porcupine73

Hi. Take a look at the clearance between your strut lower spring seats and the top of the tires. Often this is a limiting factor. For wider tires, often wider tires will fit but may give rubbing in the turns in the front.

hehe, no you are right, the Forester was introduced in '98. Swapping the housings can be a way to go. the biggest pain in that is usually the long bolt holding the control arms and such together back there, those usually are frozen in pretty good.

Ah ok yes that would be a valid reason! :-p

Hi. Just for reference here's the Subaru part #'s anyway. Looks like these are all ~$300 from subaru dealers selling online. 45111GA570 RADIATOR ASSEMBLY FOR 1985-1987 XT COUPE 1.8 WITH MANUAL TRANS ONLY 45111GA580 RADIATOR ASSEMBLY FOR 1985-1987 XT COUPE 1.8 WITH AUTO TRANS ONLY 45181GA610 RADIATOR ASSEMBLY FOR 1988-1991 XT GL COUPE 1.8 WITH AUTO TRANS (NON-TURBO) 45181GA350 RADIATOR ASSEMBLY FOR 1988-1991 XT6 COUPE 2700 WITH MANUAL TRANS ONLY 45181GA361 RADIATOR ASSEMBLY FOR 1988-1991 XT6 2700 WITH AUTO TRANS ONLY

2000 Outback valve cover gaskets: TYpically just get the kit also need spark plug tube seals: and valve cover bolt hole washers; these are for a 2.2L the 2.5L are very similar but have a gold colored metal center 2.2L knock sensor with crack:

How about engine coolant temp sensor?

Thanks for the clarification about the oil separator not really being related to the rear main seal. I'm not sure where I got that idea from... For the front crank seal on the oil pump, I always (well ok the two times I have done it) installed the seal on the pump while it was out. I put some grease on the oil seal lip and crank snout before reinstalling and didn't have any problems with the lip folding over. I find it much easier to get seals to go in straight when there's not a snout in the way. I find the cam seal a pain and usually mess up at least one when putting the new ones in. Maybe I should take rad out when doing it next time. Not completely sure on the matching up of the '97 forester to impreza rear wheel bearing housings. The part #'s are the same, but it says Forester '98-'00 and didn't show '97 forester part # 28411AA000 HOUSING, REAR AXLE RIGHT FOR 1993-2000 IMPREZAS ALL 28411AA000 HOUSING, REAR AXLE RIGHT FOR 1998-2000 FORESTERS ALL 28411AA010 HOUSING, REAR AXLE LEFT FOR 1993-2000 IMPREZAS ALL 28411AA010 HOUSING, REAR AXLE LEFT FOR 1998-2000 FORESTERS ALL

I have used some PVC caps from the hardware store to fit over the cams and then use a hammer to tap in the seal using the a hammer on the cap. For pulling the seals, I find this a major pain even with drilling holes etc in the sales. I recently bought this puller (but haven't used it yet) supposed to work pretty well: Subaru approves the use of permatex ultra-grey for oil pump sealing. Any reasonable size chunk of the rtv will be caught in the engine oil filter, since the oil goes through the oil filter after leaving the oil pump discharge (the part sealed with the o-ring to the block).

hm good point. Yes the old seal can get stuck on there. I had this happen a long time ago on an escort and didn't notice it and was greated by a small fountain of oil spraying up and coating the engine bay.

That's true, for one quart in 20 feet it has to be a good rip in the hull. That leak should be spottable at idle just based on the waterfall like stream coming out! Like if you see this guy show up in your driveway, you might have a serious oil leak

Oh good point, sorry, yes the 'water pump' thing is just for identification of the water pump, not saying oil could leak out there. though if you get an oil leak there the engine might have more serious problems!

Oh yes good point that one is missing in the pics:

Here's some common soob oil leak locations: Here are the most common Subaru oil leak locations with pics: Front cam seals (especially the earlier black colored seals; the newer brownish colored ones hold up better) (pics from an EJ22): Front crank seal (esp the mid 90's 2.2L's and some others where the screws on the rear case of the oil pump tended to loosen, letting oil out the front crank seal and sometimes even pushing the seal right out) Also there is an o-ring between the oil pump discharge and block The valve cover gaskets, and for engines where the spark plug tubes penetrate the valve cover, the spark plug hole seals. EJ22's also have an o-ring at the LH rear and RH front of the cam's: Also rear main seal, especially if the vehicle had a plastic rear main seal retainer/oil separator (an OEM upgrade to a metal retainer is available).

Wow that's a lot of juice! what are you running like 2/750 kcmil/phase...hm can you get flexible cable that big

hehe yah I 'd say we move on and build a prototype of the proposed unit! wohoo. Maybe we can parallel ten of the new soob 3.6L's to get us started. Yes for the peak power loading I remember ten years ago on co-op standing next to a 39000 hp air compressor firing up, they had to call the power co for permission to start it first, and said it was ~$1000 just to start it.

Harbor freight sells small generators powered by SUBARU engines Yes also typically engine must be a bit overside for the generator. Otherwise it cannot react very quickly to a sudden change in load. A good generator maybe has ~97% efficiency? But that would be on a larger scale, like the big ones you guys are talking about? Larger units will also possibly be synchronous generator setups, which can also help match power factor of the load. However such generator rental is becoming more popular in areas with rolling outages during peak demand times since co's consuming lots 'o power can get a much better rate on interruptible power. Also now in many areas power co's are not allowed to interrupt residential power until all power contracts using interruptible power have been excercised. i.e. maybe your contact with power co is for 30 minute interruptible power, which means power co can call you at any time and say in 30 minutes you have to drop all your load, except maybe some negligible office/lighting power. Then you have agreement with a generator rental co who comes out and ties in their generator to your switchgear/motor control and you are back online!

Hi. Yes not sure. It must have to do with economics. Like truck + generator as two separate efficient items means a profitable product. The custom truck you mention with a hydrid drive would cost wayyyy more than the two separately mated together. Plus it would not be as efficient, i.e. diesel -> drivetrain diesel -> generator -> electric motor -> drivetrain is not as efficient.

Hi jjjbemer and I believe that thing with the hoses on the H6 is the engine oil cooler, and the hoses are coolant lines.

hehe, right on, and . If it seems to be shifting fine etc I'd just change out the fluid after you buy it and make sure the external filter is installed (it should be in the LH/driver wheel well area); here's the kit:

piney? Maybe someone poured pine-sol in there, like they read it was good as an auto trans flush. If you buy it I'd change out the ATF with fresh good quality ASAP. Also make sure it has the external aux filter installed.

Good point. Also I have noticed at least the crapsman flare/line wrenches will open up a bit if you start really laying on them thus can potentially round off the nut. I clamp some vise grips onto the line wrench open end after getting it on the fitting so that it stays nice and tight.

Haynes manual has a generalized bench bleed procedure if you need it.

Right on, you just need a 14mm hex/allen drive to get the plug out. An impact wrench really helps, I don't know if I would have gotten the plug out without it. Even on the highest setting it took a good minute of beating to get it out.

Here's some typical pump internals. I marked the items that looked like o-rings/gaskets with a square box.