't take an hour from the time the jack comes out to washing my hands? I don't enjoy getting into major jobs in my driveway that I am not already well acquainted with, because my house is not my workshop; I have little more than the tools I keep in the car at all times unless I am up at "the shop." (My family rents and keeps a common garage now that my brothers and I are all grown) So I just wanted to make sure this was as simple as I anticipated before I jumped in. (unless I have some sort of major rust/plumbing repair that is unforeseeable, knock on wood...)

Trying to help you out, but its hard long distance with something like this. If I get condescending, and start telling you things you already know, please forgive A couple definitions for the sake of my post here.. Input line == fuel line from tank to pump prime == just make sure theres fuel in that hose vise-grip == preferrably a needle nose vise grip, or anything that can sufficiently clamp the line shut but is easily removable Also, careful for your eyes. gasoline in your eyes isnt fun, it gets all in your sinuses and everything.. if you DO get gas in your eyes/nose, flush your eyes with plain saline solution (find someone who has contact lenses) and if its in your nose, tilt your head back, inhale the same saline solution, and hoark it all out. repeat that flush in each nostril until your head feels somewhat clear. (I do this all the time just when I have a cold; its ESPECIALLY helpful when youve got something like gas in your face) One thing you could try is to prime your input line, clamp some vise grips on there as near to the fuel pump end as possible, then fit the line on, clamp it, and see if you get a good stream of fuel.. Isnt the pickup in the bottom of the tank? if so, then the line should be somewhat self priming.. make sure there is plenty of gas in the tank, and that youve got the cap off so air can fill the void left by fuel draining out.. Make sure you can get a good steady stream of fuel gravity feeding out of the line, then clamp it like I said, and attach it to the pump. I hope this helps. It sounds like you have already confirmed adequate fuel pump operation, so it shouldnt be too hard to get it primed and running.

BONUS!! awesome link, there!! thanks a bunch, that one is bookmarked.

I said that, too.. but its not much more breathing power, and you are still stuck with the same flow design within the heads themselves... to REALLY get any more power out of an EA-82, its gonna take some serious grinding and changing the cylinder head, and I am not entirely certain its even possible. I didn't remove my valves when I had my heads off for the gasket job, so I don't even KNOW if there is meat to be ground away; but the engine just was not made to breathe, it was made to get good fuel mileage, reliable low end torque, and be an econobox.... improvements can be made, but don't expect much. A nissan SR-20, this is not.

Well my friend, you're only 19 right? necessity is the mother of invention; if this is the first time you've had to rig something like this, then take your time. Not all "ghetto-rig" jobs are as bad as they sound. Its not hard to find a way to secure it down, try going to a junkyard and finding something it will bolt to, then drill holes in the bracket you find to put the pump on, that match the mounting point so you can hang it where it belongs. patience, comrade. thats all it takes. its not hard to re-engineer this.

also make sure the pulse coil thingy that hangs in front of the compressor pulley is installed, plugged in, and somewhat lined up parallel to the plain described by the motion of the face of the pulley.. I'm not *entirely* certain what exactly it does, but I know the compressor needs to see the proper signal from that thing to turn on and stay on.

not I, but I would love it

I've never personally seen it, but it is my understanding that you can unbolt the ford pump from some of it's associated bracketry and then bolt it into the sleeve that held the original pump... don't be intimidated by any sort of large jacket that may be on the ford pump..something SHOULD be removable to make it more similarly sized to the subaru pump. And if all else fails, take the stock shelf off, drill some holes in it, buy some 6" hose clamps, and thread them through some holes to hold it onto the stock shelf.

ALLRIGHT, allright, I will taint the thread with a couple shots of the SS Tetanus 1987 GL-10 (I think of it more as a GL-5) SPFI, Front Wheeler, 3-speed auto.. the digidash, (ech) sunroof, trip computer, factory cruise, and power locks/windows are its only redeeming qualities... and her bad side... I shall say again, the undercarriage of this car looks BEAUTIFUL, and this car was ziebarted () the rust is ALMOST all WYSIWYG.. the only hidden spots are under the windshield; a stray piece of gravel is most likely going to be the deatchknell of this chassis one day..... but the frame is solid as a rock.

