tforce

Ya, the light comes on and stays on when the fuse is in. Fluid looked good. And when I had the tranny flushed back in July the shop said things looked good. That was before I swapped the drum and housing. I thought about the oversensitivity thing....I've fallen victim to that before, but there's def something that isn't quite right. You may be right about having to wait it out. When you say the clutches in the rear drive, are you taking about the rings in the driven drum that cause the wear grooves in the drive drum? I would have suspected something like that had I reused the rear housing from the tranny. But, I used the rear housing from the tranny I took out of the car when I swapped trannys....which had no torque bind, just tranny failure due to the bands falling apart and causing the system to clog. I did, however, use the duty C from the replacement tranny....which was the on that had TB. Here's a quick recap of what happened. Sister had car, tranny went bad, I got car, found replacement tranny, swapped trannys, discovered TB, had tranny flushed/serviced, didn't cure TB, put in FWD fuse, no TB and FWD light on all the time, pulled drive drum and rear housing from old tranny, removed grooves, swapped drum and housing onto replacement tranny (with Duty C from replacement tranny), still have minor issues. The old tranny had NO problems other than the sudden tranny failure. So I figure that either the replacement tranny has issues that are not in the rear drive system or the Duty C is going bad. I also wonder about the Duty C because of the condition of the drive drum I pulled out of the replacement tranny. It had a much worse and different wear pattern than the drum I pulled from the old tranny. I'll have to find a picture and post it. The only thing I noticed that was different about the parts I pulled from the old tranny was the 2 seals on the shaft...they were black, not white. But they seemed fully intact. Sorry about the novel. I really appreciate you guys helping me out on this. I just don't want to tear back into it and waste my time/$ fixing the wrong thing or nothing. I've got an EJ swap to finish and a bunch of home projects to work on too. Tyler

I just fixed the drum about 2 weeks ago. That's why I'm a little confused. Everything I've read pointed to my tranny having a bad drum but a good Duty C. So I had the tranny serviced/flushed and then I repaired the drum. You said Drums. Should I have done something to the driven drum as well? I pulled the drive drum and rear housing out of my old tranny, ground the grooves out of the teeth and put them into my current tranny. I reused the Duty C from my current tranny since it seemed to be working fine. I still have NO visual indications of a Duty C problem. I just don't want to dive back until I'm sure that it's the Duty C and not something else. Can the Duty start failing and causing problems before you start seeing indications from the FWD or AT Oil Temp light?

It seems to do it more/worse in FWD than AWD. And the drivetrain still tenses just a little bit in tight corners....worse in reverse. I'm really at a loss here. All I can think of is that the Duty C is going bad and not showing any signs via the AT Oil Temp and FWD lights.

Ya, the light comes on momentarily at start up just like normal. I'm getting no visual indications of a Duty C problem. Maybe I should put the scan tool on there to see if anything pops up. Is there anything else in an automatic that could go bad and cause this? Like something causing fluid pressure when it shouldn't?

It doesn't do it all the time and sometimes putting in neutral 1st will solve it, but not always. I put the tranny in the car in early summer..used tranny...so it got some new fluid then. Then, I had it flushed/serviced by a shop shortly after. Then it got about 5 qts of new fluid with the housing swap. The shop said everything looked good and I didn't see any signs of gunk in the tranny when I was swapping the housing. If it's fluid/gunk related then I've just got back luck....might have that anyhow. The reason I wonder about the condition of the Duty C is that the grooves on the drum I pulled out were really bad...one in particular is probably too deep to grind out. And I had the car in FWD since I discovered the bind. I haven't driven it a lot, less than 3k, but the solenoid was getting used that whole time. But it was working properly as far as I could tell and the FWD light was on the whole time.

Anyone? Ideas? Thoughts?

Pulled the rear ext housing and drive shaft/hub off the old tranny and smoothed out all the grooves. I pulled the same stuff off the tranny in the car and took it's duty C and put that into the housing from the old tranny. Swapped in the shaft/hub and housing from the old tranny. For the most part I think things are good but I think I may still have a slight "tensing" in tight turns. Just drove it home from the shop after finishing the repairs last night so I'm not sure yet....never dealt with this before so still learning what to look for. I'm wondering if the Duty C is going bad (even though the FWD light stayed on solid with the fuse in) The reason is that the grooves on the Drive Hub from the tranny that was binding were different than the grooves in the tranny that didn't have any bind. They were single narrow grooves and the front most groove (closest to the front of the car) was 2-3 times deeper than the other grooves. The tranny that was wasn't binding had grooves that were pretty even in depth and they were more like 2 grooves side by side...so the driven rings were moving. Also, I had been driving the car in FWD for awhile and it felt like it was starting to bind a little again right before I did the work. There's one other issue that was there before and still happens. Once in awhile when I shift to park, the car stays in place....like the effect of a hill holder on a manual. Then when I turn the car off it releases. I read another thread about this but still am unsure as to the cause. I've adjusted the shift cable twice now so I know that isn't what's causing it. FWD vs AWD doesn't seem to make a difference. No blinking AT Oil Temp light at start up. Putting in neutral before park usually takes care of it...but not always.

Refer to next post....accidentally double posted.

Figured. Thanks for the info. Think I'll try making a new one out of PVC for now. Much more budget friendly and I've got a spot for it already. Will upgrade to a fuel cell or filter setup down the road for sure.

I'm adding it because I'm still working on my swap and all the reading I've done tells me it's a good idea. Plus, I've got the time so why not. Thanks Jerry. I'll check it out.

