subie_newbie

Just a note for everyone bemoaning the rust-belt: Your problem is spreading; Oregon started using a liquid de-icer three years ago that is only put on the roads once and is supposed to work all winter. Very cost effective... oh, and it's three times as corrosive as salt.

There are things working for and against each tire. Here's how it works academically: Larger diameter tires decrease your gear ratio making the engine run at a lower RPM for the same speed = better fuel economy However, larger diameter tires also weigh more and take more throttle to accelerate the same = less fuel economy. Also, your larger tires are a wider tire, which will create more rolling resistance = less fuel economy. What happens in reality is people that can handle the slower acceleration and drive with the same light right foot will notice a difference from a major change in tire diameter to a bigger tire. Wider tires will always hurt your economy (think pedaling a mountain bike vs. a road bike). Most people will notice no difference when going to a smaller tire other than their car is more peppy, unless they drive a lot of cruising miles. Good luck!

I would like to add one little side-note to this thread: when checking resistances in any circuit with a light bulb, be it a headlight or a dummy light, dash lights or the glove box light, you will NOT get infinite resistance. Any coil/transformer will work the same way (such as those in relays or the ignition coil itself). I saw awhile back he stated he's getting resistances in the tens of thousands of ohms - beware you're probably seeing some circuit board or relay coil and not a true problematic short. Think in the tens of ohms when looking for major problems.

if you used a c6 you'd double the weight of the car!!

Oregon is like a really beautiful woman; often tempermental, but she's worth it, and when others see you with her they're oh-so jealous. Caboobaroo, I'm sure she's waiting with open arms to welcome you back. /braggart hijack

Caught me... I'm an old GM guy, so I figured the hoses went into the passenger compartment. Thanks for the update.

I think NEW single wire O2 sensors are around $30, so don't go blowing $30 at the junk yard when you might be able to get a new one for the same price. I stand corrected. $15 ebay FTW!

If you get a pipe joint in the right diameter (5/8"?) you can just cut the hoses inside the engine bay with a razor blade and lift them quickly, insert the splice into one, then push them together, clamp. At most, you'll spill a cup or two, plus whatever comes out of the heater core side (minimal). This way, you don't have to dig under your dash right now, it will be easier to just pull the heater core into the passenger compartment without needing to worry about the hoses being too short and messing with hose clamps while on your back, and it'll force you to get new hoses, which you should do anyway.

Thanks for the input everyone. The Corrado and 68 Mustang are up on the chopping block, then I think it's an Impreza for me. Something with disk brakes and a 2.2... or a 2.0T

Hey all, I sold my AC system complete with the radiator fan, but I'd really like to have a second fan up there since most of my car's duty is at slow speed full throttle Are there any better-flowing options that fit behind that HUGE water pump shaft? Anyone in PDX have a stocker laying around I can come pick up for a few bucks?

What does she weigh?

Wow that is WICKED ugly.

What year OEM will fit? i.e. what years was the hatch the same shape?

How much? Any idea what shipping to Portland would be? It seems here in the subaru NW I'd be able to find one in a junkyard. 96 had them, though, that's kinda what I'm trying to find out.

So does that mean heater core in this car? Usually it's passenger side...