88whitecat

IIRC the sale of r12 is currently prohibited in all 50 states. They do sell generic kits at most autoparts stores that will change an r12 system over to r134a. Cheap kits are just new hi/lo service ports. Some kits have to be sodded on while others are more like an adapter that locks onto the old style on the bottom and offers the new style on top. Expensive kits like this are vehicle specific but also have all new o-rings which is a good idea but not nessecary. The other parts cond., evap., etc., all do the job adequately enough for the r134a. The biggest difference other than the refrigerant chemical itself they changed from a petroleum based oil in the r12 to a synthetic called PAG. Also if you are changing it over you need to have the r12 recovered as its illegal to vent it into the atmosphere. Then you pull a vacuum and inject the new r134a with an extra healthy dose of the PAG oil. A uv dye is also a good thing to add so you can detect leaks if it seems to slowly lose its cooling capacity. I wish you good luck with it. 88whitecat

From what I've found there were two types of alarms/keyless entry units in these cars. Either oem subaru, or what seemed to be a factory option DEI unit. Remotes can be had on ebay pretty cheap. If you have a little red light left of the steering wheel its most likely a DEI. They used Python units in the subies I have seen, but remotes for other DEI models such as Viper, rattler, sidewider, etc. Here is one example of a DEI remote. This is an example of the OEM remote. I hope this helps.

Don't know if this helps but, when I dissassembled the rear for a legacy I got someone to help me. I used a 3lb sledge on a pickle-fork under the head while he used an impact wrench to make it spin. The first 1.5" were a bear but after that it slid the rest of the way out with a minimal of problems.

I agree with you but only to a point. Pre-cat cars also burned leaded gasoline. I have personally seen older motors rebuilt and tuned for unleaded gas and pass with better emissions than some newer cars. The way it was explained to me was the longer stroke of older engines allowed a more complete combustion of the fuel than the newer short-stroke, high-rpm motors.I have nothing to back that up at the moment; but maybe somene else will have some info?

I may be able to help you out. I have a 98 legacy 2.2 that hopefully I'm junking soon. A/C has never worked because of a leaky condesor-to-reciever drier (liquid) line. Can be had from subarupartsforyou.com for like 50$ The rest just sits there. There is the question of whether or not the orings and compressor seals have dried out or not, but its all yours if you're willing to pay shipping. Let me know. 88whitecat

Looks like 91Loyale has dibs but im interested if it doesnt happen.

when I got the car it was great, 28-30mpg highway 22-25city. Right now Im lucky to get 20mpg highway mostly due to aerodynamic drag from a damaged front end. I try everything else easy I can. I run the car empty and even started using acetone in the gas after reading a thread about that here. I need to fix it or relace it but I dont have the spare cash at the moment to do either. This is paid off so at this point it doesnt owe me anything and costs are limited to gas and maintnence.

Mostly because I'm lazy. I drive a 100mi+ daily round trip commute to work, and would rather have that one less thing to think about. I wanted one when I got my subaru about 2 years ago but the dealer only had a mt sport wagon and an at legacy L within my price range and I decided interior room was more important. Just thought it might be interesting to try with a spare tranny from a j/y so I could be driving right up to the point where I swap and its over quick to get it back on the road.

...While giving up the fight against sleeplessness:banghead: Anyway has anyone ever tried changing their diff gears? The front ones in particular? I was researching and found that 2.2mt legacys got 3.90 front and rear gears. being that I do alot of highway driving shorter gears would give better gas milage eh? and with gas climbing steadily (almost $3.25 here in ct) I look for every way to save. what do you all think, worth the project?

yes it is mellow65. I grabbed the belt but havent gotten idlers or anything. not sure if they're needed but everyone seems to say replace it all at once while you're in there. I definitely need to replace the oil seals but ive talked about my oil loss problems before. I know from what Ive read I should have no problems doing the work, but some days I regret trading in my 88 mercury cougar.it was so much easir to work on.

