tforce

I figured I'd have to do some custom hose work for sure. Capn_r: I'm at White Pass Ski Area in WA. I'm thinking that the ea81 and 82 should be pretty similar ac swaps other than the engine compartment shape/size factor. Could you give me a condensed list of what parts you used from each car? Chux: On the ea81....from what you said and from your pdf, I'm gathering that the best route for condenser mounting is gonna be to do away with my hood latch and open that space up for the condenser/fans?

I'm putting an ej22 in an '84 GL wagon and I'd like to keep the AC. I've read through the pdf that Numbchux made but was wondering if anyone has done this recently and has any advice/ideas about any aspects of the operation. Thanks. -T4

Ya, I'm wondering the same thing. That link takes you to ebaumsworld.com. There's no pdf that I can see.

I second the statement of "do not buy a 99 with an auto trany...no matter what the mileage". I wouldn't buy an automatic, period, in the 99 and under models....especially the 99. Hell, just get a stick no matter what and you'll be better off. I just got an 02 legacy gt with a manual trany and am loving it. Much better design....everything is plug and play, it's easier to get at the spark plugs, you don't have to pull the engine when the head gaskets go, cleaner/neater engine compartment, the cup holders are in better spots, nicer window controls, harder to break into...the list goes on. Post 99's are better built.

According to the shop I had the TPS replaced at, a bad signal from the TPS will throw the tranny out of whack. And the AT Oil Temp light does give a TPS code. Lest start over Model Outback Wagon Limited Engine 2.5 Year 1999 Milleage 126000 Any major work done of late: Replaced tranny with one from a wrecking yard. Same with TCM. TPS replaced. Replaced vent valve for gas Evap system. Any idiot lights on: Check Engine light is on. Last time it was scanned it gave an Evap System code. The gas tank got overfilled once and we belive it damaged the charcoal filter. I have had a MAF sensor code come up before too. Whats your gas mileage: 22-27 WHat is THE CODE you are getting in raw blinks, and let us interperit it: 31

What is CEL's? I have no idea what the line pressure solenoid is or where it's located....if that even matters. Symptoms. Intermittent power loss, tranny going into to a default mode in which all the shift ratios are wrong, TPS code from the AT oil temp light. It seems to happen after the car is warm and has been driven for a substantial distance. It's all the same symptoms I had when I took my car to the shop before, found out the TPS was bad and had it replaced.

I hooked the TPS up to a multimeter. It was sitting at .40. I set it to .51 (within the .45 to .55 range required) by unscrewing the 2 screws on the housing and rotating the TPS till the multimeter read .51. This was done with the key on, throttle closed....all under the direction of qualified techs. I checked it again after it acted up the second time and it was still at .51. Symptoms. Intermittent power loss, tranny going into to a default mode in which all the shift ratios are wrong, TPS code from the AT oil temp light. All symptoms of a TPS problem. It seems to happen after the car is warm and has been driven for a substantial distance. I'm now wondering if the dropping resistor is bad or the ECM. I am not sure exactly what role the dropping resistor plays. I was told that the ECM regulates the voltage to the TPS but Nipper mentioned the dropping resistor when I was having problems with my tranny back in Sept. It turned out to be the TPS so I replaced it. A month later the problem seems to be coming back.

I had my Throttle Position Sensor on my 99 Outback replaced about a month ago. Everything was fine till last Friday. I readjusted the TPS and it made it about 40 miles before acting up again. I'm wondering if it's just getting out of adjustment or something is causing it to go bad. Anyone ever dealt with this before?

Yeah, I gotta say I like the wing too. Where are some good places to look for aftermarket/performance parts?

Are there any good mods that can be done to 00-04 Outback Sedans. I love that car but have never seen one with anything done to it. Just looking for some general info on what's possible and where I might be able to shop for aftermarket parts.

I've been going through the Subaru wire testing proceedure for a TPS code. When testing the #1 pin on the TCM harness (power pin) you're supposed to get more than 1 Mohm of resistance when grounded to the chassis and I get .80. Then with all the harnesses plugged in (TCM, TPS, ECM) and the key on (engine off) I have no power at the power pins of all 3. Would the low impedence cause a power loss? The buzzing I've been hearing from the pan is caused by the throttle. So it's a normal thing when the car is on (or car is off, key is on) and the throttle is engaged. However, the buzzing is happening with the key on, engine off, tranny in P....which shouldn't be happening. I'm sure all of this points to something obvious but I'm at a loss for what.

Thanks for the diagrams. That helps a ton. Did some more troubleshooting today. Getting a TPS code (tranny trouble code #31). I think that it may be the cause of all my problems...including the MAF code that keeps popping up. The Throttle Sensor checked out fine on the Select Monitor so I'm checking all the wiring next.

