Jonv23

I don't know how far you guys (and gals) drive on the highway with your gen 1's. I decided to take my 79 Brat from Muskegon MI to Detroit today. I was a little apprehensive at first, because I normally make the trip in my 05 Titan. It's 203 miles one way, and the Brat never had a problem at all. I had it at about 68 to 75 the whole way. I normally only drive it in the city, but decided that today was the day to see how dependable it is. There are some cars that are more fun to drive no matter how much they are worth and what bells and whistles they have (or don't have). It was definitely a step back today without the navigation, the ipod, or the Rockford Fosgate tunes! But I loved it the whole way......especially the thumbs up along the way!

Forgot the picture! Also, how much do you want for the heads that are laying in the back of the parts van. I need an extra set to shave for my pick up.

Spiffy, If you run the van with mixed gas you WILL seize the motor. It HAS to have the oil to go through the bearings and the crank. It will run for a little while, but it will seize eventually. You would be MUCH better off to get some way of holding the oil in the tank (or another one) and letting the oil pump and motor do the mixing. Also, the mix changes under acceleration. It is very heavy at idle and less oil to gas at WOT. I don't know how bad your oil tank is, but I have taken them out, cleaned them with lacquer thinner, and used a weller solder gun to plastic weld it back together. Usually they crack right along the seam and thats all, so it's easy to fix. I just don't want to see you blow the motor and be totally bummed. Jon

That weight and gas tank capacity is for the sedan. The van is 8 gal, and 1200 lbs.

Well.....I didn't want to totally throw them under the.......van!

The numbers on that page are a little off. The weight is actually 1200 lbs. Also the gas tank is 8 gal, and the final drive is 3.88, and it's 60 inches tall. Other than that, cars101 has it close. Jon

I have the truck version.....1969. Yep, it's a 356cc 2 stroke! It is a blast to drive! I've driven exotic cars worth 100,00 more than the 360, but as far as bang for the buck.......there is NO COMPARISON!

For my 79 BRAT, I bought both front axles from Rock Auto and installed both the same day that I got them. They worked perfectly. You are supposed to use new spring pins according to the manual, but I have never used new ones, and never had a problem. Good Luck Jon

When I got my 79 BRAT, the front calipers were frozen and the rear cylinders were popped out and leaking badly. I think it's cheaper to just get new (rebuilt) calipers. Rock Auto has tons of parts for the Gen 1 Brats. The calipers I got from them had the pads already on them. I think they called them "loaded" calipers. I got 2 new calipers for the front, 2 new cylinders for the rear and new pads and shoes all around. You want to be sure that the first thing you do is replace the brakes! If you take it for the first ride with no brakes.........it will turn quickly from a restoration vehicle to parts vehicle! Good luck with the project! Takes lots of pictures! Jon

Good going on the clutch job! Gives you a sense of accomplishment! The first engine I ever replaced was in my brat, and when that baby fired up on the first try afterward, that was the greatest feeling! Well Done:headbang:

Wish I still had my first car, 79 brat dl red with black/yellow stripped roll bar, and a 2X4 under the hood, between the struts to them up! Still ran like a dream!

That's true on the splines. The alignment tool doesn't line them up, just the clutch plate and the pilot bearing. When the splines don't line up, you spin the output shaft (while the tranny is in gear) and it slides together. I used a screwdriver through the hole that the spring pin goes through (while pushing forward on the transmission). I'm sure there are other good ways to do it also, but I think that was the first MAJOR auto work I did. I was 16 at the time, and it was my first car. I had never worked on anything, and was on a quick learning curve. Good luck on the install! Let us know how everything goes. I'll be installing a set of headers on my Nissan Titan while you are doing that clutch. I'll bet the clutch goes quicker than the headers! I actually have to remove the motor mounts on the Titan and lift the engine to get the headers on! Jon

I haven't changed a subaru clutch since high school (many moons ago) but I have done a dozen or so on other vehicles in that time. If you have the clutch alignment tool, it is a BREEZE to line up the splines. I even used a broom handle one time on a VW rabbit. I tried to tighten a clutch one time through the timing hole and needless to say, I didn't get the bolts tight enough and there was catastrophic damaged to the new clutch. The other way the whole thing can be done is spend just a little more time taking both the tranny and motor out, leave the bolts on the pressure plate just loose enough to be able to jimmy the shaft in, then slide the tranny back and finish tightening the bolts on the pressure plate. (To spec) The good part about having the motor and tranny both out..........take the opportunity to power wash everything, including the engine bay. (It isn't everyday that you have the opportunity to wash the engine bay minus the engine)!

