eryque

Not sure what the problem was, but it's working now. Found the power connector and at first didn't measure any voltage, then later I did, then I didn't again. Took the motor out and connected directly to the batter and it worked, so I put it back together and it's working again. Maybe one of the wires has become fragile or something.

It doesn't work on any combination of fan speed or vent setting. I'll take a look behind the glove box and see what I can see.

Got in the car this morning and the fan won't blow! No heat, no defroster, no a/c, no nothing! The a/c switch will turn on and the motor bogs down a little, so that seems like it's working. Is the heater fan used for a/c as well? I checked the fuses under the dash and they're fine, so I'm guessing that the problem is either the fan or the relay. Where are these located? I downloaded the FSM but it doesn't seem to say anything about the environmental controls. 98 Impreza.

Well, I really envisioned some sort of device (like a super duper heavy duty warn winch) to allow the whole car to decend into the depths

Take another look. It says caver. I think he uses that heavy duty bumper to lower the whole car down into the caves to go 4x4 spelunking.

Man, I want a push bar too! Where'd you get it?

Very cool. Thanks. Now I understand perfectly and have something new to lust after

That makes sense. So how do driving lights compare to your built-in high-beams? Are they even brighter? Are they legal to use while driving?

What exactly are driving lights? What are they supposed to be used for? They seem to be sold differently than fog lights, even though the driving lights they sell look to be the right size to install as fog lights.

Thanks for the explanation I guess nobody gets a turbo because they want extra gas mileage, so it makes sense that they tune it to produce as much power as possible.

I thought a turbo would increase your mpg as long as you don't drive it like it's a sports car. I thought pushing all that extra air into the engine would make it more efficient when driving normally, and provide extra power when you want it. No?

Aha! That's good to know. I'd better stick with Forester struts, then. I wish KYB published specs for their struts so I could figure it out for myself.

My Impreza needs struts and I want to lift it a little bit. I saw AndyJo's project with the Forester struts to gain a couple of inches and want to go that way. KYB has many, many different models. How can I tell which will work on my 98 Impreza? It looks like I can go through an ebay store and save 20-25% over what the other online parts stores are charging.

Truedat. At least that's what people are asking for them. It's hard to say what they're actually selling for. My 98 Impreza was listed at $4500, but I got it for $3000. One other question I didn't think to ask: how quickly do you need to sell? If you can wait, list it high and wait for someone to bite, but be prepared to wait a month or more. If you need or want to sell it faster, list it lower.

I looked quickly and didn't see anything bent, but I don't really know what I'm looking at yet. I did notice that the rear sway bar can be wiggled just by grabbing it. It seems awfully thin compared to the front sway bar. The tires are the same type and show the same amount of wear. I inflated them all the same, 44 PSI. It's not quite as bad as it was before when the tires were all down around 35 PSI.

I'd list it at $3750 and be hopeful that you get $3000 for it, but not surprised if you get closer to $2500.

How do you tell if they're bad? Get the weight off the rear wheels and wang on the lateral and trailing links and see if they wiggle?

How many miles, which engine, which transmission, and which trim level? What's the maintenance history? These are the key elements in determining the price. Edmunds.com, KBB.com, and NADA.com will also give you ballpark ideas, but right now their prices seem to be over inflated on everything.

My 98 Impreza L has a tendancy to oversteer and fishtail around turns a little bit. It's most noticable when I hit a bump in the middle of the turn, and is more pronounced in turns to the left than the right. Start a turn, hit a bump, and then feel the rear end swing around a little bit. It also seems to exhibit more bounce on the right rear when I hit a bump, like that tire is bouncing like a basketball after a bump on the highway. I'm thinking that I've got a bad strut or two. Could there be a different problem?

Wouldn't those have already been wired in? The wiring harness for the computer and servo were. There is a 2nd connector taped to the existing brake switch, but it doesn't fit the female half that's installed. I wonder if there's a different computer for the MT vs. AT? I'm not positive which type this came from.

I bought the parts to install cruise control for my Impreza. All were OEM and from someone else's part-out. I finally got it installed and overcame all the mechanical challenges, but the system won't even turn on. I'm hoping someone here will be able to help. Here's what I installed: -Cruise Control computer -Control switch on steering wheel -Servo -Vacuum nipple for intake manifold. Am I missing another part? Is there something else I need to do? I checked the fuse and it is good.

FWIW, my last Subaru was a '95 Legacy wagon that I bought with 195,000 miles on it. Other than things that you'd expect to wear out ona 10+ year old car with high miles, it was very reliable. It would still be running if I hadn't been an rump roast about neglecting the timing belt. Now, at the end of its life it did need brakes, a cat (the flange on the pipe had rusted away, but the cat itself was good), and had some body rust in the typical places. Porcupine, are you sure about doing the tight turns at idle in a MT car? I'm pretty sure that my Impreza would stall out running at low speed and in gear at idle.

The fastest, absolute bestest way is to just buy another soldering gun. You'll never do it very well with a jury-rigged setup and you'll like burn something else. Radio Shack or anywhere they sell tools should be able to hook up up for under $10.

Does the circuit shut off altogether, or is it like hitting the cancel switch and you just have to set your speed again?

I had a bit of an emergency so I had to button it back together without replacing the mounts. The problem I was having is gone now, though, so maybe one of the bolts wasn't torqued down right. This car got a replacement engine last winter, so maybe the mechanic who installed it missed one, or maybe something worked loose. In any case, it no longer goes THUNK when I stick the clutch pedal in too abrubtly or stop too quickly.