Spockva

Carburated? Might be an accellerator pump failing or a vacuum leak.

Hi all! You have helped before, maybe you can again. 92 Loyale 5 speed, clutch cable broke about 4 years ago, replaced it, all worked well until about two weeks ago cable broke again. Ordered part from NAPA, waited a week for delivery, part arrived, installed same, adjusted to spec in Chilton, all well, until I notice it is slowly loosing adjustment. Today it got worse and worse as I was driving the 20 minute stop and go trip home from work. Drove the last 5 mins in second and had to practically force it in to first to get to the house. Bad new cable or something else going on? Why do I not see a clutch fork return spring on my car as they show in the book? Any insight will be greatly appreciated.

Well, found the heating problem, bad upper radiator hose collapsing when running at higher speeds. Hose blew before I could replace it, but the whole inside was coming apart. Shortly after putting the new hose on (4 days) the timing belt snapped so now it is in the shop with a bill to the tune of 750 dollars. The water pump was also leaking onto the timing belts so I had it replaced and all the seals for the crank and cam shafts were also leaking so they were replaced too. Good thing I like this car, I only paid 450 dollars for it and just sank all that into it.

Regular analog dash, but voltage stays above 12 with EVERYTHING on, lights, wipers, A/C with fan on 4, and rear defroster, foot on brake and in reverse. The only things not running is the horn and interior light, so I don't think it is a voltage drop but I will check it out too, thanks.

Thanks, but the radiator is clean and there are no fins missing or leaks that I can see. Will see about the radiator hose mentioned here, but I think I am going to change the thermostat as mentioned above and see if that doesn't cure the problem. A nice Stant quick acting model might be just what it needs. They cost a little more, but are worth the money as they respond to temperature change faster than a standard thermostat.

Now that you mention it, I have noticed occasionally that the engine seems to go over 1/2 on the gauge when it is first warming up then drops back to the "normal" place it usually resides when the engine is at temp. HMMMM maybe a thermostat is in order, after all the car has 162,000+ on it and I have never changed the thermostat since I have owned it.

I noticed something sort of wierd with my 92 Subaru Loyale. I was driving on a 55 mph road and running the A/C on a day when the temperature was approximately 88 degrees F. The temeprature gauge normally sits about 1/4 to 1/3 but it went up to about 2/3 to 3/4 while moving and dropped slightly every time I stopped. When I got home I sat idling a few minutes and it dropped to about a half. While driving around town where the speed limit is no higher than 45 it seems to remain around the 1/4 to 1/3 area. My question is, could the increased temperature be caused by a fluid fan "clutch" going bad?

As I just did my rear brakes recently on my 92 Subaru Loyale FWD, I found there is a bearing cap that you have to remove and then you have to unbend the retaining lock for the nut, remove it and then the outer bearing. Be careful when you pull the drum/hub unit off! There is a seal on the back side that might want to stay on the spindle. Try to pull the drum/hub straight off and not damage the seal, unless you are like me and always service the bearings and seals when you do your brakes so you don't end up with brakes coated in axle grease because a seal failed. There is an adjusting screw on the backing plate, and you might have to back it out a few turns to get the drum over the shoes if there is a deep wear area in the drum. If that is the case you probably need to have the drums checked to see if they are worn beyond where they can be resurfaced. Have the drums resurfaced at a brake shop or machine shop, clean all the nasty gunk off the backing plate, clean and inspect the bearings for wear, repack them with fresh grease, install new seals and brake shoes and new springs, put everything back together, tighten the nut until the wheel stops then back it off a quarter of a turn, bend the locking washer up so the nut can't back off, put the bearing cap back on, and you should be good to go for another couple of years. Good Luck!! PS: If the nut retaining washer brakes off, you will have to get another one from somewhere so bend it back slowly as they are not easy to find in the local parts mega-store.

My 92 Loyale had same problem, so I backed it off and one day, it DISAPPEARED! Didn't hear it fall or any strange noise under hood, just went to check the oil and it was gone. Went to Autozone and for about 4 bucks got a new one that is tight right at the stops. Aparently there is a rubber gasket in the cap that gets hard and crushed by age and that is why caps get loose.

