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drewcifer85710

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Everything posted by drewcifer85710

  1. I'm sure I could find someone to purge it, actually, but the problem is that the car's got a blown head gasket and 5 quarts of milkshake-style oil and I'm not moving the thing for any reason at all until I get new gaskets on it and at least have a good hard look at the heads --Drew
  2. Aside from the obvious legal/environmental issue, is there any reason a partially charged AC compressor should not be removed from the car, without being properly purged/collected first? I'm aware that there's a great amount of pressure involved in the lines, but when disconnected with the proper protective measures, is this a big deal? Before I upset anyone, I'd have this done legally and correctly if the circumstances permitted, but they just absolutely do not. We're talking about an '87 n/a GL, btw. Thanks, Drew
  3. From the posted Carfax link right in his own ad: Year/Make/Model: 1988 SUBARU DL Body Style: STATION WAGON Engine: 1.8L H4 MFI/FI Fuel: GASOLINE Driveline: FRONT WHEEL DRIVE Manufactured in: JAPAN Safety Equipment: Active (manual) belts Standard Equipment: Power Steering, AM / FM, Power Brakes I sent him a message via ebay. Hope he was just mistaken and not purposefully misrepresenting the car.. that's not cool. --Drew
  4. Not sure about the VIN (can't remember where I found that online decoder last) but I don't see the red button on the gear selector. IIRC, pushbutton 4wd would've been the only option for an A/T DL these years.
  5. Don't mean to hijack, but this is fairly close to something I haven't been able to figure out: I have the INT setting on my 86 GL-10 but I don't see how I'm supposed to adjust the frequency of the wipers.. the way it functions now INT is just a little slower than LO, which isn't really intermittent at all, at lest by the standards of every other car I've had. Owner's manual no help. Am I missing something or is that all there is? --Drew
  6. I get roughly 200-220 miles to a tank (realistically around 13 gal when i fuel up) with my 86 EA82T. Tires are stock at 185/70/13. Mileage improves a bit if I keep my right foot out of the radiator, but that wouldn't be any fun.
  7. I hear a full-size stock will fit in there with a little deflating. Dunno the specs on the original donut (mine's shredded!) but I'd think a new (to you) one might be easy to come by from a JY or member.
  8. Mmkay, so I bothered to look this one up in the '86 Owner's manual. It gives permissible engine speed: For a GL models with AT, and any n/a GL-10: 6500 Everything else: 6000 Weird the GL AT models and GL-10 would be separate while a carbed DL and my Turbo MPFI GL-10 fall into the same category. Were those AT GL models and n/a GL-10s the cars that got SPFI in '86? Is that the determining factor?
  9. My 86 owner's manual calls it 6k for the manual and 6.5k for the automatic, that's on my EA82T. IIRC there are maybe other figures for carbed/SPFI engines.
  10. Thanks for the good info. I should've mentioned that this is the car in my sig, '86 GL-10 4x4 turbo wagon. The motor only has 60k or so on it. I'll have to check to see if the driver's side hose is simliar; may as well correct that too. As far as I can tell this is the only big leak, at least there aren't any spots on the driveway to indicate otherwise. It's an annoyance because it'll seep out overnight and then cook off the valve cover on my way to work in the morning. It's smoky and smelly for a minute or two.
  11. Today I finally got around to doing the airbox mod that caleb planted in my head a while back (thanks!) and while I had the airbox off the car I finally found the source of a really obnoxious oil leak. I don't know this engine too well though, so can someone help me out and identify that fat red hose with the oil seeping from it? Sorry I couldn't get a better angle on the pic, but the leak is at the end of that line, which is obstructed. Thanks Drew
  12. I'm asking this more out of curiosity than anything else. This is the car in the sig. It has a set of stripes down the side and gray decals below the moulding. I haven't seen this on other cars. Is this from the factory? Also, I'm missing the 4WD TURBO decal that goes on the rear hatch. Any ideas where I might be able to come up with one? Thanks, Drew