I just finally read this thread all the way through, and all there is to say is this... You are one of the ultimate old-skool gear-heads, man.. you have taken everything you liked from 10-12 years of subaruism, and built it into your own vehicle. What a machine you are making, my friend... the suspension mods, the gearbox, the engine swap... I *really* must suggest that once you get all the bugs worked out, you pull the engine out and paint the engine bay, or spray it with a liner of some sort.. This beast deserves to look like she is brand new once you are done, because she will be in all essential aspects. a 2007 Phizinza Brumbeast! Have you ever looked into the foam roller/Rustoleum enamel painting idea? it seems like a good way to get a tough, yet attractive paint job on the cheap. Unless I am mistaken, the CEL should come on when you turn the key to on, before trying to start it. If it doesn't, it is usually a sign that there is something wrong with the light circuit itself. I'm not sure if you have really ironed that bug out yet, but I thought I would mention it. Here's to hoping I can accomplish my goals on my Z (once I get to start) as completely as you have accomplished (are accomplishing) yours! oh yah, and brothers are a great resource, aren't they?

I took my GL-10 up to 102, and she still had five or so to go.. thats a 2wd, 3at NA SPFI 87 GL-10 sedan.

Sorry I was lazy about doing the math, but to answer your question, yes, some sensor failures certainly could cause this sort of problem. Visit the USRM (link at the top right of the page) and go to the engine electrical section, and find the write up on pulling the codes off of the ECU. There is also a diagnostic mode of the ECU that you can use to isolate further potential issues. Are you having any other running issues? accelerating good, no backfire? Pull your plugs, what do they look like?

Thank you!!! THAT was exactly what I was looking for. I thought I had read something about that, and this was the simplest way for me to find out.

the symptoms I am having are still (some of) the same that I was experiencing before the HG job, so i cannot see that anything went south in doing that. The run condition improved IMMENSELY after replacing the HGs.. It doesnt help that I have had between 5 and 1 1/2 gallons of fuel in the tank virtually for six months... I mean, i havent had more than a quarter tank since september, and I have been running each tank down to the last drop. I mean the last drop, too.. I know exactly how far I can go before I run out of fuel, and there is still about a gallon or so left in the tank at that point. The CTS, I checked; but it tested right (function-wise) and my car isn't a turbo; I was told the connection is predominantly a turbo car issue... Even so, the connections look beautiful, like brand new... NO complaints there, and even still I tried spraying, cleaning, wire jiggling, the whole nine yards to no effect. I've replaced the TPS with a junkyard unit already; so I HAVE experienced a bad TPS problem, and it isn't the same as it had been before. Also, when I fixed my TPS problem, it got alot better... but I had hoped it would improve more than it did. I inspected the cap and rotor, and actually gave them a light resurfacing, while I was doing the HGs. Another DISTINCT possibility is a coil issue, since I had been bubbling out of my reservoir for eight months that ENTIRE quadrant of my engine bay is covered in a rusty haze, and I *certainly* need to make sure none of the corrosion is having a negative effect on my ignition system. It starts right up. It usually runs fine, but it often has this bogging issue... it seems more prevalent when there is less fuel in the tank. I am normally really good at symptom recognition and summary.. I mean, even if *I* can't figure out the cause of problem, I can usually generate a good report of what my issue is to get help; this one is REALLY off the wall, and I can't pin it down enough to REALLY communicate what I am experiencing to you guys.. I definitely need to check: Codes (haven't done since the HGs..) TPS Fuel Pressure, not just adequacy but consistent adequacy Coil connections Cap/rotor type stuff Fuel Filter and Actually electrically test the MAF, but changing MAFs didnt make a bit of difference so I doubt that I say I know when I am going to run out of gas.. this is because the car tells me when I go around a turn to fast on empty.. anyone experience that? you hit the accelerator, and it just the-THUG-thug, the-THUG-thug, spit spit THUGTHUGTHUG VROOM.. except getting the Vroom to come in isn't easy. throttle position seems to make a difference, but its relative throttle position, not absolute throttle position.. I mean, flooring it usually makes it over the hump the best and the quickest.. but I say "flooring" and I mean pushing the gas down far enough that it would be at full acceleration... not necessarily full WOT, but that point where normally, if you hit the gas any further you really arent making it accelerate any quicker... Like I said, the data I am getting on this issue is really fuzzy, and I can't interpret it well wnough to even communicate it to you guys. I have been half-assedly trying for a couple months, now, but I just can't do it.. the video I took wasn't that helpful, but maybe I will try that again... Thanks for doing all this reading, everyone.. I am REALLY stressed out right now so my communication skills aren't up to snuff, and I am long winded on the best days... sorry if this is confusing.