porcupine73

I think it ran 15$ each return shipping included for the 'premium' service; they have all info on their web site. Turn around time was, I think I sent them out Thursday (priority mail flat rate envelope) and I received them back on Monday or Tuesday. Only issue I had was they sent them back insured, so post office wouldn't deliver them without my signature, that delayed my getting them by a couple days.

Thanks for the info! Hm...simple, cheap, I'll give it a go

Anyone into fuel injector servicing/cleaning? I sent the injectors from my '00OBW to witchhunter performance for their cleaning and flow service. They came back nice and spiffy with new o-rings and stuff. I had new OEM o-rings and other seals on hand anyways. They replaced the little filter jobbies in them too and sent back flow test results. Showed a little more flow after service; but I think they were fine even when I sent them in.

What kind of seal puller/method do ya'll use to pull the cam and crank seals? Pictures and links would be appreciated. I've never pulled a seal before; I have a Lisle seal puller, but it seems like it's kind of big for this job (maybe more suitable for wheel bearing seals er somethin). -Louis

Cam sprocket tool arrived today, posting a pic for reference, about $61 ('credit card price) plus shipping from SVX Kent Moore. No more bent cam sprockets from the chain wrench!

Thanks for all the info guys. I removed the oil pump over the weekend. Anyway, long story short, the bad news is I bent the casing getting it out but the good news is I ordered a new oil pump that'll be here Thursday! I forget one of the rules of car work, namely to make certain that ALL of the bolts securing an assembly to the vehicle are removed BEFORE prying like a madman. Anywho, I was able to get out all the screws on the back cover (some were a little bit loose), except one, which I promptly stripped out. But my never fear screw extractor ripped it out OK. The rotors clearance actually was borderline to the service manual limit actually so I probably would've replaced the rotors anyway, which is only half the price of the whole new pump. Also thanks for the note about not having to remove the water pump. I'm going to pay more attention to the service manual because it seems to list removing things that do make the job easier/safer, but that don't HAVE to be removed to git-r-done. Like it shows removing the radiator to remove the oil pump. I just put some heavy cardboard in front to protect it. --Louis

Hi MSSLGECKO, no I used the Dow High Vacuum Silicone Grease shown below (bought from McMaster-Carr). I think it was like $10 for that tube which is like a toothpaste tube size enough for a lifetime I'd imagine. The pump I bought (from Sears) came with a very small tube of stuff, but I used it up, and couldn't find any of the substitutes listed in the Sears documentation, so I tried the Dow stuff. It seemed to work fine; however, I do not know if it is recommended for use in brake applications. I definitely wouldn't use that Goop stuff as we're working with safety critical car brakes here, not a kitchen sink. :cool: Yes, then after I've closed the bleed valve when I'm done I wipe it off with a clean rag. Anyway, you can get a fairly inexpensive such vacuum kit from Harbor Freight; you don't have to pay $$ for a name brand MightyVac. The setup I bought from Sears for $50 looks exactly the same to me as the one at HF for like $20 on sale. I have had excellent results with the vacuum brake bleeding system. If you don't use the grease though, it does such mostly air bubbles around the bleeder. -Louis

Hi Natalie, I think the screws that tend to loosen up on the those oil pumps are the rear case/cover screws. To get at them, the oil pump must be removed. Be sure all the bolts are removed from the oil pump housing, then there are a few pry points to get screwdrivers or small pry bars on there (don't scratch the mating surfaces of course). (I missed a bolt at the bottom middle of the pump when I pried it and bent the pump casing ....new oil pump for me! ) It doesn't take much force to break loose the seal (if all the bolts are out! :-p ) Then slide it off the crank (after sliding off the crank sprocket). Be careful with the radiator if you didn't remove it, or put some thick cardboard over it to protect. Then you'll see like 6 phillips head screws on the back casing. I'd just take them out and then check the rotor clearances with a feeler gauge while you're in there. I think one of the Subaru articles said to put the screws back in with red threadlocker. If you don't have a service manual, you could get an AllDataDiy subscription; I like it and it has basically the OE manual info&diagrams from what I can tell. There is an o-ring on the oil pump between the pump and block. And of course put in a new front crank seal when putting the oil pump back on. I believe Permatex Ultra Grey is the sealant to use when putting the oil pump back on. Torque specs are in the service manual. I just replaced my water pump too but didn't use any gasket sealer on the screws. There wasn't any sealer on the one that was on there. Just used a new gasket and little blue threadlocker on the screws when I put them back in. I did put some Permatex non-hardening gasket dressing (#2 I think or something) on the new gasket to hold it onto the new water pump while I mated it up to the block. Oh and the service manual has a tightening sequence for the bolts on reinstallation too. You might as well put in a new thermostat & gasket while you're at it if it's more than a couple years old. --Louis

Dude I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight near you but they have A/C manifold gauge set on sale right now I think for $39.99 plus if you sign up for e-mail specials you'll get coupons every week usually one of which is 20% off any single item.

