teasdam

that's what my engine looked like when I opened it up. As mentioned above, a couple of the freeze plugs had rusted through and needed replacing. Also, the crank and bearings were in bad shape from spinning in water, so that had be ground and oversize bearings put it. If they stopped using the car immediately it may not be a problem...but the guy I bought my car from drove it home like this so I had my problems. Another thing...the oil relief pipes in the camcases are apparently not made of aluminum and they were incredibly corroded. I might've cleaned them up but I just replaced them lest I get a big chunk of rust in the oil system down the road. That's all I can recall that was damaged as a direct result of the milkshake.

I just rebuilt my ea82 and I too was somewhat confounded by this setup when I was reassembling those parts...I thought for sure I'd lost a part somewhere along the way. When I first installed it I didn't push hard enough and it leaked where the pipe meets the pump. So I pulled it back out, put some sealant on the ring, and worked it backed in place good the second time. The end of that pipe was rusted up more than I'm sure it should be, but so far it seems to be working just fine. This is on the intake (suction) side of the pump, so I wouldn't guess that there is nearly as much pressure on that seal as there would be on the output side.

the two conditions the manual gives for timing adjustment are... 1) test mode wires connected and 2) idle switch must be ON ...ok, the test wires are simple enough. But now the questions... What do they mean by the idle switch? Is this something I'm supposed to DO, or something the car should do itself and I just need to CHECK? Do I just put a multimeter to the idle switch wire of the TPS and check for power? If so, I don't have a DMM...would a 12V test light suffice?

the machinist I took my ea82 to said that painting an aluminum engine block is about the worst thing you can do. Said something like, the aluminum has pores and needs to "breath" to dissipate heat, where paint will fill the pores and impede cooling. So, that's what one machinist said anway...I was never motivated enough to paint my block anyway so I never looked into the veracity of his thoughts

I rebuilt the ea82 in a 1990 loyale and I've just about got it running but there are still some lingering problems. The ECU light is flashing a code 7 which, as far as I can tell, is nonsense as the lowest code possible is an 11. I've been playing with all combinations of the test mode and read memory connectors but it insists on flashing a 7. Now, this is seven short flashes and nothing else, so I'm pretty sure I'm not just retarded (er, mentally handicapped, that is). Any explanations? Are computers known to give nonsense codes if they are damaged? Some info that may or may not be relevant.... 1. When I run the engine with the test mode on (to adjust timing), it seems to run ok. It also seems to produce a ton of exhaust though, especially when I move the dizzy to get to the 20B timing that my Chilton calls for. I only have the exhaust headers attached right now so I don't know if the rest of the exhaust piping will have any effect on this. It's not nasty blue smoke like I'm burning oil, or sweet white smoke like burning coolant...just tons o' exhaust that makes my garage inhabitable within 30 seconds. 2. Also, while the engine runs ok in test mode, it idles rough once I disconnect the test mode wires. I'm assuming this means the computer is trying to adjust for something and is itself causing the rough idle. (I also assume this is where my mystery code comes in.) 3. I shorted the TBI wire loom early on, but there has been no apparent damage as a result. But then again, I've been having trouble with the fuel pump which I suspect may be computer related. Point being, it is possible that I fried that computer.

My experience is mostly with the Chevy 350, and I guess I'm jumping in late here but I have a question about these subie engines.... Noisy lifters seem to be a common problem judging by the posts in this forum. First, I have an ea82 SPFI...the things my Chilton's refers to as "lash adjusters" I would've called hydraulic lifters. Are these synonomous terms? I assume these lash adjusters require pressure from the oil system to operate properly, so as I understand this, if they are niosy it's most likely a problem with air in the system or some other low oil pressure related issue? One more...specifically, is this noise created by the back end of the rocker arms smacking against the top of the lifters?