I was looking at another thread and followed a link to endwrench.com where they had an article about when to change your timing belt.It stated that 2.2l engines were to be done every 60k and 2.5l engines done every 105k with the exception of california 2.2l which were to be done every 105k. Now why the difference for cali cars? And what emissions related differences are there? I ask because on the bottom of my hood I have a sticker that says the car meets California emissions. A friend i was talking to said its not likely that i have a cali car because it would fail our local (Mass State) emissions test. My first thought was if they require lower emissions in Ca, I should pass ours with flying colors right? Now the real reason for the post. I have about 135k on the car right now. I purchased it with just under 89k.If the normal 2.2 service schedual was followed I should be 15k overdue, however, IF the car was to follow the ca seviceing schedual i'm about 30k overdue! and i should get to it in a hurry. I should mention I have no maintanence records prior to my buying it other than a sticker on the strut tower saying a 90k service was done at 88k and some change. What do people think?

My first thoughts run towards a leak. If there is not the proper volume of R134a the compressor will cycle on and off because as it pumps the lo side pressure drops, and this in turn activates the lo pressure switch. Putting a set of manifold gauges on it would tell you alot. If you dont have access to a set inject some UV dye (available at your local parts store) and check for leaks that way.

I second the motion, I often add 3-4q of oil to my car at a shot. Once dumped a fresh gallon in just to bring it in range with no problems before or after (other than known issues like why I keep feeding it oil)

Well here goes nothing. I dont know much about how to post pictores or links bout I hope this works. I directs you to my aol photo album. If not maybe someone can school me a bit. Edit: deleted link. It made my own ie6 lockup and force an end task. will try later.

Give me a couple of mins. I alwasys say i gotta take a picture so everyone can laugh but it never happens its nice out thoiugh so I should be capable of some good shots.

Frag, I'm only killing the AWD if running it in FWD mode is going to kill it. I have had to enable the AWD for bad weather a couple times and I could feel that something wasn't right. It had a tendency to what I believe was drive the wheels at different speeds causeing a drifting/lack of precise control effect. Johnc, where would that be located? Do you think it might be my leak? I'm definitely not a mechanic but my first thought was pump in pan + o-ring at pump = o-ring in pan. or are you mentioning it as precautionary maintanance when I start tearing into it? And Bratman do you know where to get a decent sevice manual? preferably one that includes the EVTM? All iever seem to find are Haynes and personally I dslike them.

I've been drving it like this for over a year now. I put a new (used) tire on every 2-4 months depending on how good the tire was to begin with. I'm riding on the sidewall and tires just werent meant to do that. And good to know abt those connectors, I'll leave them be. I was removing the alarm system to put it in my other car when I found them and said "self, those look like they should be plugged in." guess not. as for the seals do the cam and crank need to be removed to replace them? ie leave engine in but take out the radiator for the room?

But not getting any smarter doing it! I have a (2.2l) 98 Legacy wagon with more than a couple of problems. Yes I did search! For a couple days I did. Anyway, I wrecked pretty good on the highway and some things havent been right since. To start with I am trying to obtain some suspension info. I need to replace my rear drivers side lower control arm, spindle, lateral links, the whole nine yards. Has anyone else had to? I got underneath and it looks pretty straight forward. Just a couple of bolts and it drops right down right? Thing number 2 is an oil leak at a rate of 1q+ a week! Its definitely coming from behind the timing cover and flows down and across the exhaust where it burns off.I figure its the cam and/or crank seals. I saw many people pull their motors to do head gaskets but is taking it out and working it over my best bet in this case? #3 is probably the stupidist. While working under the dash I found a green electrcal connector undone. I hooked it up and when I next started the car it idled rough and my CEL blinked at me(nonstop till I turned it off). Can someone tell me why? Is something wrong and was disconnected to hide it? I guess thats it for now. There are plenty more q's but only so many can be addressed at once. Thanks in advance for any help.