I agree on the cooler; a permacool 1-1/2" x 7" x 18" fit in my 00 OBW. For regular towing I would want a big cooler and a ATF temp gauge. Without the gauge you don't know how hot the ATF is. I prefer to keep it below 180 deg. F. Nearing 250 deg. F for extended periods is asking for trouble. If you can't/don't want to install a cooler, I would at least change the ATF after the trip and maybe also before if it hasn't been changed lately. Synthetic ATF will probably be more resistant to oxidation than dino ATF.

After you get the existing belt off, spin all the idlers with your fingers and make sure they're smooth. Also try to slide the idler in and out to feel for play. Also try to rock the roller in all directions. Basically if there's any roughness or freeplay or it's leaking any grease then it's probably a good candidate for replacement. I'd also check freeplay on the water pump. I'd also try to wiggle the cam sprockets and just make sure nothing is loose in there. Also I think that era 2.2 had an issue with the screws coming loose on the backside of the oil pump so that might be something to look into as well while you've got the timing belt off.

What brand/model code reader are you using? I have a '96 Legacy that choked up a MIL shortly after I got it, bought a cheap Actron scanner at PepBoys and it showed front oxygen sensor slow reponse; replaced front O2 sensor and code went away. I've noticed the code scanner when connected to my '96 Legacy takes about 45 seconds to display the codes. My '00 I think it reads a lot faster. I think 95/96 or there abouts Subaru's only respond to OBDII 'supported' info requests and not 'all' requests, whereas most vehicles will respond to 'all' requests hence why I asked about the brand/model code reader you're using. (Read that in the ScanGauge manual).

On my '96 Legacy Brighton Wagon, the idle air control valve is as shown in the pic below. Mark I got the FuelPower FP60 from their Web site. It's actually a gasoline additive. I don't think it's sold in retail stores. It seems to work very well as a cleaner when warmed. I've used it to clean the throttle plate, etc. RedLine SI/R-I fuel system cleaner works very well too, and that you can get at I think Parts America, or from Summit. Anyway, I would think people would typically use a throttle body cleaner for this kind of work, but I didn't have any when I cleaned mine hence my use of alternates. I don't know what this board thinks of AllDataDiy, but you can get the trouble codes on there too, at least I can for my '96. I also poured you a beer!!!

Making a new panel for that area sounds cool nipper. I hope your back gets better quickly! I always like how on those car shows on TV they make shaped panels out of that fiberglass resin with the cloth and it always looks so nice. >> i see your car is dirty well, it's um, not really all that dirty, you see, the camera - it's flash makes every little spec of dirt show up! Really it does!

I had sticking calipers on an Escort before. Did the place you had the brakes done at rebuild/service the calipers? Sometimes if you just squeeze the pistons back in and slap in new pads, there's a little corrosion/dirt/gunk/whatever on the piston, it can damage the seal/and or hang up on the seal and stick. I had that happen at Monroe before and I complained hard and got a full refund. Gas mileage also suffers obviously when calipers are hanging up. A little grinding/squealing in the brakes when stopping, esp. if the car sat for a couple days when it's wet out probably isn't a big deal.

I don't know about the belts, but dude you sound lucky you didn't get pepper sprayed! lol j/k. It's always nice to offer a helping hand. My older brother's nickname is 'Manson' because he looks like Charles Manson so he doesn't often offer to help out young ladies in distress.

good morning nipper, per your request, here's some more pics of the center console of the '96 Legacy Brighton. pic1 pic2 pic3 Basically I removed that plastic piece down there and drilled some holes in it for the wires/vacuum tubing and used some mounting hardware for the gauges. I had to be a little careful because right behind that plastic thing is some contraption/computer for the airbags. You might be able to drill a big enough hole to fit that scangauge cable through there. The older scangauge I have doesn't have that unpluggable cable. Well nipper I'm going to try that oil pump reseal on my '00OBW now.

