del

What I have; 1988 gl wagon, 5sp dr tranny, modified turbo cross member. what I want; 5lugs from a xt6. Question will the xt6 cross member work in my ea82 wagon? thanks del edit; my car is not turbo charged, and this is why my cross member is modified.

I drilled my hubs for six lugs, my nissan wheels were made in such a way they could not be adapted to four lug. Replacing a wheel in the future will be easier to, replacing a hub will be a hassle though. As far as finding hubs drilled for six lugs, drill yours, get a machine shop to do it, or I believe SJR does that service (contact Scott for details). Which wheels will fit, (not Dakota) anything that has the right back spacing, width, diameter with six lugs (not Dakota). hope this helps del

This winter I installed the rear lift while I was wintering in Florida. Here are the results. and the lift. Ended up spacing out the shock mounts out with washers. If I had this to this again I would weld the nuts on the inside to make it easier to replace the shocks. My Father gave me a spare tyre holder so I guess I am building a bumper next. It is hinged on one end so I can open the hatch. del

My thought is these plates are also what the transmission mounts to (4-speed auto is different). If you do not space the plates down the engine and transmission will be at an angle. just my 2c del

Video would be better. del:grin:

If the dist. cap is in the center of the engine= ea81 (no timing belt) If the dist. cap is next to the strut tower (us models, drivers side)= ea82 (timing belt) del

I have one out of an 1988 gl-10, would like to know the miles on it. Two bits of bad news though, I have no idea if it is bad or good. Second I am currently in florida as a snowbird, and the parts are in washington state. If you are still interested come april, let me know. del

My fan does not come on with the AC, and I did not know if it was suppose to (this is the first time I have had the AC working). Mine does have a senser in the raidator that turns the fan on if it gets to warm, and it does work in the summer time (now I can not get it warm enough to turn on). The summers in Yakima can easily be over 40c (100f +), so a working AC is a cool thing. del

Car in question 1988 GL wagon spfi. Is the electric radiator fan supose to come on with the AC? Or does it only come on when the coolant reaches a certain temp? thanks del

I tried the search and found nothing on pcv's. I bought a used engine here in florida with 50,000 miles on it, should I replace the valve? Does anyone know the interval or do you replace it when there is a problem? del

Even with problems my subaru got me to florida, pulling a teardrop trailer (see avatar). Spent the day working on the subaru in a short sleeve shirt (80f+ today :banana: ), I lost compresion on two cyliinders into the crank case while crossing the rockies:( . del

The glass is spider webbed on my sunroof so I need to replace it. The closest one I can find is $125 and is 40 miles away. This price seems high, am I just cheep? del

Today my nephew came over with his stock 90 something loyal, so I had to put them together and snap a few shots. Where did that tree come from. I did have to move his car, and man I hate auto seatbelts, glad mine has just regular belts. Now for a question of taste, the back originally sat very high, and I as yet have not lifted it. Do I leave it alone, or raise it one or two inches?

I spaced the centre bearing down. I tried turning the bearing over but then it touched the exhaust, so I found longer bolts and spacers and this is the result. sorry about angle of pic. del

Today I worked on the shifter. Two things I have to say are, this is a two inch lift, and this is not the proper way, but is how I did it. First gear put the lever rubbing against the sheet metal. I trimmed the offending metal. All the gears now appear to work, no test drive yet. my other problem was the d/r shifter was hitting the centre consul before it went into fwd. My solution was to take out the shifter and take my b.f.h. (very big hammer) and beat it flatter, and now it will shift into all positions. Note I have not drove it yet, need lights and insurance (monday), and the little mount at the back of the shifter is not spaced down. del

Thats to simple, I need to find a more difficult solution. Just kidding thanks for the idea, now I know how to fix it. del

modified legacy. both stock pieces. Does anyone have a picture of this in the car? Stock preferred. There is a large end and a small end, which one goes where? My steering wheel is way off now, and yes we did mark it so it would be at least close.

If the piece is steel, cut it in half and weld a 2.5" spacer in the middle. The spacing on ea82 bolts I never measured them with a tape, just used the crossmember bolts to find the spacing. Sorry as long as the spacing is right, I did not care what the measurement was. Only now I wish I had, too late now.del

Will find out soon, today off to the welder to work on the steering shaft and some other welding projects. I sold my other small car yesterday, so I need to get this one on the road. So expect some progress. del

Worked on my lift last night. Installed the six blocks, that lower the radius rods. need to work on the steering. Bought a steering shaft off a subaru legacy (not outback), it is a half inch too short. Does the steering column slide forward by chance? Need to work on the shifter. I think fwd is currently unavailable. Need to raise the back so it at least is level. I read somewhere accord springs will work. Front or back, what year?

A note on drill bit size for the cross member spacer. I drilled all the way through, with a press, the same size as the original bolts. Then I drilled out the two bottom holes with the same size of bolts I can find locally (7/16"). I did not have to drill out the cross member. del

The two blocks I have made so far are 8" long (sorry no metric measurements, here in merka we are metrically challenged). The two bolts that hold the cross member up are hooked together by a brace. One fillips screw and it comes out through the top. Used this as a gage to drill the holes. In other words I never measured them. The strut braces I cut 4" pipe at the same angle the strut tops are mounted at. I wanted the strut tops the same distance apart, just the distance of the lift (my case 2") farther down. I have a parts car, so I used the strut caps off it (need I say be careful when taking apart struts, they will kill you if you do it wrong). I made plates (same thickness as caps) to fit the strut caps, center hole and mounting studs. When I had the three parts welded together be careful to line them up. tips; Mark the front, make a right and left (do not ask on either tip). Hope this helps. Recommendation if you at all question the strut caps, buy them (sjr comes to mind). del

Numbchhux thanks for the reply, I thought it could be left off. Have considered tucking up the exhaust when finished. Enjoy the lift. del

The cross member that is at the rear of the tranny. Does not hook at all to the tranny. Is it important, I assume it was put there for a reason? del

First a question, what is this crossmember for? do I need it? Almost finished one block for the engine cross member (needs paint). No the bolts are not tight yet. Tomorrow paint and drill out the other one. del