DPDISXR4Ti

Thanks for the input XSNRG!

I was thinking that might be the case. It's too damn cold to bother messing with this now. Hmm, wonder how readily I might be able to just take a hack saw through the shaft? If the FD lights it up for their drill before I get to it, I won't be too upset. Hell, I wouldn't have even bothered except for the fact there were a pair of keys in the thing! If I find out, I'll post details back here.

Okay, thanks. I guess they're riveted in place onto the shaft at the factory. I've already got the 90-degree attachment, so I guess I'll have to try putting it to use. Thanks...

I've got free access to remove stuff from a '88 Wagon, so I thought I'd grab the ignition switch, since the one on my '85 Brat is on it's last legs and I've got two keys for this one from the '88. It appears the steering wheel needs to come off and then the whole switch just slides off the column, yes? What's the "trick" to getting the switch loose off the column? Is it just a friction fit, and I need to break it loose? Anyone recall what size socket I need for the steering wheel nut? Oh yea, one last question.... Will this switch readily swap over to the Brat, both physically and electronically? Thanks!

Well, the car I can take stuff off for nothing is a '86 wagon. I took a quick look at the rear belt retractors, and the mechanism looked very similar, but not sure about the mounting brackets. Considering the only investment will be my time, I guess I'll just have to take them off and find out.

Thanks Rob- I kinda figured access to both was from the inside somewhere. Now I just gotta get the hatch opened somehow.

This post is related to the other one I just posted, but I thought it was deserving of it's own. As we all know, the Brat jump-seat belt parts can get pretty ratty, being exposed to the elements for the past 15+ years. Has anyone determined if the belt/retractor mechanism from another donor is the same/similar? What about any of the other seat belt parts?

I've got an opportunity to remove some stuff from a '86 Wagon before the FD uses it to "drill" on. The rear bumper mounting brackets look similar to my '85 Brat, but the mounting arms aren't exposed like they are on the Brat. Where do you get access to them? Are the rear tail-lights bolts/screws accessed from inside the car rather than externally like the Brat? The rear hatch is locked so I couldn't get a look from the inside.

Announcing the Innovate Motorsports Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Meter Group Purchase Due to popular request, I am organizing a "Group Buy" for the LM-1 Digital A/F Meter. At $349 (including the sensor) this unit has broken through the previous price points for Wideband A/F monitoring and recently won the "Technology Award for Best New Product-Performance and Technology" at the recently concluded SEMA 2003 show. To learn more about this product, you can visit Innovate's home page at: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php There is also a technical discussion group for the product at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/InnovateLM1/ Here's how the pricing works out: if 5-10 units sold $335 (shipping included) if 10 or more are sold $325 (shipping included) Since I know none of us (including me), want to wait around very long on this, I am keeping the sign-up window very short. Here's how it works: 1) Send me an e-mail (brad.anesi@netiq.com) no later than Tuesday (11/18) indicating that you want to participate. All I need is your name & phone#. Please, no "Maybe if I get some money together by next week I'll buy one", just definite commitments. 2) On Tuesday evening, I will immediately let everyone know what discount level we have met (I fully expect we'll hit the $325 price) and then I will supply the discount code so that you can order on-line or call the order into Innovate using a credit card. All transactions will be handled directly with Innovate - I am NOT collecting any money, just organizing the group buy. That's it! Any questions, fire away! Brad

Hah, says who? I already own two, one of which generates 320 RWHP. The idea is to retain all of the Merkur suspension and drive-train, and turn it into a monster mini truck that handles! The downside is no 4WD, unless I import one from a Euro Cossie version.

Yea, a tow trailer is a possibility. Funny you should mention buying a Ford - how 'bout I create a "XR4Brati" instead? Take a look at the attached picture.

Yes, I know it'll be a tight fit, since it's a full size quad - no question the gate will need to stay open. My thinking behind building a platform forward of the wheel wells over the jump seat brackets (equal in height to wheel wells), is so the quad wouldn't go slamming into the window as it rolled off the wells.

Yeah, I already figured out it wouldn't fit between the wheel wells - damn wannabe truck! Did you set the ATV in the bed offset from center, rolling just one side over the wheel well? I was thinking I might build a little ramped platform that sat into place over the rear seat brackets (once the seats are removed).

My trim has already gone AWOL. I was thinking about replacing it with some diamond plate, but haven't yet bothered. Thanks for the feedback, Brad

Anyone know if there's a rated load capacity for the tailgate. I'm just wondering if it would okay to load my 550 lb ATV via ramps off of it. Brad

Okay, got it - page 82 of the 1985 manual. It's a little weak on details, but I imagine I can figure it out once I crawl under there. Thanks! Brad

Someone had mentioned that you can change the ride height on the Brat - could someone tell me how this is done? I was in the woods this weekend with the Brat and really could have used some extra clearance, especially on exit with a load of fire-wood! :-)

Well, I definetley exceeded 850 lbs, but it was a 2 mile drive, so no harm I suppose. But I hate to think what would happened if I hit a pot hole! Brad

What's the rated maximum haul weight for a Brat? Half ton? What's the most anyone has actually carried in one? I carried a "half load" of logs yesterday - probably about 1000 pounds. I would have carried more, but I was concerned that I was over the limit as it was. The tired ol' 1.8 agreed, as did the suspension. Good thing I didn't have to travel on the highway - I'm not sure I could have carried any significant speed up a hill. Brad

In almost all cases, it's less expensive to replace the vehicle than repair the rust. The thing to do, is look to the southern states for a replacement vehicle. Even after transport costs (assumming you can't go pick up the car yourself), the overall cost will be less. Case in point... I recently purchased a rust-free Brat in Texas for $400 and paid nearly $800 to have it shipped back to New York. Could I have found a rust-free Brat in the northeast for $1200? No! Could I have bought a local rusty Brat and had it repaired for less than $1200? No!!! I have no further questions, your honor....

Mine "works" exactly like that. Never thought of it as being a feature though. You must work in Marketing! I also have the "feature" of barely being able to turn the key off unless I wiggle it while applying counter-clockwise pressure. A toggle switch may be in order at some point.