BigMattyD

I usually don't drive it like I mean it, but occasionally I do heat up the rotors. Anyway, my next car will hopefully be a WRX, probably a WRX wagon... This will probably not be for a few years, though... I'm still leaning toward leaving it alone, at least for a while. I do respect your opinions, though, and yes, I think it is unfair for Josh because he lives in a rust-free climate, that bast*rd!!! Just kidding, Josh. I am just jealous after seeing your recent pics!!! Matt

You should measure the ATF with the engine and transmission hot (after driving for 5-10 minutes. Park the car on a level surface, keep the engine running, and shift the car through the range of gears with your foot on the brake (park through 1 and back.) Then open the hood and measure the fluid while the engine is idling. Pull the dipstick out and wipe it off, then insert it all the way to the stop, and pull it out quickly. The fluid level should be over halfway between the low and high range for "hot" transmission, but not over the full mark. matt

I can't wait to find out the cause of this mysterious problem!!! matt

Does anybody know how important the dust shield on the backing plate is? One one side, the dust shield that normally covers the back and edge of the rotor has rusted off. On the other side, the shield is getting to that point, but not nearly as bad. The thick metal of the rest of the backing plate is fine. (where the e-brake components are and the caliper bracket bolts to it) The backing plate is available online, but it is relatively expensive, and to replace it involves removing the hub, etc. For now, I have decided to leave it alone. Anyone have experience with this issue? Matt

Mike: I have a thought... Look at the diagnostic procedure in the FSM scan I sent you. On section 10AJ2, step 6, it asks you to measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2 of the solenoid. If it is shorted, (less than 1 ohm) you are to replace the solenoid AND the ECU. Having a short in that circuit must damage the ECU, probably a transistor or other component that actually does the switching. (Is that a poor design?) Here is my thinking. You said that the CEL has been on for a long time, and that you had this same code 2 years ago, and replaced the valve, but the CEL stayed on. It is my theory that the original valve was shorted, and you replaced it with a good part, but the damage had already been done to the ECM. Of course, because the CEL stayed on, you were not sure if it was because the repair you did was incomplete, or if there were other issues causing the CEL. Now 2 years have gone by, you read the codes, and find several, but one of them is the same as you had back then, and it's the only one that returns when you clear the codes. You do all the diagnostics, but you come up with no good answers. The new solenoid reads 28 ohms, because it is the new one, and it hasn't been operating for two years, so it is like new. The connections are good, and the valve operates when you test it... confusing the issue. So get a new or used ECU if you can. I think there is enough reason to suspect it is damaged. If you have the ability, maybe you could take it apart and replace a faulty component. Or maybe Cougar could start a side business fixing these things.... Matt D.

I figured you were doing it right, but you never know for sure... I agree with everyone else that the next thing to work on would be the front O2 sensor. The ECU uses the output from the sensor to determine the air/fuel ratio. If it is reading incorrectly, the car may be running too rich. Here's another crazy thought: could you be losing fuel somehow.... a fuel tank leak, maybe someone siphoning it out, etc?? If that much fuel were leaking, you'd be likely to have noticed the smell already, or maybe spots on the driveway. matt

Just checking your math regarding mpg... It doesn't matter what size your tank is (15.9 gallons) unless you already know your usual mpg, and you are trying to decide how far a full tank will take you. Fill your tank all the way full, and set your trip odometer to zero. Drive normally till it's time to fill up. When you fill up, record the number of gallons used (let's say 12.125.) Then look at your trip odometer (let's say 234 miles). Then divide your miles traveled by the gallons used: (234miles/12.125gallons) = 19.2 mpg. The tank size is not relevant to this equation. However, once you know your avg mpg (let's say 25 mpg), you can estimate your range till empty. (25mpg X 15.9 gallons) = 397.5 miles. Of course, you would not drive till empty, but give yourself a reserve, maybe 75 miles or so. Then if you reset your trip odometer every time you fill up, you can watch the odometer instead of a faulty fuel gauge. If you have been calculating correctly, please excuse me. It just seems too far off, and I know that there are others out there, anyway, who might benefit from this info. Not everybody is good at math... Matt D.

