archemitis
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Posts posted by archemitis
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posts like these make me think im driving a turd. i always smell oil!
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motorcycles(and i suspect cars do too) have a specified cable lube interval. they even make a little clamp that will direct all of the lube into the cable, instead of trying to get it down there on your own.
dirtbike, and streetbike shops have the clamps and cable lube all in one package.
clutch, speedo,throttle...
why replace it when you can lube it?
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thats just for isulation i welded it and braced it befor foaming. also its to keep noise down. its still not done its all gona get covered and the back wall is gonna have carpit on it. the bed is also getting pached and the open spaces are getting foamed to keep road noise down its my baby dont be haten.
rob
hehee, dont worry, i've had foam in more than a few subarus!
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you shoulda spent some cash on a welder instead of all that ghetto foam!
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there are two different kinds of ea82 distributors, hitachi and nippon denso, if im not mistaken.
if it has a vac advance and its from an ea82, it will fit, you will just need the cap and rotor from the disty, thats about the only differences when you look at them, the cap.
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after seeing that pic daeron posted in the "gen3 heads thread" got me thinking.
im pretty sure im going to put my intake valve in the exhaust port, with a larger seat machined into the head. then for the intakes, i just found out they are so close to harley valves, that i can put some 1.94"valves in the intake side.
that would take me from 1.4" and 1.66" up to 1.66" and 1.94"
just look at all that space between the valves!
or i can just run two intake valves!
i'll figure something out:headbang:
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my apologies, i had in mind older 2.0 liter engines.... I don't dabble that much in cars with less than two decades on 'em, so I forgot to mention the old skool vs new school CC/valve configuration exclusion... In reality there is ALOT more to the heads of the WRX engine than simply two more valves, the entire dynamic flow pattern of the gasses through the intake/cylineder/exhaust tract is RADICALLY different.
One of the difference I had in mind earlier when making the post, in regards to CC design, can be illustrated here.. These are two photos of an L28ET (Nissan Turbo 280ZX) P90 cylinder head. The first combustion chamber is stock (stock-ish, the heads been worked, but not much radical change was made in the combustion chamber. Apologies, I lack a picture of a bone stock P-90 head.) and the second is a redesign along the lines of what I had in mind. The redesign reflects the flow pattern changes I mentioned, and also the redesign is a rough mock up, on a welded "test" head, to see how well the CC design that the builder had in mind would function (,echanically) on an actual shortblock on a stand..
Note the change of spark plug angle on the "worked" head versus the relatively stock one.
ALSO, for the record, this combustion chamber is the one that REALLY seals the deal on my perceived "similarities" between the EA heads and the Nissan heads.. A pic of a stock head would make it clearer. (the "stockish" image above has had some serious work to it to make a minimal APPEARING, yet significant change in the performance; the bone stock CC is much more like the EA82 one.) Although the shape is somewhat different, when you look at them firsthand there is a distinct similarity between them, and the CC of the OLDER L-series heads was even more like in shape to the EA82, but it was an open-deck engine, which means that the CC was not just the shape it assumed, but also a small amount of the entire cylinder head firing deck.. In other words, there is a "bore" on the cylinder head that corresponds to the bore of the cylinder, in addition to the distinctive shape of the recess in the head that the valves reside in. The stock older Datsun heads have a "recess" that looks identical to the EA82 CC, and I HAVE seen more than two engines in pieces.
that stockish head has oversized seats pressed in, and the intake seat is even machined into the exhaust seat! thats super cool.
that gives me a realy good idea, since the valves are both pointing in the same direction, you can go way bigger on the valves than you could on a hemispherical combustion chamber, since the valves dont point at eachother, you can go super big!
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or if you dont want to go the 4 door rout you could just make your own brat :-p
you knew this was comming
oh yeah:headbang:
how bout that model A in the backround?! it for sale?
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this is the first set of ea81 heads i've done, i did my xt6 heads, but not as in depth as im going to go with these, i've also done a bunch of harley heads, which are surprisingly similar!
the flow bench is set up for harley stuff right now, so i have to build a fixture to bolt the head to the machine, i also have to make it the same size and length of the subaru bore and stroke, so flow numbers will come later. i also have to find out exactly how much lift an ea81 cam has at the valve(after rocker arm geometry is factored in)
stock cam +high compression, should make for some mean low end torque!
i've got a set of new valves comming, the old ones were pitted enough to make valve stem protrusion an issue.
any machinists/head flowin guys out there that could chime in with personal experience?
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15 31 46 60 75 46 being the valve seat angle
and 45 and 30 on the valve 45 is where the valve hits the seat.
throw in some valve grinding compound and i'll have a 40thousandths wide seat on the intake and 50 on the exhaust. exhaust gets a wider one to help with heat transfer from valve to the heads.
