davebugs

FYI my local parts store has Wix filters for under 10 bucks. I think Wix is a quality brand and at 1/3 the price that's usually what I use. I'm about to do this on my GF's 2006 Impreza with 50k and I actually may leave the filter on. I'm still trying to determine which fluid to use. I hope to look at her owners manual again tonight. I didn't get a real 'solid' answer from the dealer on which ATF. Dave

o.k. I'm almost done. I replaced a 97 2.5 manual with a 95 2.2 auto. Now the AC belt rubs the alternator, and it looks like the AC tensioner pulley probably rubs the TB cover. I happen to have a 97 2.2 auto crank pulley here and it has the same offset as the 97 2.5. I used from the 2.5 the AC compressor, the AC bracket, the alternator, the PS pump. I'm almost done and all has gone pretty smoothly until now! I guess the real question is whether a 95 Legacy 2.2 auto crank pulley has the same offset as a 97 2.2 Impreza 2.2 auto pulley (and thus the same as a 97 2.5 manual crank pulley). I locktited the pulley on so I'd rather not remove it unless the odds are pretty good that it's the problem. I had looked for a thread about this swap and came up with little - other than it's simple and get a 95 due to the dual port exhaust. I also sent a PM to someone who has done these in the past but I'm trying to get this wrapped up today. Dave

Since he did it several times and the dealer one time - that's why I didn't include the filter in my list of open possibilities. I still have trouble believeing it's a filter/mating problem. Of course I haven't seen the car. Dave

Rev it up when it's on the rack. Don't let it just idle. Two guesses would be that it's pressure related - or it's leaking somewhere else and being blown back to the filter and running down it since it's the low point. I think they make 'trace' stuff for oil that then you look for with a black light. Never used the method but it may be worth it to figure out the source. Dave

I'd bet that it's a 'different' leak like Porc said. Hard to believe that the dealer wouldn't point out all the potential expensive repairs (compared to an oil change) to correct the problem. Could be one of the seals or the PS pump then sometimes it runs down behind timing cover. If this is the case the fluid will be red (and I assume that you'd know that you were adding PS fluid). Are you actually seeing the oil on the bottom of the filter? Or just the bottom of the motor? Just suggestions. If the mounting surface looks good it can't be 4 filters. And these cars are known for other leaking issues. Dave

Yep, one dolly per motor or tranny. I gotta tell ya it's awesome. When they get in the way (and they always do) it's great to just push and pull them around without getting out the cherry picker, or setting down what's already on the cherry picker, etc. For instance last night. I'm doing my first 2.2 inplace of a 2.5 swap. The 2.5 in on the engine stand, the 2.2 is dangling from the cherry picker. The 'new' 2.2 they had screwed up the hockey puck thing above the EGR. Broke off a few of the lines. I have a junk 97 2.2 motor under a workbench. Of course the piece that I needed was in the back. I just pulled it right out, removed the part, and pushed it back. Certainly was better than doing some sort of mexican hat dance with the cherry picker. I usually pay 15 bucks at Harbor Friegh and Tractor Supply. Sometimes up to 20 bucks. From time to time I can get round ones that stack well when empty for 20 bucks. They really make life easy. If I get a chance I'll take a few pics. I also use them for stacks of tires that always seem to be in my way (the round ones work best for this). I had just bought some tiny ones at HF around New Years for my old VW engines - they are like 12" x 12". I just bought a used heavy shelving unit on wheels that I've just put most of the tires on. Some folks think the furniture dollies are a luxury. Since things always seem to be in my way or unaccessable I see them as a necessity. Keeps things simple - as it did last night when I needed this part. A great time saver. I'll be in the garage today working on this swap - I'll try and remember to take the camera and take a few pics. Dave

The receiver carrier may be better than a trailer. Those little trailers really bounce around a lot - just like a tow dolly. That can't be very good for whatever is strapped to them. If in the vehicle isn't the choice I'd say the receiver carrier would be the ticket. Even without the price difference between that and a trailer. Lets put it this way. I'll borrow a truck if I need to rather than use my trailer to haul a motor. I don't always like to haul them inside my Astro van. BTW I set motors - especially those I'm hauling in the Astro - in a cement mixing tub that I get at a hardware store or lumber yard. In the case of a Suby motor it also helps keep it upright better than a tire for me it seems. For like 10 bucks it's re-usable and sure beats trying to get oil, grease, and coolant out of the van. I actually put motors on furniture dollies in the garage and often have a cement tub on top of them. BTW I usually get the furniture dollies at Harbor Freight or tractor supply. Sure beats lifting motors (manually or mechanically) all the time when they need moved in the garage. Dave