I've just rebuilt the ea82 in my 1990 loyale and I've got the engine back in the car, but I wasn't able to start it up because the fuel pump wouldn't run. I checked the relay for power, and the two leads do have power. However, when I touched the test light to the ground (which goes to the ECU), the pump immediately began to run. So I temporarily setup to where I have an extra wire jabbed into the ground connector, and then grounded to the body. This way, the pump runs, but it runs all the time (when the the ignition is ON). I don't see this as a problem unless I constantly have the ignition on without the engine running, so I was thinking of setting the relay ground up like this pernamently. Am I asking for trouble by doing this? Or maybe is there some other fix that would work better? I zapped some electronics earlier and was thinking maybe it affected the ECU in some way to cause this? No other electrical problems apparent at this time though.

on my 1990 Loyale, the PCV valve is located on the back side of the intake manifold, pretty much in the center, down low. If I remember, the hose ran off towards the drivers side of the engine, so maybe look for that. The PCV valve actually screws in too (only time I've seen one like that myself)

GL tranny? I don't know, I'll assume that's automatic...if not, never mind... I don't know if other people do this, but I just put the ea82 back in my car and I took the opportunity to switch out the oil seal around the tranny output shaft. Really, the only reason I did it was cuz the guy I bought the car from said there was a slow tranny fluid leak but he didn't know where it was coming from. The seal cost like $10, but I figgered it was good insurance to put it in now while the engine was out instead of waiting to find out I need to do it after the engine is already back in. There is a cylindrical part on the back of the torque converter that must slip into the inner diameter of the seal when you reinstall...it was stubborn for me but it will eventually go and presto!

this is a 2003 OB... the right rear door latch (er, the thing that actually moves when you pull the handle and locks to the pin...aww, you know what I mean ) lately when it gets real cold it will get stuck in place so when you close the door wil close but not latch, door just kinda bangs closed then falls opens again. What will fix this? I was thinking graphite stuff like you use to lube door locks.

so I pulled the big piece o' carpet out of my 1990 loyale to look at some wiring stuff and thought this would be a good time to blast the smithereenies out of it with some cleaner. Anyone figgered out a good way to do this? I was thinking about taking it to the power wash place as I think they have a carpet cleaner setting for the sprayer. I'd really like to get it good while it's out...I swear the car must've been occupied by a family of smoking, junk food-eating rats at one point. Ideas?

if I remember, the four ground wires were black with a thin red stripe on them. They were bolted down right next to the thermostat towards the passenger side. I think the green wire ran into the dash through the same whole that the heater hoses enter through... If I can scrounge up a camera, I'll get some pics for you I had the battery tested to ensure I didn't blow it to smithereenies and it's ok for now. Now is there any way to determine if I blew up the ECM? Also, I checked the fuses under the steering wheel and none were blown...are there any other places I should check for damage?

ok, I was asking earlier how to hook up my wiring on my 1990 loyale and this is what i ended up with...please double check me! I went to attach the battery neg terminal and I got sparks flying everywhere and billowing smoke, ay carumba!!!! Two grounds to the water pump pipe, one off the body just in front of the battery; the other emerging from the area below the coolant res. Going to the positive terminal, I have the following attached.... a lead off the fusible links (attached to the coolant res), a green wire that comes out of the dash and runs around behind the fuel filter, behind the coolant res to the battery, then there are two wires coming out of a loom just behind the battery, actually one of those "wires" is actually a meshy metal looking thing. So all in all there are four wires going to the pos term, and none to the neg. Except for the ones I asked about, I know that this is how the wires were configured when I got the car...whether or not that was correct to begin with I don't know. Ok, now the first time I saw sparks fly, they seemed to originate somewhere around the TBI and showered down on the bell housing area. I looked around but could find no evidence of anything burnt, melted, or otherwise electrically damaged. I pulled the entire loom of wires that run to the TPS, fuel injector, etc and removed all the tape and loom to inspect them. Again I saw nothing, so I taped them back up and put it all back on and tried again. Second attempt...not nearly as many sparks but lots o' smoke. This time it was obvious where it came from. There are 4 wires that continue out the end of the loom and go to a ground bolt just to the passenger side of the thermostat. These were corroded before so I had cut them and spliced new wires. The new wires are what melted (the second time anyway) but there is no evidence of damage to the original wiring. I spliced the four original grounds to two smaller gauge wires just so they would fit the connector I had. So my questions... 1. You guys with similar cars...does it sound like I have the wiring connected right? 4 wires to +, none to -, 2 grounds to water pipe 2. If the wiring is so far correct, is the problem that I just spliced down to fewer and smaller wires at the end there? I thought a ground shouldn't have that much juice unless something else is wrong.

