crockettbrat

Hey there: I used the reed switch in the cluster of my 84 brat and its worked great. I also strung a wire from the legacy ecu up to the pin on the back of my gauges for the ECS light. There was no bulb in there and the pin on the plug for it was empty, but i was able to rig it to come on. I never did hook up a neutral switch and I dont get a CEl code for it. I dont remember the inhibitor switch so maybe some one else can chime in on that. I also want to ground out I believe it is pin 20 on plug B84 ( according to a post by numbchux yesterday). I would start with the CEL because you probably have a code there that will lead you in the right direction. Good luck with it. Daniel

Hey Sko: Thanks man. You were right it wasn't that bad. Thanks for all the help along the way. D

Thanks Brian! You should go for it. Its really fun to drive a brat with power. You'll be able to pull it off. I'll be happy to help once you do decide to go for it. Daniel

My brat now has to pass smog as a 1993 subaru legacy. They noticed that my car was selectable 2wd or 4wd so I had to go on the dyno, but it still passed even with my 27" tires. An AWD vehicle only gets the sniffer up the tail pipe. They put a sticker in the engine compartment that lists all the various smog components that are supposed to be on the 93 subaru, so future smog techs will know what to look for. I've been worrying about this inspection since the day I decided to do the ej swap and I've been putting it off forever. I had to get a smog test by May 31 and figured I wouldn't pass on my first try so I made an appointment today and went in assuming they'd find something, but the ref was happy with my swap, I passed emissions, and they gave me my sticker. Yahoo! D

So I just got back from taking my ej brat to the Cal Smog Ref to inspect my engine swap and certify that I did it legally and that it passed emissions. When I left, my kid (6 year old evil genius) was reading the owners manual for our 1998 impreza. He's about half way through and probably will finish it by bed time. So if you have any questions about your 1998 impreza outback sport I'm sure my kid will have the info you need. Yup, thats my boy! Daniel ps- the brat passed the smog ref inspection too!

Hey all: I passed my inspection today at the smog ref!:banana: I have been super nervous about this because I have a general fear of bureaucracy and anything like it, but it went smoothly and the guy passed me on my first try! I'm so psyched and now the Brat is officially legal! Thanks to the usmb for all the help with this swap. I know I finished it a while ago, but this was the final step. Daniel

Pulling the codes isnt difficult. Someone will chime in I'm sure, but iirc you connect the two black connectors with one wire each then turn on the ignition and the code will blink on the CEL. Long blinks first for the first number in the code and short blinks for the second number. It will give codes in sequencial order from lowest to highest and you should fix them in that order also because the lower codes being a problem can cause the higher codes. Pull the codes and you'll have your answer. The service manual for this can be found online in pdf and will have all the info you'll need to fix your problem. Good luck. Daniel

Is it something that you feel as well as hear? My first thought was the heat shield on your y pipe, or a rattley cat. If you feel it too then maybe a bushing, or other rubber isolator like an engine mount or tranny mount has broken and is causing some problem. Hope this helps. Daniel

Are you getting a CEL code? This sounds like something that would set off the CEL. I would check the Throttle position sensor, and clean the Idle air control valve, and check the evap can purge valve. I had a similar problem with my ej brat, and my tps was not set right and my evap can purge valve needed to be replaced. Of course I had a CEL code to help me diagnose the problem. Daniel

+1 for twisting the wires on the spark plug before pulling. I used to just yank until the wire pulled out of the cap, then remove the cap and then pull the metal connector off the spark plug. Now I twist the cap on the spark plug first and then pull and they come right off. Daniel

Reading the tcu code on the outback sport is the same as the legacy except instead of grounding pin 5 on the "diagnosis plug" you ground out pin 4. If you look under the dash by the steering column you'll find a black plug with 6 pins. Its close to the two green plugs, and if you follow the wires back you will find two black wires looped around and the ends taped up. Untape those wires. Run your car to normal temp by driving it around. Stop the car and put it in nuetral and turn it off. Put one of the black wires you just untaped in to pin 4 of the 6 pin plug. The plug has 2 pins on top and 4 pins on the bottom, so pin 4 is second from the left on the bottom when you're looking at the plug. Then turn the ignition on but dont start the car. Put it in drive then 3, then 2, then 1 and then depress the gas pedal part way. The AT light will then blink your code with the standard blink sequence. I just went through this with my 98 obs and it was hard to find accurate info on how to pull the code, but eventually i found it. Search p0720 and you'll find my saga. If you get your code just post it up here or pm me and I can look it up in my 95 legacy fsm. Good luck and I hope this helps. Daniel