I was gonna try these steps - depending on how bad mine was. I couldn't believe that there was no aftermarket part available since they are a common and expensive replacement part. Perhaps due to liability issues? Anyway I have a radiator shop that does 'redcoat' of gas tanks. I have them do my antiques when I have the gas tanks out. If it's pin holes this may work - atleast for a while. The other possibility was an independent muffler shop that can bend pipe. Perhaps have them bend, then weld the piece in - off the vehicle of course. For this it would almost take a home made jig or another good filler tube. I was shocked to find no good solutions here at USMB as well. Dave

Remove the plastic at the bottom and see what you have left of the filler tube. You may want to run the RR up on ramps and climb under. That or remove the wheel. I kinda like things up as high as possible so that I can see under them. The filler tube will be shot at the lowest point. I lucked out and found one at a junkyard recently off a 96 OBW and it still cost me 50 bucks. It is in great shape though. I sold the car before I had installed this filler tube. A threw it on the shelf for the next Suby that has this common, costly problem. Dave

GG, I had seen your 'needle grease' procedure some time ago and aquired the needle fitting. I have a few roller's laying around but haven't actually tried it yet. The last motor I did was a 2.5 and I didn't want it to be a guinea pig after the work and money that went into it. I was thinking of one of these kits mostly because of the rollers. I can't buy the rollers for near what they want for the whole kit. My quotes are running about twice as much just for the rollers as this whole kit is. Waper pumps don't seem to be any great deal. I will be installing a non-interference 2.2 - from a 95 Auto. Guess I'll give it a whirl. Thanks folks for the feedback. Dave

Many folks use these in EJ's? I'll be installing a used motor (my first 2.2 for a 2.5 swap) this week. I was thinking of one of those kits mostly due to the rollers. I can get pretty good prices on TB's and WP's locally. If I order it tonight or in the morning it should be here about the time I need it - I hope. For a 95 2.2 - the 83.95 kit - TB and rollers. IIR I pay 30-35 for a Dayco TB for a 2.2 and about 50 for a new WP. But rollers that I can source locally are expensive. At the dealer or Advance. My local guys don't have a listing. How long would you trust this TB/roller setup? Anyone have the nerve to install one of these kits on their own 2.5? Thanks, Dave

Uneventful update. I changed the oil in this car a few weeks ago. Got that 20w50 out and put some 5w30 in. It's now gone over 3k mile (more like 4k) and no more issues. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for all the suggestions when we were in the debugging process. I still don't know what the cause was. I did put the swapped out coil pack on another car which I sold shortly thereafter. If that was the problem I'll never know. Dave

I have a 'sophisticated VW/Audi' setup for my laptop. This also includes ODBII. I have lots of other stuff on my laptop so it doesn't go out in the cold. When chasing a cylinder 3&4 misfire this spring I broke down and got a cheapie for 50 bucks on Ebay (with shipping). The same yellow one at the auto parts & Sears for 75-80. You have to look up the code in the book, or on your computer(they give you a CD). It is small enough to fit into the pocket of a coat which I found nice. The slightly better(and more expensive) readers won't fit in my coat pocket. Typically I'm looking for more of a possible explanation of a cause and troubleshooting that the readers seem to provide so I end up on the web anyways either here, Google, Endwrench, wherever. I needed the expensive VW one for my TDI. I like my cheapie. Dave

I wish the whole auto industry would standardize the style - and thus release method of ALL wiring clips. Would make too much sense I know. But its almost always the most frustrating part of every project that I do. If they were all the same even challanged folks like myself would catch on eventually. BTW I swapped coil packs (I'm having this same issue on a 97 OB) and did 150 mile trip yesterday in the rain with no codes. Way too soon to say that it solved the problem. I did have trouble with the clip on the coil packs though. Dave

My favorite method is to pour the seafoam in the plastic top of an aerosol can so that I can see how much I have, how much it's sucking up, etc. It's pretty darn hard to look into the can when you've got a hose in it. Dave

Doesn't have to have 'secret' ingredients. It has worked well for me especially in Suby's. Particularly O2 sensors. BTW IPA is also drygas. Dave

