porcupine73

Right what brake problem are you addressing? I would say yes, you can just use the FRONT calipers, brackets, pads and rotors from the 2002 while leaving the rears the same. The 2000 usually had I think the 10.9" was it rotors, whereas later models got a larger rotor. I actually had mine messed up on one side for a couple years, with a later caliper and bracket, so the pad didn't sweep the entire rotor area, and always wondered why it felt funny braking and pulled when braking. So I upgraded the other side to the larger rotor size and caliper bracket. It seems to work just fine. The bulk of the braking occurs in the front anyway. The rear is just along for the ride so to speak. Usually the rear is underbraked from the factory to begin with anyway to give it more stability on the skid pad tests.

Excellent, thank you all, I will try this out. I am very suspicious of the alt on this '94, it appears to be original, and it seems to really charge well at idle only about 50% of the time. It likes to sit below 12.8V output about half the time idling, and about 14V the other half (all at no load).

Yes it was a recall because something about a brush or something could let loose at high rpm and then if the driver doesn't notice, the risk was the vehicle could stall in traffic, so they recalled them. I don't remember the # off hand but it's out there.

That is the crankshaft sprocket. Or 'sprocket for crank pulley' I've seen it called. Even new genuine isn't overly pricey, maybe $25.

Ok thanks, I will definitely take a look, this '94 alt is definitely funky. It appears to be the original. I only started it a couple times in the summer and the voltage wouldn't go above maybe 12.8V. Then I just went to start her today and the battery was just about dead (new battery last year). So I put the quick charger on her, and then after about 45 minutes started her up. Voltage stayed up near 14V no matter if I turned the lights, rear defroster, blower, etc. so that makes me suspect of this alt. Last winter I had to double foot her at stop lights if i had much accessories on to keep the voltage from dropping below like 11 volts.

Ok, so '95-'99 Legacy alt runs around $99 because of that recall on them, while for '90-'94 is $219. How do you use a '95-99 in a '94 application? The '94 looks to have three wires connected at the alt connector. The '96 looks to have only two. I haven't had a chance to check the wiring diagrams ... 23700AA090R1 Legacy 1990-1994 Engine Parts, Alternator ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY REMAN FOR 1990-1994 LEGACY ALL (We will buy back the core in the box for 30 dollars after the job is done, contact us by email and we will arrange) $300 $219 23700AA34ARA Legacy 1995-1999 Engine Parts, Alternator ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY REMAN FOR 1995-1999 LEGACYS (We will buy back the core in the box for 30 dollars after the job is done, contact us by email and we will arrange) $129 $99

Nice thanks for the info. I think I have that HF tool, but I might have the C frame press I can't remember. Nice to know it will do the job!

It was safelite, I suspect it's simply the brand/application of windshield they used. I forgot to look at the windshield to see what the brand is. It's not unbearable -- but it is definitely inferior in optical clarity in the corners compared to the original.

On any of my soobs, I have not yet anyway had to replace the ball joint, but I've been lubing the pinch bolt and trying to loosen it over the years just to see. Forget about it, that dang pinch bolt is siezed in there on all my soobs. If it has to come out, I'll have to shear it off, drill it out, then use a a bolt with a nut which I've seen someone else mention. If the ball joint is seized into the bearing housing, I am confident Kroil will release it, provided it has enough time and vibration to work at it.

Yes we'll have to take a look in the manual. I have a hardcopy of the FSM I bought off ebay years ago. I don't drive the 2000 in the winters here because it's my only non-rusty soob, whereas my '96 and '94 well their days are numbered strictly because of the rust. That post I'm thinking of, it *might* have been referring to the power window switch, but I just can't remember, I thought it might have been to do with the turn signals. I remember burying that in the back of my mind in case it happened to me, which it now has.

Glad it's working, yes the second style (older style) is more durable and slightly more forgiving. The key is sllooowwww compression, especially on the newer style. Else it pukes out the silicone fluid and then you have to replace. Though replacement on the newer style ones isn't a bad idea anyway.

The harbor freight front wheel adapters work very well, it's kind of a lot of steps but the tool works great. If you have an air ratchet that makes it a ton easier with the half dozen or so ons and offs needed. Plus if you have their large bearing separator that makes it a lot easier to get the bearing race off the hub.

How are the front rotors and pads? Rusty at all or anything? The rears make only a small contribution; the bang for the buck is in replacing the front rotors, pads, and even calipers. If you suspect the booster you can to that three step test to make sure it is good. I've been using the Advance Auto silver brake pads with good results. They don't last nearly as long as ceramics, but --- they will chop right through rotor rust pretty fast, and that is important to me. The ceramics they I don't know, they will not polish off rotor rust, at least not very quickly, and will have diminished breaking for a looonggg time if the rotors are rusty.

Hi, my '96 does that too. I think what is needed is the cassette adapter that turns both cassette wheels. Else some tape decks get confused when it sees only one wheel turning in the deck and it pukes it out.