If the evap solenoid isnt plugged in you should get a cell code. The solenoid also has vacuum lines attached to it. d

Hello: Not sure what engine, vehicle you have but it kind of looks like the plug for the evap canister solenoid. My 1993 legacy ej22 has it bolted up under the intake manifold on the passenger side and it plugs into the engine wiring harness. You kind of have to look deep to see it. Hope this helps. Daniel

Have you checked the smj? big mega plug under the dash (big grey plug with a bolt to keep it together), my ej brat had that smj loose which caused some intermitent problems. Good luck. Daniel

Great! I could paypal you for the shipping and effort! I do know how to do that! Daniel Rogers 617 Vallejo St Crockett, Ca 94525 Thanks D

Hey Nipper I'd love to get my hands on this file, but I'm incompetent with computers. I have no idea what YIM or AIM are. Thanks. D

FIXED!!! One of the wires from the vss1 was cut about 5" back from the plug. Quick job with the soldering iron and it tested out just fine with the ohm meter. Plugged everything back in and turned on the car. CEL light went off and no blinky from the at light. No more late first shift and drives perfectly. Thanks for all the help folks! Daniel ps- after all this I realize that when trying to get the engine and tranny to mate up during my engine replacement I probably pinched the wiring from the tranny when I jacked up the front of the trans.

The vss2 has its own plug and it tested out fine. The vss1 goes through one of the two big plugs on the tranny. I'm using a 95 legacy fsm, so it could be wrong, but according to the test there my vss1 is not showing the proper resistance. Has anyone here ever replaced the vss1 at the back of the tranny? It looks like two bolts and it will pop right off, but does it plug into the tranny harness before the big multi plug, or do I need to cut wires and solder in another vss1 when I replace it? I got under there, but cant seem to see any plugs between the vss1 and where its wiring enters the rest of the tranny wiring loom. Any help appreciated. Thanks. d

Alrighty then! I got the tranny codes to work, although on my 98 obs its pin 4 on the diagnosis switch that gets grounded, not 5. I got a code for vss1, which seems plausible considering my cel code is for vss2 circuit malfunction, and I'm sure they meet up somewhere in the wiring. Now I just need to figure out how to replace vss1 and hopefully problem solved. Thanks for the help folks. usmb rocks! daniel

Thanks very much for clearing this up! Daniel

I'm not sure. My regular email is through att. The address is 1962siia88@sbcglobal.net. I have a work email that is dan@lanesplitterpizza.com. I would think the sbcglobal would have size restrictions. Not sure about the work address. D

yes! where can one find this? I found one too but was in some format my limited computing skills would allow me to access. Any help appreciated. D ps- I put some dielectric silicone on the tranny plugs and on the vss2 plug and the check engine light went off. I then cleared the code and it has stayed off and the shifting problem has ended. I'm still getting the 16 blinks at the at light on start up. I've read the process for checking the codes, but dont seem to understand the part where it says turn ignition to off, move shift selector to D and connect diagnosis switch to on. What diagnosis switch are they refering to? Also my tranny wont shift out of park without the ignition on. At least the car is shifting correctly again. D

So the problem continues! I tested my vss2 and it checked out good. Got another one from the pnp ($8!) and tested it, also good. Put the new one in the impreza this morning and still have the same problems( late shift from 1st to 2nd on only the first time the tranny shifts after starting the car, then all normal, and check engine light comes on again with p0720 vss2 circuit malfunction). Next step is to check the wiring between the plug for the vss2 and the tcu. Does anyone have the pin out for the impreza tcu? This would be very helpful at this point. Maybe time to buy the fsm. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Daniel

When I replaced the 2.2 in my impreza I had the same thing happen. Big air bubble and the engine got hot quick. Then I read the owners manual and it says regarding filling the coolant system: "Slowly pour the coolant and fill to the radiator filler neck and to the reserve tank's "FULL level mark. Do not pour the coolant too quickly, as this may lead to insufficient air bleeding and trapped air in the system." "Start and run the engine for more than five minutes at 2000 to 3000 rpm." Next I followed the above directions and the engine got hot quick again, but this time it went about 2/3 of the way to red on the temp guage and then the thermostat opened and it cooled down to normal ( about 1/3) I topped off the reserve tank the next morning and the rest is history. Try the 2000 - 3000 rpms for 5 minutes and I bet it will work. Good luck Daniel ps- I was using oem thermostat!

No I havent checked them. That is the reason for this post. I dont know how to check them with a meter. I'm hoping for info on the procedure to check the vss's. Yes this is an automatic transmission. Thanks for any info. D