Here's a similar writeup that I found here about doing a 97 OB. This along with some other articles are what I used. http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html I didn't need to remove the starter when I pulled my 2.5 (but it's a manual transmission if that makes a difference). Just unbolted PS pump, AC Compressor and bungie out of the way. I also Bundie'd the hood to the roof rack. There is also a link here for the FSM somewhere. If you can't find it (or it's no longer here) PM me and give me an email that will hold 10MB or so. I also followed an excellent Endwrench writeup but I think that was for the HG part of the job. Other than exhaust manifold bolts (rusty) and that lower drivers nut(access) it's not bad at all. Dave

I may be chasing the exact same problem on the exact same car. The car doesn't get used much. New NGK plugs, new Subaru wires, coil pack was next. Thanks for the heads up. Dave

I'm a big anti-sieze guy. Comes from all those old VW Beetles that I have. The whole dis-similar metals thing. No anti-seize is just like over tightening oil filters and oil plugs to me. No reason for it. Consensus is change them at 50k or so and anit-seize than another 50-75k? Dave

I just got NGK laser platinum plugs FR5AP-11 for my GF's 2006 Impreza 2.5 today. That's what the dealer's computer said her car needed. They were under 8 bucks each. I'll have to figure out just what 'laser' has to do with it. On the dealer's computer it says they are to be changed every 30k. Seems awful frequent for a platinum plug. Her car is pushing 50k. Not looking like a real fun job. I may wait on warmer weather. I've used some NGK Iridium plugs on other cars. Remember when plugs were cheap and often easy to replace? Dave

Dogbone. Don't quite understand why the engine comes out o.k. without it unbolted but won't go back in until you unbolt it and adjust the jack under the tranny. I was stubborn at first. But that was the cure for me. Dave

To clean the reservoir. Rocks/gravel and I have a favorite cleaner called Blaster that I buy by the gallon at the parts store. I don't think it's a national brand. Typically Cascade gel works well. Learned it from a rediator guy. Works better than a lot of commercial radiator flush products. Some cars you add it to the water and drive for a day or so before a flush and fill. My bottle of Cascade gel is used only for cars (actually it works pretty well in ceramic shower stalls too). So make sure you shake it up first. The gravel works just like when you use it to remove rust in a gas tank. My overflow tank had a factory pin hole. When you're shaking put your finger over it or you'll get wet. Dave

If the PS pump is leaking I'd make sure I fixed it. Otherwise that PS fluid seems to find it's way into the timing belt cover. I don't know how/if it would get on the belt but I wouldn't want to take the chance. I just did a 2.5 where the PS pump leaked (the seal in the back) and had the effect of some PS fluid setting on top of the engine and some finding it's way down the front of the motor. Other than that I don't know if the gasket would be such a big deal. Dave

A little late but - Make SURE that you have done the timing belt on that 1.8 turbo!! The price of that head and/or a used motor will make the Subaru 2.5 look cheap. I've never swapped a 1.8 Turbo but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room in there. I just passed on buying a nice 99 Passat GLS on tuesday. VWoA list on rebuilt head - 2,150. Another 1,110 list in gaskets, tensioners, etc. A used motor (minus turbo) starts at about 2k. If the belt brakes you need atleast a head. Usually they are pretty much unfixable. Cheapest (and luckiest) head fix that I know of was 750 just to rework the head with some new valves, etc. They are apparently quite tricky to repair - much more so than the 'normal' head. I've always stayed away from them. VW's and wheel bearings. Don't know why but often a problem. Window regulators are expensive - make sure they are lubed well. There were some recall's on some MAF's during that era - check with the dealer. The VW folks seem to hate K&N's and blame them for the MAF issues. In reality it appears that the MAF is wimpy on it's own. I had mine replaced at the dealer (out of pocket) since the car will still under a 10yr/100k powertrain warranty. Luckily cause it's about the only thing I've ever had the dealer do. I found out about the MAF recall on the web and had already filed my claim and had my check before I received the 'official' notice of the recall. After that I ran a K&N for about 120k until I ruined it cleaning it and just went back to OEM style air filter. If it's an auto you already the realize that the 'geniuses' didn't engineer a dipstick. It's kinda like the old beetles - basically you have to make sure it's up to temp and take a plug out and see if any runs out - genius! Dave

There are 2 different diameter cam cap bolts. The ones up front closest the pulley are much smaller in diameter - and take much less torque. You'll need to know which one you need. FYI on each cam it takes 2 of the skinny bolts and 4 of the larger bolts that are under the valve cover. Dave