Thanks for the props! look at the 2nd page of the thread.....Let's see the brats I have a couple bigger pictures in that thread. All it needs now is paint! I have a set of NOS BRAT decals for it when I do paint it. I wish I could find a set with a silver background (like the ones on it now). The ones I have are burgundy in the background, but I like the silver better. I have never seen another brat with the same decal as mine. Anybody know where to get a set of those? If I find a set, I am going to sell the NOS set I have. Thanks, Jon

Quick note, I just looked at my parts catalog for all the grounding points (since my brat is locked up in storage, waiting for the snow to melt) and there is a ground clip at the alternator, and one at the radiator that I would check. ALso, there is one (or maybe a couple) that come directly off the battery. I would check those first.

I don't think the heater core leaking has anything to do with the dash lights not working. I think that might have just been a coincidence that both happened around the same time. The core is basically at the very bottom of the dash. I would bet on a loose ground. Check around under the dash and see if you can find a loose ground. Also, it seems like when I had my other 79 BRAT a VERY looooong time ago, it had a similar problem and it was a rusted ground under the hood. Good Luck! Jon

I thought I PM'd everybody back that sent me a PM. If I didn't sorry. I told everybody I paid a hundred bucks. I would like to get as much of my money back as possible since I can't use it on a 79 brat (which is what it was listed as)(with bad pictures I might add). I just finished scanning the WHOLE 1979 Parts Catalog, SO......I typed the part numbers of the one on ebay and the one that I have into my Adobe and it searched the whole parts catalog. Here is what it came up with. The one on ebay is a rear 77 4wd station wagon. The one that I have is a rear 77 stage II or 78 4wd station wagon. I told everybody that PM'd me to make me an offer. If somebody wants it.......make me an offer. To me and my BRAT, it's useless! Thanks, Jon

Dude, you are like 2 days late. There was a set of both front lights with lenses that just sold for like 10 bucks, and a full set of side markers (front and rear) for around the same......maybe 12 bucks. Keep looking on ebay, there is gen 1 brat stuff on there all the time. Nice score on the BRAT though! Just keep at it. It may try your patience (and wallet) and times. Jon

(sorry for the deviating reply as well)!! I wish I could take credit for keeping it that way since 1979! I do keep it in inside, (either my garage or storage containter). I never let the sun hit it! Fortunately, the previous owner did the same thing!

I am interested in a core as well. I found a NOS valve so I am set there, but I think I have a VERY small leak in the core. I have a 79 brat, so I would assume that it is a gen 1 / stage 2? I wish there was a way to replace the core without tearing the whole dash apart. My dash is PERFECT. It doesn't have so much as a hairline crack on it. Does anybody know if there is a way to replace it without tearing out the dash? I have a custom radiator shop in the town where I live, so I will contact them and see if they are able to take a sample core and remake them as well. Thanks, Jon

I bought an AWESOME Cannon double sided scanner that feeds a page in, scans it, spits it out, then turns it around and scans the other side. I bought it specifically for scanning the BOR (book of reprints in Subaru 360 Drivers' Club lingo) and the parts manuals for the 360's. I have all of them scanned and saved to external hard disk. I have made probably 100 or so CD's for the 360 club. When a new member joins, they have the choice of getting the BOR and parts manuals on paper (for 45.00) or on CD (for 10.00) (I think that's the price). In almost every case, they opt for the CD version. I can't wait to get the parts manual for the Subaru 1600 scanned, it will be nice to just use the search on Adobe and find what I am looking for. Jon

I just recently purchased the 1979 version of the parts identification manual along with the parts price guide (revision March 1979). I am currently scanning it to CD ROM as a PDF, and I am curious if anybody is interested in buying a CD. I am just trying to cover my cost of materials really. Once scanned, it will be indexed and if you are looking for a part, all you have to do is enter the name of the part in the search bar on adobe reader and it should take you to the pages with that part on it. I did the same thing for the Subaru 360 Pick Up, and it works fantastic. It shows a very good detail of every part on the vehicle (in exploded view) and the part number for every single part. Let me know if interested. Thanks, Jon

I know that it isn't for a gen 1 BRAT. I have a NOS one for my BRAT, and it isn't the same as that. This one has square holes for some kind of trim or something. It also has oval shaped holes on the ends (as you can see in the pics). The gen 1 BRAT bumper is more or less square, and pretty straight. This bumper is shaped like a dang banana! Jon

Well, I took the bumper out of the box and looked at it. First of all, it is BRAND NEW OLD STOCK (it still has a plastic like film on it). Second, I noticed a very small dent (that I took a good picture of). Third, I don't know if it is a front or rear (based on the label on the box)(which I took a good picture of also). If anybody is interested, and knows what it goes to, let me know. Thanks, Jon

I think I may have a NOS front bumper for that. I bought it about as year ago, it was listed as a 1979 BRAT bumper, but it isn't (it's older). I will get it out and take a picture if you are interested. Jon