I made a surge tank out of ABS pipe for my EJ swap but now I'm second guessing the decision. Not sure how it will hold up against gas. Anyone tried using ABS or know if it will hold up? Any other homemade tank solutions that have worked well for anyone? Just want to make sure I'm in the clear before I waste time hooking it up and I don't have the budget to buy an aftermarket tank right now. Tyler

I didn't try moving the car with the tranny in neutral but I don't think it will move because if I let the clutch out while it's in neutral (engine running), the tranny tries to engage. The RPMs start dropping but the car won't move.

I'm hoping it's clutch related too. Gonna pull it 1st and take a look for sure. The only thing that's makes me think it might not be the clutch is that if you hold the clutch in the car rolls free and smooth....so at least it's disengaging. But I don't know that much about how it all works so I'll take your word on that being a possibility. I'll post more once I get the thing out of there...gonna be a couple weeks at least.

132,000 on the car. Tranny would slip/shutter sometimes when it was cold(run time, not air temp). Figured it was the clutch wearing out. Last night it started to shutter pulling out of the driveway and then it became a loud bang, bang, bang, bang. The drivetrain locked/unlocked several times and the car lurched to a halt. Was really hard to get the tranny out of gear and if I let the clutch out (even in neutral) something starts to engage...but it won't move. Engine runs and sounds great. The car rolls just fine as long as the clutch is in. Advice?

I don't have this problem but I've got key system that might help. I originally did it to prevent the heavy ring of keys from hanging in the ignition but it has worked great for stopping the accidental lock out....also prevents wholes from getting poke in your pants pocket by that big rump roast key. I keep the Alarm Fob in my pocket at all times, leave the ignition key hidden inside the car and keep a hide-a-key stash on the body.

I started mine (84 gl) a little over a year ago. Swapped in a PS rack, new clutch, resealed my 2.2 and got it put in. Had custom PS lines done, got 1/2 way through dialing in the AC and have most of the parts I need . Bought a house, added tons of projects to my list, ran out of time and money and gave up. My mine was made up, it had to go. A buddy of mine wanted it and was just waiting for a good day to come check it out. He wrecked his motorcycle, no med ins and had to have surgery on his collar bone....no deal. Kinda put it all out of mind till a few days ago. I'm recovering from knee surgery(#6), can't do much, so I started browsing the forum again and WHAM, I'm back on the project. Gonna skip all the details like AC for now and just get it running.

Nice. Thanks for the help. Can't wait to be done with this project so I can move on. Still need to yank the engine one of these days and take care of all the oil leaks. Maybe finish my EJ swap sometime this decade too.

Was that one driven for awhile with the problems before you fixed it? I only ask because the fiance wants to drive the car to the beach in a week, several hundred miles. I won't be able to do any work to it by then cuz I'm layed up from knee surgery...which also means it's my only driver right now because I'm not allowed to drive a stick. If I keep it in FWD shouldn't I be fine for awhile?

I guess I'll put back into AWD and see if the bind comes back to make sure I didn't break anything and then put it back in FWD. Am I ok to keep driving it in FWD till I can work on the extension housing? Should I replace the Duty C while I've got the extension housing off just to be safe?

OK. The latest...... Originally I had Torque Bind in AWD and FWD. The FWD light came on when the fuse was in. I had NO flashing AT Oil Temp light indications of any kind. I had a full service/flush done by a shop. They said everything looked normal. Torque Bind is still there in AWD but not in FWD and the FWD light is on when the fuse is in. When I switched from AWD to FWD last night, the FWD light came on but the bind was still there. So I started to drive in a figure 8 and I felt something pop/clunk/release....bind went away and she turns like a dream....in FWD. From what I've read in other threads, this leaves me to believe that the Duty C is working properly and that I need to look at the rear extension housing. Any thoughts on that? Should I try doing a few more fluid changes? Just stick with FWD till I can swap out the rear extension with the one off my old tranny, which had NO torque bind (and should I replace the Duty C too while I'm in there)? Thanks, Tyler

Ya, the tires are good. I checked the air, evened them all out and it didn't help. The car never had this issue when my sister was driving it. I could do the drain and fill myself but I figure with a used tranny and the problems with the original tranny it would be wise to have a full pro service and flush done regardless of wheher I swap out ext housings or not. 6/02/2010- Went out last night and did a bunch of figure 8's. Didn't help at all.

I'm concerned that some of the gunk that broke free from the old tranny is still in the system. I just drained the old tranny and swapped the new one in so there could still have been stuff sitting in the cooling lines, etc. Maybe that could be causing the problem? The guy I bought the tranny from said he didn't notice anything when he drove the car home. But it was in a rear end wreck and he bought it for parts. So he only drove just enough to get it home and wasn't paying too much attention to detail. So far completing tight turns hasn't done anything to help but I haven't gone out and done several of them on purpose all in a row. I'll try that when I have a chance.

My sister's 95 Legacy LSi, 165K, had the Auto tranny crapped out. The dealer told her they thought the bands were falling apart and the particles were plugging the filter, hence slowing the flow of fluid once the car had driven a few miles and causing the tranny to slip. I picked up a used tranny with 150k and put it in. All is well except for some minor torque bind. Seems to occur even when the the fuse is in the FWD slot. NO AT Oil Temp or warning lights of any kind are showing any signs of problems. I've read several threads on torque bind and am pretty convinced I need to do some work in the rear extension housing. I still have the old tranny so I can rob parts off of it. I'm also going to take the car into a shop and have the tranny flushed/serviced. My question is...should I take the car in for the service before or after working on the rear ext? Maybe I get lucky and the flush will cure the problem? Thanks. Tyler