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this is what im working on today. im pretty sure these are the big valve heads. i stripped them, washed them, bead blasted them, and now im starting to redo the valve seats. today is pretty much exploratory, tomorrow im breaking out the die grinder, and end mill.
the intake seats are horrible, Subaru put a 2 angle grind on them... 3 at best, but i barely see the third one, and theres a horrible overhang that looks like its supposed to be there, right there on the seat.
and the exhaust is a 2 angle, but doesnt have the bad overhang cast into the seat.(exhaust is the small one)... and im not talking about the big aluminum shelf down in there(thats got to go too) im talking about right on the seat itself, it looks like another grinded angle, but its a wierd overhang...
heres my valve seat grinder getting to work.
this is an almost finished 5 angle grind, and i'll be back cutting the valves with 2 cuts as well.
and this little baby will get fired up after they get all put together again.
im not sure what im going to do with the valves yet, i might use the stock ones, as they arent bent or worn too bad, but i might order a set of stainless steel ones from ram.
i just wanted to show everybody how much room for inprovement there is in these tiny little heads, not alot of room for enlarging ports, but proper valve, and seat angles can make a huge difference. stay tuned, more pics to come!
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cats are for suckers!
I work at harley, one year they had a cat in one pipe(05), the next year they had them in both pipes(06), now in o7 they have no cats because they figured out the fuel injection so they dont need them.
cats are like air suction valves, just more bs to remove, cats dont save the environment!
im driving a 1.8 and when a h2 passes me on the highway, something tells me hes doing a little more damage than my little motor with no cats or emissions what so ever.
and like miles says, i do pleanty of illegal stuff with/in cars, cats are the least of my worries.
gut it and never look back!
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ea81 hatch, mine weighs 2200 lbs with a spare tire, half tank of gas and 4 inch lift and 28 inch tires!
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My old Blazer had a crossover pipe that ran hot coolant past the carb, and when it got blocked, I had an icing problem. Airplanes have carb heaters, too.
I wonder if you could make your own version of that by re-routing the return line from the heater core past the carb, maybe with a copper coil or two near the carb to transfer some heat to it. Just a (probably lame) idea.
or you could use the little 7mm hose that connects the manifold to the blocks water jacket. copper tubing coiled should be enough to stop it.
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i've heard of people pulling off 30mpg, but i think its all about the condition of the motor, and the rest of the car too.
id kill for your mileage
if i remember right the air screw is to the right of the idle adjustment, right smack in the middle of the front of the carb.
id like to know the recommended way to set it, doesnt it only effect idle to part throttle, or does it effect the whole throttle range?
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i think the first question you will get is what year make and model is the car, what kind of efi do you have? assuming the throttle body you speak of is for efi
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seems like once theres a lift with more than 2 inch spacers on the tranny, and everything is at such a steep angle, that rear rubber block becomes much more important
Mcbrat told me about the hole with the screw and nyloc nut trick. works with stock mounts when they fall apart.
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I had mine done at a machine shop. It cost me $15/hub, or $60. That was pressing out the old studs & pressing in the new ones as well. I took in just the "hats".
thats crazy cheap, i had one machine shop say 40 a hub.
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i ran into an issue while mixing and matching parts, where i couldnt get a TO bearing to engage the fingers of the pressure plate, the to was too small on the outer diameter. my tranny would only accept the ea81 TO bearing holder, so i used a 1992 nissan pickup TO bearing, it had the same innner diameter as the ea81 TO bearing, but had a larger outside diameter to hit the fingers... theres always alot of different ways to do stuff.
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er... you already got a 5 speed, ug i need to read, heheh:Flame:
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i think 28s are the realistic limit with 4 inches of lift. my fronts rub on turns while compressing the suspension hard. and i've beaten the floorboards way back. and thats with toyota 4runner aluminum rims that stick way out. pugs are way too narrow for a 31 anyway! they WILL rub on your springs, and i mean rub enough to not turn.
i think 27s are the ticket for a 4 inch
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i would recommend putting a 5 speed in it while your at it, sounds like you already will with the ej, but the 4 speed has a shift linkage for the 4x4 that makes it pretty hard to do with any more than 2 inch spacers on the tranny xmember.
the 5 speed has a different kind of shift linkage all together, and is alot easier to work with once you put big spacers on the tranny xmember.
most 3 or 4 inch lifts put shorter blocks (2 inch instead of 3 or 4)between the tranny xmember so you dont have to mess with shifters, but once you go big, its an issue.
just a little thing to think about/prepare for.
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i always look at posts like this when i hear about mythical horsepower numbers...
http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4086&highlight=nitrous
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28367&highlight=guys
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31047&highlight=dyno
WJM had some good dyno sheets a few years ago, but all the attachments are gone, but basicaly its hard to make hp with any of these older engines, even with nitrous and turbos.
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is the disty spinning?
timing belt?
EA Series Head discussion.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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its worth looking at, i mean, the head bolts hold in the rockers on an ea81, so they would probably bolt onto an ea82 head, with or without machining.
cams can always be ground differently
i think dual port ea82 heads on an ea81 would be cool. you could use the ea82 mpfi manifold, machine the center to fit a carb, then the coolant passages between heads are away from the intake ports, drill 4 holes for pushrods,...
subaru didnt invent the wheel with the ea82, its just another generation of the ea81.
having said that, i think dual intake ports on a ea81 head wont be very hard to do, exhaust is alot harder as far as i can see.
i've got a super sweet ea81 going together! i cant wait to see what kind of power i can get out of it