Could they make the little light on the module any harder to see? Anyway, I got the codes on my 92 Loyale SPFI and they are 34 and 35, the EGR solenoid and the Purge Solenoid . Can anyone tell me where these devices are and if I have to get them from Subaru or are they available from other parts stores? Maybe someone here has some good ones they would not mind parting with cheap? At least I got a working clock thanks to msteel.

That was the point I was trying to make, LOL!

I would not waste my time playing around with temporary fixes. It sounds like the alternator died, and it may not have lit up anything. It is my understanding, and this happened to me, the Subaru charge light only comes on when the VOLTAGE drops below a certain point. If the voltage stays up, then no light. However, if the AMPERAGE drops so low that it no longer replaces the system drain from the battery, then the vehicle runs for a while and then drops dead of no battery power. Your battery issues sound like the voltage regulator (internal to the alternator) locked full open for a period of time long enough to boil the water out of the battery . This finally eneded when the regulator burned out. Your best bet is to replace the alternator with a good one and replace the battery with a fully cahrged one at the same time so the bad battery does not damage the good alternator. Best of luck, GO SUBARU!

Make absolutely sure you have the right wire on the right plug. Changed mine about three weeks ago and got two on the passenger side swapped. Idled fine but man what a mess above 2000! Swapped them out and now we fun like the proverbial ape! Hope this helps!

It is amazing how much one part affects all the others! Replaced the squealing electric fan motor behind the radiator and now I have A/C and the charge light stays off even with everythng running. That motor must have been drawing way too much amps when it came on and was squealing. Well, I am tired now so I will deal with the CEL another day. As long as she runs fine and gets good mileage, I am happy!

I figured it was probably something of a temperature sensor nature, now all I have to do is get the code and confirm. Thanks, will let you know what turns up.

Engine runs fine, well over 30 mpg(35 last time I checked). Light used to come on when the engine was first started then go out for a while. Then it started to come on when the engine was first started and go out then come back on after the engine got up to temp. Then it finally started coming on all the time and staying on. All this time the engine has run fine with the exception of when it is cold and you try to "get on it". Once it warms up, no problem at all. Will be working on it tomorrow, trying to get some insight.

Unbelieveable! Reminds me of something Mad Max might drive!

So I have to read the codes on the module light and should not have to plug anything in, just turn on the key. The Chiltons is kind of vague on this proceedure.

92 Loyale, Chiltons says the diagnostic plug can be found either under the dash with the computer module or under the hood on the drivers side. I have looked under the dash by the steering column, not only don't I see the plug(s), but I dont see the module either. I do find a green and a white plug under the hood on the drivers side. Supposedly if you plug in the green connector, you should be able to read the code(s) on the check engine light. All mine does is stay on all the time. Am I playing with the wrong plug? Does it only flash on the mocule and where else might the module be? I am completely bewildered and then there is the module under the package deck in the trunk, what is that one for? AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone, I did do a little more poking around and discovered that the right speaker voice coil is blown so I guess there is an intermittent loss of contact in the coil itself. Will start by replacing that if I can get a replacement for a decent price. Thanks again!!

This absolutely sounds like the alternator is dead, and is "back draining" the battery when it is off. Someone once told me that isf the diodes in the voltage regulator die, it is sort of like producing a short across the terminals, which will kill the battery over time, such as overnight.

I also used the thread renewal epoxy with great results. In the holes that were badly stripped, I found that the next larger metric bolt size was easy to enlarge to, and the studs also fit through the holes in the flanges. Very easy to do and kept it metric too.

Ok, I am really annoyed with my Subaru. The right channel of the stereo cuts in and out spasmodically when the engine is running. Only the right channel does this and only when the engine is running. It seems to diminish slightly in intensity when the brake pedal is pushed down. It occurrs randomly and the sound only goes off for a second, making it sound like static some times. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Oh, I forgot, it only has speakers in the doors, none under the rear deck.