crockettbrat

Are you getting any codes? Have you checked the tps? My ej brat had a surging problem that threw a code for the idle switch which is part of the tps. You might want to check the voltage at the ecu for the tps and the idle switch. Hope this helps. Daniel

Did you do a full compression test on the car? How are the other cylinders?

Hey there: That really sucks! Sorry that happened. Was the person who hit you insured? I hope so! I'd bet you could straighten out the bumper from how it looks in the pic, but the other body parts look like they need someone with skill. Good luck on this and if I see any brats in the junk yards here I'll post it up. Good luck. Daniel

Alright more eastbay members. Welcome to the usmb! I drive a lifted brat with winch around Berkeley all the time. I dont know much about the piston slap issue, but a search will undoubtedly give you much info. Good luck. Daniel

I know, I just dont know why endwrech would say that the 2.2 are non interference. I must be reading it wrong. More coffee please. Daniel

Hey all: I just read this http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf and it seems to say "subaru 1.8l and 2.2l engines are freewheeling" which I would take to mean non interference since they go on to say "no bent valves if the belt breaks." I believe the folks here because you've helped me keep my soobs running for so long, but now I'm confused. This article is from spring 2005 so its written after my engine was built. Am I reading the wrong thing, or just comprehending it incorrectly, or are they just omitting info on the 2.2l interference engines. Any info appreciated. Thanks. Daniel

Welcome back! Nice pics too. Daniel

Alright you guys convinced me. I will go get a california belt from subaru. However the rest of my belt kit looks exactly the same as the other parts on my new engine. Also, my new engine appears to have had the belt changed before and it looks to be in good condition, but since I'm already there I'll just go ahead and replace all the idlers any way and put in the new water pump too. Thanks all. Daniel

Great news. I love it when the fix is free! Congrats. Daniel

How old are the plugs and wires? Dist cap? Rotor? Other standard tune up stuff? Hope this helps. Daniel

I dont know about the sfpi swap, but in the ej swap you end up with a fuel pump relay and one problem people have is not enough ground wires on the ej harness, and the fuel pump wont run. Maybe a bad ground relating to the fuel pump. Good luck. Daniel

Bad fuel pump?

I've always loosened the nut with the wheel on the car and the car on the ground and then removed the wheel. Used a breaker bar. This was on my ea81 vehicle. Daniel

I didn't use a resistor, but my radiator had an extra bung that was plugged and was the exact size for the ea sender. It reads a little cool until the thermostat opens. Good luck with your swap. Probably good that you know the local smog ref. I still haven't taken mine in to get checked by the ref. My next smog test is in May, so I'm going to get on it soon. Daniel

I would try soaking it with deep creep or something like that. I wonder if the axle was not on the trans spindle correctly when the pin was put in. If they are off by 180 degrees the holes are not exactly lined up and the pin is hard to get in. I wonder if someone bashed them in. I've never had any trouble getting them out, but I've had the axles off by 180 degrees and had the pins be tough to get in. Was the other pin still round when it came out? Daniel

The "new" engine has 88k miles. The impreza has 154k miles. I'm going to replace the pulleys too, unless they look new, or the pulleys on my dead engine look new. Hopefully the 93 kit I already have will be the same. I'll post up what the deal is tomorrow or the next day. Daniel

Hey all: Going to do the timing belt on the engine for my 1998 impreza outback sport. I went to ebay and looked for a timing belt kit. There were many kits with different year compatiblities, but it seems that there is some change that occured in early 1997. I went to rock auto and the "cloyse" brand kit for my year shows the same part number for every year back to 1993. I'm confused. Maybe the difference is something other than what comes in that kit. Anyone know about this? The reason I didn't just buy an ebay kit that was listed for my year is because the engine I got is from a 1997 and I have a kit for a 1993 ej22 sitting on my shelf. Also the 3/97 -1998 kit is twice as much as the earlier kit. I intend to take the timing belt cover off the engine tomorrow and compare the parts. I'll report back what I find. Thanks. Daniel

"New" engine arrived today! My neighbor with the engine hoist has been awol the last few days, so I haven't pulled the old engine out yet, but I will be moving forward now! The new engine isn't as clean as the old one, but hopefully the little rig will be up and running soon. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get going on my timing belt.

Hey there: I believe the way you do this type of test is to get a amp meter and pull the ground wire off your battery. You connect the amp meter between the neg post on your battery and the ground wire. If you have a draw it will register on your amp meter. You then proceed to pull fuses one at a time and check the amp meter with each one. When you pull the fuse for the circuit with the drain your amp meter will show no current passing thru it and you have narrowed down your search. Get a schematic and go to town. I would suggest starting on a circuit that has something thats broken. HOpe this helps and good luck. Daniel

I find that grabbing them and rotating them back and forth on the plug a few times helps. I really hate it when I pull them off and the metal female end is still on the plug! Daniel

I agree with gary about the hum on the engine. It will be the idle air control valve. Its right next to the tps and mine hums for a minute too. Its a little round thing attached to the intake manifold with a grey plastic top with a 1 2 3 on top right by the plug. Good luck. Daniel

Not sure if this is the answer or not, but my ea81 also wouldn't pass smog at first. I swapped in an ej and ripped into my ea with my kid. When we took it apart I noticed that the reeds on my air suction valve were broken on both sides. Supposedly according to haynes manual only 82-83 years had this, but my 84 brat did too. Of course I doubt it was the original engine. If you have a haynes manual check out page 64 for a picture of the air suction system and page 140 for the way to test the system. The manual only shows this thing on one side, but my engine had it on both sides. I remember thinking when I took the engine apart that the broken reeds might have been my problem passing smog. Good luck. Daniel

Thanks bratman. I'll take a look and see if I can houdini in there. Daniel

Thanks again! You are the info man extraordinair! I will find those endwrench links. Much appreciated. I found the thread on seating the tc. Seems straight forward. Just out of curiousity why not unbolt the tc from the flex plate before pulling the engine, and leave it seated? Is it because of the PITA factor of getting to the bolts, and its just easier to pull it with the motor and then reseat? Thanks again man! Daniel

Hey Gary: Yeah I intend to do the timing belt. I'll inspect the pulleys too. I have a timing belt kit with pulleys and water pump for my 93 ej motor that I didn't use because the parts on it looked perfect. I guess I'll be buying the service manual for this thing too. I've never done a subaru timing belt so I guess I'll be doing some searching. If I recall from other posts there is something about compressing the tensioner on the later ej22's that indicates I'll screw it up. I'll do a search on seating the torque converter too. Thanks for your help so far. Much appreciated. Daniel