You could use gasoline or engine starting fluid, but it might be too much for you to handle if there were some discharge.... Of course, this was a joke. Do not use a flammable substance... matt

When I first bought my 5 yr old used 96 Legacy, there was a constant vibrating noise whenever the clutch pedal was not depressed. Just a light pressure on it stopped the sound. It turns out that a bearing was bad, and it had damaged a part of the transmission such that they had to replace the transmission. Glad it was under warranty. I do not recall the actual bearing or part that was worn, but per the shop it was part of the transmission and not easily replaceable. Maybe someone else knows what it was?? Matt P.S. This was 5 yrs ago, and I am not an Elite Master of the Subaru Transmission, so bear with me...

Thanks for the info. I'm still in the planning stages... Anyone else have any experience with these?? Matt

I am strongly considering installing an overhead DVD player in my 2003 Outback Wagon. We currently have the type that clips onto the back of the headrest, but it is annoying to have it back there to insert/remove videos. Our daughter wants to touch and kick it, and when out 2nd daughter is old enough, she will want to be able to see it too. Plus, it is tempting to criminals to be in plain view, so we always have to remove and reinstall it when we leave the car. I have found a few different brands of overhead dvd systems. Does anyone have any experience with these? I would like to install it myself, but I would consider in-store installation. I have installed various other items before... speakers, amps, alarm systems, head units, equalizers, etc. I don't have experience with the headliner or roof construction, but I am in the process of learning about it. If the kids at best buy or circuit city can do it in an hour, I'm sure I could do it in a few hrs. on a weekend. Anyone have any suggestions on brands, etc. or experience with installation? Matt D

Recently, I drove from my home to Columbus, OH, and stopped at a gas station where their gas was 10% ethanol, and I swear I heard pinging, when normally I never do. It went away now that I'm back home... Matt

No pics of the engine compartment or underside of the car???? Looks good, though. Wish I lived in your climate. Matt

Regarding the labor costs: Maybe part of the job was a two person job and they charged you for total man-hours of labor??? matt

That's what I thought too, but it was not the case. They are supposed to and do light up once the bulbs are fixed.... matt

Sometimes, if I don't have my coffee in the morning, I have "unintentional retarded timing." Just ask my wife... matt

That reminds me to go check the level of my differential oil... Matt

This may not apply to your situation, but I change from all season to snow tires in the winter, and I store my tires inflated when not in use. I put them in my barn or garage and store them upright. I have not had any problems with the limited storage time (6 to 8 months.) If you are storing them longer, I am not sure of the proper procedure, but I would think you would want to store them deflated, off the wheels, in a cool dry place, out of the sunlight. Matt

It is on the driver's side of the car... Lay on your back so that your head is directly under the lower corner of the radiator on the driver's side. There is a 1 1/2 inch diameter hose that connects to the radiator there. Trace it back toward the engine 8 to 10 inches. It connects to the thermostat housing. Matt

We just bought a 2003 Outback, and I have used the heated seats and mirrors already. Yesterday, it was 45 F out side in the morning, and my side mirrors were fogged up and I was a tad chilly, so I turned on the heated mirrors and seat, as well as the rear defog. It was nice, but I do just fine without them on my 96 Legacy sedan. I just worry that more gadgets only increases the likelihood of failures/repairs... Matt D

Yeah, when I bought my 96 legacy, none of the bulbs were working. I just thought it was supposed to be dark. I went around for 2 or 3 years before I found out how to fix them. It was quite easy. I still have some spare bulbs around, I bought them online from Mouser.com for a few cents each. Matt D

Trying to cool the sensors is probably a good idea, since it tends to be an issue when hot. Since in your experience it worked well, I guess I would recommend it as a temporary solution. Of course who knows if the sensor will fail completely or if the water may cause a short circuit. If the engine is warm, however, any water should evaporate quickly. I would try it if desperate. Matt D

Yes, the cam and crank sensors are very similar in operation and failure modes. They tend to fail when hot and work fine when cold. I never had one quit while I was driving, either. Only at startup with a warm engine. And there's nothing you can do but wait for it to come back to normal. It will probably continue to get worse, mine did. If you want help finding/ fixing these sensors, let us know. There is a lot of experience here. Matt D

I had the same symptoms, and had to replace the crankshaft position sensor. It is located just above the oil pump, you probably have to move the alternator to get to it easily. matt d

here is a diagnostic chart for p1133 from your year vehicle. matt p1133.pdf