doh, the links are there, but nothing behind them

 

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hahahaah im at work, so im getting payed to check back! wahoo!

downloading stuff is cool...

thanks!

that sounds like a cool setup, how much does a regrind end up costing? what size tires, like 28s or 29s? do a 5 speed with xt6 clutch while your at it, or you might end up doing it in the future for the better gearing of the 5 speed and holding power...

i've got 28s and i use 5th every day! sometimes i maintain my speed, but sometimes i actualy start going backwards:mad:

ya, i was hoping grossgary, or kingbobdole would see it over here. of course none of my chiltons cover that part.

i got no thunk

hopefully somebody with an xt can tell me if i have a vac operated door, or just a manual one

and when i say hot i mean hot... one of those thermo laser thingy told me

 

i also poured water through the core so its full, has good flow and is as hot as my thermostat housing, around 180

the cooling system is in tip top shape, i had it idling for 30 mins and the rad fan comes on when it should, and the thermostat opens at 195degrees...

 

its gotta be a door, and i think its kindof xt specific thing

try a different parts store and dont be shy about gettin something thats not "perfect".

theres one parts store in town that doesnt have any sockets, then another down the street that has 5 different kind.

i appreciate the attempt at help, but i think you need to read my whole first post, not just the first and last sentences.

i elaborated after i edited my second post.

sorry for my long winded post, but its none of the above.

the white plastic adjuster by the throttle pedal (that is controlled by the cable)moves, im thinking its broken where i cant see it. im wondering if xt6 uses vac to move a flap in the heater system, like my other ea82s and ea81s.

 

my core is hot and has good flow through

yes i searched, and it worked so well, i found nothing.

my wifes xt6 has a good heater core, and both hoses leading to it are hot as can be. my hot to cold selector moves, and operates the white plastic piece it is attached to, but no heat blows out of the vents. the blower does work though.

how does the xt6 heater work, my core is hot and only cold air blows, should i take the dash apart and look for a broken vac solenoid, or just wire a trap door shut or something?

i've never had a xt6 dash apart, so i need some advise.

thanks

oh ya, my wife is starting to hate subarus now:confused:

id try the 1.8 carb, or the 1.8 jets in the 1.6 carb?

i was runing a lil lean (because of the same reasons as you) with my stock ea81 carb, and now with my ea82 carb on the ea81 motor, i think im just right, or a little on the rich side.

or zefy has a good option, you know you'll pass if its runing lean then swap a weber after you pass.

i second that, i did it with dark tinted plexi, turned out pretty good, kinda wavy, but pretty good.

thats the one good thing about BRATs being expensive, all other ea81s are cheap and undesirable

oh just wanted to add this so id get flamed and all that

200-250 hp with an ea81 is totaly impossible and it will never be done and nobody will ever have a dyno sheet to prove it... there argue that =]

1.8 litre motor, one hundred horsepower per litre is a pretty lofty goal for a pushrod motor. so that means the limit(in my mind) is 180 hp. that would mean huge ports in heads, T3, reving to 7k, pushing 20lbs of boost, and your powerband would be from 4500 up to 7000.

i had a er27 in my hatch, it had about 150hp and that made the hatch scream! with the lighter ea81 and around 120 hp, i think you'd achieve just about the same results.

 

ea and er timing belts are geh. ejs are supersweet

stainless steel valves are the ticket these days and you can get them from alot of sources, but i dont think you need them unless your building it to run high RPMS, like 7k RPMS, which if its a turbo motor, i guess thats the idea

 

if it were me, id get the high perf stainless valves and heavy springs from *insert favorite company name here*, then take a dremel to them, then have a local head shop fit everything together. while your at it have somebody weld up the egr passage on the one side so that port doesnt suffer any extra turbulence.

grinding on aluminum is fun, just practice on a spare set, and dont go hog wild on them. check out that "splitting headache" shows you where you need to remove metal, and where you just smooth it out.

on na engines heads, and the right cam make all the difference in the world. on a turbo motor, it helps, but so does booost!

they are on carbureted models only, its about a 1.5 inch pipe to send hot air to your air cleaner

i've seen aftermarket ones that had a 2 inch piece of pipe welded to the manifold then the old hose can go back on.

 

i live in minnesota and i never run them. if your choke is working good you probably wont notice it taking any longer to warm up

both problems sound totaly normal.

the white smoke is most likely water in your exhaust system, if you have a catalytic converter, those hold water for a long time.

the TOD should go away after the oil gets everywhere it needs to be. do you have an oil pressure guage? as long as you have oil pressure, let her tick till it gets up to temp.

good to hear! why not just plug the hose leading to the passage, stick a screw in it with a hose clamp, then if the jb weld goes again, you just suck air instead of water.

it should be fine, by the time you build the ea81 up, it will be putting out close to the same hp that the ea82 had. that and the spfi adjusts to things like open exhaust and intake, so it should adjust to the different motor

one problem i just noticed that makes it hard to do a step by step with photos is that you can only post 21 pics at a time...

that might sound like enough, but my axle procedure takes 35 pics...

theres some good pics of the front at the end of this thread

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82201