porcupine73

hehe ok yes I'll check out the dealer locator. Ah there it is, I didn't see it the first time because it says 'franchisee locator'. Hm it gives me Branch Name: Greater NY Telephone: 1-888-773-0331. I'll have to give a call. Hm a google search shows snap-on is looking for franchisees in Buffalo on careerbuilder.com maybe I don't have a dealer The risk in going into the tool truck will be getting all pie eyed and coming out with a bunch of great tools but a light wallet.

Right on, many '96 soobs have been granted exemption from the inspection readiness monitors (I/M's) because they reset to 'not tested' or 'not ready' every time ingnition is turned off. I checked my '96 legacy before just prior to NYS inspection, and many of the readiness I/M's were not ready or not tested, yet it passed no problem. There is an article on endwrench about this issue; can look up if desired. In NYS, as I suspect in many areas, the ODBII is connected to the test equipment, making it a little trickier to 'fake it out'.

Because the statement "The only difference is the packaging." is not necessarily true. It presumes the OEM reman part and the other reman part are remanufactured to the same specification, and that is not necessarily true.

That shows up as: 26720AA210 Brakes - Anti-lock brakes - Control module impreza, 4wd, auto trans 1993 - 1994 impreza, 2wd 1996 impreza, 4wd, auto trans 1995 - 1996 legacy, w/o tcs, 2wd 1995 - 1996 legacy, w/o tcs, 4wd, auto trans 1995 - 1996

If you get it apart and take the o-ring to the parts store you could just try to match it up.

If it's the o-ring, I think that is item 55 in this pic:

If it is the power steering pump style with the reservour right on top of the pump, I beileve there is a gasket or o-ring sealing the reserviour to the pump which can leak.

I think you need to ground terminal L with the key off. Then after grounding L, you go to key on, then it flashes out the codes.

I'm not sure if this is the filter, but was the only thing that looked like it might be something like that, circled in red, is this it? Also I imagine these metal lines crossing under the throttle cable are the ones the endwrench article says they have seen plug up or rust out

Hi Ernie. I'm pretty sure on my '00obw, I just removed that coin holder thing in front of the fuse box by the left knee, and reached up in from behind and pushed out the switch. At least for switches on the left side that seems to work.

Ah ok thanks for the info! I think I will try that next time, I think I could fit my impact in there if the rad is out.

Cool. Can you hit the cam bolts with an impact wrench with the engine in? I can't seem to fit mine in to do it even with the rad fans out. Maybe with a universal joint or something?

ok the endwrench article is http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf hehe no pics of that filter in there though....however my '96 has EGR and I need to take the garbage out so maybe I can sneak a few pics while I'm outside....if I can find the filter...

hehe there's a good article on endwrench.com about egr code issues, maybe there's a pic of the filter in there. It also says sometimes some of the low points in the metal tubes rust out....ok over to endwrench to see if there's a pic. wow putting that part #22663AA010 into google only turns up two hits, one a japanese site with the part # mentioned in some pic of a turbo engine of some sort.

You betcha! You can get it from subaru.spx.com it's about $65 I think.

Most hardware stores will have the NPT pipe taps. Harbor freight even sells them. The pipe plugs would be in the plumbing section. You can get them with a square head for turning with a wrench, or with a recessed hex (though hardware stores don't usually have that style). I don't know what material plug you want, but the typical hardware store materials will be black pipe, galvanized, or brass. I would use a thread sealant since the tapered thread can have a spiral leak path. mcmaster has some info on pipe thread types and such http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html/MetalConnections/ i.e.

Hello and to the board! Most common soob misfire causes. a. non-NGK spark plugs b. non-OEM or Magnecor spark plug wires c. old/aged/in need of replacement spark plugs or wires d. coil pack cracking/carbon tracing e. oil collecting in spark plug tube (for soob engines where the spark plug tubes penetrate the valve cover). less common but can be e. one or more valves not closing completely (i.e. valve lash in need of adjustment - post '96 engines only as prior to that hydraulic lash adjusters HLA's were used). Can also happen if cylinder heads are severely carboned up. f. timing off/jumped tooth/etc of course there are other things too. You asked about knock sensor. It is fairly easy to replace.

Yes welcome to the board! Here are the most common Subaru oil leak locations with pics: Front cam seals (especially the earlier black colored seals; the newer brownish colored ones hold up better) (pics from an EJ22): Front crank seal (esp the mid 90's 2.2L's and some others where the screws on the rear case of the oil pump tended to loosen, letting oil out the front crank seal and sometimes even pushing the seal right out) Also there is an o-ring between the oil pump discharge and block The valve cover gaskets, and for engines where the spark plug tubes penetrate the valve cover, the spark plug hole seals. EJ22's also have an o-ring at the LH rear and RH front of the cam's: Also rear main seal, especially if the vehicle had a plastic rear main seal retainer/oil separator (an OEM upgrade to a metal retainer is available).

Ah ok, i wasn't sure if it was what you wanted. The only other ones they show are for further down the exhaust.

Oh right on pics! I found it at subarupartsforyou.com, picked 'exhaust - gaskets only', then picked an early '90s impreza to find the 1.8L.

Here's some pics of the auto trans awd transfer clutch. Here's some torn cv joint boots

Wow that's a sweet tool. Is it worth just ordering from snap-on web site or is it better to try to find a local snap-on guy?

Is this a manual trans or auto trans? If it is torque bind, common causes are (a) running with tires where the circumferences are not all within 1/4" ( running with a soft/flat tire for a period of time © improper towing Sometimes clicking in turns though is cv joints.

Hm...not sure if it helps but typically on wheel bearings when replacing an axle, I replace inner oil/grease seal and slather some Neo HP800 wheel bearing grease in there. I haven't had any of my 3 soobs experience wheel bearing issues (yet) but have only had them for a few years.

Hm yes and indeed possibly an HDD - heavy duty diesel oil. These have more antiwear and other additves than PCMO (passenger car motor oils), which could only benefit the timing chain mechanisms!