ahole

Thanks fellas, I had that thought in my mind. I will get a new pump in the near future (as soon as I have a reliable income again). Hopefully, it won't be too long.

Yup, that's my ride. It's just like all of my other vehicles these days; Good for everything, but not great at anything. Well, it's IS pretty great in the snow.

After checking the relay, filter, and power to the pump, I came to the conclusion that the pump wasn't working. Three hits with a framing hammer later, my wagon is back in business. Thanks for the help!

It's normal.

If I remember right I wedged a board between the flywheel and the bell housing through the timing window. Try using a breaker bar or a stronger impact. Reverse threads?

You would do better to post this question in the "newer generation" forum. A lot of guys here deal with cars that are 20-35 years old and they may know little to nothing about an Imp.

I went to start my loyale last night after it sat for about 2-3 weeks- it wouldn't start. So today I went out to figure out what's wrong with it and, before I started taking things apart, I tried to see if it would start. It started right up. I then drove it around back (maybe 1/8 mile) and proceeded to clean the interior. When I tried to start it to move it back to the front, it started and ran for about 3 seconds and died. After some tinkering and some research, I've come to the conclusion that my fuel pump isn't turning on. I've read some posts about the fuel pump relay and would like to check connections and such. Can anyone tell me where the relay is located? Can anyone give me some pointers on what else I should check? For the record: It will run on ether. The filter is pretty new (under 10,000 miles). Timing belts are new and working. I don't hear the fuel pump turn on when the ignition is in the run position. I don't hear the fuel pump turn on when I connect the green plugs.

Thanks guys. Good advice from both of you.

There is knocking in the rear pass side of my wagon. It happens going around corners and it seems to knock every rotation of the wheel. There is also a squeakin sound coming from the same area and at the same intervals as the knock but it will do it while driving straight, although it isn't constant and goes away before 20mph of so. Originally I thought that it was a wheel bearing, but then it occurred to me that it could be my cv joint. Is there a way to test it?

About the top 1/3 of the engine case is just a cover with the starter and air filter/box inside. The engine itself is actually very compact like a subaru.

No I was riding a black BMW motorcycle. '71. It was on the corner of Public and South Boulder.

Dude, I just saw your ride in Lafayette today. I was riding the sweet black old BMW. It looks pretty cool but I noticed your camber is WAY off. You should get that fixed before you wreck your tires. Those wheels look sweet!

Did anyone else get a spam email from Abrio? It said Subaru so I figured it might be the hackers from this site. Just wondering if ony one knows anything about it.

I also have a se for sale: 4 with Yokohama Ice Grippers (snow tires) 185/70/13. 2 very good 2 not so good. rims are nice. I'll send you pics if you want them. $75 + shipping unless you live near Boulder, CO.

Get the ball lug adapters. I got mine from vee dub parts .com or something like that. about 25 cents a piece if I remember correctly.

Well, I thought everything was fixed. I was wrong. I drove 2 hours Friday, and guess what? The other DOJ is bad. I think I'll just chalk this one up to experience and eat the loss. No more GCK for me. Anyone have a bad experience with MWE axles? If I hear any bad reports about them, I'm getting axles used from now on.

I read that. That's why I was surprised to hear about 2 different diameters. Good thing he was wrong. I counted splines before I installed them. I know I have the right ones. Thanks for the input.

Thanks edrach! I was starting to wonder: "These axles are from my single range and I put in a dual range. I wonder if they are different and I never noticed. I've never heard of 2 different diameters." Thanks for clearing it up.

Thanks for your concern, but I put the old axle back in and it fits the same way. There doesn't appear to be any unusual wear on the splines either.

After searching fruitlessly for GCK's contact info, I contacted amazon. Their return policy is 30 days from purchase. I told them about what happened with my axle and they said they'd make a one time acception to this rule and they emailed me potage and everything:clap: . 91Loyale, i wouldn't get your hopes up, but it's worth a try. Although I'll never buy GCK again, amazon came through and I will definately shop there again.

Problem solved. Thanks you guys, you were right! I took out one of the new axles (driver's side) and replaced it with one of the old ones and voila, shake gone. So now a new question: Does anyone have contact info for GCK? I haven't been able to find their number or website. I need to return this turd and get my money back. I bought it through amazon. Do I have to return through amazon? Thanks for any input.

Ea81? If so it has no timing belts, but timing is still adjustable like on all cars.

The play that I speak of is not in the stubs themselves. The play is in the interface (splines) between the stubs and the axles. It's as if the axle splines are slightlly bigger than they should be. I believe that my tranny is just fine. Does anyone know how to check for bad engine mounts? I don't want to just replace them because it looks like it's not a fun job. Same with the tranny mounts, although they would be quite easy to replace.

At risk of doing this , I have a couple more questions for those of you with more experience in these matters. I noticed today that I don't get the shaking when the weather is cool and the engine is cold. When the engine heats up, the shaking happens (I feel it in the pedal, not so much the floor). Could this mean bad engine mounts? How do I tell if they are good? Also, while regreasing the DOJ, I saw that there is play in the splines on the tranny side. Its about equal on th driver and passenger side. Not a whole lot but more than I expected (maybe 1/32-1/16 inch). Is this normal or should this interface be pretty solid? Thanks for all of your help so far, I'd like to get this buttoned up so I can stop thinking about it and work on my motorcycle. BTW, if I need to return these axles, does anyone have contact info for GCK? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

I'm going to try regreasing the DOJ. GD, since you have experience with these axles (GCK), I wonder if you or anyone else know what kind of grease to use. I don't want to attempt removing the old grease since it's still new, but I don't want to mix types because some are not compatible with others. I guess if it's red I'll just assume it's regular bearing/axle grease. Any input that is not just a guess will be appreciated. Thanks people!