Eh, the extra wear of running at a slightly higher RPM is completely negated by the wear of dry startups, that's where the bad stuff happens.

I'm slightly fuzzy on what is actually happening ... are you saying when you put the key to start you hear clicking but no cranking? If so, can you try jiggling the shifter or moving the shifter to neutral? Not an unheard of thing on that era.

Well I have yet to see one of the original hoses fail, but, those damn $%*(# hard lines that go under the battery - those are almost guaranteed to rust out, at least in the rust belt. But then in the rust belt what isn't I guess ...

Right, you often can't just 'pad slap' used cars. At the minimum the sliders must be serviced, and sometimes, pushing the caliper pistons back into the bore, will make them seize up if they had any rust around the bore (which you can't really see).

Well normally I think what people do is put some dye in the system, then you use a blacklight to pinpoint the leak source. Subaru has mixed feelings on using dye in their a/c though. If you suspect an o-ring, you can get an o-ring kit pretty cheaply and just do them all, it's not that difficult. At this age it's not a bad idea to put in a new drier too, especially since now it probably has air in the system. A good vacuum at warm temps is best before recharging to boil off moisture.

Ok this windshield is in, I don't know, I don't like it though. I'm going to have to live with it though. It has noticeable visible distortion at the edges. Like in my peripheral vision I notice it while driving. It's almost like looking through a magnifying glass at the edges. I hate it. The original was not like that at all, it was almost optically perfect even in the corners. I have a feeling I will get used to it but it is still irritating.

Interesting, 2000 Outback here, and within the last six months it has started doing this, yes on the left turns. Once in a while I will hear a fast clicking and the signal won't come on. How hard is it to replace the stalk? So yes need to get that patched up before next spring because that could be a major safety issue. Now I find myself looking down every time I left signal to make sure it's actually flashing. I remember seeing someone else post about this issue with the turn signal some years back, I thought they said they cleaned it out somehow, like there was a dried out grease inside or something? Driver's side power window up switch is also really funky, it only works sometimes and you have to really fiddle with it.

The advanceauto 15% off plus $25 coupon for later looked nice. I saw the TYC on Amazon but it says 89.81 for me, oh I see there is another seller 76.25 free shipping not bad, I think I saw that one on rockauto too for $72 but not free shipping. I liked the description on the vista-pro, it might just be marketing hype but it at least made me feel like it is a quality unit. The rockauto shipping was $8 total for both rads. Probably all the rads are made that way though. Radiatorbarn had an all metal unit that looked interesting but was $150.

Good source info. I'm thinking I'm going to replace my '96 and '94 original radiators, I figure they are probably on borrowed time at this point. Now that I don't have AAA anymore it will cost me the price of a rad to have it towed anyway plus I'll still have to buy a rad plus I really don't want any break downs in the winter because it will of course be during some snow storm when all the tow companies then say it's 4 hours til they can get there. So for '96 radiator barn seems good, yes like $80 shipped. Advanceauto is like $129. '94 is like $150 at radiator barn but I see advanceauto has one for like $127, then right now they have the 15% off, free shipping, plus a $25 coupon for a future purchase, so that should work. eta, decided to go with two vista-pro 432536 rads from rockauto, listed at $90 each, SummitRacing price was like $127 for the same rad. Rockauto shows it will fit both applications so hopefully that will work.

Sounds good, hopefully the neck takes care of it. My '96 the neck was definitely leaking, but now a year later this fall I can smell fuel around it again, who knows which of the seemingly infinite number of emissions tubes running around it is this time.

Alright thanks for the help. Well I ended up having Safelite come out to do it. I didn't want to have to wait at the shop so I used their mobile service. It probably wasn't the cheapest route but it's done now. The guy commented that it was one of the 'cleanest' installations he's ever done. He said older cars sometimes there's rust around the pillars or if they've had the windshield replaced before it is harder to replace again. So I take it he meant it was a pretty easy job for him. I think it took him about 30 minutes. I should have just stood there and watched to learn and see how hard it really is or probably isn't. He said he used polyurethane sealant. The windshield seems I don't know kind of shiny, like I sat down in the driver's seat and it's almost like I can see this faint mirror reflection of the dash in it. I guess maybe since my old one was kind of dull I didn't notice it as much. It took a few times to get them to come out though. I just filled out all the info on their web site, where the vehicle was stuff like that. So the guy calls me the morning of the appointment and says he's on his way. So then he calls me and says he's knocking at my door do I hear him. Then he starts describing the other Subaru's in my driveway so I realize he's at my home. I say ... um ... I'm at work, that's where the car is, I put all that info in the website when I made the appointment. He says hm it doesn't say that here. So someone calls later to reschedule and wants to do it the next day. I say the weather report says 100% chance of rain tomorrow, why don't we schedule for today (Thursday) which shows sunny. No he wants to schedule it for the next day. So I say OK. So then naturally it is raining that day and the guy calls and says he can't do it in the rain so they'll have to reschedule. So that brings us to today and the job is now finished.