  13. I'm 6'3/250# and have no problems fitting into my 86 GL wagon. Room to spare, actually.
  14. While I'm thinking about it, will a plain old analog dash plug up to where my digidash goes? Common sense tells me that the sending units would all be different and this wouldn't work at all, but what do I know
  15. Congrats on your find. And thanks are probably in order, maybe it was your rejection that let me take it for $400 less? Meeky: thanks for the suggestion. A bad rubber (well, whatever it is) hose shrinking with the cold might explain that only intermittent loss, and the location looks like it might be right. I'd certainly prefer that over any head/gasket/block issue. I'll have a look in the next couple days when I get time to tinker with everything and let you know. Thanks.
  16. It's the same one. I actually picked the thing up at Camelback VW/Subaru. As far as I can tell that coolant's only sitting on/burning off something in the engine compartment. I can't detect anything in the exhaust, and got a couple second opinions just to be sure. The 4wd thing is very low on my list of worries. Maybe once I figure out where the hell that coolant's coming from. It ran a little rough for me when I picked it up in Phx, too. I drove it across Camelback to a gas station, filled up and got a bottle of injector cleaner and proceeded to burn half of it up on the drive back to Tucson. It's run just fine since that. Now that I think of it, the guy mentioned to me twice that there was extra coolant in the trunk, which pisses me off for two reasons: 1. There wasn't any extra coolant in the trunk 2. If it's leaking anything, just tell me. I don't expect to buy an $1100 car that doesn't need any repairs anyway. Oh well.
  17. My current Subaru passes with no problems, but I had to do something similar with a Beetle I had. Only Tucson and Phx metro require emissions in AZ, so I just registered the car to a friend's address in Safford. They never gave me any trouble.
  18. Hey, I'm new to all this and have a couple issues I couldn't find good answers to anywhere else. I picked up an '86 GL-10 4x4 Turbo wagon a couple weeks ago. Damn near perfect cosmetic shape and all the mechanical stuff seemed solid enough. The price was right for me at $1100. The car has 160k on the body and roughly 60k on a new (not rebuilt) EA82T. I've got a couple questions about a specific ailment and a few more general ones. 1. I was careful to say coolANT problems, not coolING problems. The car runs cool all the time. When it's started with a COLD engine, I get several drops of antifreeze on the ground. I can't pinpoint the source, but they seem to come from roughly the front left side of the engine. Most of it seems to hit the exhaust or the front skid plate before making its way to the ground. Once the engine warms up, the leak stops completely but whatever coolant is left sitting around on metal (presumably the exhaust, or engine, I dunno) burns off and is extremely obnoxious (and embarassing in traffic!) for a minute or so. Once that's done everything is fine as long as the engine stays even kind of warm. I'd think a bad head or gasket would explain all this, except I don't smell ANY coolant in the exhaust, and I haven't lost any appreciable amount of coolant yet. I guess it doesn't take much to steam up on hot metal. Any other guesses? 2. The coolant overflow tank is always at a more-or-less correct level. I tried to add a bit of pepper to the radiator and noticed the water stays completely up to the cap all the time. I've never had to do anything to the radiators in any of my cars, but do recall that the water never stayed completely up to the top of the cap when the car was off. Is that normal, or is it blocked somewhere? I've run the car for hours at a time and it always stays very cool, so obviously it's still getting water. 3. The replacement engine in this car was brand-new, not a rebuild. I think I read there were differences in the turbo set-up, and maybe some others, between the '86 and '87 EA82T's. If that's true, how can I tell which one I've got? 4. My digidash is 100% but the orange LEDs coupled with the age of this thing make it real hard to read. Will an '87-up digidash fit this with little to no modification? And is it worth doing? That is, is the green any easier to see or did those units maybe age any better? 5. Where can I get another one of those little spare tires? Mine's trashed, and I value my trunk (wagon?) space and would like to keep storing it under the hood. Thanks in advance. Drew
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