I replaced the TCM already. It helped a lot. I haven't done a full trace of the lines to the TCM. I've been trying to find a good schematic so I know where everything is. I checked out the part numbers thoroughly so I know the TCM and tranny or compatible. As far as the dropping resistor goes, I wanna look into that next but I have no idea what it looks like or where it is. If someone could shed some light on that I would really appreciate it. Thanks

Nothing came up on the Select Monitor except a MAF sensor code and an Evap system code. I replaced the TCM and things are 95% better. I still occasionally get problems though. Intermittent power loss(similar to a fuel delivery problem) followed by harding shifting. Slight binding when turning sharp at low speed on loose surfaces followed by hard shifting....in AWD and FWD. Buzzing from tranny is now louder and constant. The hard shifting comes in the form of the engine reving way high before shifting and then slamming into the next gear and the opposite with down shifting. Every issue can be instantly fixed by either stopping and shifting into neutral and then back into drive, or shifting into reverse and backing up 20-40ft. When it's not acting up it works perfect. Shifts smooth, shifts when it's suppossed to, no problems with manual shifting. I have not had the AT Oil Temp light come back on since replacing the TCM. Is the Dropping resistor my next move? Where is that thing located anyhow? Should I take the tranny back? Thanks, Tforce

Thanks for the info. I've got a TCM coming today from a wrecking yard. If that doesn't do it then I'll be looking into the Drop resistor for sure. Where is that located by the way? I talked to my buddy at the shop and he said nothing popped up when they last used the select monitor....except a code that shows up if you turn the key on while the Mass Air Flow Sensor is unplugged. I'm pretty sure that happened when I was replacing the tranny.

I can hear it from the driver seat with the window down. If you get under the car you can tell it's coming from the tranny. It's not a rattly sound. It sounds electrical...kinda like a starter when your battery is dead. And it's caused by specific things...not just at random. I'm doing all this work under the guidence of my buddy and his shop crew. Very good shop....they fix a lot of things that dealerships can't figure out. They all say it sounds like a solenoid. Will the dropping resistor cause power loss and the flashing AT Oil Temp light?

heat shield? as in the exhaust shroud? cuz the buzzing is coming from inside the tranny.

I would change the WP and termostat for sure. The last thing you wanna do after all this work is have something go wrong, overheat the thing and blow your head gaskets. Make sure you use a Subaru thermo....the aftermarket ones you get at auto parts stores are weak and will fail. If you have any significant oil leaks then it wouldn't hurt to check/replace your front main and valve cover gaskets too.

Almost 2 months ago my AT Oil Temp light started flashing and the tranny started shifting really hard/abruptly and only after reving the engine up quite a bit. I was also experiencing power surges like you get when you're having a fuel delivery problem. 99 Outback Wagon Ltd 125,000 miles Tranny ID# TZ1A2ZJEBA Salvage title 3 wrecks...1 or 2 totals before I bought it and I got sideswiped in the driver front tire a couple years ago. As long as I've owned it there has been a slight delay in the tranny when downshifting if I didn't come to a complete stop at intersections, etc. I've had the AT Oil Temp light come on (solid, not flashing) once a year at random on the old tranny and changed the fluid/filter once. The tranny always seems just a little "off". I got a 105K tranny from a wrecking yard and intsalled it. I replaced the filter and all fluids and flushed the cooler system. The new tranny immediately showed the exact same problems. I drove it around and it seemed to work out the problems on its own. Over the next couple weeks the problems came and went several times. Hard shifting up and down, power loss, AT Oil Temp light flashing, hard shifting when manually shifting from D to 3. When it's working right it drives like a dream. The fluid is full and does not appear or smell burnt. I've been driving it and troubleshooting and it is getting progressively better but today it started having power surges again and then started shifting hard. The AT Oil Temp Light hasn't come back on now for over 5 days despite occassionaly reoccurences. I also notice a buzzing sound coming from the tranny at times. It sounds like a solenoid...doing what I'm not sure. It seems to happend mostly when I first put it in gear after being in park. It buzzes for 5-15 seconds and stops. If I press on the brake and then let off the buzzing comes back for 5-15 secs. Any advice would be much appreciated. I need to make a 8hr road trip this weekend so I'm up for suggestions. The cooling system isn't clogged...the fluid flows fine and the radiator is only 2 years old. I'm wondering if my control module may be bad since this tranny is doing the same stuff the old one did. Or maybe I've just got a random wiring problem. All in all this tranny seems to be in better condition than my old one. Shifts smoother when it's working properly and is more responsive. Thanks for any help. T4