Dude the IAC is dead easy to clean; I just unhooked the hoses and poured some warmed Fuel Power FP60 down in there. I think sometimes if they're really caked up, the IAC will be fully open or nearly fully open and that's just not enough when the A/C is on? my '96 manual says for this code PO505, check air intake system, check output signal from ECM, check idle air control solenoid valve, check power supply to idle air control solenoid valve, check harneess between ECM and idle air control solenoid valve connector, and then step by step instructions on each. --Louis

Awesome thanks for the info. I'll R&R the oil pump tomorrow. The only thing I wasn't planning on doing is the RMS, as I'd have to yoink the engine for that, which I don't have a hoist and that'd be the most involved job I've ever done. Actually this timing belt/water pump/valve clearance/etc. work is the most involved I've ever done so far, but I think it's fun, probably only because i have another car to drive while working on this one, well oh, and that Sub's are pretty easy to work on!!!

Hi nipper! Sure I'm pleased to post more pics of the entire dash. pic1 pic2 let me know if you want more. I don't really have the scan gauge mounted anywhere (yet, usually use it in my '00 OBW). Those are all Autometer ProComp electrical gauges (except vacuum) (all from Summit) in my '96 Legacy Brighton Wagon. Top three are oil temp, oil pressure, ATF temp, bottom two are vacuum (left), and voltmeter, right. Tach is on the upper far left. Sorry it took me so long to reply, had to reboot, computer saying access denied copying pics of camera? yah what? it's my computer!!!!! I have a lot of gadgets on my Sub's I could show pics of if you want, including Canton-Mecca fuel/water seperators, Canton Accusump preoiler, Amsoil preoiler, Amsoil bypass filter, PermaCool ATF coolers, PermaCool steering fluid coolers, Amsoil bypass filters on ATF, filters on steering fluid, Optima yellow tops, etc, etc. -Louis :-)

FYI, I used Prestone Radiator Super Cleaner not too long ago, and man that stuff makes the coolant foam like it's a washing machine. I built my own cooline system flusher with a 3/4hp pump from Harbor Freight, some PCV piping and valves, and hose, and flushed about 10 gallons distilled water through a couple times, and it was foamy like washing machine discharge. [remove thermostat, reinstall housing incl/ gasket, pump into water pump intake, collect discharge at radiator outlet] -Louis

Looks nice nipper! Man I'm kind of upset that the ScanGauge II is out because I bought the old tech ScanGauge I not too long ago. But I love it. Kind of like the WOPR from War Games. Dude your gauge setup looks pristine compared to mine! I did notice in the manual for the ScanGauge I it says you have to set some setting for Sub's around the '97 year to request only the supported parameters, not all parameters. --Louis

Hi, I had the front sway bar fracture in my '00 OBW a couple months ago and was wondering if anyone else has experienced that? It fractured about 5" from the LH link while I was making a sharp right hand turn under nearly full throttle. It sounded like a gunshot going off. Anyway, I ordered new OE bar and rubber bushings and nuts and stuff; replacement was pretty easy. Actually in my inspection before I bought this car used, one of the rear sway bar links was broken, which the dealer replaced before I took delivery. Thanks! Louis :-p

Gas cap might be a good suspicion, especially if for whatever reason the one on the vehicle is not OE. Also maybe look at the o-ring on the gas gap and see if it's sealing well. Plus you really do need to check the code to see what it is; maybe it's just coincidence below 1/2 tank. As far as code readers, I bought an Actron for $99 on sale at Pep Boys and it works pretty well, plus if it's a generic code it spells out for you the meaning. However, I later bought a Scan Gauge for about $129, which, on top of reading codes, also lets you display up to four ODBII parameters such as engine coolant temp, intake air temp, manifold vacuum, voltage, ignition advance, and so on. The Scan Gauge will ready the codes (i.e. P01004 or whatever they look like) but won't tell you the meaning, but that's not a big deal because you can look them up online.

Excellent, thanks for the fast info everyone! USMB rules! I have no problem pulling the oil pump and resealing it while I'm in there; I think I will give it a go I think I already have a new o-ring in my supplies. I'm assuming Permatex Ultra Grey is the sealant to use?! Question: does the water pump have to be removed to R&R the oil pump? The OE service manual shows removing the water pump, but I already installed the new water pump and don't want to remove it again if I don't have to!! :cool: Also, should I simply replace the oil pump, or just reseal it? I guess I could check the clearances. I'm not too worried about spending $$ on a new oil pump if it's worth it. I do already have new OEM timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, cam seals, crank sprocket, crank seal, cam sprockets (bent one with chain wrench removing it...just got by UPS that special Kent Moore cam tool today!!! , heater hoses, radiator hoses, thermostat, coolant conditioner, let's see what else, oh new OE power steering pump (man that was $$$ existing one is really squeaky I overtightened belt way too much). Ahh nipper, I loved your bbaaaaaaaaaddd nipper post