sp I've got this 1990 loyale with an ea82 that I've rebuilt. I may try to start it up this weekend but i thought I'd check in here first. I've never so much as adjusted timing on a car, heh heh, but I've been doing some internet research and here's my plan of attack... 1. Fill the radiator as much as I can and leave the rad cap off; also loosen the screws on the distributor. 2. With the coil wire disconnected, turn the engine over for about 10 seconds to get the oil primed. 3. Set the fire extinguisher by the car , then start the car (of course, ) and if it runs.... 4. Turn the dizzy until the timing is close enough and it idles decent. Then tighten the screws. 5. Give it some gas and try to keep it around 1500-2000rpm so the rings seal properly. (I've been reading that you shouldn't let the car idle at all the first few hundred miles.) 6. Once the thermostat opens, I'll have to add coolant until the radiator is full and put the cap back on. 7. Use a timing light to get the timing right on. 8. Take the car for nice long easy drive. ...I'm sure I'm missing something good here. Anyone got something to add?

we've got a 2003 outback that has just developed (in the past 5 days or so) two cracks that arise from somewhere below the bottom edge of the windshield, about equal distance from the sides. They are both turning towards the middle and will hopefully stay low and meet, but one of them has branched out and followed the wiper defroster almost the entire width of the windshield. The fact that the cracks originate below the edge makes me believe this is an issue with improper assembly and should be covered by the warranty. Of course, the dealer told me that under no circumstances will Subaru warranty a windshield. But hey, the windshield is part of the car and the car is barely a year old so I say it's BS that the company won't consider doing anything for us. Has anyone else had this happen to them? Did Subaru work with you on it or am I just screwed here?

ok, hooked all the wires up (except for that a/c of course, grrrr!) and hooked up the battery.... just got a little spark as usual while connecting neg terminal...no giant fireballs or fuses shooting across the garage so I think I'm set. If I can scare up some fan belts this weekend I'll fire the beast up and see what happens. This is, however, my first attempt at an engine rebuild so I'd suggest you all stay out of the northern Colorado area this weekend for safety's sake. hey and thank you for the help gentlemen

the a/c is the least of my worries on this beast, but I gotta another question... If I'm on the right track here, there are 3 wires that go to the a/c, one is blue with a white connector that goes to a wire that emerges from the front of the compressor just behind the pulley. The other two are red and green and share a round black connector...I can't find where this plugs in. I asked about this on an aussie forum and one guy described a plate that is bolted to the top of the compressor with a box on it that has the corresponding wires and connector that I need. However, my car doesn't have anything like this and I don't see any evidence that it ever did. I thought perhaps there was something different with the north american models? or am I just missing a big piece for my a/c? ps - oops I didn't check my wiring last night...I know you guys are dying to know so I'll get on it

ok cool, got those two wires figgered out... that brings us back to my original question, isn't there another ground that attaches to the engine block further back. I have a lone bolt with a lock washer that I know was used for a ground on the block somewhere on the driver's side. Any chance my car was setup a little differently for whatever reason? I could've sworn there was only one wire attached to the water pipe before. Then again, whether these wires are attached to the water pipe or the block itself shouldn't make difference would it? I mean, a ground is a ground. I think those two wires were the only ones left unaccounted so that might do it. I'll take another look tonight.

yeah it's attached to the coolant res, must be fusible link. There is a loom of wires coming from it that head off to the engine somewhere (working off the top of my head here) , and then one heavier gauge wire by itself...not like a battery cable but maybe 16 gauge. So if I understand you, that one should go the pos terminal. That leaves another option. There was a long thin black wire (smaller gauge, 22 perhaps?) that I think came out of one of the big looms that emerge from the side of the body between the fusible link and the battery. That one I thought for sure went to the neg terminal but maybe that's my mystery ground ....or is that the one that attaches to the water pipe? Describe the other wire that attaches to that water pipe. As for the wires attaching to the rad core support, I don't know what you're referring to so I'm guessing those aren't the wires I'm working with. Hey thanks for looking though...wish it was snowing here

(This is a 1990 loyale) There is a black wire with a yellow stripe that runs from the body (just in front of the battery) down to the metal water pipe (just under the a/c compressor), and I've got that one done... But there should be another ground wire that attaches to the engine block somewhere further back. I know there was a bolt with a lock washer that secured the ground, but I can't recall exactly where the ground came from or where it attached to. There is (what I'm guessing to be) a relay box mounted on the drivers side just behind the battery with a black wire coming from it. I figure that either goes to the battery or it's my missing ground. Anyone know, or got a similar car who can take a look?